/wt/ - Watch Thread: If I Had The Money Edition

This thread is about the appreciation of watches, as well as the micro-engineering and materials engineering that are required to make a fine timepiece.

>Required viewing for new people:
youtu.be/rL0_vOw6eCc

>Used watch guide:
pastebin.com/f44aJKy2

> Strap guide:
pastebin.com/SwRysprE

> watch essentials 102:
pastebin.com/Rc77hhXV

Previous thread: >66461628

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Other urls found in this thread:

youtu.be/ws-_syszg84
twitter.com/NSFWRedditVideo

So lm like, looking for a wall clock. What are some good wall clocks?

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>choosing Patek Phllipe over A. Lange and Sohne
why

First for the superior parachute webbing watch strap.

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>choosing anything over JLC

>not choosing Dufour over JLC

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Why not choose both?

If you're talking a basic PP or ALS then ALS probably win out simply due to the level of their finishing on their cheaper models. ALS still can't make an attractive perpetual calendar though.

Post interesting casebacks

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>sunburst brown
Why?

What are nice watches around 200-350 euros?

SARB035, 033

watchmaker here, lurking for the next hour and a half while I wait for a show to open. anyone have any questions?

Coffee, tea, or both?

both, not much caffeine tho

can you summarize the advances in hairspring materials historically?

Do you own your own shop or are you a manufacturer drone?

>$300 digital watch

service center drone. I specialize in Rolex, but our shop does most brands

uhh check out the story of the first navel chronometer for the first balance and hairsprings. then one day breguet thought us the overcoil. somewhere in there the industry moved away from blue steel to whatever steel aloy it uses now. and now silicon is gaining popularity because it's not sensitive to magnetism.

how'd I do?

Within the service center, do you service a watch from start to finish or do you do only one thing like operate the ultrasonic cleaner then hand the watch to the next drone?

How shit are Asian clones of ETA movements? Mine was running +5 until I dropped it a couple of times, now it wants to run like +30 fast when it's fully wound.

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I do full service

shit. can't get parts. half the time they're riveted and can't be worked on at all. replace the guts, don't service

What do you think is the most 2000s watch?

Posting this because I remember wanting it so bad around 2007. Now its discontinued.

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Is there a way to still buy the SARG005?

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How much money do you make? How long have you been doing the Rolex drone thing? What's the end goal of your career?

since 2013. $45k usd before tax. so I can't even afford the watches I work on =\

>half the time they're riveted
Didn't know this, sounds like the Chinese are fucking retarded.

>service center drone. I specialize in Rolex, but our shop does most brands
Get to work on any interesting vintage movements? Have much experience with 1960s and early 1970s Omega or high end Seiko (e.g. Grand Seiko and King Seiko)?

New? You might get lucky and find one NOS on Yahoo! Japan Auctions if you're patient.

Here's a question I've been dying to ask. Since you work at a Rolex service center, can you steal one piece from work each day (hide it in your bum or something) and eventually assemble your own Rolex at home?

>sounds like the Chinese are fucking retarded.
No, they just don't give a shit about quality or quality control. They consider it fair game to screw over their business partners and customers for every penny they can.

youtu.be/ws-_syszg84

There is a brand new one on Chrono24 and 2 pre-owned on eBay right now. Do you know how to use the google?

What's the best looking watch under $200?

Answer it for yourself you mong.

Which parts are riveted? Crucial parts that would need to be accessed/replaced at a service?

Screw of the back and take a pic of the movement fake tudor cuck.

Orient Ray II or Bambino

It's 3am so I really can't be bothered, pic related is the QC pic I got a couple of months ago though.

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Why do you niggers like G-shocks so much? I can't get the appeal of a several hundred dollar digital watch.

What's the best watch you've ever worked on / wish you owned?

uh, the best one is only $90

GWM5610. Solar and atomic

my first few years out of school I worked for a vintage shop. 60-70's Omega and Seiko are both very nice. never touched a grand Seiko unfortunately

nah. I could get like 80% of the parts, but a lot of the more expensive parts are exchange only. like dials, balances, and major case components.

only once I've seen a train bridge rivet together, but I think there are even some old Timex mechanical that do that. most often you'll see dial side wheels rived to the bridge

an old gold repeater is probably the most expensive thing I've worked on. well, I suppose a platinum Rolex day/date might be the most expensive. I would want to keep a Rolex 41xx chrono, or an old Omega 321/861 chrono I guess? the watch I've really got me eye on is the bronze Tudor, but I've never had one come across my bench

lmao wtf

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Ray II is pretty cool actually
Thanks m8

Pretty much one the of the best watches under $200, period

Have you ever worked on the Seiko 9S movements?

Thoughts on them?

under $300 even

> the watch I've really got me eye on is the bronze Tudor
have we just been punked?

Can we be butt buddies?

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Why is this valued at $500ish? Good movement? That compass looks like a senseless tacky gimmick. Is it?

What the actual fuck is this guy's problem?

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not the 9s. but I've done a lot of the 6xxx and I'm a big fan. it looks like a very similar configuration so I expect they will be great movements

not a fan? I'm not rich and I can can get a discount through my work and Rolex personal use. and that bronze and brown is sexy

I like mine

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Alcohol and loneliness I guess

>depends on his dad
>leased luxury cars when he could get away with it, now drives a piece of shit
>has about $35,000 in watches, no job
>made a video "discussing" his finances with his dad which may be the saddest thing ever recorded
>still hasn't had those fucking lumps taken off his temples
If I saw him, I'd hold him down and cut them off myself.

That piece of shit needs to driven into a field and made to pick grapes for an Australian summer, it would do him, and everyone who knows him, a world of good.

Just picked up this little piece. Not bad, for what it is.

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is the the liquid display of time?

Is there a way to check whether someone has a rolex parts account? I dropped a 70's era datejust to a CW21 who said he had a rolex parts account but theres no mention of him even servicing rolexes on his site.

Do you know if rolex still carries parts for and services the 3035 movement?

I want a vostok but I have a small wrist, little less than 6.25 inches in circumference. the watch is 15mm thick, 45mm lug to lug and 41mm in diameter. Should I get it, or will it look retarded on me?

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>45mm lug to lug
Is actually pretty small and a lot of that 41mm diameter is bezel so it won't wear as big as you think. I don't think it'll look retarded

link to video?

>has about $35,000 in watches

I thought it was way more than that.

Doesn't he have a PP World Time?

which brand is that?

yes they still make parts for the 30xx's. they still make parts for the 15xx's

not sure how to tell who's got an account. I believe you can find a list of official Rolex jewelers and service centers on their website? you should be able to ask the guy if they're officially Rolex authorized. but even if they're not, they can probably still do the work just fine. there's a lot of generic Rolex material out there that works fine. the only time you need official Rolex is for major work, dial and hands, case or bezel. crowns, tubes, rotor arbors are usually easy enough for the little shops to get

I'm a wristlet and was seriously surprised at how small Boctoks are, their thickness is the only dimension that is a concern, seriously the dial and lug to lug is tiny.

that watch is nice too

sure. What other watches do you have? I deciding on the color on the Seiko 5. Just have the 1 bambino right now.

Many World Time's aren't that expensive (relatively) second hand. You can pick one up for ~$20k

Which Seiko 5? I've got a green SNK805

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damn user. You're me! Which other watches you have? We have similar taste.

contd...
I am still deciding on the color and my NEETbux.

My modest collection

Recently added a Hamilton Khaki King as my venture into Swiss watches

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That is fucking sweet. Reminds me of the Alpinist

You guys said that the seiko 5 would be a good watch to get. The fucking minute hand stops constantly. Returning that garbo.

>The fucking minute hand stops constantly.
With the second hand and hour hand still running?

I meant the second hand. Not the minute hand.

It's brand new. I move it around constantly. I pretty much talk with my fucking hands and I'm always moving it. It just straight up stopped moving right in front of my face for almost a min straight. It has been losing time the whole time I have had it.

>My modest collection
Minced ocelot, mostly

Sounds like you got a bad one

Definitely returning this dogshit

You broke it (or UPS did)

Is this a reference that I'm missing?

If I did anything to break it, then the watches are trash. I don't know about UPS. Guessing most they did was toss it or move it. It lost time from the very first night.

Any Hamilton fans here? I just picked up an American Classic (pic related)

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looks like an anagram

Or just a comment on the quality of the collection

that's pretty badass, what are the specs?

should I get a citizen BF0580-06E or a basedko snk795?

Why would you buy a boring bog-standard quartz citizen? Eco drive is somewhat interesting.

At least the Seiko is an automatic

Looking for a specific aesthetic, help me out if you can
>Auto
>White dial
>Full set Roman numerals
>Sword, leaf, lance or dauphine hands
>Silver case, no gold
>preferably no second hand
>no complications
>no date window
Any suggestions?

Hamilton's site then throw this on the end

/en-int/collection/american-classic/h42415541-american-classic-spirit-of-liberty-auto.html#details

The only thing that sucks about it is that it's a leather strap (not the bad part) but when it gets worn over time, trying to find a similar band will be a bitch since it has the quote "without liberty life is a misery" etched in. The 80 hr power reserve is nice since I typically only wear this one on weekdays so itll last over the weekend.

Tissot Le Locle if you're willing to compromise a bit on the autism

Get a deployant clasp. Also that 80 hours comes at the cost of a lower beat rate.

yeah, I always get bummed when I like a stock strap, knowing I won't be able to find another

>Also that 80 hours comes at the cost of a lower beat rate
Yeah, I wish companies wouldn't put so much hype into power reserve. I'd take a smooth hand over a 3 day grace period any day.

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>Omega 321
yaaaaaaaaassss

I'm defiantly going to swap it out for a deployant clasp. It's a shame it just didn't come with one to begin with.

To be honest, I didn't actually get it for the power reserve. I kinda just fell in love with the look and was able to pick it up for cheaper than retail value.

I'll take that into consideration on my next watch though, thanks for the tip.