$40

>$40

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What you're generally paying for is liability.
If that thing fails in an unsafe way the company is in top shit, so they don't build them down to a price like chinese sellers do.
You put a Chink shit breaker in your house and it fails in an unsafe way, good luck getting insurance to pay out.

>compromising electrical safety

/thread

No you're paying for ACFI and GCFI built into the breaker
regular UL listed breakers are only $5 and they work just fine
literally only exist to protect retards who are too dumb to know what electricity does
120 volts is safe as hell

>120 volts
lmao voltlets kys

>european
have fun with your adapter

NEC required arc fault/GFCI protection for many areas. GFCIs for, bathrooms, garages, laundry rooms, etc. AFCI for bedrooms, living rooms, lighting. Combination for kitchens and certain other areas. Coincidentally, if you'll look at who writes these codes, you'll see representatives from many of the big name companies such as Eaton, GE, Siemens, and Square D. It's a matter of safety to a degree, yes, but these companies do make more selling a $45 breaker than a $5 one.

requires*

And that being said, there is nothing stopping you from getting your certificate of occupancy and then swapping every breaker with a normal one.

tfw 240v in the garage for muh powertools

What would a euroqueer know about circular saws and arch welders?

>120 volts is safe as hell

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>*teleports behind you*, nothing personal kid

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tfw 240v everywhere but my power tools are 18v cordless

I bet you feel really superior running a 7W light bulb off of 240V like an idiot.

That's a good price, what are you complaining about?

I need to buy 10 of them

>No you're paying for ACFI and GCFI built into the breaker
Those features don't cost an extra $35 to implement. They're about $2 in materials and work.
It's the liability.

>mfw i could use a circular saw in my bedroom in new zealand
>now i have to run an extention from the garage
Becoming a voltlet sucks.

>120 volt
LOL americans and their microwaved water

I don't know anything about welders but power tools usually are 110v unless it's some giant industrial planer or something

Don't fuck around with electricity, you fool.

>arch welders
Wow so the users really do everything from scratch huh

Comes down to cost and resale value. One of the first things a home inspector looks at is the panel. If it's an apt why the fuck would you care?

lawl

I use a kettle. Stay mad.

How many amps is your main service? Like 30 or some shit? I bet I could run 3 or 4 of your guys' houses off my 240v 50A dryer/range plug.

>120 volts is safe as hell
Thor ass nigga

>home inspector
>determining resale value
You have no clue what you are talking about. Home value is determined by the buyer. An appraiser can determine the value to ensure the buyer doesn't take out a loan that isn't appropriate for the price they are paying (as in they overpay for the house, they cannot take out a loan for more than the actual value of the house to protect the lender, you can pay whatever you want but can only secure financing for the appraised value). Inspectors are only concerned with making sure remodels/new construction are done properly. The type of breaker has ZERO impact on anyone's evaluation of home value. Houses in San Francisco with screw type breaker and knob and tube wiring sell for just as much as fresh service change houses on the same block.

Do you think all electronics come with a US plug?

If they did we'd have a lot more housefires than we have now.

>120 volts

Top kek

maybe the fact that they're called arc welders and not arch welders?

>something that doesn’t happen

>literally only exist to protect retards who are too dumb to know what electricity does

>buy faulty device
>touch case
>get shocked
good thing you were smart and know what electricity does so that you didn't need an rcd

Whats wrong with that?

I bet you feel really inferior running a 1/1.5kw kettle when europeans can run a 3kw kettle anywhere in the house

240v is pretty standard for welders, especially bigger ones. You really only find 110 on gear that's meant for light-duty hobbyist/small biz use or is supposed to be portable, or sometimes on TiG machines that can run on 110 or 240 but are crippled on 110.

Machine tools (mills, lathes, etc.) are pretty much all 240, but most serious ones take it a step further and require 3 phase, and that's a real pain in the ass to get at home.

I'm American and I'd never even heard of this shit until I saw a Mythbusters episode or something about superheated steam explosions when doing it. We always used a kettle on the stove and so did all of my friends' families. Nowadays I use one of those Japanese boiler/dispenser things, it's really handy in a house full of coffee and tea addicts.

>only 240v in the garage

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People use their stoves retard.

This, Europe has three-phase sockets in homes commonly. I think circular saws where actually the common appliance for that.

>Europe has three-phase sockets in homes commonly.

This is the first time I've actually been jealous of Europe's power system.

>dat windsor

>he uses a kettle
What a fucking s0yb0y.
Baby going to have a little teaparty?
HAHAHAHA
The fucking state of euros.

>he uses a microwave

I guess they would know about those when most European homes have a three phase sockets in their garages for 400V

Why you use single pole breakers for mains?

I'm no expert, but In Norway we use single pole breakers only for DC control circuits.

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Ayyyy lmfao
>120v
>houses made of thin plywood that fucking cant support heavy loads on walls and fly away from a hurricane
>fuck off ameripigs
360v for my oven in ma flat

Because there's little reason to break neutral if it's grounded right before the input. And if for some reason neutral breaks and live does not (I've seen retards install fully separate breakers for both!), everything in the house is suddenly live!

2-pole breakers are nice for maintenance, though, as you can switch them off and be sure that you're safe even if a fuckup happens upstream.

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you sure it's 360 and not 380/400?

mine are $5 for 20amp GE ones

see
non GFCI ones are like $1.50

It's probably safer than hell. I can't imagine hell being very safe.

You can die from 120V, but you can't die in hell!
ELECTRIKEKS BTFO, PRAISE JESUS

I wouldn't trust $1.50 breakers too much

JESUS SAVES

No nigger iam not sure maybe its 380or 400 idc
Atleast its enough to BTFO these americuck voltlets

>120V
>turn toaster and water boiler on at the same time in the kitchen
>circuit breaker trips

Most kitchens have multiple 15 or 20 amp circuits. A "water boiler" and one side of a toaster would be fine on a 20 amp circuit.

>voltlets
kekked 10/10

We had electricity first and the insulation and outlet technology wasn't good enough for safe 240 at the time. So we have to eat the consequences of established infrastructure.
Also kitchens are 20A, so we could use 2400W kettles if anyone made them, but there's no market demand since really 1500W is plenty for direct heating a few cups of water. I'm never sitting at my kettle going "damn I wish this would boil faster", I start the kettle then go about my business preparing my cup and such. Sometimes I have to reach over and turn it off because it's coming to a boil too quickly for me to be ready for it.

Microwaving water is for poor retards who don't own a stove and don't know what an electric kettle is.

nice meme

Hoy keked my day