/pcbg/ - PC Building General

>Assemble a part list
pcpartpicker.com/
>Learn how to build a PC (You can find more detailed videos on YouTube)
youtube.com/watch?v=9M2-UIwWguw
>How to install Win7 on new CPUs
pastebin.com/TUZvnmy1

Want help?
>State the budget & CURRENCY for your build
>List your uses - e.g. Gaming, Video Editing, VM Work
>For monitors, include purpose (e.g. photo editing, gaming) and graphics card pairing (if applicable)

Overclocking
>Use PBO on Ryzen. Legacy overclocking is defunct on Ryzen 2#00X CPUs. youtube.com/watch?v=FC3fsVk9Sss

CPUs
>R3 2200G - Bare minimum gaming (dGPU optional)
>R5 2400G - Consider IF on sale
>R5 2600/X - Good gaming & multithreaded work use CPUs
>i7-8700K - Best for 1080p gaming, but most expensive when factoring in delid, high-end cooler, etc.
>R7 2700/X - Best high-end gaming/mixed usage on a non-HEDT platform
>Threadripper/Used Xeon - HEDT

Motherboards
>Only Z300 series boards can utilize fast memory with Intel

RAM
>8GB - Enough for most gaming use
>16GB - Standard for heavy use
>32GB - If you have to ask, you don't need this much
>Current CPUs benefit from fast RAM; 2933MHz+ is ideal

Graphics cards
>GPU prices have gone down
1080p
>RX 580 or 1060 6GB are standard 1080p 60fps+ options
>1050Ti or RX560 for lower settings 1080p, or older games
>GTX 1070Ti/Vega 56 if seeking higher fps & you have a CPU + monitor to match
1440p
>Vega 56 or Vega 64 /w Freesync; 1070Ti if you already have Gsync
>GTX 1080Ti if seeking higher fps & you have a CPU + monitor to match
2160p(4K)
>Titan V

Storage
>Consider StoreMi
>Consider getting a larger SSD (better GB/$) instead of small SSD & large HDD
>2TB HDDs are barely more $ than 1TB
>M.2 is a form factor, NOT a performance standard

Monitors
>Always consider FreeSync with AMD cards
>Lock to 72fps on 144hz non-Gsync monitors with Nvidia cards to prevent tearing on more demanding games
>PLAN YOUR BUILD AROUND YOUR MONITOR IF GAMING

Previous:

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Other urls found in this thread:

pcpartpicker.com/list/bRmPzY
pcpartpicker.com/list/zbp8Hh
rentry.co/pcbg-FAQ
forums.battlefield.com/en-us/discussion/145928/the-ultimate-battlefield-v-alpha-graphics-performance-guide-under-construction-daily-updates
pcpartpicker.com/list/L3HBr6
ssd.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Adata-SU650-120GB-vs-Samsung-850-Evo-250GB/m359434vs2977
pcpartpicker.com/product/QMp323/thermaltake-case-ca1d500s1wn00
amazon.com/Innovation-Cooling-Graphite-Thermal-Pad/dp/B07CKVW18G/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1530581164&sr=8-2&keywords=IC Graphite thermal pad
au.pcpartpicker.com/guide/qWLrxr/excellent-amd-gaming-build
youtube.com/watch?v=PQUJ1Z6GILI
twitter.com/NSFWRedditImage

Anime is for faggots

Fpbp

Hey, this is a no bully thread.

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I see that Seagate has the cheapest 2 TB 7200 RPM HDD but I've never had a Seagate drive lost longer than a year before.

Any other recommendations?

Anything NOT shitgate

Fine taste in Chinese cartoons my friend

500GB SSD or 2tb HDD and get a SSD later? Got about 1tb of data that I need to move to the new drive but I can just keep it all on the old HDD until I can get another one.

>Seagate
Bad drives.
>Western Digital
Legit pajeet support no fucks given policy.
>Toshiba
Mediocore at best.
>HGST
Either ripoff refit parts or stupid price for new hardware.

Literally pick your poison or go with SSD only at this point.

Not him, but if WD has the best products then the chances are you won't need to worry about shitty support.

Is there a ~120GB SATA SSD with sustained seq writes better than a HDD (~200MB/s)? Even fucking Samsung 850 is only ~160MB/s (at least the 120GB model, bigger ones are way better).

I can vouch by personal experience that I never felt the need to get in touch with WD. I have an HDD from them that withstood more crap than it should have at one point, and 5 years later it is still kicking at it like it's nothing. Could be that I just got lucky and got a more resilient one than usual, but who knows.

Nope I'm thousands of Kilometres away from Sussex in fact. It's the 1st time that someone on 4chins has actually called me cute. It feels nice.

>all these AMD CPUs in OP
Big hmmmm

Huh? I've always been aggressive when people are THAT retarded.

dude that guy was just lying to you about Samsung SSDs lmao. MX500 is a top SATA SSD.
The 860 is still fine, but not worth paying more for.

Have you run memtest? It's built into Windows.
"Windows Memory Diagnostic"
It will restart and boot into it.
If it fails at fucking 2133 you should be RMAing your RAM.
It's really rare. QVL really doesn't matter much with X CPUs, especially if you get B-Die.
It's basically getting DoA RAM in 's case... except instead it barely works and gives you a false sense of confidence.

No tech product is ever flawless.

for 1080p it's not worth overpaying. 1060 6GB/RX580 are already overkill for 1080p 60fps in almost every game. The few they aren't they still run them at reasonable settings instead.

cause they better.

Had two WD drives, both failed.
Didn't have Seagate but you know their reputation.
Old HGST and Samsung drives are both rock solid.
Current drive is Toshiba P300, good drive but this (((eco))) modus is complete dogshit, takes the drive some seconds to spin up again which is ridiculously annoying.

Went to replace the hard drive in my old PC and the new drive caught on fire bas soon as I powered it on.
It smells terrible in here now.

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The Ryzen 2600X and it's shock cooler require thermal paste still, right? The manual doesn't even mention it in instructions, just says to put heatsink immediately after processor.

The 8700K is the only Intel CPU worth buying knowing that the socket won't last long

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>No tech product is ever flawless.
Obviously, but out of the choices and issues he listed is WD not the best choice?

Cooler has preapplied paste on it.

It already comes with some

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Is a ryzen 5 2600 a good deal for 150€? That's the price equivalent of a ryzen 5 1600 in my area.

>The Ryzen 2600X and it's shock cooler
That cooler is shit and not fit for OC, get an aftermarket cooler.

>not fit for OC
It's good for 4.1GHz manually overclocking

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pcpartpicker.com/list/bRmPzY
Any suggestions? Is there any way I could get this down to around $1200 without sacrificing too much?

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lmao... do you have a

>still
When did they ever?

It's really not. You can turn PBO on and SenseMi will just not boost it quite as high.

Please stop spouting this bullshit unless you can show me a test where the 2600X with PBO enabled throttles and gets worse FPS than a 2600X stock on the stock cooler.

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>You can turn PBO on and SenseMi
How do you turn on SensiMi? Literally haven't seen it at all in my BIOS. Unless it's just built-in or something.

Well the spire is decent for OC, thought it came with the stealth, but that's for the 2600 non X.

The Stealth is still pretty decent, it can handle 4GHz without hitting 90°C on P95, a bit high but doable

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You don't turn off SenseMi lmao.
It's what stops you from burning up the CPU and helps manage XFR2.

I think I worded that fine. I was saying you can turn on PBO, and with PBO on then SenseMi isn't going to let it boost so high that it burns up. The better your cooling, the longer XFR2 with PBO enabled will hold max 4.25GHz on 2 cores and the higher it'll up the all core boost.

Nope. Yes the Stealth is a lot smaller.
The Spire has a FUCKING VAPOR CHAMBER. It's pretty decent and quiet. 125W TDP cooling or so.

Considering that Prime95 is basically to heat up the CPU, and normal usage will never see that high, yes that's okay. But the Spire and not doing a manual multiplier OC is better.

How does this look Jow Forums? I'm pretty sure the ram is b-die, specs for it is 3200 Cas 14. Inb4 rgb ram I know and I don't mind overpaying for lights. Is the PSU good enough, or should I go higher? And how's this case, I'm going strictly air cooled instead of liquid cooling. Would there be a better case for that, maybe phanteks? I've heard Meshify-C is the best for airflow.

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Too high for comfort for me. Also 4GHz at 1.23v? Seems like a winning the silicon lottery.

Is a ryzen 5 2600 for 150€ a good deal? I've seen ryzen 5 1600 CPUs for around the same price.

Get mouse and keyboard at anywhere for like $20. Also get just 2tb hdd

Mobo seems overpriced, Gigabyte Aorus should be at $150, rest seems fine.
PSU is good, if you wish an upgrade EVGA G3 or SeaSonic PRIME are excellent options.
Yeah good deal, but maybe it's too good to be true, where did you find it?

Is a disc drive necessary in this day and age? Almost everything can be done through a USB.

Looks good, I'd get a B-Die kit to overclock the memory more than on a CAS16 kit like here or pic related, a X470 motherboard for better VRMs (and not having to deal with updating the BIOS, the B450 motherboards from MSI will come with Flashback), the 2600X, the MSI MK2 OC (better and cheaper), an IPS 75Hz monitor and a modular PSU
pcpartpicker.com/list/zbp8Hh
If you could spend a bit more consider the P350X, Meshify C or Enthoo Pro M and a Focus Plus Gold 650W

Forgot the pic

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Replace PSU with TX550M if it's still $40. $82 is heavily, heavily overpaying for that PSU and you can often fine platinum at that price.
I think the Strix X470 is a bit overpriced for a board that doesn't have POST codes and shit and I'd look at the X470 Master instead, but looks solid. And there are reasons to get the Strix instead (better BIOS) it's just expensive.
RAM is also ridiculously expensive. Is that really the cheapest RGB B-die?

Also I'm pretty sure you can get the 2700X for $290 new from ebay. Dunno why no one ever searches froogle for the cheapest parts.
I'd also spend the $90 more to get the 1TB MX500 at the point of how much you're already spending.

It's ok. I'd just really get the X when it's not much more. But 2600 is really all you need for 60fps minimums in AAA games.

4GHz at 1.2-1.25 is absolutely normal for 2000 series.
The problem is that it's basically an underclock since 2600 does 4.1GHz 2 core boost...

no lmao. Of course not.

Get the 2600X for $5 more ffs
I'd also spend the $15 more for B-die RAM. rentry.co/pcbg-FAQ ctrl+f Memory(RAM)
Not sure why you picked that SSD.
>TX550M is $60 now
oh wwell I guess.

It's decent but could be better.

It's a pretty weird deal but a hardware youtuber is selling it after doing a few hours of testing. He's even really nice to include the original receipt.

>The 860 is still fine, but not worth paying more for.
It's 960.

Why did fucking Samsung stop making 120GB SSDs? Every other manufacturer I see has worse specs.

>games don't use more than 3GB of VRAM. Just turn down settings
lol

forums.battlefield.com/en-us/discussion/145928/the-ultimate-battlefield-v-alpha-graphics-performance-guide-under-construction-daily-updates
Probably optimizations to do. It's probably doing lots of automatic console shit to use what you've got, but still.

Ah okay. Go for it.

You got memed m8. Paying twice as much for no perceivable difference in most real world use cases.
NVMe like the 960 are for video editing, maybe a scratch disk for things like PS. In hundreds of these threads, I've never heard of another legitimate use case for them that you'll actually see a perceivable difference.

Why do you need a "fast" 120GB? You want a super fast boot drive because you spend all day pressing the reset button on your PC instead of actually using it to shave half another second off the 12 second boot time? Even a SU900, WD Blue, or Team Group L5 would be fine.

It is nice to have OS on a separate small SSD, and to then have another SSD that's larger for everything else, as it prevents anything bad from happening to your OS, but you don't need a very fast 120gb drive for that.

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Is there a significant difference between a 2133 and a 4600 ddr4 ram?
I know it's a size thing that fits into a motherboard and it's not interchangable, but I'm curious if there's an actual performance difference.

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pcpartpicker.com/list/L3HBr6
How did i do? Should i buy it?
I'm planning on adding another 8gb ram stick when it gets cheaper (probably never)

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Will Adata SU650 be enough too? It's the cheapest 'respectable brand' one here.

So I've already got a sata power cable coming from the PSU to two HDDs. Can I still use one of these so the one cable is servicing three HDDs?

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>You got memed m8
Yeah thought so. Had a decent discount which lured me in but in retrospect I'll switch back.

>4GHz at 1.2-1.25 is absolutely normal for 2000 series.
Interesting, maybe I upgrade from 1600 + X370 + 2933 CL16 to 2600 + X470 + 3200 CL14 if I see a good offer.

>tfw no native thunderbolt ports on mainstream mobos except fatal1ty ITX

I just ordered an Asus prime-a with thunderboltex 3 card, hope it's not THAT pain in the ass to get it working

upgraded my i5 4590 to a 1800x today.

works as intended. cut down my render times a ton :D

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I'm considering getting a smaller 500W PSU for a future case change. Is switching to a smaller PSU for a mini ITX build a good idea?
I currently have an ATX 520w SeaSonic 80+ Bronze PSU but it's incompatible with the cases that I'm currently considering. Some of them accept it but it does create additional difficulties with GPU length and sometimes Mobo positioning.

what is the best non-metal thermal compound?

i remember a long time ago when arctic mx2 was good

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Ok now the cooler is just not screwing in at all. Seems way too short. What do?
Mobo is X470 Master SLI

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Semen

Do I have to worry about abysmal mixed Read/Write results or is SU650 good enough?
ssd.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Adata-SU650-120GB-vs-Samsung-850-Evo-250GB/m359434vs2977

wipe it off and use something else and use the rice grain method

NT-H1 or Kryonaut

I've applied new paste, it's the screws refusing to reach the holes that's the issue.

I'm thinking about buying a nice monitor in the future but I want to make sure I don't damage my ~$1000 panel because my hand slipped once or something happens to fall on it. Who makes good hard computer screen protectors?

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I'm looking for a case that is
a) small (MicroATX, no need for external 5.25" bays)
b) unobtrusive and preferably as gaymer-free as possible
I found pcpartpicker.com/product/QMp323/thermaltake-case-ca1d500s1wn00 is there anything better I should look at?

>refusing to reach the holes
Are you sure that the backplate for the mobo is still there after taking out what held it in place?

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what is the difference from CRYORIG H7 to a Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO?

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>Buy new computer
>Don't have any new games to even play on it

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I want an X470 or B450 motherboard that will last approximately till the fucking heat death of the universe with a 2700X at stock
Do I buy asus, asrock, gigabyte or msi? (biostar isn't sold here)

personal experience I've only had one motherboard die on me and it was an asus z77 but a sample size of one doesn't seem like a good basis to blow $300-$400 on

Why i7-8700k in OP but not i5-8600k?
Is it really worth the extra $100?

oh, I think I get it. I remove the back plate and put it above the CPU for the extra reach right?

Single Core Threaded vs Multi Core Threaded.
If you only play games, don't stream, etc. i5-8600k is probably more than fine.

the one your mom likes best :)

Intel isn't worth anything but Inteltards may as well blow their money on the best one since they'll have to upgrade the socket lasts 2 months and you can expect the chip to overheat after 6 max if you don't delid

never mind i'm retarded lol

Not sure exactly. SSDs have gotten a lot better in most ways the past few years.

Good thing you didn't order already, then.
MX500 500GB for $

grats

kryonaut thermal grizzly but there are others like NT-H1 which are only like 2.5% worse for half the cost.

Silverstone FT-03 but it's old. Updated model is coming out later this year or next year.
Coolermaster Q300L.

Because 8600k is a fuckload of money not just for the CPU, but to support it (cooler, RAM, expensive motherboard) to only have 6 threads. You're better off with 2600X and fast RAM.
>Is it really worth the extra $100?
At the point that you have like a $1400 build for an 8600k, yeah $100 more isn't much more money for a lot better of a CPU.

Same reason people who got the 4690k really should have gotten the 4790k to begin with and had a much longer lasting CPU. History will repeat itself. Anyone who recommends the 8600k is underage.

That's what I figured, thanks
Explain? If I'm building a new computer for muh vidya, why would I want more cores with an AMD when games tend to rely on single threads?

>R7 2700/X - Best high-end gaming

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When will this shitty meme die?
I have an old af seagate drive from 2010 and it is still going. No bad sectors, or write errors

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think I'm going to try this out

amazon.com/Innovation-Cooling-Graphite-Thermal-Pad/dp/B07CKVW18G/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1530581164&sr=8-2&keywords=IC Graphite thermal pad

am I just falling for a meme?

Games don't rely on single thread as much as you think. AMD still has considerable single thread performance, with the 2600X at its stock 4.25GHz boost being about equal to a 2500k at 5GHz in single threaded performance while having 3x the threads.

They tend to care more about lower latency RAM, so spend your money on fast RAM and a 2600X. It'll be cheaper and overall better. Even if you "just game", you clearly don't since you're here using a web browser right now.

And like said, you don't want to end up in a situation like the 4690k where you can only get $80 for selling your 4690k and the 4790k costs $250 when you could have just got the i7 to begin with.

anecdotes, user.
Usually hardware dies in first month or year, and otherwise it lasts 7-10+ years. Survivors bias.

Yes. Thermal grizzly is better and can be used for multiple dies instead of just one at a time.

Those things should be a pack of 3 for $15 and even then I wouldn't buy them but I guess I could recommend them.

FPBP

Interesting - I was just thinking because I prefer simulation games over AAA stuff, and originally figured the 2600X would be better but the moment I started to research google results would recommend an intel cpu

I suppose I could switch up my needs and just get faster RAM? I want only the best in my citybuilding, occasional AAA gaming, shitposting machine.

When is the next wave of gaming monitors supposed to actually get here?
I want to go all in on a super monitor with all the memes, but every time I consider it I see someone somewhere say newer monitors with even MORE memes coming soon.
Should I just get a half-upgrade now for ~$300 (27 inch, 2k, prob 60-75hz - or even 400 for gambling on the dell gsync) and wait 5 more years? Been sitting on this old ass 23 inch for about a decade and I want bigger

Complete beginner here
>State the budget & CURRENCY for your build
$2,000.00 AUD
>List your uses
gaming, streaming, coding(software dev.)
>For monitors, include purpose
I have an old BenQ Zowie RL2455HM 24"
should I also upgrade/get 2nd one?

and what does Jow Forums think of the featured build?
au.pcpartpicker.com/guide/qWLrxr/excellent-amd-gaming-build

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Emulation is great with the latest generation, even RPCS3 after tweaking some settings
youtube.com/watch?v=PQUJ1Z6GILI

I was like you, I was looking for a computer mostly for gaming and sporadic high demanding tasks, so I just want to tell you to not believe Jow Forums shills, study several reviews from different sources and compare prices on your accessible stores to make a decision.

Shieeeeet, but trying to figure out if people on google are shilling or if a random anonymous user on my favourite arctic peacock-rearing forum are leading me astray is difficult.

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if you buy intel right now you will be buying a brand new mobo within 2 years if you want to upgrade unless you're starting from low end i5 and then want the better intel chips they have right now later

Is the ryzen 2700x worth it if you're just going to be gaming on it? how much big of a diffrence is it between the 2600x?

So if I'm looking from a future-proofing standpoint I wouldn't have to worry so much then right? I've actually never had an AMD cpu, but my last i5 lasted me ~5 years before my mobo and video card died on me and now with ddr4 memory I have to get new everything anyways.

I've never really done the math on replacing parts over shorter periods of time

It's been said, but the 8600K just represents bad value for money compared to AMD's 2600 and 2600X. There's only two Coffeelake CPUs worth considering IMO, and that's the 8400 for a basic budget yet too performing gaming system, and either 8700 i7 (locked or not) for the best of the best gaming CPUs. Anything in between is poor price/performance and anything lower than 8400 is inadequate.
It's a real shame the 8400 is locked, but that's how Intel justify selling the 8600K at a massive premium.

best heatsink for 40€-50€?

intel's very newest and best chip right now is the last of the socket, so the next intel chips will need new mobos

we don't know for sure but AMD has stated it's current sockets will be supported until at least 2020 and their new Zen 2 may launch this year

if you have to absolutely have the very best equipment right now then of course you'd go with the i7 8700k and a 1080i, this setup will give you best results but is not needed at all if you're gaming at 1080p

depending on your monitor and the frame rates you desire you can do the ryzen build, 2600x and a 1070ti now, save a ton of money play 1080p games well above 60 fps and when the new tech comes in relative future, you can upgrade and hopefully the bitcoin market crisis will have died down more and the saving will be even better

right now you're already paying too much for GPUs no matter what, when you absolutely don't need the extra frames buy you absolutely need a GPU you should go with the 1070ti or AMD equivalent(i don't follow AMD gpus)

test

also geforce 11xx series may drop soon, so imagine next year upgrading your gpu to 11xx series card and amd zen2 on the same board you bought now

Are the 1100 GTXs worth waiting for?

Looking to do 4k.

not really
now the price will go down

Came up with this parts list for a friend. Budget is 1000-2500 euro ideally around 2000, location is Germany. Purpose is for gaming as well as general web browsing, watching/listening to media and so on.
I realize I didn't pick a monitor, let me explain why
-He wants the build to be 'futureproofed' and therefore desires the highest specced internal expensive components
-Looking on partpicker, I note that most 1080p monitors are 200-250 euro, while most monitors larger than this are 400+ euro and that would go over budget
As a result, I'm not sure what to pick.

I also now realize that 32gb of RAM is likely excessive, and that it could be cut back to 16, but not sure about how his request for futureproofing affects this. Hard drive was chosen because it's apparently made of higher quality parts and has a 5 year warranty. No parts are being reused from a previous machine as his previous one was 11 years old.

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>intel's very newest and best chip right now is the last of the socket, so the next intel chips will need new mobos
nope
LGA1151v2 is here to stay until 2020

I thought excessive was the build theme

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