/pcbg/ - PC Building General

Did they fix the MSI Afterburner bug with it killing Vega FPS?

A lot of faulty benchmarks were made as a result of that. I wonder what else was similarly affected.

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I tried update 2 days ago.
Looks like it's not update thing, yet gpu thing(not sure actually, but friend tell me so, his gpu died like this recently)
Will RX be fine with my MSI shit? Like, board+gpu compatibility? I actually last time builded pc at 2007, so i still know only shader things.
Should work RX with Computer Vision btw? My old laptop has had integrated RX and as i remember it was poor optimised for it(as console said at least). I need my pc not only for gaming reasons.
Nice.

Need help with a build for my workplace, mainly using it for Autocad, Engineering Base (if anyone here ever heard of it) and general office work.
The very good build at logicalincrements seems more than enough for the task but should I go lower? higher?

Oh yeah, budget is around 800$ and once more thing, the boss knows jackshit about anything computer related, but I'll feel bad showing him a check of 2k for a damn PC.

>that Red Devil 580 already jumped back up to $370

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Been saving up money so upgrade. Are these 4 things good or are they outdated at this point?

GPU - Geforce 1080 Ti
MB - ASUS Z370-A
CPU - I5-8600k/I7-7500k
RAM - 16GB DDR4 from whoever

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Need a 250gb SSD, what's a good brand?

The only incompatability you can have with GPUs is if your PCI lanes are too slow. But PCIe3.0 x8 should still be fine for an RX560. I don't imagine your PCIe is any older than that but I forgot what board you said you had.

$800 isn't much budget for that.
Most CAD programs use CUDA and not OpenCL so you might want to try and get a used GTX 970 for like $150.

Yep.
I should have grabbed it for $260. Fuck me.
Somehow RX580s are going used for $260 on ebay ??? I don't understand it at all. It must be fake bids, right?

Oh well. They'll go on sale again.
I really want that Sapphire special edition with the 8400MHz RAM most of all. I don't think those'll ever be a reasonable price new again. I'm pretty bummed.

>8600k with a 1080ti
based retardest build

MX500, SU900, WD Blue.
MX500 is slightly faster of the bunch, but if one of the others is on sale and relatively cheap then they're great buys.
Also, really just get 500gb. It doesn't cost much more. ~$115 for 500GB fast reliable SSD is a good deal.

>based retardest build
im going based on recommendations from others

whats wrong with that pair

>Also, really just get 500gb. It doesn't cost much more. ~$115 for 500GB fast reliable SSD is a good deal.
I could but I don't think I really need it. I was gonna just put my OS and a few games on there.
And use it for recording video. I'm operating under the assumption that I'll actually be able to record at 60fps without slowdowns.

Will they ever make monitors that aren't short or ultrashort again?
Only way to get 8:5 or 5:3 is with a Surface.
This makes me sad.

Video fills drives up fast as fuck and burns through your drives endurance at that. Video editing is the one thing I highly recommend a dedicated NVMe for.

>spending $2000 and you only have 6 threads.

6 threads is okay for some budget build with an 8400. Anything else and you should have a 2600X at minimum.

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if they aren't brand new they're used mining cards, I'd only buy them new for $260, that is well over MSRP still so it makes no sense to buy them used

I know.
I'm not saying I'd buy a used one at $260.
I'm saying i'm surprised that people will (supposedly, if they aren't fake bids) pay $260+ for used RX580s.

Granted i'm looking at higher end models like the Nitro+ Special and Strix, but still.

>Video fills drives up fast as fuck and burns through your drives endurance at that. Video editing is the one thing I highly recommend a dedicated NVMe for.
I'll have to see if my motherboard is compatible (not sure why it wouldn't be), but what would you recommend?

>$800 isn't much budget for that.
>Most CAD programs use CUDA and not OpenCL so you might want to try and get a used GTX 970 for like $150.
No 3D for this work, only 2D.

Another 1440p 144hz Freesync monitor sale. $300.
This one looks nicer with thinner bezels, but I don't think it has adaptive overdrive like the Nixeus @ monoprice.com/product?p_id=31004

Well older motherboards don't have NVMe support, that's true.

Are you on Ryzen? StoreMi can help since it'll write first to your SSD and then move to the HDD in the background when it's not used, so you don't have to worry about not having enough write speed nor running out of storage. It sounds like you're on a tight budget.
If budget didn't matter, I'd recommend 500GB SATA SSD for your main drive, and 256GB NVMe for scratch/work drive.

don't get why you guys still think you need more than 1core to play video games. you don't need a i7 you need a i5 at most and that's just because some games are retarded and make their opening menu and matchmaking shit use 4cores.

pubg for instance lags in the opening menu on a 2core but performs the same in game. the only games ive seen that perform worse on 2core could be fixed with better programing or some config file edits they cant actually program a game to run on 8-10 cores its impossible.

i5 is best for now but even that is excessive and in many games disabling cores to get extra cache will actually give you higher FPS.

any game that performs worse on a i3 is literally made badly and can probably be fixed with some edits to the config.

also the meme that you need extra cores for background programs and tasks is 100% fake that's not how windows works lol.

Just bought 2 months used Gtx 1070 Ti for 430€. replacing my Gtx 680, hope I did good lads. Only new CPU to go then I'm probably good for 1440p.

how about 2600 or 2600x? currently using i5-6500

My i5-2500k stuttered in games. My 1600X does not. You're a liar.

Plenty of tests shows this is the case as well, and that it's not just placebo. Look at Digital Foundry's tests comparing the 2c/2t pentiums to 2c/4t and things have only trended further toward needing more threads.

>ny game that performs worse on a i3 is literally made badly and can probably be fixed with some edits to the config.
Lots of games are console ports and consoles are 8 threads.
And on those console ports they don't have discord and shit running in the background.

X are worth it this time around.

Oh yeah, sure. I'll go right ahead and sell my 1080 Ti so that I can buy a motherboard with fucking wifi and RGB LEDs on the PCIe slots.

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>you don't need multicore for games guys
>for example, see the most poorly-optimised game of the past two years

I should clarify I'm not in the process of building a PC, but upgrading my current one. My current storage is a 2tb HDD.

It's not so much that I have a tight budget as it is that I wasn't looking to spend much more than a hundred. I could totally spring for 500gb on a sata SSD for 115 bucks, but an nvme of the same size looks like it'll be closer to 200, and I don't think I'm ready to spring for that.

I think it might be best if I start with the 500gb sata SSD and pick up an nvme later if I decide it's something I need.

>skimping on VRMs, VRM heatsinks, and decent bios to shave $100 off your $1500 high-end build
but you got that 1080 swag so your 99% max frames must be off the HOOK

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Uhp never mind, just found one at a good price.
amazon.com/Crucial-MX500-500GB-2280SS-Internal/dp/B077SQ8J1V/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1528126425&sr=8-7

>shhould get a 2600X at minimum
So I assume my choice of GPU, MB and RAM are fine then? Or is there a better option for GPU without a dump truck of cash for a titan?

Just googling i see AMD Ryzen 5 2600X for $200. I can afford more, $300 or up to $400. What is a recommended cpu for what I have?

Uhhhhh you need an AM4 motherboard for Ryzen, obviously.
As far as RAM, weren't you getting a 1080Ti? Then obviously you should be getting B-die RAM. Look for 3200 CL14. Maybe go for 2700X as well. But at 1440p a 2600X should still keep the 1080Ti as the bottleneck.
2600X is more the budget option, and lower power usage. But 2700X will give you more performance.

If you want to go all out, pair 280gb Optane 900p with a 2TB SSD using StoreMi. You obviously install Windows on the SSD, then add optane and do the pairing under Windows for StoreMi, in that case.

You're a brainlet. I chose the cheapest possible board that would run my CPU how I wanted it to run, and BIOSes are the same across entire ranges these days, save for pointless esoteric features that 0.1% of people will ever need. And the idea that expensive boards mean good VRM heatsinks is absolutely fucking hilarious. If anything they usually have a bunch of plastic garbage slapped over the top blocking airflow.

Enjoy paying for those extra LEDs and GAYMER ARMOR!!! you fucking retard.

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alright you donut what's your build?

whats the difference

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Uhhh is this a Z370 build that you guys are talking about?
A lot of Z370 boards are fucking three phases, when the minimum you should run an 8600k/8700k on is 5 phases, or maybe 4 doubled.

I have no clue why they made so many shitty Z370 boards that are worse than a midrange Z270 board after Intel increased the core count 50%, but it's fucking hilarious.

What, so I can get some advice on it from the "experts" in here? I did my own careful research and am very happy with my build, so I sure don't need advice from any of you dumbshits. Last time I looked at this thread you were still unironically recommending the G4560 in the OP.

/pcbg/ has the lowest average IQ of any circlejerk on Jow Forums.

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what's the matter, afraid some nerd is going to laugh at you for picking a board with shitty VRMs?

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If you're so happy with everything then why the fuck are you here

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you dont have the monitor for a 1080ti.

do i have to use special thermal paste on the GPU, or can I use the same stuff I use on the CPU?
I'm borrowing a friends GPU old card until the new cards come, and it gets a lil' toasty for my taste. Replacing it looks easy enough, but do you need non-conductive or some shit?

non conductive ofc. even a chink paste will do.

ARMOR is only for waterblocking.
None of those are worth buying at those prices.
I'd get EVGA SC Black Edition if it was $750 again like it was 2 days ago. Strix would also be worth it at that price.

Do people seriously pay $800+ for 1080Tis? I don't get it. It's only 25% more performance than you get from an overclocked Vega56 for 60% more money.

Also has a point.
Holy shit was that user seriously going to get a 1080Ti for a 1080p 60hz monitor?
I don't understand what goes through people's minds when they make such a decision.

I really don't need much storage.

If the ASUS MB is a no-go what sort of AM4 MB is recommended?

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I'm going to buy some airflow fans this month. My budget is around 60 dollars for three of them. though i'm willing to spend 80.

Fan size can be either 120mm or 140mm, They will be put in the front panel, bottom panel, drive cages for gpu cooling and two exhausts at the top

A fan that isn't a bit loud will be great. I'm thinking of buying this one or the Noctua PWM ones youtube.com/watch?v=TI1sMslHy0w

Thanks, anons

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This is my "monitor" and no I don't give too shits about input lag or whatever

lg.com/us/tvs/lg-OLED55C7P-oled-4k-tv

cheers, the tube that came with cpu cooler (cryorig cp7) is non-conductive.

Apparently that monitor is hdr10, 1000nits? But it's not advertised on the page. Weird. Freesync2.
I guess I should buy it if the weight fits for my current monitor arm.

Get an X470 board. ASRock X470 Master, or if you want a top of the line board then get the Crosshair.
If you want a midrange board, then the Strix.
Also get b-die ram. Something 3200 CL14 or equivalent is B-Die since no one else can run that low of latency.

Also that cooler is worse than the stock cooler of the 2700X. lmao.

Aren't you the guy who has a 1080p 60hz monitor? You need to get a new monitor if you're getting a 1080Ti.

>And the idea that expensive boards mean good VRM heatsinks is absolutely fucking hilarious.
Some cheaper motherboards are really lacking VRMs like the B350M Pro-VD or the Prime B350M-E and your overclock will be limited

I was assuming the ram I picked there was b-die ram but I'll look again.

Yeah the cooler is very old, if the one that comes with the 2700x is good enough I'll use that I guess.

No, im this guy

oh, sorry, i assumed you were planning to use a 1080p60 monitor for a 1080ti. sure, its worth it.

i did some testing on the older thread with wraith prism, yep, its worth to use it. worth the leap from 2700 -> 2700X

so this wraith prism comes with the cpu? saves me the trouble of worrying about that i guess

yep. it only comes with the 2700X. it can hold stable 4.1 ghz on all cores. stock cooler.

It might be b-die. I can't tell because there are Trident-Z that are and aren't b-die. You should link to the pcpp url next time.

4.1GHz all core is an underclock. Don't do that, for fucks sake.
Just change PBO level to max and you get 4.1GHz all cores while still having 4.35GHz boost on 2 cores.

not to mention that it is a shiny RGB thing with the AMD logo, so if you don't plan to use it there will definitely be some AMD fanboys willing to shell out ~$40 for it on ebay or craigslist that you can put toward a Noctua or Thermalright cooler

ye ye, i was just showing that it can do nice stuff even on stock cooler.

forgot to link this sorry

i'm having trouble finding anything listing with cas latency of 14, its all 15-17

even googling "3200 cl14 ram" and whatnot doesnt bring up much

One of these
pcpartpicker.com/products/memory/#s=403000,403200&Z=16384002&L=0,140&sort=price&page=1

Gentle Typhoons are excellent fans but aren't completely silent and will have a high pitched whine at low RPMs, there is only so much a dual ball bearing fan can accomplish.
As a huge fan autist I recommend the NF-A12x25 as it's basically Noctua's GT clone with the same large hub and very minimal differences in blade design except it's an FDB fan.

protip: team dark pro 2x8 3200 14-14-14-31

yes, they are getting expensive now too. i think manufacturers are pulling these bdie kits out of the market and retag them then resell higher. kek

Alright with everyones help this is where I'm at.

is the power supply ok? Any thoughts on this?

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im kinda concerened with your motherboard's vrm. but otherwise its fine.

at that mobo price, consider this one.
pcpartpicker.com/product/TWzkcf/gigabyte-x470-aorus-ultra-gaming-atx-am4-motherboard-x470-aorus-ultra-gaming

So since the 1100 series GPUs aren't going to be coming out for "a long time", what CPU/GPU would Jow Forums recommend for 1440p/144hz? Would a 2600x, 16GB of CL16 ram and a 1080ti be sufficient? Not opposed to Intel since I'm strictly gaming, but dead platform is dead.

i dont see that listed verbatism in the tech specs so what am i looking for to make sure that doesnt cause problems?

on a side note im in japan where the voltage is 100v rather than the US 120v. when i bought a dac/amp they suggested i get a special power supply, but would this voltage difference affect my current PSU or the vrm that you mention?

with comparison they look equivalent, so your saving me $10 or is there something superior about that board?

Don't know about your software but here's what i did when i got 120GB SSD:
>clean up OS HDD from unnecessary shit
>make backup #1 with clonezilla
>shrink OS partition to under 120GB
>make backup #2 with clonezilla
>plug the new SSD in
>restore backup #2 (two!) to SSD
>boot from SSD and watch Windows 7 install a couple new drivers and work like nothing ever happened
Worked like a charm. Just take notes and triple-check before committing each step and you'll be good.

better vrm. clockgen. dualbios. you might need it for the future. up to ya.

vrm is the power delivery for your cpu. the better it is, the better.

Oh and of course
>make backup #3 of the SSD once OS is up and running from SSD
>expand the OS partition to full size of SSD (it a little less, or whatever you want to do)
Also forgot you may need to boot from another one OS to shrink the original partition on the HDD. Some lunix live CD should do. In any case: backup, backup, backup.

I second this , some user mentioned problems with the BIOS

>im kinda concerened with your motherboard's vrm.
Seriously?
It's 8+2*2 phase.
Most of these X470 boards look like they're made for an upcoming 12 core CPU.

idk why I always have to count VRMs for people.

Clockgen boards are all gonna be like $210.
I'd agree, given 's budget he might want to go with a Crosshair, but that X470 Master is fantastic for the price.
I doubt he really has the expertise to use the features of Crosshair.

X470 Master seems like the perfect board for average user, and user reviews seem to back that up.

>with comparison they look equivalent, so your saving me $10 or is there something superior about that board?
I would absolutely not recommend the Aorus. Avoid Gigabyte in general. They've made nothing but crap the past year in every aspect, not just motherboards.

nope, gigabyte has a clockgen on gaming 5, and its the same board as the ultra, i have the gaming 5, the only difference of the two boards is wifi.

so people are telling me the asrock has issues and now the gigabyte aorus is crap now too

get the crosshair i guess

ICS 9FGL1214AKLF

I wouldn't say they're crap, but they're lower end. Taichi literally has the most power phases and Gaming 7 has the best (but unneeded) heatsink. Crosshair is best overall though.But you pay for it.

have been requested to build a pc for my fiancee's family. my fiancee doesnt game much but we play fortnite and sea of thieves together so ive put this rig together.

CPU: Intel Core i5-8600K Coffee Lake 6-Core 3.6 GHz (4.3 GHz Turbo)

GPU: GeForce GTX 1050 Ti DirectX 12 GTX 1050 Ti 4G OC 4GB

Ram: corsair lpx 16gb (2x8)

480 gb ssd (pny)

all put on an ASUS Prime Z370-P LGA 1151 (300 Series) Intel Z370 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.1 ATX Intel Motherboard

all stuffed into a Corsair Carbide Series 270R CC-9011106-WW Black Steel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case.

cpu cooled by a corsair h100i v2, and its all powered by a MasterWatt 550 Watt Semi-fanless Modular 80 PLUS Bronze Certified Power Supply by Cooler Master.

>so people are telling me the asrock has issues and now the gigabyte aorus is crap now too
Gigabyte fucking ass BIOS. I don't know what that person is on about with ASRock having bad BIOS. ASRock's are second only to ASUS.

Not to mention, ASRock has BIOS support which rivals ASUS, whereas Gigabyte has boards where there's only been 3 fucking updates in over a year.
Meanwhile my fucking $50 b350m board from ASRock has had 14 updates in the year since release.

Gigabyte uses some quality components and makes some quality boards sometimes, but their BIOS and support for them is awful.

>8600k
Never.
Get an 8400 for cheaper end or 2600X for higher end.

>pny SSD
Why? Is it on sale for like

post budget retard
unlocked i5 and liquid cooler seem overkill for a family pc.

>In the 27" space is the forthcoming LM270WQA panel, with a 2560 x 1440 resolution and 165Hz refresh rate. This also offers a 1000:1 contrast ratio, 350 cd/m2 brightness, sRGB gamut. It's not expected to go in to production until December 2018.
Oh boy, at least one more year until a 144hz/1440p IPS panel that isn't full of QC issues comes out.

>making this post when the Nixeus EDG27 exists

Alas sir, I happen to live in Europe.

yeah youre right. the unlocked cpu Was overkill. ill do a 8600 instead. i have sort of a high budget, 1-1.5k. They really just want silence and speed. i forgot to mention when her brother comes home from college and may play shit like dark souls (3 and probably the remastered one). dont ask me why he wont just get his own dedicated gaming pc. idk.

Absolute PC building newfag, but going for a R5 2400G no GPU meme build.
Since I will definitely upgrade it in a few years time (i.e. whenever GTX1080 is affordable, I guess):
Are motherboards mostly generally compatible? So I get one that fits this, and it'll probably be good for my next CPU/GPU/both (also taking recommendations, if you feel like)?
Also, with regards to optical drives, Wi-Fi, output/input, etc., what will I have to get separately?
...also will kindly accept R5 2400G build suggestions (do want 16GB RAM though)

You have to pay attention to the socket for your CPU. A Ryzen needs a AM4 mainboard and you're stuck with AMD after that. AMD claims they want to support that socket till 2020 though so any new Ryzen CPU will run on that shit. Your GPU will be fine no matter what. Pay attention to your power supply, you want at least 80+ bronze with 500w.

>whenever GTX1080 is affordable, I guess

he cute

I mean if you want to spend money for no reason...
pcpartpicker.com/user/oshirigami/saved/pNr3FT

actually in budget build:
pcpartpicker.com/list/y9MnpG

No Monoprice either? Sucks.

>Since I will definitely upgrade it in a few years time (i.e. whenever GTX1080 is affordable, I guess):
Navi is going to be GTX 1080 perf for $250 next year. I'm sure the 1260 will be around the same as well.

>Are motherboards mostly generally compatible?
I dunno why people think each motherboard has their own special snowflake PCIe spec or whatever.
Things are specs and standards for a reason.
The only exception is proprietary bull cunt shit fuck like Gsync.

>Wi-Fi
You can get boards with pretty good wifi built in.
Though the best wifi cards is where you have the antennae on a usb cord separate from the metal interference of your case. But if you face your antennae from your motherboard to your receiver, same shit.
pcpartpicker.com/product/nG98TW/asrock-ab350-gaming-itxac-mini-itx-am4-motherboard-ab350-gaming-itxac is one such option
Though it's mITX. You may have to go with mITX or ATX for that. You can TECHNICALLY fit ATX boards in some mATX cases if you're a madlad. Picture related.

>will kindly accept R5 2400G build suggestions
pcpartpicker.com/user/oshirigami/saved/GcXBP6

But you may want to wait for b450 boards. There's been a lot of 6+4 phase X470 boards. Really fucking hoping we'll get some 6+4 phase mATX b340 boards.

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pcpartpicker.com/list/KwvMV6

Just ordered the i-7 8700 to start my build.
Before I majorly fuck something up, what are some things I need to change? Anything I could do to make it better? Am I skimping on supporting parts that will drag my performance down?

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Are you really tring to cool a housefire with a 212 Evo? Lmao
550W is pretty low desu
And the 1080 Ti is not a 1080p card

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Either buy up monitor to 1440p/4k or buy down graphics card. That 1080p monitor is going to limit the 1080ti. If that's your monitor of choice, go with a 1060 6gb or maybe a 1070.

Also, go with the 650W (at least) PSU. Though the EVGA G3 is a great unit, nice choice.

Also your cooler (if you are planning to overclock) could use an improvement. Though I don't know a lot about coolers.

>when the ram is the most expensive shit in your build

When will this nightmare end?

Well he said non-k, right?
A 212 Evo is fine for an 8700 non-k but user still may want to delid.

Build shows k though so maybe that user is just retarded.

And yeah 1080Ti is not for 1080p.
Either get one of those $600 Gsync 1440p monitors, or get a lesser graphics card like an RX580 or 1070Ti for 1080p.
And yes, 650W PSU.

Well user wanted 16gb.
RAM might be going down. It's been getting cheaper in Asia.
All the more reason to wait for b450 boards.

>M50x headphones
god.
I can't believe how much is wrong with this build, but this is the thing that really fucking eats at me.
I don't like you and don't want to help you desu.

I'm from Mexico

Anyone knows good stores to build a PC?

Define C or Phanteks P400?

I just have my H100i V2 on a 6700k and GPU

They both seem equally capable but the fractal seems to have the better cooler intake while phanteks some nice accent lighting