/mkg/ - Mechanical Keyboard General

/mkg/ - Premium Rubber Domes Edition

>Buyer's template:
pastebin.com/33S1gVkG
>Where to Buy:
pastebin.com/8Yku80VL
>FAQs:
pastebin.com/M5w7QtKp
>Use the buyer's template
pastebin.com/33S1gVkG
>Group Buys
docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1nl3D0wIqf3tU43bu0mc0LSkxeh2CxGrchr_OViEjZ4c/htmlview
massdrop.com/
>Keyboard wiki
deskthority.net/wiki/Main_Page
>Keyset wiki
keypuller.com (web.archive.org/web/20161101152119/http://keypuller.com/)

Last Thread >News
Razer is stepping up its game:
Razer has announced a new optical switch in their huntsman keyboards called opto-mechanical. Built by A4tech for Razer, it features a clicking mechanism for tactile and auditory feedback while using an optical sensor for lighting fast response times. Razer expects 1.5-2ms of input lag thanks the lack of debounce times compared to the 8-10ms if a standard mechanical switch.
Some specifications
Actuation Force: 45g
Actuation Point: 1.5mm
Total Travel Distance: 3.5mm
Durability: 100 million clicks
Compatible with Cherry MX keycaps
If these switches look very similar to Bloody's Light strike switches, it's because A4tech is the OEM for both of them, similarly to how Kailh and Greetech are the OEM for Razer's green, yellow and orange switches.

While on the subject of Razer switches. Razer is now allowing third parties to use their switches and software. The new Ducky Shine 7 for example will feature Razer switches in addition to cherry MX switches. Additionally Razer is also allowing third party keyboard manufactures to use chroma software and sync up with the entire chroma ecosystem. MSI, NZXT, AMD, Thermaltake, Lian Li, Vertagear, Gigabyte and Ducky have all been given access to the chroma API

Attached: naked topres.webm (500x281, 180K)

Other urls found in this thread:

aliexpress.com/item/Rainbow-Dash-Futanari-Dakimakura-MLP-Adult-Brony-Fun/32598836635.html
danluu.com/keyboard-latency/
deskthority.net/workshop-f7/designing-a-custom-topre-board-t11734.html
twitter.com/SFWRedditVideos

>Budget
$150 or less

>Location (continent at least)
USA

>Preferred switch type
This is where I need he most help. I like Topres (45g) a lot. This keyboard will be for work and I don't want to spend as much, so Topres are out of the picture. Cherry Blues are nice, but the clicky might be too loud. Browns feel like a linear key with sand in them. Clears are a bit too stiff for my tastes. Any suggestions?

>Layout
ANSI

>Form factor
65% or 75%. I want arrow keys, but something a little smaller than a normal TKL would be nice.

>Backlight
No.

>Previous/current keyboards
FC660C, which I like very much

what about topre clones? or do you want something more traditional?

Either way would work

how about this?
aliexpress.com/item/Rainbow-Dash-Futanari-Dakimakura-MLP-Adult-Brony-Fun/32598836635.html

Attached: hhkb topre cucks.jpg (750x1116, 258K)

>MX stems
Cool.

I've got this derelict looking old-ass hall keyboard along with the equally sleazy looking early 80's terminal it belongs to. (I didn't disassemble it, received this way.) Shoud I try to restore it's original state or should I make a pc keyboard from it?

Attached: hallkb.jpg (2196x2108, 790K)

So, my parents have sold my Model M because they "didn't think I'd have any use for that old thing after moving". What should I replace it with?

>hall effect switches
dang those things are a pain in the ass to convert. It is possible, but you'll be stuck with 1kro

Attached: 2018 keyboard.jpg (2400x1600, 1.04M)

>tfw typing on cherry mx switches

Attached: fadesfd.jpg (640x480, 70K)

FUCJ

not really a mechanical keyboard but what do you think about the sculpt? I have pretty big issues with my forearm/elbow so i figure if i combine this with a vertical mouse id be able to work somewhat painlessly

Attached: Keyboard-width.jpg (1024x565, 87K)

if it ain't split, it's shit

Just get a dactyl

Attached: 1529611039348.jpg (2013x1836, 666K)

Here, at least have a potato pic of both halves together.

Attached: IMG_20180626_185300.jpg (3188x1738, 1.31M)

the wrist support and the downwards slow is kind of a big deal for me desu

You're not supposed to be resting your wrists on anything while typing m8. Though maybe if I can be assed to I might print something like this.

Attached: alumide.jpg (4032x3024, 1.36M)

n-ngh.. stop that!

Attached: 1512412457574.gif (384x408, 182K)

Is there a reprogramable Topre keyboard?

Hasu HHKB or FC660c

Tenkeyless gives another 10 cm of space for my mouse.

Attached: IMG_3776.jpg (2016x1512, 833K)

>being a manlet and a desklet
lmao

Just got my Hako Royal Trues today and I'll give you guys a bit of a review. They are an interesting switch. Extremely tactile, I would say the tactility is similar to that of a heavier dome. The hako spring effectively keeps me from bottoming out after the bump so in terms of weighting it's exactly what I've been wanting. On the return these things really pop back up, so I would say that the reset is even more tactile than the downstroke.

Conclusion: I like them better than BOX Navies.

Do you happen to have any royals (with navy springs) to compare them to?

Unfortunately no. I do have navies that i was going to try and spring swap with the hako royals but i can't get them open.

What was so hard about just putting your mouse on the left hand side?
now just to type 10, you have to either
a. move your hand from one side of the keyboard to the other
b. use two hands FOR NUMBERS

Just try using tweezers to pry open one side, then pry the other side while keeping the other one still open.

>putting a right handed mouse on the left side

how the FUCK do I hotswap switches??
I pulled all these shitty outemu blues out of my keyboard and I have a bunch of gateron yellows to put in, but the yellows keep bending and the leaf is getting pushed up inside. Am I fucking stupid??

>Am I fucking stupid??
yes, I hope you're not mounting the switches upside down
now tell me what keyboard?

mechanical eagle z77. they are not upside down either, the pins are in the holes right up until I try to push it in

you have to crimp the thin pin with a pair of pliers

oh holy shit I just noticed the pins are a tiny amount wider. How should I crimp them? Trying to do it with the pliers just results in twisting it

Any 100% ortholinears out there?

yes

There's the BFO-9000 from keeb.io if you're okay with a split board.

Attached: [email protected] (1060x795, 110K)

you could file it down, but I would be very careful and make sure that dust doesn't get inside the switch. You can also open up the switch and use the outemu leafs

I'm not, I just want an ansi-like layout with ortholinear non staggered letter rows

then get a couple Tipros

Attached: Tipro Single Unit.jpg (2272x1704, 1.87M)

filco lag 30ms
danluu.com/keyboard-latency/
unusable for gaming. get a 0.2ms keyboard for 30$ q700 from taobao

My Bloody keyboard only lags 0.0000000000005 milliseconds

you are based as fuck, my man. I guess it's time to file the other 102 switches but I'm just happy it works

are there any split keyboards with topre switches?

yes

Attached: utron_keyboard_04.jpg (800x505, 112K)

The plank is 100% ortholinear :^)

Typematrix

What is the biggest keyboard with the most keys on it? Like one of those old terminal keyboards.

I don't want a standard 104/105 keyboard layout, I want much more.

Attached: 14545678534.gif (300x171, 1.81M)

Tipro

Attached: Tipro.jpg (741x233, 146K)

There was this, but the project seems dead now.

deskthority.net/workshop-f7/designing-a-custom-topre-board-t11734.html

Point of sales keyboards

Out of "standard" consumer boards, there's either the 120-key model M, or the hyper7 or whatever it's called (a space cadet recreation).

Attached: 1525016184651.png (1024x635, 944K)

Wrong fucking image

Attached: 1525095566834.jpg (4032x3024, 1.18M)

>discontinued
kill me now, senpai

Do any Cherry clones have a version of the Cherry Brown that isn't trash?

pretty much everyone makes that now

Let me clarify: Cherry Browns are barely tactile. Does anybody make a switch with a comparable actuation force where the tactility is more noticeable? Basically what I'd like is a Blue except quiet(er).

But blues don't even have any fucking tactility, much less than standard browns

Best browns are generally gaterons, from what I hear.

Kailh box brown. Box royal if you want it to be even more tactile.

Kthx

gateron browns are pretty nice

>blues don't even have any fucking tactility
wrong

>use two hands
>for TYPING
woah...............

Attached: thus felt zarathustra.jpg (632x802, 94K)

topre lag 55ms

I'm and I got 4 switches done so far. I'm grinding the pins down with a Dremel then drilling through to let the LEDs shine through more

Attached: IMG_20180629_194732.jpg (4048x3036, 3.9M)

sorry for the 4mb retard image

do they still work properly? I'd imagine the uneven surface would cause some key chatter

at least it's in focus, no problem.

>have rgb keyboard
>caps aren't shine through

Am I an idiot? I like the light bleeding around the caps, I could care less about lit legends.

>not using a pair of tweezers and a PCB as a keyboard

Fucking plebs.

Attached: IMG_20180410_182357.jpg (2016x1512, 519K)

they're great, there is no uneven surface actually. the copper pins just have like 1/16 of an inch taken off to match outemu slots in my pcb

that's actually the new fad. some keyboards now only come with RGB under glow instead of shinning the RGB through the keycaps

>gaming

Okay, so I swapped a navy spring into a hako royal and vice versa.

Hako Royal/Navy Spring: Guaranteed bottom out but doesn't really lose that much tactility, except on the upstroke. Definitely worse than stock.
Box Navy/True Spring: Not noticeably that much different from standard box navies, except for a more cushioned landing after the click. Definitely would help keep you from bottoming out on box navies but wouldn't be worth the time it would take to spring swap all your switches.

what keycaps and in what profile should I get for my Pok3r? It has nature white switches.

yeah i think ive decided pn gateron clears for my next board. should i buy a diy kit or is there really no point? im not really a fan of keys being sunk into a shroud anymore so i want something where everything is raised (way easier to clean as well)

Tada68 with metal case

The custom DSA sets from PMK are a pretty good option in my opinion.

looks ok but that border of raised plastic around the board is what im trying to avoid. something more akin to a claymore in terms of the key raise

Attached: claymore.jpg (1919x517, 206K)

oh right, but it doesnt look like clears are available

That's why I said metal case you retard
Gateron clears are available, you're just a brainlet

You've disappointed me user. I had high hopes for you

>That's why I said metal case you retard
its still raised around the edge. iu disappoint myself with my existence. at every level of application i screw up by prioritizing speed above all else.

Interdasting. Would be nice if hako springs were sold separately.

This has probably been asked to death, but is the Pok3r any good as a first time 60% mechanical keyboard?

Attached: large_1232_whitepok3r.jpg (1200x800, 300K)

If youre worried you wont like a 60%, pick up an ANNE PRO

I don't think the Anne Pro looks even remotely as good as this.

I'm too lazy to order a switch sampler. I was wondering what switch is best for someone who hates blues. I'm actually willing to buy a new keyboard even though my current Cherry MX Blue keyboard is in perfect condition, purely because I hate the switches. I feel they take too long, and they don't have a nice spongey feel to them, the tactile bump is actually a negative for me personally. And I hate the fucking clicky noise.

Attached: pepe green.gif (1836x1564, 656K)

The build quality of the POK3R is miles better buts the Anne Pro is very cheap. Also this is an anne pro

Ive had mine for a year and as far as useless consumerist trash you dont need its fucking excellent. get mx clears and youll be glad. Only reason Im buying an hhkb is for the topre / layout. pok3r is a fantastic board.

Can somebody explain to me the point of 60% keyboards? Why do people buy keyboards without arrows?

It's to put the mouse closer to the home row, so you don't have to reach over as much for the mouse. Ergonomics in other words. Also you can put the arrows either on the right mods, just have dedicated arrows with a 65% board, or have it on another layer on wasd or whatever.

60% boards have arrows

should i buy this one?

Attached: razer.png (370x370, 81K)

Are you 12 years old?

yes

then your mom should buy it for you

ok,i'll ask her

good boy

she said no :(

what now?