/pcbg/ - PC Building General

>but you aren't going to hit 4.3 on all cores using the stock cooler.
you won't be able to boost that far with the stock cooler on the 2600x anyway. browsing through some forums the most common boost clocks on the 2600x are between 3.9-4.2 under different loads with the stock cooler. you're going to need a better cooler to keep at a consistent high boost clock and hardware unboxed actually mentioned this in their video

Ask for a replacement or chargeback?

I thought EVGA warranty was supposed to be good? Having to spend $20 to ship a broken product you JUST bought is really fucked.

I love how he changed the methodology here since his last test to give the 3Gb the advantage, while if you recreate his last test the 570 4Gb wins.
He has many games running at lower settings. RX570 handles higher settings better.

>ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/krvgP3
That's actually a nearly ideal build except that monitor does not seem worth $600 at all.

You need sub ambient cooling to pin Ryzen to 4.3GHz or higher completely stable, afaik.
You're better off using PBO and BCLK overclock.

how do you know it's the gpu? try using another gpu and see if the same thing happens.

>browsing through some forums the most common boost clocks on the 2600x are between 3.9-4.2
So if that's with the 2600x then the 2600 will be even lower. I don't see how this guy is getting 4.3 on a 2600 with the Stealth.

Personally I hit 4.2 across the board, but I've got a H240x from a previous build.

Everything except the monitor looks good.

This is the best monitor and I know many people, countless people who agree with me. There is no better monitor. Fake news. FAKE news.

It's a 1 year warranty and they'll send me a replacement card, they're just jewing me with the shipping apparently.

I tried taking the GPU out of my current system and it feels like it's stuck in there because it's been in there for 5 years.

>I love how he changed the methodology here since his last test to give the 3Gb the advantage,
The 3gb still has the advantage, one year on, with another dozen or so newer games added on top of the first crop of games he had one year ago.

>EVGA only offers refunds for products purchased directly from its official website EVGA.com if such products are returned within 14 days of purchase. Returns are subject to a 15% restocking fee if the product packaging has been opened, regardless of whether the product has been used or not.

They only charge you if you're returning it. RMAing it shouldn't cost you $20.

Is ram still overpriced?

Where can one buy these LGA 1151 6 core Xeons? Can't even find anything in google.

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It's the cost of shipping it to them

yeah this i rma'd a faulty evga card once and they send me a freepost label. all i had to pay for was a box to put the graphics card in so it didn't get ruined in transit

Are you returning it for a refund or RMA to get another?

just to add i'm in europe though so it might be different

Well in Mexico they will pay you the shipping, and im sure its the same in the US.

>That's actually a nearly ideal build except that monitor does not seem worth $600 at all.
Adaptive sync 4K IPS with low latency and among the best color calibration and accuracy on the market is not worth US$455 + tax? MSRP at release was US$600.
I could have shaved off about $60, but I decided to buy it from Amazon so I could return it easily. Looks like it was the right decision, as it arrived with a dust particle stuck inside.

Maybe all the mining niggers ruining cards and sending them back for replacement made them change their rules

Just RMAing to get another one

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>They charge you to ship them back a defective part regardless of when you purchased it
What the actual fuck.

i'm starting to give up on a good deal for monitors.

seems impossible to get a quality build monitor thats 1440p, 144hz, AND IPS. I already have a 60HZ 1080 IPS as my side-bitch monitor so im thinking of just settling for TN 1440p/144hz as my main slut.

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pcpartpicker.com/list/zg9KcY

any advice for my build? last time I built a pc was like 4 years ago.

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seems like this is common occurrence in america. msi apparently does the same

X470 motherboard.
Faster RAM.
Cheaper case?
A new PSU, never cheap out in your PSU, look for 600W Seasonic PSUs or EVGA Supernova series.

get ddr4-3000mhz and 16gb because 8gb isn't enough because of how bloated windows and games are now. you'll get stuttering with just 8gb.

i'd personally go for a 1060 but the 580 is probably fine

that evga power supply is garbage get a new one. you don't want a cheapo power supply failing on you and killing your components

pcgamer.com/prime-day-gaming-pc-build-2018
make sure to take advantage of those prime day (trademark) deals!!!

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I honestly was expecting better deals on GPUs. Even on Newegg there werent black friday level discounts.

Any of you guys ever get full tower cases? Do you find them exceptionally large?

Trying to decide between
newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147053
or get this mid tower which is probably the more efficient option (and then get another fan or 2)
newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119233&reviews=all

I have a HAF 922 which I'm going to assume is slightly bigger than the 912. I really love it but I don't think it was worth the extra $40 or so it was over a different PC in a medium sized case

The only real benefit was the cable management but everything already runs so cool that it didn't really matter

I really want a 1080p 144Hz or 120hz. What do you recommend? I live in Canada if that changes anything.

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Would a GTX 1080 ftw 8 gb sell for 604 USD?
Im trying to sell my graphics card because i don't play video games anymore

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popular 1080p 144hz monitors are

asus vg248qe
viewsonic xg3202 (and previous version of similar name)
samsung c24fg73 (fg70 series is a no-no because of shit VA ghosting issues the 73 series fixed)
benq xl2411(p)
aoc g2590px (this is supposed to have a really good TN panel)

all of these are TN panels aside from the samsung which is VA. the VA on the samsung provides way better colors and deeper colors. it's the only VA panel i'd recommend due to the overdrive settings it has. all the rest should still be good though. just get the cheapest one you can find imo unless the samsung is a really similar price to the cheapest one then get that instead.

Sell for the price of a 1070(ti?). Should get a byte or so

So like 446?
The bidding is currently sitting at 346 and no one's bitten yet

Neat, I'm leaning towards it so I wanted to see what others had to say. I had a cheap rosewill one before and the cable management was so awful that I figured all mid towers were this much trouble

oh yeah and acer xf240h - this is really cheap in europe but i don't know if the same is in canada

based and redteampilled

The BenQ one is the cheapest one I could find online at $300 CAD. Is G-Sync worth it? Seeing as I'm not even going to get close to 144fps in most games, would it be wise or retarded to invest more into a g-sync? I was looking at maybe this one

amazon.ca/Acer-Predator-XB241H-bmipr-1920x1080/dp/B01C05C1OK

depends how prone you are to noticing tearing. and when i say noticing i mean when fully immersed and not actively looking for it like some people do. there will be tearing but usually it's so minimal that you don't even notice it when in game. gsync is worth it if you are extremely prone to tearing but i wouldn't say it is if you're not. just get one of the monitors i suggested imo. the samsung is by far and away the best one there so that would be my recommendation if price wasn't an issue. if price is an issue then get the cheapest one.

t. been using nvidia + 144hz non gsync monitor for years with no issue or noticeable tearing above 60 fps

Thanks user. I'll just wait for a sale, I guess. I have my current monitor overclocked to 72hz and it gets the job done. I would like to try gaymen in games like Siege at 144hz, though.

What do you guys think about this build?
I'm mostly using it for CSGO, LoL, WoW Classic + recording, editing, compressing and uploading said games.

youtube.com/watch?v=x5QkuQdP6GY

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Shit and outdated.

Ryzen 2200g replaced the 1200.
Kingston SSDs are the worst in the market, get an ADATA SU800 if you have budget problems or don't get a SSD.
Get a WD Blue instead for the HDD.
Shitty PSU, the last part of a build you should cheap out on.

guys this is my first build. i got a mid size case and a fully modular psu. its a complete clusterfuck of cables, how do i make this fucking work

Move them to the rear part of the case.

When are the Zotac niggers gonna release the MA551???
If they don’t release it by September I’ll do a jihad on Gotham city.

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do i really need over 750w PSU for a i7 8700k/1080 build?

650 but 750W works too.

Which case
Probably this, lol.

Hey lads I'm running into a really weird problem.

I start my PC and all the fans come on, then the case fans turn off for about a second then start back up again. They stay on the entire time except for during the initial boot up when they power up and then power down.

Is this a cause for concern?

Seems completely bullshit within the first month. I'd just charge back.

>pcpartpicker.com/list/zg9KcY
The Armor model of cards is really bad. It's like OEM quality bad.
Did you miss the $245 Sapphire Nitro+ RX580 sale?
Still seems to be up on ebay with the code to me. Hurry and get it before it ends.

There were some pretty good GPU deals, though.

No, 650 is fine. CPU uses like 200w overclocked, and the GPU uses like 225-250w. So what do you think?

Oh those ASUS X470 Pro boards are $125 on sale as well.
amazon.com/ASUS-Prime-X470-Pro-Ryzen-Motherboard/dp/B07C57Q1XH/
Why the hell would you buy the X370 gaming board instead?

Don't get how people building PCs are often so oblivious to sales.

It'd be a random setting in bios making it fail to post the first time. Could be something like RAM timing or clock speed, or a random CPU overclocking setting.
>Is this a cause for concern?
Not really, just a nuisance taking probably around 10 seconds longer to visit each time. If you get sick of it, start going down the google rabbit hole searching overclocking and bios settings on your specific board.

It's posting and turning on just fine, it's just the fans turning off for a second then coming back on. They're running just fine except for the little hiccup when it starts.

It posts before/while the fans go out? Or after the fans go out and kick back it? If the former, it's probably just a quirk with your motherboard presuming your fans are plugged into that.

Why aren't you buying ECC RAM, /pcbg/?

pcpartpicker.com/list/CfDzkd

final build.

after all the deals, my total came out to around $1500 on the dot (incl. shipping) which puts me around $250-$300 in savings when you include the shipping on the list. also importing my own HDD so didn't have to buy that.

watcha think?

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I'm gonna be doing video editing? How much RAM will I need?

Yea. It starts and fins spin on and posts, fans then go off for a second then back up again and then Windows starts up without an issue.

256 GB

Drop the water cooling, get a NH-D15 instead.
Everything else looks good.

It's in the OP

Is there any reason why you (the buyer) wanted a water cooler in particular and why you (the user responding) advise him against it?

Watercooling sucks in general.
Its great when you have a small case (ITX, mATX) but not when you are using a ATX case.

Guys what's a good mid tower case? Decent airflow and quiet.

Do you mean that the effectiveness rises in relation to the compactness of the box, or just that it's more efficient in a large box to conventionally increase airflow?

Are there any good prices on 2x8 ram? Anything below $140 would be acceptable

Smaller cases have worse airflow, also they don't allow huge heatsinks, reason why liquid cooling is superior in such cases.

Meanwhile in ATX cases airflow is great(More if you add more fans for intake/exhaust), and can use big heatsinks without trouble.

I'm new to this aspect of pc building since my previous was prebuilt. What would you say is most important to least important from heatsinks, fans, and case space? I'd really like a quiet pc, my last one really tested my patience.

bought for aesthetics. i do understand that air cooling is cheaper/lasts longer, but my current AIO water cooler lasted ~5ish years which is more than enough for $40, no leaks same brand.

what does it look like?
It's not compromising on effectiveness then is it?

Heatsink>case space>fans
Buy an ATX case, use a good HSF, then put 120/140mm heatsinks or 200mm heatsinks.
You could use cheap Arctic ones, or Noctua if you don't care about price.
At the start the 2-3 fans your case comes with will be enough.

Noctua fans are quiet in general, even under full load, water pumps are loud and they go bad faster than a normal heatsink would.

>then put 120/140mm heatsinks or 200mm heatsinks.
then put 120/140mm or 200mm case fans*

Man i really need to sleep.

Pretty bad. You could have gotten a build with a $400 1440p 144hz monitor included for the same price if you didn't waste so much money on poor price:performance components.
Considering these are prices amid huge sales, amazingly terrible value.

That particular AIO is pretty terrible. There's a reason it's so cheap and goes on sale so often.
His bottleneck is also going to be the TIM of the CPU, anyway, without deliding.

Is it okay if i wipe the cpu with a tissue until there's no thermal paste left or is it necessary to use alcohol? Also what are other household substances that would clean a cpu from thermal paste?

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Buy isopropyl alcohol, its like $4 a bottle.
Use cotton to remove paste, yes you need the alcohol.

No you cant use rubbing alcohol.

Thanks.
A friend who's one of those people who always talks like he knows what he's talking about said the exact opposite, but what little knowledge of physics I have made me think the opposite.
Glad to hear it's exactly what I imagine: a big slab of metal sucking up all the heat, with a fan making sure the ideally spacious interior doesn't become a volcano.

Would you say any particular "form factor" issue for heatsinks, cases, and fans is something to look out for for beginners? There's more to it than just making sure they're in the same box, isn't there?

What is a good soundcard to replace a damaged onboard soundcard?
Nothing fancy, all i use are $15 Sony headphones anyway.

>Everyone slashing their prices to undercut Amazon meme day
>Shit I had stored in PCPricePicker got dropped a little bit
>ebay puts up a discount code the same day I decide to buy parts
I thought this sort of shit was only supposed to happen after you buy parts, not at the same time as. Couldn't have picked a better time to buy new parts. Only way I'll regret this purchase is if I wake up tomorrow and RAM prices have plummeted to $2/GB.

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Recommend me a laptop
>300-400$
>Big ol hard drive
>1080p screen
>alright specs
>not a chromebook

The only alcohol i can buy here is beer... Does acetone do the job?

No.
You can buy Isopropyl alcohol everywhere, where are you from that you have trouble finding a bottle?
Hardware stores, walmart, etc.

No man, get the isopropyl. It's good for other uses like cleaning and disinfectant.

is a 1080ti build still worth doing or should i wait for the 1100 series. i dont currently have a pc

also, is displayport preferable to hdmi for gaming?

Build a high end computer without a GPU, then wait.
Unless you go AMD, then you would need to buy a GPU to use it.

I'm looking for a >$50 Case any opinions on these? Or suggestions for others?

newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811353136&ignorebbr=1

newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811205031&ignorebbr=1

newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811854068&ignorebbr=1

I don't know if it's the right thing to do but I'm waiting. At least until the end of next month.
If nothing gets announced by then I'll bit the bullet on a 1080ti

Need help guys.
>$750 budget
>Gaming
>Case and monitor included in budget

I want to create and buy PC Master Race build.
And I have $16,000.
Which PC parts should I buy?
And no, I can't afford a car, because I am one-eyed epileptic.

It depends. If you're aiming for an 1180Ti, I would say wait. If you're going for an 1180, it would be a good choice if you can't be arsed to wait for an unknown number of months. If you're going for an 1170Ti or less, I would say wait because you would want to know that the 1080Ti could beat them, and you might get a good deal around the time of the changeover that would further justify getting the previous generation at full price less than a year before the new one.

Would anyone know anything about running a 7th gen Kaby Lake with Win7?

I've heard that there's a work around for microsofts fuckery trying to block updates, but idk if it will work