/ag/&/am/: audio general & audiophile memes

don't listen too loud edition

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Other urls found in this thread:

hifi-zubehoer.shop/en/nordost-blue-heaven-netzwerkkabel-a-33547.htm
youtu.be/ggOGFtW12kE
amazon.com/TIN-T2-Dynamic-Earphone-Headphones/dp/B07DL2FPBL
forums.audioholics.com/forums/threads/effect-of-humidity-on-speaker-response.104290/
forum.rme-audio.de/viewtopic.php?id=26092
bestbuy.com/site/sony-2-0-ch-stereo-receiver-with-bluetooth-black/6187501.p?skuId=6187501
twitter.com/AnonBabble

Do my optical cables need gold or platinum contacts for best results with 32bit/192khz audio?
Also what brand of network cables is recommended for best audio experience? I think standard cables introduce lots of jitter to the signal, I was able to tell cheap network cables 95% of the time. It really depends on the dynamics, if you want music that was created during the big loudness war, than you will probably not hear the difference.

>Do my optical cables need gold or platinum contacts for best results with 32bit/192khz audio?
No.
>Also what brand of network cables is recommended for best audio experience? I think standard cables introduce lots of jitter to the signal, I was able to tell cheap network cables 95% of the time.
Sounds like a meme but if it matters much get shielded cat6

/placebo/

So will this work? hifi-zubehoer.shop/en/nordost-blue-heaven-netzwerkkabel-a-33547.htm

I was told that Blue Heaven cables are very analytical and so warm. I actually don't want my sound to be too warm, that is why my Mcintosh is biased quite low.

>€399,00
People probably bought this garbage

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What do you mean? Do I really have to spend more money to send data through the network to my DAC without making it sound all shitty?

>trying to force memes

Can you be a tiny bit more subtle with your bait?

Look: I have my vinyl ripped at 32bit/192khz and got a dedicated HD with isolated powersupply for each record. I don't want to abuse my LPs, which is why I will use the HDs until bit rot makes them unlistenable. I know that analog is the only way, but trust me, the difference between 32bit/192khz uncompressed to vinyl is really small. I think I can live with that. But I sure as hell need a stable connection to get that stuff through the network. See, I can't have a single computer with 500 drives... Therefore I need a good network cable, cause the cheap ones all sound really thin and uninspiring, and for the lack of a better word: sterile.

So what do you recommend? Shielded cat6 is probably not enough, I will need at least cat14.

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well, fuck it. You unbelievers are just jelly because your ears are not trained enough to really dig what the power of tubes can do compared to your cheap little transistor amps.

Enjoy listening to your stupid compressed rips at inferiorer sample rates while it lasts.

Take Physics 101.

I did. Physics is the only reason why I wanted dedicated powersupplies in the first place. I knew that a single supply would create noise in the way the bits are written to the discs. We all know that it is best to have 1s only on one side of the drive and 0s on the other in order to cancel out an RF passing through them.
Noisy bit spreadings means a higher crest factor and this results in unresponsive, compressed sound.

You should try yourself at comedy, if you already didn't.

Thank you! Greatly appreciated! But I have alread y found my profession as an acupuncturist and healer in field of homeopathy.

Excellent choice of Thread Pic.

Also Past Thread:

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Challenge:

Post your system.

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>They're supposedly bad for sound quality
They are! First things first: Is it your job as a listener to alter the signal in any way? No. The artist decides. You are free to chose speakers and amps to at a little bit of warmth, but changing frequencies is really not the way to go.

Why are tone stacks bad? They generally require a low impedance high current amplyfing stage. At that point you bass and top end is being wasted. You cannot get it back. On amps without tonestacks you are also free to use high impedance speakers on the outputs (even if labled different). You can actually even run your headphones on the outputs without risking loss of signal quality.

He probably uses some shitty active JBL speakers on his Windows computers soundcard. lol. What a pleb.

Well, almost every compact studio monitor has adjustments on their backside, especially ones that are designed for OB vans and such. Why? Because every listening room is different and may require some tone control.
Also when listening to music quietly you can use tone compensation to adjust to your hearing sensitivity loss at lower volumes.
Also no artist told me on what speakers I should listen to his music neither he told me that I can't use tone control.

From my experience, many people don't care about the differences. Most people don't hear or know the difference between low tier 128kps mp3 and high resolution wav or flac. Part of this is because they're using $10 earbuds or car stereo. Also, girls don't care about audio -- as long as it has a catchy beat its usually enough.

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>not having a standardized, certified room for your music
>posting in this thread for connaisseurs of high quality sound
Does anybody besides your mother think that you are an intelligent being?

You are so right. I hate these people. They cannot even tell clipping from distortion.

Ever since I got better speakers I seldom use EQ unless I want to run "ambient rain" tracks when I'm sleeping. Even light EQ bugs the hell out of me because it sounds artificial. A well balanced speaker-amp set up will give realistic results, and cutting into that with tone control or EQ makes it sound less realistic.

thing is i have a pretty thought through setup at home. but if im at the beach or someplace with a shitty bluetooth speaker, i enjoy those songs just as much.

Stop trolling u nut.

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I'm not that way anymore. I can hear all the distortions or the muddy high range, or the synthesized mid-octaves in bluetooth speakers. I don't mind the lack of bass because bass usually gives me a headache.

Can you post your setup?

EQ is even worse than physical tone stacks. The processing power used in the CPU to change the bits rarely works without introducing jizzer to the signal.

I do totally agree on the speakers. Get good ones, don't EQ. You will at least need 500WPC to make the best out of the amp because you don't want to run it too hot.

>shitty bluetooth
Isn't that what one would call a tautology?

>Stop trolling
>posts the big D

Regarding the Presonus: Connect your speakers to a different power strip or supply than your computer. If the speakers are connected to the same source as the computer and interface, they could be receiving a ground, resulting in noise. Isolating the speakers to their own source can rectify many noise issues. Try a power conditioner. Not only will a quality power conditioner cut down on noise in the line, it will protect your equipment from power spikes and surges. Every electronic audio device with variable gain can be "turned up" to a level where inherent noisy artifacts become audible. Make sure that you are not recording too hot; additionally, make sure that your speakers, or interface output volume, are not turned up too high.

>tautology
hehe

There's three or four:
1. Krell --> Dynaudio Contour
2. SAE --> Cambridge Audio AVR --> Quad (dynamic) + MartinLogan Motion 2 (as a supertweeter)
3. Pioneer (vintage) --> Allison 4 + Sony MB150
4. Micro Panasonic --> Sony MB150

I use #1 for music. #2 to play rain. #3 for loud movies. #4 to play Rammstein. The Sonys are $5 a pair and there's eight of them (all from Goodwill) so I'm "not afraid." The source is an X60s or hard drive esata feeding digital files through a CA DacMagic 100, or a vintage Sony SACD 5 disc changer. There's also a MartinLogan subwoofer hooked up through #1 but its too fucking loud so I usually turn it off.

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>There's also a MartinLogan subwoofer hooked up through #1 but its too fucking loud so I usually turn it off.
>I don't mind the lack of bass because bass usually gives me a headache.
Are you the autistic basedboy that throws a fit over large speakers?

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You may want some measurement microphone. If your setup starts to sound "louder" and not "just more extended on bass" then something is wrong.

I'm making a 45cmx50cm wooden for a 12" double coil speaker I'll be using as a subwoofer, I have two 3" reflex I want to install.
Where should the speaker and reflex go? I was thinking speaker on the underside and both reflex on one side one top one bottom.
Also how much stuffing do I need to put inside the box?

Thanks!

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>I was thinking speaker on the underside
The risk involved here is the creep of the woofer. Check the weight and stiffness carefully to avoid long-term damage.
>both reflex on one side one top one bottom.
Nearby boundaries can couple to the port. Can be useful for down firing ports to increase effective length, but do take that into account.
Simpler to not aim the port at the floor.
>Also how much stuffing do I need to put inside the box?
As little as necessary. Decreases efficiency of vented alignments, causing a loss of extended bass response.
For an aggressively filtered sub, this may turn out to be none.

Just go for a closed box maybe? Or you calculated it as vented?

Calculated as vente

The creep is the distance the sub travels? It's gonna be mounted on tennis balls so it's going to be raised

>Not mentioning hi-fi graded fuses for his audiophile circuits
>No information about the electrical cables
>Probably not even living in a sound optimized house
Enjoy your entry-level setup

Want to add the 310s to my 305's. It's mainly for classical to add some extra depth and punch to the bass. I want them because they get good reviews and have balanced connections. Better options/thoughts?

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Ports in the front is the best placement.
Have you done any calculations what so ever or just bought shit?

I was given the shit by someone that did the calculations some years ago and grew disinterested with the project, ha vaguely remembers this as his goal, he's not 100% sure

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Ok, quite the gamble then :P
I would just put the driver and the ports in the front like a normal setup.

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There are fucking mites on my speakers, like a hundred or so I think.
They look like grains of fine salt size wise.
Nothing else from wood or MDF and the likes is affected in my house.

How do I get rid of these fuckers, Im afraid they'll go to the paper cone.

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Find the resonant frequency of the mites and watch them explode.

What are some entry-level closed headphones that are FUN and not for studio monitoring/DJ shit?

>Being a uncultured twat
How can you not want this is your life?
youtu.be/ggOGFtW12kE

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HD-25

don't reply to avatarfags

but user these are for mixing

get some fidelio's

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Posting my setup

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Well, I ordered ME25, now I just need to wait...

Why do dubsman only have like 20 CDs?

In fact, I do. See My cables are 104 AWG. They are huge, just like my testicles. And I'll tell ya what I stick in my fusebox...

optical cables dont transmit electrical signals you dingdong

nice, debut 1 or 2?

Do you know if they are braced internally?

What is light?
>Electro
>Magnetic
>Wave
Of course the metal matters. Tell me it does not.

Gold is the best entry level conductor, but I swear by Platinum because of its tighter bass response and grittier lower mids.

How is it to live without testicles? Are you a girl or just decided to get rid of them?

Well, it helped with the upper even harmonics

you can put driver and ports at the bottom and make sub that act as a coffee table like on pic

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>creep
Long-term deformation of the woofer under constant stress. Hanging the heavy woofer vertically can be a problem if it is too heavy for its surround.

Doesn't look flared.

is that an amp?

wat

what do you use ofr speakers

lol

where do you fit all that

looks lonely japanese bachelor tier

watre u gonna power those with

get rid of jbl

>Paper cone
They let you play music in your senior housing project?

This, what can I use as cutoff to make it baasy?

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That subwoofer is only alright at best. I'd spend more and go for something cheap from Rythmik instead.

amazon.com/TIN-T2-Dynamic-Earphone-Headphones/dp/B07DL2FPBL

are these any good?

they're well regarded on /csg/

oh shit, i dint even realize there was a headphone general, excuse my autism. Thank you though.

>went to an audio store near me and listened to McIntosh gear and Sonus Faber speakers
absolutely incredible sounding

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>paper cones are bad

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forums.audioholics.com/forums/threads/effect-of-humidity-on-speaker-response.104290/

and rot

You're a dick

>tfw treated paper cones

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treatments crack or degrade with time, and then mold gets trapped inside the remainder

you know its true; modern materials are much more resilient and faster

Also, Silverfish. I found Silverfish inside the woofer basket or whatever of my Allison 4s. They were eating the coating.

Buy me new speakers

You need a good looking room to not make them stick out like a sore thumb.

how old are your speakers

3 years or so.
Kill me

why dont you just sell them - they probably have kept more than 80% of their value

>60 bux new
No thanks satan

Are Phillips x2/27 just a meme?

I'm trying to Clue You In:

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114 dB S/N Ratio, I can't Even...

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What speakers? The cheap ones don't even use paper anymore.

Mordaunt short m10

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Those are good speakers, user.

Thx, for the price price I really like them.
I'm just gonna whipe off any mites I can wipe off(it seem most of them really are deep into the material at this pont) and make some unholy deadly mixture of chemicals and try to kill them that way.

wrap them in plastic - the mites will suffocate

I got a RME UFX+, its DAC isn't as specced as the ADI-2 pro but it's not far off. Can't tell the difference between it, native instruments komplete 6 or my ALC1220 MSI z270.

But I'm using dsp genelecs in a semi treated room, so its somewhat moot as the DAC gets double dipped through the genelecs. Although I was using analog genelecs before and I couldn't tell the hear the difference then either.

RME themselves hold a similar stance.
>There is no reason to assume that you will be in any way dissatisfied with the ADI-8QS or DS MK III. Specs are better for the ADI-2 Pro, but there is no differerence in "sound quality" by design, i.e. the ADI-2 Pro is not meant to have a specific "character" of any kind (nor is any other RME device). You can not expect immediately audible differences between converters of this class, even if one of them is ten years old. Converter technologoy does not advance the way computer CPUs or digital camera sensors have done over the past decade.
>forum.rme-audio.de/viewtopic.php?id=26092

It's a nice converter for sure though!

You can brush my hair, undress me everywhere!

I think they are for a different market. ADI-2 Pro is more like for a solo amateur musician who made himself a small studio and just wants a small interface to record his violin with a good quality or something. UFX looks like a more "pro" tool with multiple inputs etc.

>I think they are for a different market.
That doesn't affect its DAC performance though. The ADI-2 pro is marketed as an audiophile dac and a mastering grade converter. The UFX+ is marketed as an all-in-one audio interface, but the tech spec difference between them is about ~8dB in THD+N in the D/A conversion.

>THD+N: < -104 dB, < 0.00063 %
>THD+N @ -1 dBFS: -112 dB, 0.00025 %

I'd be assed to tell any difference between neutral converters once they reach ~-85dB THD+N, even something like the Komplete 6 which is dinosaur aged by now, with a 'pathetic' 0.01% thd+n, that is magnitudes below both RMEs performance and probably even the ALC1220 too. The weakest link in the chain is most always the room and speakers.

Not everyone can afford a six figure professional acoustically designed room I know, but even some modest room treatment from GIK/wherever + DSP EQ will go a long way further than DAC upgrades for improving audio transparency. It's miniscule dB differences between DACs in frequency response compared to massive +/-15dB peaks for typical room FR. If your speakers suck upgrade those too I guess, but most people aren't getting the most of out of their 'shitty' speakers to begin with, because of room FR response, sub optimal speaker positioning and no EQ.

The exception is if you need higher output level in your DAC for some reason.

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I fucking hate buying used records and having to peel off the stickers from the jackets and they leave residue or tear.

Would this be good for me if I wanted to plug both my turntable and computer into so I could switch between them with a button and maybe use it with headphones too? By that I mean, will this function as a preamp for the turntable as well as a headphone amp? Or would those two also need to be purchased separately? And how would I even add a headphone amp to this?
bestbuy.com/site/sony-2-0-ch-stereo-receiver-with-bluetooth-black/6187501.p?skuId=6187501

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