/pcbg/ - PC Building General

1.78 times as many pixels per frame
depends on the game and the GPU but you'll lose a lot no matter what

1156 isn't quite dead yet, and you can get a Xeon X3440 (basically a binned overclockable 860 i7) off Ali Express for under $25.
aliexpress.com/premium/x3440.html?d=y&blanktest=0&origin=y&SearchText=x3440&tc=ppc&initiative_id=SB_20180802134440&isViewCP=y&catId=0
Yes, IPC isn't as good as the Sandy Bridge that replaced it, but it's still a competent enough modern gaming platform.

Anyone have experience with this?

newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820313712

What do I buy if I don't play vidya and need a PC for music production?

Heh, I also have an old Netvista lying around. How easily could I recycle the shell? Is everything inside standard ATX?

buy cheapest ryzen processor and anything else basically
dont even need a decent gpu a 1050 will serve you fine

>make a 1440p build bro, it's the best of both worlds

kitguru.net/peripherals/monitors/ryan-burgess/source-claims-some-1440p-monitors-are-using-downscaled-4k-panels/

Don't bother with a strong GPU: get something silent instead. Get some RAM you'll need it, and a good multi-+core processor like a Ryzen will serve you well.

(Me)
Also, a wide screen will be nice to have the most info possible on screen. Dual screen is fine too, but since wider screens do exist...

>overclocking.guide/gigabyte-z370-overclocking-coffee-lake/
>followed guide mostly
>Gigabyte Z370P D3, 8086k, Noctua NH D15
>NOT delidded
>xmp is turned on
>LLC is set to high (options were regular, high, turbo I believe)
>1.29V (pretty sure this is stock)
>x47 core ratio (overclocked from the stock x40)
>x47 UNcore ratio (stock - doesn't this seem kind of high?)
>my room is ~27C ambient
>low 40s when CPU is idle, mid to high 70s max under load for regular usage
>hits 100C and throttles under literally any benchmarking tool, P95, realbench, cinebench, etc
I used to have a hyper 212 evo on it but it was too hot so I recently swapped to a noctua nh d15. The temperatures DID go down, so I don't think I messed up the installation or anything. This leads me to believe my settings are bad, because I've read that people get much better results. Is this actually normal, and everyone but me delids?

I have a question about CPU fans:
do I need one if I don't plan on overclocking?

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Any of the ultrasharps should do great for him eh

>newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820313712
Not that exact kit, but I'm using their 3600 CL18 B-Die in a Ryzen build. Does what it says on the box.

yes you do, always get an aftermarket cpu cooler, at bare minimum get the hyper 212, the bundled coolers are always shittier. You don't want your cpu temps soaring when you're gayming
that CM cooler is riced get a dark rock pro 4, it's great.

2400G so no need for gpu

No not really. Ryzen fans especially are very competent.

>pcpartpicker.com/
would this build be good for my parents?
They honestly only use it for internet browsing, photos, and microsoft office.

pcpartpicker.com/list/XMRyq4

>yes you do, always get an aftermarket cpu cooler
What's wrong with the Wraith coolers that come with Ryzen?

is the i5 8600K a good choice for a purely gaming build?

Depends of the resolution. If you plan to play at high resolutions then it's pointless as you're better off investing on more GPU power. If you plan to play at 1080p but like with a 144Hz panel, might as well splurge on a 8700K, delid it and put some stupidly expensive cooler on it.

8600k is a bad choice for anything. Either drop down and get the 8400 (if you *must* have intel) get the 8700k or get the 2600/x.

pozzed pieces of crap just like their processors
jk but seriously look at it and compare it with the dark rock pro or nhd15
shut the fuck up and buy an aftermarket cooler

Attached: amd_ryzen_wraith.jpg (730x411, 51K)

>compare it to a $80 cooler
If he's not overclocking those cards will run perfectly fine run at normal temps (65-75 at load). Why would you suggest getting something like that for someone who's not pushing the CPU?

I've only ever used intel stock coolers and they've worked fine other than being irritatingly loud, even at low rpms.

>Is this actually normal, and everyone but me delids
Basically yeah. The TIM under the IHS will be the temp conducting bottleneck with a D15. Still sounds kinda hot, especially seeing your voltage is far from unreasonable and the rest of your settings seam normal, but my next step would be to delid. Plenty of sourced cite up to a 20°C improvement.

no. Either drop down to an 8400, or up it to an 8700k if you wanna stay Intel. Otherwise, the R5 2600X rules that domain.

The Wraith Max is a good cooler, but the Stealth and Spire (spire just being a Stealth with a little more mass) are really just the bare minimum to get the stock or very mildly overclocked CPU running. If user's not overclocking, stock will be fine.
If not temps, an aftermarket cooler also has the ability to control hey with a lot more silence.

Thanks for the reply.
I'm actually okay with this speed / temperature, but I've just seen people get much better results so I was wondering. I didn't think I'd hit throttling temps on stock voltage even with a pretty decent cooler like the D15. If my settings seem fine, then there doesn't seem to be much more I can do.
Delidding is too scary for me, so I'll just leave it as is I guess

I want to 1080p/60 with rx580 and pair it up eith r5 2600 for future-proofing. Is there merit to my logic or am I retarded

Future proofing is a meme unless you're getting the highest end parts. You're getting what's required currently for 1080p/60fps. You'll probably be fine for another year or two at most. 2600 will be fine for longer than that due to the threads, but if you're on AM4 platform you can look for Ryzen 3 when it comes out.

Shit mobo. If you have paired that with shit PSU your voltage will ripple like the tsunami hit Fukushima.

My whole idea of future-prooing here is that 2600 will still be up to the task in, let's say, 2022 when I upgrade the GPU. And just hope that I can run CP2077 respectably if it comes out before then.

Your thoughts on NZXT H200i? Will it keep a 1600 and GTX 1050 cool?

I always thought that the differences between mobos were just extra features, if you weren't going for a very extreme OC. Is that not true?

Actually, this.
>overclocking a Coffeelake i7 with a 4 phase VRM

I honestly don't see the 580 lasting another 4 years. It's already at least 2 years old.

Get the H200. Well built case and good value. The H200i on the other hand is very bad value.

Well wil either of them keep a 2600 and a GPU cool?

Yeah that was my creeping suspicion. I think I'll wait for Q1/2 2019

No, that's not true. VRMs vary between models and can make a significant difference. You chose a high end CPU with a low end motherboard.

VRM and PSU are a crucial part.
You basically bought a V8 engine (8086K) and put it in a rusty Fiat Panda chassy.
Can you figure that this may not be optimal?

This. Buy expensive parts, Goym. I'm totally not getting paid to shill btw.

I didn't even know about "VRMs" at all before this, thanks for the info. I never heard of this term back when I was more into computers and built my last one 5+ years ago, and I didn't do much research when upgrading this time around. Unfortunate, but at least I know the issue now. Oh well
[spoiler]Also I don't understand that car reference at all, but I get your point [/spoiler]

If I wanted to use a 1990s case what would be the best option? What cases are easily modded to fit modern boards? A custom case that looks vintage would also be acceptable and would have better airflow anyway.

Do I need to buy a fan with a 1080ti and 8700K if I don't plan to overclock?

Is there any point to buying the 8700k vs. the 8700 if you're not planning to overclock?

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>What cases are easily modded to fit modern boards?
Define easily. Do you have to tools to cut (and possibly weld) metal?

Yes. They flow reasonably well. Just the "i" version adds some trivial shit for a largish price margin.

It means of you want to use an expensive high end CPU you should pair it with adequate parts because otherwise those parts will limit the performance.
You don't need to buy the most expensive shit like Asus Apex boards or Seasonic Titan PSU, but some nice true 6 phase or 4to8 doubled phase with a nice gold PSU like EVGA G3 are what you want.
For best OC you also want to delid because that chinese cum Intel calls TIM has thermal properties of Nutella.

You will need a $20-30 cooler for the i7 even if you dont plan oc'ing because stock ones are shit
8700k has a little higher boost clocks but you should get the 8700 if you dont oc

I have free access to a shop to cut and weld metal. Would prefer not to but have accepted this at this. Posting here to see if any cases don't require this.

5 years ago it may not have been as imperative, as the consumer Intel boards only supported reasonably power efficient 4 core CPUs max, with the more power hungry >6 core CPUs on the X79 motherboards that typically all had beefy VRM, so back then voltage regulation wasn't really a concern unless going ridiculous with say LN2 overclocking. These days Intel is pushing boundaries with their consumer boards with 6 cores capable of up to and sometimes beyond 5.3ghz without overly exotic cooling. Manufacturers are still making similar cost cut boards, just the power requirements on flagship CPUs are suddenly a lot greater.

Aside from the smaller form factor, what advantages do 2.5 in HDDs have when compared to traditional 3.5in HDDs?

Attached: SmallHDD.jpg (569x569, 49K)

>without overly exotic cooling
>water chilling intensifies
>what advantages do 2.5 in HDDs have when compared to traditional 3.5in HDDs?
None. Actually aren't most 2.5" HDDS slower and rated at 5400rpm instead of 7200?

Ah, thanks for confirming that I didn't just suck at researching back then as well.

Also, as an update , I dropped my LLC setting to 'regular' from high and my temperatures dropped about 10C during benchmarks (I peak at low 90s, and don't throttle anymore)

What are some good budget ITX boards for AM4? Is Asrock Fatality decent?

No
Less power usage

This Saturday, I'll be getting a case for my PC and hopefully by then it should be built. Since this is the first time actually owning a legit gaming PC, what are the first things I should do and some tips I need to know to make the best out of it?

My current build is a Ryzen 1600 and RX580. I wanna upgrade to an Nvidia card to play Resident Evil 2 remake and lots of Dolphin and PCSX2. What's the best bang for my buck?

>Nvidia
>bang for the buck
pick one.

Nvidia

Is Ryzen 5 1600 a good purchase at $140?

no bang for the buck for you then. Open your wallet wider.

yes

If it's an 8gb model you already have a good bang for your buck gpu depending on how much you paid for it. I wouldn't buy beyond rx 580 8gb/1060 6gb right now unless you absolutely need something better and can't wait.

For gaming, I'd still spend the extra $30 and get a 2600. Better IPC makes for better gaming performance

Okay, so then which one would you recommend?

Depends on game. It'll hurt deffered rendered games more, especially with AA on and higher settings.

But the thing is, those renderers tend to look better at higher resolution and lower settings.

>Is there any point to buying the 8700k vs. the 8700 if you're not planning to overclock?
Not really. It's only like a 100MHz difference on the 4 core boost.

The "future proofing" will be more the platform, and how it's easy to swap in a newer CPU on AM4. Just Update BIOS, take off cooler, remove old thermal paste, and put new CPU. Instead of new boarding and replacing PSU etc.
Newer CPUs are going to be better over the years, simple as that, especially now that AMD and Intel are competing again.
I'd get the 2600X though. Comes with a better cooler and you get an easy performance uplift just from enabling PBO in BIOS.

For gaming, I would get 2000 series.
You'll be fine for 60fps in AAA games, but indie games tend to be more memory intensive and it can struggle a bit there, especially without fast RAM.

Less power usage, and generally quieter since they have smaller plates to move around.
Also 2.5" might not sound much smaller than 3.5", but you can fit 4 2.5" drives in the space of a 3.5" bay. They are much, much smaller.
And a lot of cases now days don't have much for 3.5" mounting options. 2.5" HDDs are the same size as the little 2.5" SSDs, which modern cases are typically more geared toward.

There are more upsides than downsides.
The only downsides are the lower capacity (but you can still get 3-8Gb 2.5" drives"), and that the cost is a bit higher.

What mobo chipset for the 2600x should I be looking at? Is X470 really my only option?

Is this a shit build?

pcpartpicker.com/list/Gzkyq4

Not that anyone really cares, but I was the guy from last thread
I just needed to take out the ram and put it back in. Now I'm just having trouble getting this stupid OURLINK Wireless USB adapter to work. Why would you need to have the internet connected in order to download drivers for your internet. That's so stupid. Ah well.

Anyway, thanks for your help guys

Attached: Flintstone.jpg (928x780, 230K)

I'd recommend what this user said

Not bad, but I'd definitely be aiming for a 2600 over the 1600.
A 1060 6gb would be nice, but I understand it's not easy finding another $100. Might be worth going for an XFX 4gb RX580? Otherwise solid build.

No. Most B450s are more than adequate for a 6 core R5 Ryzen.

desk has like 1cm too little clearance, otherwise this bad boi would be under it.
went to microcenter today with some birthday cash, had my heart set on a thermaltake p5.
probably the most fun case i've built in, just because you have to assemble it yourself lol. the glass is scratched, but whatever.

pcpartpicker.com/user/CwalkPinoy/saved/xjywrH

only issue is now my computer will freeze and the monitor will turn off for a sec and refresh. not sure why yet.

Attached: IMG_20180802_201455.jpg (4640x3480, 2.47M)

how much can I oc my 2700 with the stock cooler?

is there anything I should know before I swap out my old PSU for the new one? Are there parts I should take out?

I'd love to do a custom loop in a P1 or P3, but the P5 is just way too big in my opinion. Curious though, why did you go a P5 over the P3? The P3 still would've been big enough to house what you've got.

>buy cheapest ryzen processor

Horrendous advice. Music production on a professional scale is going to be VST plugs out the ass which chew processors to death if you're getting realtime playback.

i asked for a p3 but the lady couldn't find it so i said fuck it i'll take the bigger feet. yeah it's a fuckin monster. way way bigger than my enthoo pro m.

also i fixed the gpu thing by rebooting. works fine now. i think it was just a thing with the pcie riser cable, which makes this single fan evga 1060 look embarrassing XD

I don't know what gave you that idea.
A decent b450 board like the Pro4, Mortar, or Tomahawk are all fine at overclocking on a 2600X even in a passive airflow scenario.
They'll OC a 2700X alright too

>falling for the huge case meme

Try it and see. How would we know? It's your silicon.

>pcpartpicker.com/list/Gzkyq4
Not an awful build except for paying $175 for a low end model of 1050Ti.
You can get a >50% more powerful card for only 25% more money. I don't get how that's not a no-brainer and why people constantly pick out $175 1050Tis.
>pcpartpicker.com/product/Yybkcf/xfx-radeon-rx-580-4gb-gts-xxx-edition-video-card-rx-580p4dfd6

That wifi has terrible reviews.

Your $70 case is almost 10% of your build cost. You can get the Coolermaster Q300L for $40.

>i asked for a p3 but the lady couldn't find it so i said fuck it i'll take the bigger feet
Ah, makes sense. You'll have to upgrade to an HEDT eATX motherboard and 480mm radiator to fill it.

i wanted a 360mm rad and a single hard drive, so my options were very very limited. seemed like a good deal.
plus i saw the diy nature of the case and just HAD to have it. it looks beautiful lol.
why bother lol. it looks good as is. no clc is technically compatible with the p5 but you just mount one side and it works fine.

Should I get pic related or the NH-D15 for my Ryzen 5? I'm planning on overclocking to 4.0 or possibly higher

Attached: be_quiet_bk022_dark_rock_pro_4_1396144.jpg (1500x1500, 263K)

Dunno why anyone goes for 360 over a thick 280, except for being a ricer and/or to have louder fans to drown out the pump noise, but alright.

I'm planning on upgrading my fx 8350 to a ryzen chip. Do I have to reinstall widows and do any of that kind of shit or can I get away with not doing so?

both will be plenty for ryzen 5, personally id get the dark rock for aesthetics but its up to you

yes you will need to reinstall. If you have an oem windows youll need to get another key to activate but you can get them for like $10 on ebay/kinguin etc.

yeah i was considering 280 but the guy at microcenter said the evga 280 had short tubes. in reality the thermaltake also had short tubes and wouldnt fit without some creativity, so i was fucked either way.
it was a long train of thought that got me here but my heart was set on a clc and a p3/p5. the 360mm looked sexier in a p5 though.
both will work fine. i was debating either of those because theyre like top of the line good.
i'd recommend it. it'll save you a lot of hassle.

changing your processor doesn't change what's on your hard drive i.e. your windows install. nothing will happen if you have a legit windows install anyway. if you're using a oem windows activation code it could say your windows isn't activated because oem codes are tied to your motherboard but you can just buy another one or use one of the many work arounds. you won't have to re-install windows and don't listen to anyone who says you do.

drivers my boi
motherboard has like 50 different drivers on a windows install that will change with a new board.

you do realize there are many utilities which uninstall these for you, right? you think all these big techtubers who use one windows install on the 10 new pc's they build and test every day re-installs windows every time? they just run a driver removal utility and it removes all the old drivers and they can install or let windows automatically install the new ones.