/pcbg/ - PC Building General

>Create a part list
pcpartpicker.com/
>Learn how to build a PC
Search youtube for a build guide for your socket

Want help?
>State the budget & CURRENCY for your build
>List your uses; eg Gaming, Video Editing, VM Work
>For monitors, include purpose (eg photo editing, gaming) and graphics card pairing (if applicable)
>Don't use Speccy. Use HWinfo, SIV, etc.

CPUs
>R3 2200G - Bare minimum gaming(dGPU optional)
>R5 2400G - Consider IF on sale
>R5 2600/X - Good gaming & multithreaded work use CPUs
>i7-8700K - Best for 1080p gaming, but most expensive when factoring in delid, cooling, etc.
>R7 2700/X - Best high-end gaming/mixed usage on a non-HEDT platform
>Threadripper/Used Xeon - HEDT

Motherboards
>For Intel, only Z300 series boards can utilize fast memory

RAM
>8GB - Enough for most gaming use
>16GB - Standard for heavy use
>32GB - If you have to ask, you don't need this
>CPUs benefit from fast RAM; 2933MHz+ is ideal

Graphics cards
>Avoid cheap models ie MSI Armor (Mk2 is ok), Gigabyte G1/Wf, ASUS duals, and others which have small heatsinks and low quality fans
>Only consider AMD GPU if you plan on getting an upcoming HDR monitor
1080p
>RX 570/580 /w Freesync or 1060 6GB are standard 1080p 60fps+ options
>1050Ti or RX560 for lower settings, or older games
>GTX 1070Ti/Vega 56 if seeking higher fps & you have a CPU+monitor to match
1440p
>Vega 56 /w Freesync, 1070Ti if you already have Gsync
>GTX 1080Ti if seeking higher fps & you have a CPU+monitor to match
2160p(4K)
>Titan V or upscale from 1440-1800p
OpenCL work
>Vega 64

Storage
>Backup before using StoreMi
>Consider getting a larger SSD (better GB/$) instead of small SSD & large HDD
>2TB HDDs are barely more $ than 1TB
>M.2 is a form factor, NOT a performance standard

Monitors
>Consider 75hz minimum; 60hz are mostly old models.
>Always consider FreeSync with AMD cards
>___sync is important for slower response time monitors (IPS)
>PLAN YOUR BUILD AROUND YOUR MONITOR IF GAMING

Previous: >

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Other urls found in this thread:

amazon.com/gp/product/B071QX74F9/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AHG2MI785YUY7
pastebin.com/TUZvnmy1
pcpartpicker.com/list/rThzhy
twitter.com/NSFWRedditVideo

Building a PC now is retarded
/Thread

IT WAS 275 YESTERDAY REEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE

amazon.com/gp/product/B071QX74F9/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AHG2MI785YUY7

pastebin.com/TUZvnmy1
Everyday until you like it
This was removed from the OP by a buttmad namefag.
Win7 works fine on ryzen and ryzen+. There are no issues and AMD had the chipset published themselves.
If you want to run windows 7, it's quite easy and stable.
>muh eol
fuck off, shill

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Is there a certain quality brand I should look for when buying HDD and SDD? I don't want to end up with HDD that end up dying shortly.

>still trying to assemble that PC from yesterday
Holy shit.

You need 2 power cables for the motherboard.
1 sata and 1 power cable for each SSD/HDD.
1 or 2 power cables for the graphics card.
Plug CPU/case fans into the motherboard.
Plug whatever your case has (power button, audio, usb etc) into the motherboard.

That's it. It's not that hard. And I don't even know what PERIF means.

you can install it, see the pastebin in this thread

+1
And will be the next 2-3 years

How shit is the R5 2400G gpu for games?

Not a heavy gamer mostly work, but I play every now and then.

HGST is generally regarded well as far as quality, but are quite expensive comparitively. If you're looking for a decent price to performance toshiba is ok but their RMA process is trash. WD makes decent drives but you're paying for brand most of the time (they are cheaper than HGST, but they own HGST now and are in the process of working their tooling into regular WD production). Seagate is still trying to recover their reputation after years of shitty drives and are supposedly a bit safer than they used to be, but it's your data.
As for SSDs, you have to know what you're buying as fra as NAND layers and controllers. For instance, the samsung 860 evo is cheaper than the older 850 evo because it has more layers per nand chip, and thus is cheaper to produce despite better performance. Crucial makes good drives for decent prices, avoid random brands. You don't need an NVME SSD unless you're scrubbing 8k video timelines. As a desktop user you won't notice that 1 second lower load time in your vidya.

This shit really needs to be in a pastebin in the OP.

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I think I'm nearly done.

However, there's three cords I don't see anywhere in the manual and I've plugged/screwed most everything in except the graphics card.

The manuals (aside from the motherboard manual) are all more or less useless.
I'll post some pictures of the cords.

Also I removed the PERIF (peripheral) cable from the PS.

What games?

>the manuals are useless
can you not read?
if the three cords are case headers then you need to read which case headers go where from the FUCKING MANUAL.
Take a fucking pic of the cords.

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Did I screw up buying a 1080? I got it for $450

Doesn't the GPU get hot inside that case?
There are no side vents for it so suck (heh) air from.
Also what case is that?

These two bigger ones run into the corsair fan/RGB light thing that came with the case.

I already have my SSD connected so I'm not sure why it says SATA.

One more pic of a cord that came with the case incoming.

Case is a Obsidian 500D.

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Not sure user. Just looking for a general reference. I still play battlefield bad company 2 lol.

Sometimes I play assasin creed or pro evolution soccer. But I could get a console for them.

This guy also came with the case.

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>Help a guy buy 2200g system
>He doesn't have windows on a USB drive
>Refuses to finish up his PC before he gets windows because the PC is nothing without windows he said
>Finally after weeks gets windows on a usb drive
>Now we can finish the pc!
>It won't even power up
>After fucking ages of trouble shooting it turns out he didn't fully connect the 24 pin and CPU power cable because he thought "they were supposed to be loose" as opposed to EVERYTHING else
>Now it finally starts up, but it turns out his dopehead friend didn't put windows properly on his usb drive so i have to help him through rufus
>Send him videos on how to get the w10 iso and how to use it in rufus
>Runs it once on rufus correctly
>Runs it AGAIN because it didn't "fill up"
>Keeps fucking it up and just refuses to listen to my instructions, it's as if he goes out of his way to do shit incorrectly.

I've fucking had enough of this shit. You shitters who can't build computers better listen real carefully and do as instructed or fuck off and learn on your own as most people have through googling and looking at instructional vidoes/articles.

Fuck you.

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user.....
did you plug the fans into the fan controller? If so then you need to power it with sata power connectors. These are exactly that. Your PSU should have plenty of those included.
If you plugged the CASE fans into your motherboard CASE FAN HEADERS then you don't have to use these.
this is a usb header. I think it's 3.1, not sure. Match it up to your motherboard MANUAL
WHICH YOU SHOULD READ
AAA

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>Helping brainlets

what is your current gpu

>bro my formatted ssd isn't filled up
>better format it again
>wtf it's still not full
oh my fuck I'm laffin

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He was doing it in rufus on his USB drive, he has yet to get into the actual windows installation.

I did now because of you, user :3

I'll go review the manual to see if I can't figure out the USB header thing.

had a typo, meant to say usb.
but still holy fuck

there is a large diagram in your manual which lays out which ports are what. if your motherboard is too old it likely won't have the matching usb header. What board are you using?

omg this thread, stop helping the tards who tried to build shit with out knowing what they were doing. fucking manuals should be enough help. me with no knowledge on builfing was able to do so 3 weeks ago just by using the manual. let the ignorants be ignorants.

Radeon HD5750 :^)

Either way i've had enough. I don't understand what the fuck his problem is. He is completely helpless and incapable of following instructions.

B450 MSI

According to the manual, I already plugged in my 3.1 USB thing.

How smart is it to buy 30cm video card that takes 3.5 backslots? But it's super cool, like 58c under full load.

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is it a terrible time to buy a vega 56 if I want to use it for pcie-passthrough? or will the release of gtx/gtr 2000s drive the price down if I wait?

I am convinced you cannot read
There is a usb 3.0 header and 3.1 header. This is the last spoonfeed so open wide, mong.
you will likely see a decent improvement. Not too much but it performs around a gt 1030 level.
I have one and it's hilariously large. Barely fits in my case. Love it to death though.

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is it normal for some SSD to not snap in with sata cable? ive had it like this for awhile with no problem, but i just checked all my wires and noticed this.

also does the SSD software really tell me when my drive is about to go, im paranoid about losing my data. (it says 100% healthy)

any drive can die at any time for any reason at all. That said SSDs have a shelf life which is easily calculated due to the tested NAND endurance. It's basically telling you the end of the line for your SSD (which will fall far out of warranty for most users).
Always. Have. Backups.

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i do have backups, but what if my SSD corrupts my files without me knowing and i backup the corrupted files?

The case manual says to see motherboard manual.
The motherboard manual says nothing about a 3.0.

I assume it's not needed or I have no space for it.

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if you're super into having sane data with checksums and the like, you need to invest in shit like ECC and better filesystems than NTFS. Win10 has support for ReFS or some shit, no idea how well that works. Linux has ZFS which is great for data sanity.
You're gonna have to dig harder than PCBG to find the answers you seek paranoid user. The Jow Forumsdatahoarder (datahoarding?) subreddit (I KNOW, REDDIT) has lots of information on how to backup and secure data.

no, its retarded until 2020 RAM price drop, AMD 7nm+, SSD price drop.

im waiting until 2020 its going to be awesome

what card? it sound cool

thanks. ill try not to worry too much, but im a gamedev and im paranoid/autistic about losing work

I hate MSI so fucking much
I downloaded your manual and this isn't really your fault.
The new specs for USB (which is dumb as fuck) went from being usb 3.0 and usb 3.1 to the new AND FUCKING DUMB usb 3.1 gen 1 and usb 3.1 gen 2.
You only have a 3.1 gen 1 connector, your usb c port on the front of your case will be unusable.
good luck devanon

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>Gaming plus mobo

IM LMAOING AT YOUR LIFE

Some people can't be helped user. Youtube guides are there for a reason.

>rtx is here
kinda wanna buy a 1060 before september ends, when do you guys think the prices are gonna drop? weeks or months from now?

months, prices are going down slowly

>Avoid cheap models ie MSI Armor (Mk2 is ok)
I can buy an MSI Armor Mk1 for $369 or the Mk2 for $429, is it worth it to buy the shitter card at such a discount?

>ONE THOUSAND DOLLARS FOR A 2080 TI
>O N E T H O U S A N D D O L L A R Y D O O S

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zotac 1070ti amp

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The small port between the USB 2.0 and mic port won't work?

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yes. that wee boy was a 10Gbps port. The other two are only 5 each. It's whatever, you aren't missing out on too much since USBC is STILL not widely adopted. If I were you I'd get on with putting your gpu in, (if you have two 8 pin connectors on it, make sure you use two 8 pin cables, not one with two male ends)

>Avoid cheap models
Does this apply for both AMD and Nvidia?
Anyone here owns a 1060 WindForce? Is it as bad as people say? I don't plan to OC it.

absolute unit

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How dumb of an idea is buying a 200€ computer case?
Asking for a friend.

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not that bad, thats like the house of your pc, hes going to be there for years, you have to give your pc a good house to work well

not terrible, it can last you for a really long time and multiple builds. Is it at least a good one?

Who here comfy with Vega waiting for 7nm?
Getting new CPU cooler to push the OC on my 1700 to hold me over until the 3700X comes out.

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>How dumb of an idea is buying a 200€ computer case?
That's 230 USD. If you know you need all those case's features, you have the budget, then go for it.

I have an RX 580 8G and a Ryzen 5 1600. I need a monitor to replace my current primary monitor and I have around 230 eurodollars to spend. I don't do any color sensitive work, just science stuff (I need to be able to read papers/code comfortably) and gaymen. What do?

Might as well buy a good one now that you will love for generations instead of compromising, assuming you have a decent amount of disposable income.

I can't fucking fit any of my cables because of this piece of shit gigantic cooler that I'm not removing again because it was a bitch to get on

my PSU went out, was a cheap Corsair VS550. rest of the sytsem is fine, though. It's a fairly dated Haswell system with a gtx760, i don't really game anymore except LoL but i really need it to last atleast another 3 years so i can finish school. money is tight, so do i buy another VS550 for $71 and hope it lasts or a better PSU like the Corsair RM550x for $122? i really like the fact it's supposedly silent, VS550 was like a jet engine, but again money is kind of an issue

dont buy corsair, is just rebranded chink shit, also if you are going to buy a new cheap build, get the ryzen 2200g too good to be true, and you dont even need a graphics card

im debating on spending an extra 50 bucks user, i don't have money for a new build. if this pc goes out im stuck using my laptop until i graduate. i live in a country where corsair seasonic and antec is basically all that's sold, so there's that

get smaller hands
newegg has an evga bronze 650 watt for like 50 bucks.

Is the 1070ti worth it over the 1070 for 1440p gaming?

I wanna thank you for your replies gentlemen.
The case that I'm considering for is the NCASE M1. It's a mini ITX case with the best design in my opinion. It costs a fortune but I feel like it would be an honor to have something that only a select number of people have; a collector''s piece, if you will. It has space for 2 gpu intake fans which should keep it pretty cool. Not having a cool GPU is my main gripe with my current mini itx case.
I also understand that the Cougar QBX has the same features and is only 1/4th of the price, but I really want to have something nice. What do you say, should I go for it?

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Next time I'm buying the largest case in the world so I can actually fit my hands and cables inside

Looking for a soundboard but am too brainlet to know which ones are good or if this even matters.

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it's made by lian li and you get a flawless product
if you have an itch for it, do make the purchase
navi when

to elaborate, it's actually smarter to spend more on parts that're hardly ever going to become obsolete such as cases or power supplies
if you want a good excuse that makes sense, here's one

onboard is fine or try

it doesn't matter in this day and age.

I have OC'd Ryzen 1600 and did 10 intelBurnTests and my max temp was 83. is that alright?

"alright" is on you, are you okay with it getting that hot under that kind of sustained load?

I don't know. Is the CPU ok taking that, is it too hot for it?

Current planned build so far, any need of adjustment?
Keep in mind that I'm not the smartest when it comes to picking parts.

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Think TJunction is around 95C

The onboard gigabit lan isn't sufficient? Or do you intentionally not want to use Intel drivers (on an Intel platform)?
Get a 70 Ti or 80 Ti

No, so im guessing i should probably change that.

Whats your recommendation?

Asked in last thread, only one person gave an answer and said to get an Adata SSD.

Ok, can anybody sort of rank these SSD makers or at least tell me which are best?
I'm trying to keep it under $90 for my 500gb drive so Samsung is sorta out of the question.

Team Group L5 LITE 3D

The mobo already has gigabit lan, the same speed as the extra network card you have. There will be little to no difference in performance.

what about crucial mx500?

Graphics card wise im looking at this:

Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB OC

Is this optimal?

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what would be the best way to remove these pushpins? I mounted the bars in the wrong orientation and they don't seem to have any sort of unlocking mechanism. I'm not sure if I should just yank them out with pliers or if that'll fuck them up or the motherboard? Squeezing them from the back doesn't seem to do anything since they are firmly in place.

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you picked a cpu which is meant for OC, but a locked mobo. Either drop down to 8700 without k, or spend like $70 more for a decent z370 mobo for overclocking

MSI - Z370-A PRO ATX LGA1151

Better?

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rog strix 1080 for $350. good deal?

if I already have a freesync monitor is it worth to get an AMD card when a 1070ti would be cheaper?

no, variable refresh rate is a godsend. You won't believe it till you see it. Stick with AMD if you have freesync otherwise switch to gsync if you want to go Nvidia.

pcpartpicker.com/list/rThzhy

Is this good for singleplayer gayming at 1080p
MicroATX build.

Just get a 1070ti. Much better than vegashit and adaptive sync is a meme.

>adaptive sync
>t. too poor to afford it

Unless you get less than 60 fps in a 144hz monitor freesync/gsync is useless

I installed my Ryzen 5 without these and used it for almost a year.
My temps were a bit higher that norm, but it went fine all this time.
What do?

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those are for other cooling mounts, not the one it comes with

Have you ever read the manual? This for custom coolers

put them back on and see if you get better temps

Why did you think that 4 screws would make it run cooler?