/pcbg/ - PC Building General

>recommendations with pros for each brand out of a duopoly
>shill
Do you know what that term even means? You can stick to the previous shill thread if you must

Continuing from last thread. Judge me on my (it now seems) poor choices.

It keeps shutting off whenever I try and play a game, works fine for normal use. What do i do?

Any suggestions?

Intel i7 8700

Gigabyte GTX 1070 G1 Gaming

Gigabyte Z370 Aorus Gaming 5

Corsair Water Cooling H60

2x8 GB HyperX Fury 2400 MHz

Corsair CX650M 80+ Bronze

SSD 240 Gb Kingston

HDD 2 Tb Seagate

Attached: 658.jpg (720x937, 74K)

Return the PSU and the SSD and HDDs(Low quality storage, get a SU800 and a 2TB WD Blue instead).

You need second GPU to test it.

Seasonic Focus Plus Platinum 750W
10 years warranty, superb build. Definitly worth the 100bucks price tag

Attached: 54912850_p0.jpg (637x900, 262K)

Great, thanks guys.

>with pros
Except you try to manipulate by shitting on intel afterowords
>for each brand
Only 8700k is mentioned. Meanwhile 8400 and 8600k btfos 2600x

Whats a good program to log cpu and gpu temps? it dneeds to be saving them in real time in case of crash.

MSI Afterburner overlay for real time ingame specs.
Hw Monitor if you just want cuttrent, minimum and Maximum temperature.

Get an H100 at least, 8700k's run hot

The RAM is an absolute joke in 2018 speed wise, 2400hz mhz RAM is like 2012 specs. You NEED at least 3000hz+

I would bump up to a 750 watt psu

i would go with a 500gb ssd

He is probably using the locked version and a NH-D15 would be a better idea.

And he is troubleshooting.
He also bought the worst SSD around.

Still absolutely shit build. Did you have fun wasting your money, was it worth?

Not him, but what are brands to steer clear of?

>shutting off

PSU is fucked or you're drawing too much power from it.

>Except you try to manipulate by shitting on intel afterowords
CPU bit didn't change from last thread genius. Do you even know what you're complaining about?
>Only 8700k is mentioned. Meanwhile 8400 and 8600k btfos 2600x
I agree the 8400 has its place as long as you're buying the cheapest B360 motherboard and nothing more expensive than 2666mhz RAM, otherwise the 2600X & B350/450 with higher speed RAM is better again. 8600K has absolutely no place in the market against 2600X or 8700/B360 if you're allergic to AMD, unless you're overly impressed with bragging rights about how your average bin unlocked i5 manages 5.0ghz whilst completely ignoring the dimishing FPS returns over the 8700's 4.6ghz. It's basically the Jow Forums equivalent of bench racing.

Kingston and PNY are the only ones that make bad SSDs in general.

ADATA makes good low end SSDs, they use a good controller and Intel, Micron or Intel+Micron NAND.
Samsung is the gold standard.
Crucial SSDs are good too.
Western digital high end (Mid and low end are just Sandisk rebrands).
Sandisk is good except their low end.

>and a NH-D15

I have one of these with an 8700K. Can confirm it keeps the temps under control even without delid and all cores at 4.7GHz. Make sure the case and the RAM will fit though, shit's massive.

Also Toshiba SSDs are good too, they no longer use shitty controllers (See early OCZ problems where SSDs got bricked for controller failure).

I having trouble figuring out what power supply is appropriate for this build. I did google searches, but the information is conflicting. I want something efficient and future proof, but nothing too excessive.
tldr how much buffer wattage should I have

pcpartpicker.com/list/2rZ7vn

Attached: f2fh92f.jpg (1000x664, 350K)

How important is dual channel?

Look for ADATA SU800.
ADATA 3000MHz RAM would be cheaper than your current RAM and better.
pcpartpicker.com/product/VC8j4D/adata-xpg-gammix-d10-8gb-2-x-4gb-ddr4-3000-memory-ax4u3000w4g16-dbg
EVGA 650GQ, EVGA 650 G3 or any Seasonic PSU at 600-700W.

Really important, without it your RAM runs at literally half the speed it is supposed to be running at.

750W should be plenty for anything with a single graphics card. Don't cheap out on it, go for a quality brand like Seasonic or Corsair.

>Corsair
Anyway, it depends which PSU exactly but in general Corsair rebrands from shitty brands, only a few models are from Seasonic or Great wall.
And 2-3 models from FSP.

pcpartpicker.com/list/pfRx29

its been a very long time since ive updated my shit
i have a 1060 already
opinions? very very early draft

650 should be plenty.
If you cash out a bit and buy a semi passive one, 750
Seasonic is the brand of choice and with their 10year warranty, currently the best long time investment.

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thank you guys. how to you determine the wattage usually? like double my calculate need or something? I'm trying to learn from the process. also, problem with the RAM is that i'm trying to get something on the Asrock QVL list and it is slim pickens. I know the ram seems like a silly choice

Get a I5-8600K or go AMD.
Avoid ASRock motherboards, check ASUS Z370-A.
Get 2x4GB RAM instead 1x8.
Do you really need a NVMe SSD? a SATA one is literally the same outside enterprise/server stuff, Example: youtube.com/watch?v=ecCA0gx_eZk
Get a 860 EVO instead of the same size and a 1-2TB WD Blue.

That poor R4E board. Some people shouldn't breed.
Anyway, yeah, 650w is great. 750w for a little overkill upgrade headroom. In general avoid Corsair CX-M PSUs like the plague.

Their top end models like the HX series are generally considered to be pretty good.

>afterowords
>manipulate by shitting on intel
It's not about the company it's about the product, the 8400 is fine but not recommended for CPU intensive games

Yeah because they come from Seasonic, Great wall or CWT, only high end PSU rebrands.
While they are good you are just paying extra for the brand name.

Honestly just stick to Samsung.
An 860 evo is going for around $240 for a 1TB model. At 24 cents per gig for a solid brand with excellent performance as well as endurance and a good warranty it's hardly overpriced.

thanks, what is your rule of thumb for determining this? (the wattage selection)

maximum usage of your parts + a little room upwards.

I assume gaming? If you're even close into rendering/other workloads, i'd recommend 2600(x).

>thank you guys. how to you determine the wattage usually? like double my calculate need or something?
Just get between 40-60% of your current max wattage, you have to leave room because energy consumption increases exponentially if you ever overclock and its not a good idea to force your PSU.

I'd avoid the Pro4 and that SSD, consider a B350M Mortar or a Tuf B350M-Plus, a MX500 or a SX6000 and the kit the other user suggested

>you are just paying extra for the brand name

There's not much in it between the two brands in my country. Either is fine.

Coolermaster has a good online tool on their website for determining PSU requirements.

I built a new computer and I want to return the RAM and put in new RAM, will there be problems? Or can I swap it out like I can with GPUs?

>PNY
>bad
You don't know what you're talking about.

With the other brands you don't need to do research about where the PSU comes from.
realhardtechx.com/index_archivos/PSUReviewDatabase.html

okay g im overclocking the 2200g on a msi mortar and the vsocs are getting hot. 3 days ago or so i was being helped by a guy who helped me deal with my first build and now im back here to get help again. i need help on finding the right heatsinks for my vrm vsocs (not sure name), will this work: amazon.com/Easycargo-Raspberry-Heatsink-Aluminum-conductive/dp/B07217N5LS/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1532304184&sr=8-10&keywords=vrm heatsink ? if not than which ones can i use? and if they do work, what do i have to do to avoid my heatsinks to chort the vrms? do i need to cut the conductive adicive tape for every square? and yes ill have a fan blowing air into them just to keep it cooler

Attached: needvrmheatsinkforapuoverclocking2200gp.png (1500x1443, 1.75M)

>not recommended for CPU intensive games
Stop with this meme already im tired of proving you wrong

>bought a $2200 PC build
>been waiting 3 weeks to put it together bits at a time because I don't know what the fuck I'm doing

Please stop baiting in a thread with somewhat clueless people.

That's what you get for buying MSI.

Attached: 55076344_p0.jpg (637x900, 243K)

You should be at a bare minimum checking a reliable source like Anandtech before purchasing regardless.

>Removes DRAM cache in some SSDs
>Cheapest Phison controller
>Good

CS1311 is decent for a low end SSD though.

Will they do something? Yes.
Will they fix the problem? No.
Use thermal pads.

I don't need to overclock right? It's just for graphics? I've played on potato's for my whole life, if that's it I'll keep it simple

A heatsink is a heatsink. If it fits and it's secured properly, it will dissipate heat. Just be sure to measure everything carefully first.

great, brand hate. sorry but i didnt know much. they really arent that hot but id likike to keep them cool.
thermal pads? what do you mean?

Yes and no.
If you want your build to be good for 5-8 years yes, then no.

See people using their I5-2500k, i5-3570 and I5-4690k after years.

how would i go securing them?

MSI has great VRM design, but their BIOS...

A thermal pad.

Attached: thermal-pad-pad-termicos-10cmx2cm-05mm-20mm-de-espesor-D_NQ_NP_837405-MEC20862471775_082016-F.jpg (645x484, 85K)

Using thermal tape like the pads that come with the ones you linked to.

What temp should my computer be at normally? Asking because my last one was at 115f pretty much it's whole life. That's what you get when you make a laptop impossible to open up and clean...

What type of computer and which part of the computer?

Less of brand hate as it's know that the AM4 motherboards were a mess on release, on which Asrock and Asus were the only ones going out decent.
But hey the real reason you probably bought it yourself was probably just that it was the cheapest anyway..

>A solid block
>great design
see

Attached: 55829827_p0.jpg (637x900, 199K)

1080p = 108.0f
1440p = 144.0f

just google next time

CPU and all it's got on it is Dell. It's years old no clue what it is anymore.

Those Gigabyte G1 cards are loud and annoying.
2400MHz RAM is too slow. You'd get better performance for cheaper just getting a 2600X with fast memory. If you're getting an expensive CPU, you should have expensive memory, unless it's say Threadripper and not gaming and you need ECC instead.
H60 is a shitty cooler.
CXM are shit. Get at least TXM if you're getting Corsair.

>pcpartpicker.com/list/M6WvbX
Didn't you want a "value" build? Just get a 1TB MX500 for what you're spending on those 2 250gb+250gb drives what the fuck.
That is really expensive for a 1070Ti. I thought they were down to close to $400?

And you still have a shitty monitor that costs as much as a 144hz 1440p Freesync one. I don't know why you're cucking yourself into an expensive 1080p TN monitor when you can get an IPS and have Freesync for slightly more.

But yes, that's at least a lot better than your original build.

The bigger problem is actually the display/multimedia.
If not for those being so large, it'd be pretty feasible to at least put 2 or 3 CUs on the other CPUs.

But yeah, the 2700X is actually around the size of an i3, iirc. AMD has far, far worse margins on the 2200G and 2400G.

Powercolor are also good if you don't get the low end models. The Red Devil are good.

No, they aren't. Those issues with Nvidia cards aren't
>insignificant
compared to using not even an extra lightbulb of power. You're delusional.

do i just apply them on top of this things circled in green and put a heatsink on top? will that short anything tho? or does the thermal tape isolate it?

Attached: 22414659_511224289270335_16J14313445_n - CoOpLy.png (112x112, 18K)

>will that short anything tho? or does the thermal tape isolate it?

I've never seen electrically conductive thermal tape. But you can easily test it with a multimeter if you're concerned about it.

>if you're getting an expsneive CPU, you should have expensive memory

technically all memory is expensive at present relative to a few years ago.

They are not conductive.
The cooper will be though so be careful.

That's not helpful. Different components have different temperature tolerances. It depends what parts of the computer are getting hot.

yeah i researched it seems that they arent conductive (thermal pads in genereal, not the ones i linked)

yes cus it was cheap.

i dont think ill be using the copper, i dont need it right, just the aluminum ones to sit on top of the vsocs

>do i just apply them on top of this things circled in green and put a heatsink on top?

Yes. Just follow the instructions provided for the Raspberry Pi.

thank u and other here in the thread. now im more informed and will see what to do. also anyone in this thread/coming in, any experience with msi mortar? for some reason when the pc turns on it takes about 1-3 mins for it to connect to ethernet and no its not that my internet sucks.

Which is another point:
>If you're already spending $170 on memory, spending the same or ~$40 more for faster or b-die isn't that much.
B-die is only $200 at the moment and 2600X is on sale.

Whatever. I fixed that guy's build.
pcpartpicker.com/list/64FL4q
Assuming he already has the PSU, because that is not a good choice.
That's a solid build, besides the PSU and case, for 1440p gaming in the 60-144fps range depending on the game and settings.

Monitor is often on sale for $300-$350 if you can wait to buy it. It's the same panel as some $600-$700 Gsync monitors. Their BIOS is still better than Gigabyte's, in my experience. Maybe things have changed in the past year? I actually spent an MSI board I had back, so I don't know anymore. I just have ASUS and ASRock boards anymore except for my old board for my i5-2500k.

...

the bios is retarded cus its aimed to gamers and just awfully ugly and gross. gigabytes bios looks cleaner tho now on features i really cant say much but the msi one is simply to use even tho it looks retarded. im this person dealing with heatsinks on a msi mortar so my opinion is valid

>cheap SDDs have worse components than higher priced ones
Call the press.

>clueless people
>does brand hate
Put on your tripname already, faggot.

>tfw stuck with 4GB of ram
Should i just get a new mobo for $50 and get an i7 2600

Check ebay if you're just after some older type of RAM. Might be dirt cheap.

>VRM is a solid block of aluminium and not the circuitry below it
Leave.

Yeah the BIOS looks retarded. I hate navigating it. But it seems to be more functional than Gigabyte's by far. At least as of last year.

Can your board not support a 3770 with a BIOS update? I wouldn't get anything less than a 3770 at this point. 2600 has significantly lower IPC and uses more power. Ideally nothing less than a 4790, though.
You're going to pay more in electricity than you think you're saving by being that poor.

Thoughts on the EVGA 650GD?

Not looking to know if it's enough on my build or anything, just want to know if the product itself is decent. Tried googling evga 650GD vs evga 650GQ but there doesn't seem to be any comparisons.

Building a new system and need to get a new windows license.

I know 7 only has a few years of support left, but is there any other reason practical reason to get 10?
I use it at work and it's usable, but there's a ton of useless apps and features that id rather not have to mess with if I don't have to

Do not consider 7. It's, as you said, EoL soon.
If you really don't want to use Win10 or Linux, then iirc the enterprise version of Windows 8.1 is more like Windows7 and your 3rd best choice.

You might as well use a Linux clone at that point. I mean really what's the difference. Other then no bot net.

WIAT

Hope may be illegal but false hope is ok

>1TB SSD costs 3x more then any computer I've ever owned
Do these actually sell to people and not companies? Do companies even use these?

looking for the smallest atx case... anyone recomend anything?

Phanteks P300, Corsair 400C/400Q
As an added bonus either will just fit eATX

You are supposed to buy a 250GB one.
Companies buy 80% of the SSD supply but in MLC or SLC NAND which is more expensive.

thxs. will it hold a std. thermatake ps?

Is the Noctua D15 worth double the money of a Hyper 212X?
$50 vs 115 (Paired with 4770k)

Yes, huge temperature difference.
The heatsink alone without the fans is enough to cool a I5-4770k at stock speeds.

could it cool a i8700k at stock as an upgrade?