/wt/ Watch Thread

No, you use the jump hour hand to set advance the date. Vid related: youtu.be/BGlyg7RIsQc?t=1m16s

Finally Swiss movements are on parity with Russian ones.

Ball and Deep Blue both have watches with tritium hands

Happy Friday watchfam.

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Nice strap desu.

>strap

>inb4 deleted at 200+ posts
I kinda suspect it's OP doing that as a way to make us gave up /wt/ on Jow Forums.

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Nice bracelet desu.

Still waiting for a crystal for this one. I had one but I cracked it like a dumb faggot. It's supposed to be pressed into the case bezel from the back, then the crystal ring and that whole assembly presses on top of the whole watch case.

Kinda complicated even for today, when still most Swiss or even Jap mall shitters have simple press-fit crystals. Let alone the late 70's.

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You can't delete your own thread after about 20mins

Do you know what causes those blemishes on old hands? Is it just corrosion from moisture over decades?

Not sure, probably. I'm never putting hands in any kind of solvent, I'm always afraid of paint, plating or lume melting off.

Though this is at pretty high magnification, irl it isn't really noticeable.

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No but you can go and spam gore on /v/ so the mods nuke your entire post history.

Why /v/? Because Jow Forums doesn't have mods?

windy would not do that

Getting my first watch today. Seiko 5. Gonna save up for an Alpinist and skx007. Thought I would want a beater watch anyways so I decided to start with the Seiko 5.

Any tips or things I should know for my first mechanical?

Skip the dogshit 5 and go straight to the less dogshit SKX if you're committed to owning dogshit.

So apparently the Seamaster Pro still uses the cal. 2500. Do you guys think if I get one and decide to improve it, will the ETA 2892 just drop in?

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If you were going to get the other 2 anyway then you shouldn't have gotten a Seiko 5 unless you really wanted a pilot style watch for cheap

The Seiko 5 is a great watch though

The thing is I roof for a living didn't want a 250-450 dollar watch getting the shit beat out of it while I work

Its a very good movement. Its based on the Omega Cal 1120 with a co-axial escapement added, which in turn is based on the venerable ETA 2892-A2, one of the strongest and most widely used chronometer movements in the watchmaking industry. There were some cases of people having issues with them, nearly all ended up being a case of over lubrication which was corrected under warranty.

You want a cheap Casio.

Alright, Omega-salesman user. But the cuck-axial being a shit design is still a fact, I'd rather trust the Swiss lever escapement.

Buy planet ocean

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What about it do you think makes the word "cuck" relevant?

What's wrong with the 5 I don't get it.

Thanks watchfam.

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Neat, a Rolex GMT!

>clicks thumbnail

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That Kool-Aid sipping dummies like you keep vigorously defending it.

What's there not to defend?

It's been discussed a million times before, and it always inevitably ends with the Memega cuck still not getting it after a 100 post shitshow.

Then give me the short version of why you are calling it cuck.

You're a cuck if you think the co-axial is somehow a "cuck-axial".

I really like pilot watch designs. Any recommendations?

I think he believes that one has to send it in to Omega to service it, which is no longer true because watchmakers are educating themselves to service them, in particular ADs that actually sells Omega.

>I think he believes that one has to send it in to Omega to service it
You do, this is why I only buy 3135 and ETA watches.

The 2500 series of co-axials is well known to have extreme sensitivity to the exact microscopic amount of oil applied to the co-axial teeth for cushioning, with excess wear of the co-axial teeth if the wrong amount is applied or it is not serviced promptly when due being common faults.

Many claim this issue was solved in the later tri-level Co-axials, but I have reasons to doubt that, mainly that Omega is still requiring microscopic amounts of oil for cushioning on Co axial gear teeth in the newer designs.

Plus, for all the additional complexity that the co-axial escapement introduces, the actual service interval benefit versus a well made swiss lever is basically nil so it's a white elephant.

Short:
>no real advantage over Swiss lever escapement in accuracy, despite being promised
>no real advantage over Swiss lever escapement in reliability, wear or service interval, despite being promised
>supposed to originally not need any lubrication in the escape wheel or pallets, instead needs an extremely precise microscopic amount
>fragile escape wheel teeth, grab them the wrong way with tweezers and they're fucked
>pallets need to extremely precise, no way you can properly fit a pallet jewel with normal tools, any jewel problem means replacement (this becomes a problem decades from now when parts run out)
There's a reason no one but Memega, Daniels and Smith used them in the past one and a half century. AP has something superficially similar, but that didn't catch on either.

What, you think Rolex, GS, PP or JLC doesn't have the ability to produce this escapement if they wanted to? What do you think is stopping them?

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But you don't. For example, just in my own town, there are 4 omega dealers. They are all ADs. 3 of them already service Omega co-axials. 1 of them is currently educating himself to do it (he said so in april), maybe he is done educating himself by now. I had a long talk with him and this is not unique to here, it's pretty much a natural evolution that when a brand like Omega start using a new type of a movement, watchmakers will learn how to service them. By the time a new watch today needs servicing, you can be sure that even more watchmakers all over the world have learned how to.

Even if you send it to Omega it's not particularly expensive to service anyway. Apparently it's even cheaper than servicing a rolex, unless you go to some independent watchmaker who does it for a lot less.

This is all complete nonsense.

t. actual watchmaker and not some guy who watched a youtube video once

>Apparently it's even cheaper than servicing a rolex
Maybe because no work is done on them, just swapping out parts.

Are you hungarian user?

These points doesn't speak to "cuckery", these are all arguments why you think co-axial is not better.

No.
Even if that's true, cheaper means less cuckry. In fact, you are a MEGA-cuck if you want to pay more just to get a watchmaker to tinker a bit on a movement instead of swapping out parts (if that was what they do, which it isn't)

Can you fags go back to /fa/?

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Maybe you can go back to

>This is all complete nonsense.
>t. actual watchmaker and not some guy who watched a youtube video once
Did Al Archer also watch a YouTube video once and then fake the pictures of the co-axial tooth wear he took himself of a 2500 series movement?

omegaforums.net/threads/to-co-axial-or-not-to-co-axial-or-is-it-a-case-of-back-to-the-future.27893/

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I believe they have been solving the problems on the 2500 series, but if you really don't want 2500 then just buy a planet ocean, or maybe you can buy the retro-seamaster which has the modern co-axial.

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>take file to component
>looks like omega just make bad movements
That sure was tough to fake.

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Ah yes, literally the single most well known Omega authorized independent watchmaker on the internet definitely took a file to a co-axial movement in order to bad mount it online. That's why he still has his parts account with Omega right?

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Fuck off.

What's the problem m8?

>believe they have been solving the problems on the 2500 series
Yeah, by replacing the entire co-axial assembly on 25xx movements when they are serviced to try and hide their shame.

Then don't buy the 2500 you absolute crybaby.

this is a consumer technology board

>most well known Omega authorized independent watchmaker
I've never heard of them.

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My former sensei is right now working on a 2500. The service center drones fucked up the escape wheel. They grabbed it with a tweezer the wrong way and bent a few teeth.

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So what are the essential types of watches to start a collection with?

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Ones that are (technically) interesting to you for whatever reason, and also isn't some fashion brand dogshit.

Pic

Or if you are a poorfag
casio f-91w
seiko 5
seiko skx
orient bambino

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>Vostok Amphibia
>Citizen Cosmotron
>Seiko Type II
>Casio F-91W
>Poljot De-Luxe

Types are purely up to the wearer. I would be more concerned with brands. Buy watches from companies who have a legitimate history of making reliable watches. There are some micro-brand exceptions to that rule, but they seem to be hit or miss.

t. Jap shitter aficionado

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Stowa Fleiger
Alpina
Gavox avidiver
That one zenith

I take back my previous comment about that bracelet being nice.

What an abhorrent collection.

Oh no!

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SAVAGE

nice Role...

Best sub $800 diver that is not the SKX, but should be 40mm or less?

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kys

Depends if it needs to be mechanical

I think it should, yes.

Your own cluelessness is your problem.

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Quick, build a 12 watch collection
Stipulatuons:
Can't have more than 6 Japanese or Swiss watches
Must have at least 1 watch under $300
Must have 1 watch over $10k

Hey /wt/ is this already too large for my wrist, or is it acceptable?

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I think thickness might be a bit much for under the cuff wear.

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>that cliff edge of a chapter ring

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Looks great, wear it in good health.

looks fine to me

could probably go a bit bigger for water protection and shock proofness

Here it is next to a 200m Amphibia, and a Semenmaster. I guess with 1000m WR you need all that thickness...

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What's the diameter on that thing? Wristlet or obnoxiously large watch?

The thiccness is more off-putting tbhfam.

...oh. Well I guess all this empty space must be there for a reason. It's a 1000m dive watch after all.

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It's on the limit of being too big, but I think it's quite fine.

Oh, so it's a legitimate tool and not a casual watch by design. I wouldn't wear that thing unless I was in a wet suit and scuba'd up.

Lmao it's an UFO

That's extra space so if the case were to leak it would take longer for the water to reach the movement.

I think it was about 57mm if I remember correctly.

This here is a 47mm Baby Tuna for comparison.

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