/ag/ - Audio General

Pity bump for you sad fucks.

It's just a slow night

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So, I am building a 5.1 setup. I have a pair of B&W CDM1's for the rear surround, a CDM CSE for center and a pair of CDM 7SE's as fronts. The CDM1 and the CDM CSE are rated for 120 Watts at 8 ohms adn the 7SE is rated for 150 Watts of power handling.
I have plans to pick up an Emotiva A-5175 which has the following specs:

Power Output (two channels driven):
175 watts RMS per channel; 20 Hz – 20 kHz; THD < 0.1%; into 8 Ohms.
250 watts RMS per channel; 20 Hz – 20 kHz; THD < 0.1%; into 4 Ohms.

Power Output (all channels driven):
125 watts RMS per channel; 20 Hz – 20 kHz; THD < 0.1%; into 8 Ohms.

I have no experience with an amplifier this strong, can I blow my shit either in stereo or surround if I happen to crank it up to maximum?

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How do you listen with your speakers set up by your desk? do you set your chair back from your desk or do you have your bed to sit on? I tried a similar set up with my JBL L100Ts flanking my desk, but when listening on my bed, I didn't quite like the sound. I think it may have been due to the speakers being too close to my wall.

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I had the opportunity to listen to these recently. Interesting speaker.

How are they? After watching Kenrick Sound videos I think they're my dream speaker

Very impressive. Big sounding, as you might imagine. They had extremely detailed midbass, which is one of my hotspots, and sounded great with live jazz recordings.

I'd say the negatives were that I wouldn't run them full range simply because I prefer a sub-sat setup in order to get the in room response even for the bottom octaves. Speakers these large only really make sense in giant, giant, rooms.
The 4345 might make more sense for large rooms (as opposed to giant ones).

I currently have an Onkyo A-9030 with no DAC included. Anyone know of a nice DAC with an optical port that I could pair with it?

loving the aesthetic, the thermostat really brings the whole thing together.
enjoy your tinnitus

Glad to hear they sound very nice, especially the bass with three woofers. Makes sense that they only make sense in large rooms due to their, obviously, large stature. Shame that these JBL monitors are hard to come by, the 4345 look like a great choice for a medium to large room. Oddly enough, I see a lot of JBL postings on hi-fi shark from Russia.

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Is DIY a good value proposition in that I'll get better sound for the money or should I just pick up jbl lsr305?

Is there anything objectively superior than a Benchmark DAC3 HGC and Benchmark AHB2 Power Amp for 2.0/2.1 speakers? I'm debating on throwing the $5k on equipment that will never need to be replaced and objectively have a flat response.

>JBL LSR305
If you have the know-how and are confident in what you can make, you can find good sound in DIY. JBL LSR305s are an alright choice if you decide to go that route.

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I don't think you have to spend that much on the DAC. I could see spending maybe 1500-2k on speakers, 600 on a dac, and another 2k or less on the sub.

Use to love JBL, but they do go a bit crazy on the highs it seems, esp those titanium and most of the horn tweeters. Sorry, just passing through, ignore me...

Ideally I was going to get a DAC2 HGC, AHB2, Sierra Towers RAAL and Rhythmic F12.

Klipsch RP-150Ms are also a good choice for powered monitors

All really nice stuff. Does the Rhythmic F12 have a high pass? How are you doing the crossover? Annoyingly a lot of subwoofers now don't have high passes on them because they all use that same internal dsp amp.

No idea but there are almost 20 knobs and switches on the back of the F12 to adjust to my autism. I'll probably crossover at 40 to 60hz.

I would probably crossover higher depending on your slope used. I'm saying make sure that you have a way to connect your subwoofer with that setup. If not you might look into using a MiniDSP: minidsp.com/applications/digital-crossovers/subwoofer-integration-with-minidsp

Is TPA3116 discussion here or in csg?

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where the fuck do you guys get your transistors ? I need an equivalent to the TI BD 241 and i don't know what the fuck i should pay attention to when buying FET's for audio

You can always try. Audio/video stuff in general gets discussed here.

That's a nice looking stack.

I use thisone to drive my Kef Reference 101's. With new T27's from Falcon Acoustics.
It has bt, line in and usb dac. Powered by an old IBM 'dogbone'.

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Neat. You ever mess with minidsp?

I'm a bit of an audio newfag here. I'm about to order a pair of KEF Q100s. Obviously I'll need something to power them but should I be looking at a receiver or an amp? I've got a Pioneer VSX 1017 receiver but I'd like to upgrade to something that has more than 2 HDMI ports. I'm mainly getting these speakers for my turntable so if an amp is a better option I don't mind keeping the speaker for my other stuff. I currently have a Schiit Mani pre-amp but a phono input would be a bonus.

Not looking to spend a ton but I want to get the most out of the speakers and turntable (Rega RP1 with performance pack).

>minidsp
For room correction? Not tried that yet.
I bought a dB meter and can now level match two pairs of speakers although I don't have identical amps.
I've collected a few 'budget classics' second hand speakers but they all wither when matched and compared with the Kefs.

Just got these in my studio lads. I tired them out last three days, and i think they sound great. I got them used, but they come with a really good warranty. Big step up from the Rokits. They'e playing really well with the KRK 12s sub too, which is nice. I wasn't sure how well that would work out.

Pretty happy so far

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This used to be my old setup, but some of the gear has changed around. You get the idea.

For sure get your speakers to ear level. If something sounds off, i'd rather blame your room than your speakers.

It's not a a bad idea to decouple your speakers from your desk, so you don't hear the the ratting and the coupling of the lows through the desk

Give AT LEAST a foot away from the speakers and the wall. Or try your best to do get distance

Make an equal triangle between the speakers and the listening position

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I'd always recommend a separate, dedicated amp. If you want it to sound good.

The amp should have roughly 25% more power than what your speakers require

Nice, I always wanted to hear those.

Well, I was looking for something in the 6.5" range. 5 was just too small. I think 8" isn't as good for the mids. I don't care about bass, i have a 12 inch studio sub. I was considering the new KRK V series 4. They've gotten really good reviews. As i was browsing though, they showed me this pair. I thought it would be worth it. The older Genelec stuff has better amps too. I think these will serve me well.

There is for sure a lot of high end definition. Everything is clear and crisp. I bass is tight, and smoothly works with the sub. I thought there was something slightly odd in the mids, and looking at the chart they have a slight 2-3 db dip at 1.5Khz. It's not a major thing though, and i'd blame the room more. They're not in an ideal position right now. I recently moved, waiting for my desk to come thru. Initial results are really good.

Are you going to tinker with EQ?

I ended up getting a great deal on a Denon AVR. My current one is over 10 years old and doesn't even carry audio over HDMI so it's probably worth the slight downgrade in sound quality.

Nice. I want to switch out my onkyo a-9030 for an avr

Mani's a good preamp. You're not gonna do better with the phono input on a receiver.

I will leave it alone for now, i want to hear the speaker as it is. Once i get my desk, i can have space for my interface, and then i'll have a bunch of options. I might add a bit of 1.5k, i'll have to hear it and see how it is

Check out returned (b-stock) AVRs, the Denon I got is regular price $800 CAD and I paid $230.
Fair enough. I've got a stack with a Modi and Vali so might as well keep it.

bump

Trying in this thread. I have a Pioneer PL-A35 turn table. Tried to lube it up, swapped out the belt, but it keeps slowing down and speeding up causing the sound to be awful. Anyone have any suggestions on what to possibly look at to try to fix this?

What's the most bass 2.0 setup I can get for under $150?

Just inherited a set of these Sansui SP-5000's from a family member.

Over the years it seems like one of the mids was pushed in and torn.

Is there a procedure for patching this? I plan on keeping them and replacing all of the capacitors inside.

thanks for your time.

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They make kits for fixing the speaker surround
a.co/cHyAx1Y

thanks user but its actually the cone that's damaged and not the surround. This speaker uses a type of cloth surround that doesn't degrade. I believe the cone is made of some type of paper material.

Balanced Audio Technology VK-200 200 watt per channel solid state amplifier

audioreview.com/cat/amplification/amplifiers/balanced-audio-

technology/vk-200/prd_115631_1583crx.aspx

powering Hales Revelation III 4 ohm Floor Standing Three-Way 10" woofer

speakers
stereophile.com/floorloudspeakers/118/index.html

over Acoustic Zen Hologram II 12' speaker cables .

stereolifemagazine.com/reviews/item/1025-acoustic-zen-matrix-

reference-ii-hologram-ii

Amp is powered via an Acoustic Zen Tsunami Plus power chord (Zero crystal

copper) audioasylum.com/reviews/Cable/Acoustic-

Zen/Tsunami/cables/44055.html

out of a PS Audio Duet component level. AC cleaning and protection unit

positive-feedback.com/Issue42/psaudio.htm
fed by an Oyaide Tunami 1.5 meter cable
vhaudio.com/tunami.html

terminated (by me) with Oyaide P/C 004 connectors which are Beryllium

Copper plated with polished Platinum and Palladium

vhaudio.com/oyaide-c-004.html

plugged into an Oyaide R1 AC duplex vhaudio.com/oyaide-r1.html

of the same metallurgy with an Oyaide wpc-z
billet Aluminum and Carbon Fiber wall plate.

vhaudio.com/oyaide-wpc-z.html

For the source I use a Resolution Audio Opus 21 CD Player with a 24/96 Digital

Input 6moons.com/audioreviews/resolution/opus21.html
This is a two piece unit with separate power supply and is connected with an

Umbilical from Ridge Street Audio; Exousias 999999 pure silver with gold

plated d sub compact copper terminations
This is powered over an Acoustic Zen Krakatoa Power Cable (Silver+zero crystal

Copper) 2 meters. audioasylum.com/reviews/Cable/Acoustic-

Zen/Krakatoa/cables/14/143646.html

It is feeding the BAT VK-200 over Acoustic Zen Silver Reference II xlr
Interconnects 1.5 meters.
stereophile.com/cables/765/index.html

cost new around $15,000

youtube.com/watch?v=X1Y4N3RCY9Q&t=10s

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Lovely. I don't enjoy listening on them but they are such a good tool. Now throw away those NS-10s

Are these the best sub $500 speakers for PC right now?
Also are we still trusting Z Reviews?

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superbestaudiofriends org, user

i calculate a discrete STFT of a timesignal and for each frequency band the mean and standard deviation. the standard deviation is constant across all frequency bands across all recordings (except those where the recorded sound changes over time) .
am i right in assuming that the microphone is the origin of it? i would guess, that it is the standard deviation of the selfnoise.
picture is one recordings with the black line being the mean and the grey ones mean+-2*sd.

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bump

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Why are you measuring into the hundreds and thousands of kilohertz?

he's a dolphin

Setup: Dunlavy sc-1 av into Pioneer A333

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How's the sound?

because i can, that's literally it.
the microphone has a range from 10Hz to 1MHz and im doing experiments with it searching for acoustic signals during a welding process.
finding them in high frequencies would be beneficial as there is much less noise in that area.

If its because you can, that's pretty cool. I doubt anyone would be able to answer your question but best of luck to you.

You need to get them a bit loud for their true sound, but they're great. Almost true-flat frequency response.

do you guys have a pastebin or sticky?
I have no fucking clue where to start with speakers and I'm a bit tired of headphones as there's no point in using them when you have privacy

>sticky
meant to say OP, sorry these headphones are restricting my heads blood flow

time to go to reddit

Are all dolby atmos height speakers supposed to point straight down? Or just directly at you?

Directed towards you

Cheers. It always looks like they are pointed straight down in the diagrams. They need better documentation on Dolby's website.

so Jow Forums.

finally got primeday jbl lsr305 in the mail arriving tommorow for 140€ the pair.

can't wait to tell my experience. owned a bunch of different stuff.

i'm the mission qx guy btw

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reddit.com/r/Zeos/

any links to good diy projects on the cheap for speakers?

sites.google.com/site/undefinition/diy

looks like a good deal for 150 bucks.

youtube.com/channel/UCOuow_HIYmeaIqi42zVs3qg/videos

youtube.com/channel/UCxtfOw_wJBqrYn0vsqmt0lA/videos

yeah i'm excited, recently tried the mackie cr4 and iloud micro monitors too. the ilouds are my favorite so far for nearfield

I'm waiting to get into my new house to buy some Ascend HTM-200SEs for an Atmos setup. Going to do 5.2.4 with M&K S-150s across the front and then the surrounds will be all Ascend. I'm months away from getting in there though.

surely makes up for an awesome cinema experience.

what do you pair your speakers with?
also what tv/beamer?

whats the difference with both of this? the r1280Db just has two more inputs compared to the other one (opt and coax) but what are the sound differences? also lets say id like to put this in a big living room, will they be loud enough for it?

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most likely no difference at all, just input options

I'm going to kind of piece it together. I'm blocking in a window and door so I have a nice wall to put everything on, since there is so much glass in my house.

Current plan is to get a Denon X4400 receiver m(accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/denavrx4400h/denon-avr-x4400h-9.2-ch-x-125-watts-networking-a/v-receiver-w/heos/1.html), which is stable to 4-ohms needed for the M&Ks. That might change if in the next three or four months of construction availability changes. I have a bunch of old amps if I need to use them, but I think that oughta do it. For subwoofers I have some Danley CS-30s which have a lot of output for movies but don't go very deep, I'll probably upgrade those in the future.

I have too much ambient light for a projector unfortunately, but I'm going to use my dads hand-me-down 1080p 75" Samsung LED, and then wait for better OLEDs at a better price. In the meantime I'll use an HDFury Linker to downres the UHD and 4k content while still maintaining Atmos (since those soundtracks only come with the 4k UHD versions).

>Those Schuko sockets
Bitte anonkrauts

>An desktop thread died for this.
This pleases me very much.
Just get the mods to increase the board pages if there really is that much gold being posted here.

Bluetooth = Botnet.

tfw only have chink clones

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They're pretty good, very noisy though - lots of hiss

Not sure how much i trust Mackie's low end stuff. I haven't heard it, so i can't really say.

I think the only Mackie's worth considering are the hr824

>behelec

lmafo

How do you find them?

If I can get a floorstander for cheaper than I can get new standmounts and a sub should I even bother with the standmounts/sub setup? All speakers are in the same line up so there shouldn't be any quality difference (wharfedale diamond 200 series)

If you get a dedicated sub with your speakers you'll be able to run your setup louder and your speakers will have less work to do, potentially even increasing the quality of the mids/highs.

The ideal placement of a speaker making subbass is different than that for directional sound from your midbass and up. A full range speaker is always compromised in the bass because the placement is never ideal. The wavelengths are so long it is much more coupled to the room. Often the best place for your subwoofers might be across different walls or behind you or whatever it may be. If you run a speaker full range you never get that great blended bass that a satelite-subwoofer setup provides.

Having some towers that play low is still great though, like said you can get more output but also when you do crossover you can use a shallower slope.

Anyone have any feedback over these edifiers?

amazon.com/Edifier-R1280T-Powered-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B016P9HJIA/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

How will you be using them? Assuming your budget is pretty much the equivalent of pesos?

Ha. Just looking for something under $100, I understand that the budget won't get anything spectacular.

Desktop PC or possibly for the TV instead of the onboard TV speakers or a sound bar.