/wt/ - watch thread

Reminder that watches are technology.
This thread is about the appreciation of watches, as well as the micro-engineering and materials engineering that are required to make a fine timepiece.

> Required viewing for new people:
youtu.be/rL0_vOw6eCc

> Used watch guide:
pastebin.com/f44aJKy2

> Strap guide:
pastebin.com/SwRysprE

> watch essentials 102:
pastebin.com/Rc77hhXV

Previous thread: Deleted

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Other urls found in this thread:

quillandpad.com/2018/02/15/silicon-stay-rolex-watch-movements/
twitter.com/NSFWRedditImage

>Reminder that watches are technology.
no, watches are for fags, just like ass-dildos

Reminder that parachrome hairsprings are better than silicon hairsprings for things like shock resistance but silicon is being preferred by some brands because it's easier and cheaper to manufacture.

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what do GS use?

Why would a brand like Rolex use something different to reduce production costs?
Also, quillandpad.com/2018/02/15/silicon-stay-rolex-watch-movements/

Assembling this tiny ETA. It's literally like a 2824 only tinier.

Also it has that weird twisted stem like some other 70's ETAs.

Seiko flat out refuses to use silicon in their movements. That doesn't mean that they won't put it in their low end Seiko 5's in ten, twenty years.

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>It's literally like a 2824 only tinier.
So does it have a very short power reserve then?

I just received the NH36 movement I'm going to swap into my SNK803. I hope all goes well; gaining hacking and handwinding is nice, but the truth is that swapping it instead of my old 7s26B (the one with the design issue) that doesn't keep good time is cheaper than servicing...
I'm paying more than the worth of the watch for that movement, but that should be fun to do.

silicon doesn't have an issue with magnetism

Which one resists temperature changes the best? I only know that they switched to springs made of two metals for this reason, but I don't know how it works currently. Is silicon stable enough that this isn't required?

>Seiko did make it public a couple of years ago that they "believe in metal", and stated while they see the beneficial properties of silicon, they do not feel it is ready for long term use in a mechanical watch, at least in it's current state. It is brittle. But also, coils on hairspring cannot be adjusted manually.

>Another thing to keep in mind is that Seiko has been in the semi-conductor business since the 70's. For a company who has the full capability to manufacture silicon in-house, and not to use it in their watches, does make a bit of a statement.

>For a company who has the full capability to manufacture silicon in-house, and not to use it in their watches, does make a bit of a statement.
The statement could also be that they have massive amounts of tooling currently in use that they'd need to change to make the switch to silicon.

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Anyone working in hospitals got a preferred watch make?

it would be more expensive for everyone else than for seiko

Tudor.

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True, but Seiko seems to be led by the kind of people who don't really care about making a change for marketing purposes. If they don't see the advantage in silicon, why switch, apart from being able to say "we have silicon"?
Seiko would have never picked up the coaxial escapement.

That's an odd argument to make when seiko have spring drive

They seem to be convinced that it's a better type of movement.

You have to remember that there are two Seikos with different corporate cultures. Seiko Epson, which used to be Suwa Seikosha, is much more experimental and unsentimental. They are the side that manufactures quartz, Aston and spring drive watches.

Seiko Instruments, what used to be Daini Seikosha, are much more traditionalist in their design philosophy. The main reason they won't use silicon for hairsprings is this:

>But also, coils on hairspring cannot be adjusted manually.

Because this means they'd have to switch to a free sprung balance approach in order to use silicon hairsprings, since high levels of accuracy on regulated balances depends on extensive manual adjustment of hairspring geometries, which would not be possible with silicon hairsprings.

In fact the balance wheel and pallet forks already likely are silicon since they are made by photolithography, which SII did in the first place to facilitate building a 36000 bph hi-beat to follow their internal design traditions.

I live in Tokyo, just bought a SARB for ~$300 two days ago. Price is up online but brick and mortar shops and department stores are trying to get rid of them, probably to make room for whatever Seiko is replacing it with, maybe more Presages. You can find them here and there around town but it will take some digging. The big chains are mostly sold out.

SARX has diamond coating to protect the case and a "super clear" sapphire coating on the crystal, according to Seiko's website. Other than that SARX is a little more polished overall.

Okay guys, I gotta stop bead posting for a while so that this shit show stabilizes.
Have fun guys!

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Neither does parachrom

>Have fun guys!
Thanks.

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>Other than that SARX is a little more polished overall.
The SARX and SBDx lines have their cases and bracelets made in Japan by the same divisions that make them for Grand Seiko, though mostly without the 'zaratsu' polishing. They are manufactured and externally finished to a much higher standard than SARB tier models.

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Couldn't get a good pic, but here is the completed base movement. Now I'll regulate it and then install the automatic complication.

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>coils on hairspring cannot be adjusted manually.

this gives me so much anxiety as a watchmaker. I don't know whether I love it or hate it. hairspring adjustment is one of the few remaining human-only skills left I'm the industry. and I have spent countless hours practicing that skill.

but hairspring adjustment sucks to do. so I'm relieved that it won't be necessary moving forward?

but also, in my own watch, I generally prefer something durable which needs maintenance over something which is replacement-only

just ordered my new watch aaaaaahhhh

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I can't post on /vg/ because someone got my entire region rangebanned, but faggot mods are powerless against all the shitposters, so they just move it to /fa/. I swear this garbage site if worse by the day.

>I can't post on /vg/ because someone got my entire region rangebanned
Serves you right.

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Discord when?

>n fact the balance wheel and pallet forks already likely are silicon since they are made by photolithography
They appear to be metal but looks can be deceiving I suppose.

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which one is it?
i ordered an 80s seiko quartz shitter for 10$ and also ordered a gshock gmw5610-1

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the Stowa I've been patiently waiting to get. By far the most I've spent on a watch and I'm very excited. My first hand winding too

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oh sorry how rude of me, I also hope you'll love them both user. My f91w is still my current favourite

thank you dear user i hope you enjoy your new Stowa

>2018
>still no mechanical smart watch

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are you going to use anything to try and clean up the vintage seiko? that sounds neat

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New straps today...time to get a legitimate flieger strap on my shitter "flieger" watch.

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There are a billion speedmaster models I wish omega hadn't whored it out so much

ill ask a watchmaker what to do,it is pic related seiko
it was only 10$ tho and i couldnt find any other vintage seiko quartz

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Will recommence the posting soon, got to go blow my nose lads.

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Doesn't Frédérique Constant have one? Or is it Alpina?
But I'm not sure why you would want that. They have pretthmy much opposite purposes.

this bead guy is the worst i miss windy

Umm maybe contribute to the thread instead of whining?

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I don't think Seiko Instruments is going to be giving up on manually adjusting hairspring geometries any time soon. The consider a core aspect of their approach and refused to adopt silicon hairsprings or free sprung balances to be able to keep it.

Hell just recently they did a limited run VFA model that was manually adjusted to run +/- 2 SPD in 6 positions over 34 days of testing, which is probably the most heavily adjusted hairspring in regulated balance movement in 40 years.

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Can you make metal components using photolithography?

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Metal is probably the most common material processed with such a method just not on such a microscopic scale.

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Not bad. They really didn't need to put "HYBRID" on it though. Makes it look cheap.

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>Will recommence the posting soon, got to go blow my nose lads.
Wait wait wait. The untouchable street-shitter guy is doing this *manually*?
>mfw my time will never be as worthless as this sad niggers.

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>browse grindr with one hand
>shitpost on Jow Forums with the other
Not that difficult desu.

Also,

>nigger's*

you retarded faggot.

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>people are paying $600 for submariner fakes and getting shit like this

LMAO

Anyway, back to the beads.

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