/pcbg/ - PC Building General

>Create a parts list
pcpartpicker.com/
>Learn how to build a PC
Search youtube for a guide for your socket

Want help?
>State the budget & CURRENCY for your build
>List your uses; eg Gaming, Video Editing, VM Work
>For monitors, include purpose and graphics card pairing.
>Don't use Speccy. Use HWinfo, SIV, etc.
>For Win7 in Ryzen, refer to pastebin.com/TUZvnmy1

CPU
>R3 2200G - Bare minimum gaming(dGPU optional)
>R5 2400G/i5-8400 - Consider IF on sale
>R5 2600/X - Good gaming & multithreaded work use CPUs
>Wait for 9700k - Almost surely best for 1080p gaming
>R7 2700/X - Best high-end gaming/mixed usage on a non-HEDT platform
>Threadripper/Used Xeon - HEDT

RAM
>8GB - Enough for most gaming use
>16GB - Standard for heavy use
>32GB - If you have to ask, you don't need this
>CPUs benefit from fast RAM; 2933MHz+ is ideal

Graphics cards
>RTX 2000 cards are worse performance per $ than current GPUs. Just a marketing gimmick to rip off idiots
>Avoid cheap MODELS ie MSI Armor (Mk2 is ok), Gigabyte G1/Wf, ASUS dual, and others which have small heatsinks and low quality fans
1080p
>RX 570/580 /w Freesync or 1060 6GB are standard 1080p 60fps+ options
>1050 3Gb or RX560 for lower settings and/or older games
>GTX 1070Ti/Vega 56 if seeking higher FPS /w a high hz monitor
1440p
>Vega 56; 1070Ti/1080 if you already have Gsync
>GTX 1080Ti if seeking higher FPS /w a high hz monitor
4K
>Upscale from 1620-1800p. Maybe 2080Ti, but awful value.
OpenCL work
>Vega 64

Storage
>Backup before using StoreMi
>Consider getting a larger SSD (better GB/$) instead of small SSD & large HDD
>2TB HDDs are barely more $ than 1TB
>M.2 is a form factor, NOT a performance standard

Display
>Consider 75hz minimum; 60hz are mostly old models.
>Always consider FreeSync with AMD cards
>PLAN YOUR BUILD AROUND YOUR MONITOR IF GAMING

More
rentry.co/pcbg-more

Previous

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Other urls found in this thread:

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electromagnetically_excited_acoustic_noise_and_vibration
pcpartpicker.com/list/4mCVLJ
videocardz.com/70890/amd-radeon-rx-vega-xtx-vega-xt-and-vega-xl
twitter.com/NSFWRedditVideo

>show me some data where "AMD BTFO'S INTLEL"
done here

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Fucking disgusting desu.

>only time amd takes the lead on market share is when intel runs out of cpus
Lmao

I have never seen a single advertisement for AMD in my country. I don't think many people think it exists here. Impressive tbqh.

Give me a rundown on Vega 56/64. I'm interested because of FreeSync.

Vega 64 is shit, too expensive vs 1080.
Vega 56 is best value. Freesync HDR compatible.

someone correct me if I'm wrong but:
Vega 56 approx 1070 performance and is power hungry, 1070ti beats it in most cases. people seem to undervolt the 56.
Vega 64 sub 1080 performance also power hungry. Price is getting better but $/performance is still very high. Both could be justified though with the savings you will have by purchasing a freesync monitor instead of paying the goysync premium.

i want to get a new case. my CM storm trooper still has amazing airflow but that shit is huge, ugly, heavy and fucking dirty.

i want something smaller that will accommodate a modern big gpu and also have good cooling capabilities. I don't need radiator slots, mobo is atx. any tips? i would like to spend less than the equivalent of 150 $ but im willing to go over for exceptional quality. i have almost every brand available locally and can simply amazon the rest

Freesync HDR is very expensive too.

Pooga is simply not worth it, no developer gives a shit about amd cards.

Get 56 for gaming. clock-for-clock it's the same as the 64 and has better perf/watt as those idle CUs on the 64 still use some power.
No, 56 is a lot better than 1070 performance. It beats reference 1080 when overclocked and undervolted.

Still $500-$1200 cheaper than Gsync HDR.
PX277h is only $400.

It's mostly GCN which is the most developed for with consoles, you retard.

Which of the following do you think is more true;

>games are increasingly utilising more cores, making a 2600 better equipped to run games going into next gen compared to an 8400
or
>by the time games properly utilise the extra cores of a 2600 it will be a vastly outdated chip, making the 8400 a better buy for now

games are currently being made with 6 cores in mind(bf5). the jump to 8 cores might be faster than you think with the ps5. also remember that intel hyperthreading is not a given going forward due to the security issue with it. go amd

400 on sale. The screen is 500, 5ms response time. The Samsung Freesync 27" is 600.

link

/ag/ is saturated, and speakers are part of a build in my opinion. So here goes

I need someone to tell me the soundblaster katana is shit so I don't pay 300$ for it. I like the fact that it can fit under my monitor and has a sub with it. The problem is that I already have a sub, but my bookshelf speakers don't fit on my new desk (student apartment with small commie desks). Can someone either tell me that the katana would be really worth it or recommend a good enough soundbar with a sub out jack for cheaper?

By the time games utilize more threads better, which some already do like BF1 came out a while ago and its multiplayer is thread hungry, you'd certainly get more from a new CPU. However the 2600 is surely going to last you longer when it comes to getting 60fps minimum, just like the 2600k lasted many years longer at achieving 30+ or 60+ minimums than the 2500k did.

But how is that even a question of "which will require an upgrade sooner" when the 2600 is cheaper? You'd both have a CPU which lasts longer and more saved toward and upgrade later.

The 5ms is definitely a shame.
But there's more comparisons. Like Acer's upcoming Freesync 2 HDR and Gsync HDR 4k 144hz monitors. ~$700-$800 for the Freesync one and ~$1200-1300 for the Gsync one, iirc.

I hear Vizio makes an alright soundbar. They even have one with wireless base and rear satellite speakers.
I'm no expert on that stuff, though.

Where do I go from here if I want to play at 144Hz 1080p? I have to upgrade my CPU and GPU right?

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If sound is such a concern why don't you take monitoring speakers with a sub bass?
3" speakers are more than enough.
Try to go for non-neutral speakers, neutral sound is debilitating in prolonged use.

Or a 5.1/7.1 surround HiFi setup for that matter.

Yes

>its another amd and intel faggots ruin /pcbg/ thread

Are Gigabyte 1080ti cards any good? Looking at a Gaming OC 11 and seeing generally positive reviews.

the 2600 isn't really cheaper than the 8400;
you need to spend more on RAM and MoBo, not to mention a cooler if OC'ing.
In Australia the 2600x costs around $30-40 more than an 8400

Enthoo Pro, Meshify or rl06. If you want to go more expensive look around but it's hard to find airflow cases since manufacturers are honor bound to seal off every single fan intake with tempered glass and bezels right now.

>67815234

a late thanks for the input. I found a Corsair 750w for the same price and bought it.

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I have $400 and 16 gbs of ddr3 was the best rig I can build for gaming

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I fucked up, meant to quote

I want to like the Meshify, but something about it isn't clicking with me from photos
Is the Define still okay?

What if I just get an ssd now instead of the classic ssd+hdd combo? I store my shit elsewhere anyways.

What do you think of the in win 101c(atx) and 301c(matx) airflow-wise.

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>9th gen might be delayed until Q1 2019
pls no intol

gib i9 pls

Specifically looking for the smallest footprint possible. Sound bar would fit nicely under the monitor, whereas any standing speaker would have barely enough room on either side of the monitor

Are you memeing or do you actually want a housefire?

If you have a Bluetooth mobo or Bluetooth card I'd go with the Bose Soundwear companion. Allows you have good sound quality while not bothering anyone else. They make a soundbar called the solo 5. Here are the dimensions: 54,8 x 7 x 8,6 cm.
I have a Bose bias for non professionnal, non hifi, so, sorry.

I think it'd be better if the PSU was on the bottom with a fan at the top back of the case to promote more direct airflow over the VRMs. That's what I did with my case and they stay around 45c max under load.

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Yamaha ATS2070 for budget.
Yamaha YSP2700 for Qatari princes.

Not sure many people know but Yamaha makes crazy good audio. I personally own Yamaha HS7 and have been please by their quality for years now.

Kek you put the industrial noctuas? How do they do?

Any recommendations for a new case?
Pic related is what i have now.

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Their logo is a tuning fork after all. They also make great pianos.

> mobo
Not sure it's the right socket.
>ssd
What the hell is that autismo?
>gpu
why Titan X?
>ram
why dominators?

State your business fool.

My 390 Sapphire Nitro just died. Assuming it isn't under warranty, which it probably isn't, what GPU do I replace it with?

When will 2080tis be in stock? """"They"""" said all of the preorders would ship by the 27th and that the wealthy brainlets like me who didn't pre-order would be able to buy after that. Well, it is the 27th and everything is still sold out on newegg. Do ya'll have any idea when I'll be able to buy my new card? My 1080ti is anemic af and I don't like waiting.

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What's you screen and how much fps do you want to get on what games?

This is what i already have, i simply want a quality new case that can fit all that in.

Just built a PC and it's making a periodic high pitched whine. It's like I'm in a sci fi movie. How did I fuck up?

what part is the sound coming from?

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electromagnetically_excited_acoustic_noise_and_vibration
Figure out where it is coming from and replace that part.

It's like you look for the most expensive shit and fit it all together, while adding a 1000W making sure your electricity bill is fat and greasy.
I guess you should go for a super tower and take the most expensive one.

Get rid of the NVMe and get a 500Gb MX500 instead of the 300.
>Titan X
Vega 64 is generally far better for the money for anything you'd use the Titan X for.
Thermaltake G3 for case if the GPU fits.
Get a better monitor that you can use with the AMD GPU, too.

Also get a CPU that isn't fundamentally broken architecturally and isn't stupidly expensive. You can get a 12 core Threadripper for that price, can't you?

The 390 carried me through everything I played, my screen's 1080p and I run a second 1600x900 monitor just for having shit open.

Makes sense. Will keep looking for an interdasting case.

RX570 if you feel cheap, 580 to have some room with future games.
1060 if you wanna go Nvidia.
It's written in the OP.

This is my current budget build from a few months back and I'm looking to upgrade a bit, which part should I start off with first and is there a certain order you should you do it in? I was wondering if I should start off with the power supply first cause I don't know if it's safe to use with parts with higher watt

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What are some tempered glass cases that have clear glass. Not smoked, tinted, or amber.

No idea but it went away and only comes back when I'm turning off the PC.

pretty sure it is just everything shutting down
my system makes that sound also but i have no issues at all after a year

You could put a 2600 and an RX 580, a couple more hdds, fill your shit with fans and even have room for upgrade with that wattage.

RX580 is not a major upgrade over the 390, especially if you BIOS flashed the 390.
Just better perf/watt.
Get Vega56 if you can afford it. $385 for the Red Dragon or Pulse is a good deal.

Get a better board like the B450 Bazooka.
Get better ram like the G.Skill 2800 CL15 @ 1.25v or CL16 @ 1.2v kit.
Don't get CX/M PSU. Get BQ or MI12 or whatever that seasonic bronze one is called.
Why the huge ass fucking case which'll be 90% empty? Should be able to get much cheaper mATX ones.

Hello Jow Forumsang. I want to build my first PC. I plan to play some quality 4k games and competitive games. as well as editing and watching movies.
(only nongame related thing ill really need it for is encoding video files),

Im trying to go for the "best" build I can at this point in time. While remaining future proof

poorfags need not reply.

pcpartpicker.com/list/4mCVLJ

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Planning a new PC. Should i stick with the Realtek ALC1220 7.1 onboard sound that the MOBO has, or:
A. buy a soundcard
B. buy a seperate AMP/DAC setup?

You forgot to choose a CPU cooler. I'm personally using an NH-U14S for my 2950x. If you go for a noctua cooler like the one I have then you may want to also buy a couple RGB fans, the stock brown ones won't fit with your build's overall aesthetic.

State your purpose.

I had a autism moment. Im gonna EKWB liquid cool the whole ass thing. So will i still need to pick up a CPU cooler?

Not if you liquid cool the whole thing???

Just listening to some high quality sound. Not mixing or anything like that. Minor video creation.

I use a 7.1 headset for most of my games. My associates claim it wont benefit from any kind of HiFI setup, so i wont use this for gaming.

I thought as much.

Speaking of, does anyone know if using EKWB for the whole loop is a good idea? Or should i use someone elses radiators? Pumps etc.

(i really only went with EKWB because they seem to have the foothold on liquid cooling)

Stay with the mobo sound chip then. If your headphones are low impedance you'll be fine.

You may want to consider a bigger SSD. 500 GB will fill up really quickly and I hate moving files between my HDD and SSD. IMO a 1TB sata SSD is better than a 500 GB NVMe drive. I've used both and the speed difference isn't that noticeable.

It will be harder to fuck up if you stick to ek. Mixing metals is dangerous and can be hard to avoid if you try to cheap out by buying from sketchy brands.

>will i still need to pick up a CPU cooler?
It might be helpful to buy a cheap air cooler so that you can test the build before filling the custom loop. It would suck to put the loop together only to discover that one of your parts was DOA.

Or craft the loop before putting everything in place, if possible.

Don't populate all the Ram dimm slots unless you want to cripple your ability to run higher memory speeds. Just stick to 4x memory sticks (one per channel)

Why are you all so against m.2? When it gets to 480gb and upwards, with some search, it's practically the same price as sata for higher speed.

Source? I'm currently running 4 16 GB sticks @ 3400 MHz and may want to buy an additional 4 sticks at some point in the future. I'd hate to run into stability issues.

Why the fuck are GPU prices going up again?

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No one is against m.2, you fucking moron. Show a post which said that.
ctrl+f m.2 only brings up your post against it.

>Why the fuck are GPU prices going up again?
The reason which has been in the OP for like an entire month except when the Nvidia shill made it a handful of times.

See

Psu are most efficient at 50% utility.
I have a large case right now, but the soft material on bitfenix turned into dusty mess, want a smaller maybe cube.

Nvidia has a monopoly on high-end GPUs.

Any company that achieves a monopoly will do one of two things. They will either increase their profits by spending less on research (like intel in 2011 - 2017) or by increasing prices (like Nvidia ever since Pascal launched).

What's exactly the difference between RTX and XTX on AMD? I've been trying to search it but I came up with almost nothing.

> we
M.2 is shit because noone uses them for what their real purposes.
Most people think "wow so fast, such boot" when in fact the only thing it's good for are file transfers. It doesn't slow loading time in games or accelerates boot.
If you are not a professional who needs faster file transfers to maximize productivity, or have a filled up mATX build, you will have no need for those. And even if you have a clunked up mATX no need to use NVMeme.
SATA drives work just as good.
Hello newfag.

videocardz.com/70890/amd-radeon-rx-vega-xtx-vega-xt-and-vega-xl

Because RTX had an awful launch so people want to by more 10 series cards

Hello lads, this gigabyte gpu caught my eye as it's currently on sale in my country.

I see that I should avoid this brand, stated in the OP.

If so what GPU (specifically around the 1070/ti tier) should I get?

Thank

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i need to install windows 10 but i dont have a usb with 4.6 gb and my phone isnt rooted, i dont want to root it, i dont have cds, i only have a pc with linux (same pc i want to install windows on a partition)

any options or just move on with life?

Buy a USB key?

You could run it in a VM or buy an 8 GB flash drive. They cost like $5.

You're the newfag retard who thinks m.2 == NVMe

So do I really get a TN monitor for gaming, because I heard conflicting opinions on TN vs IPS for gaming.

can't decide between define and meshify. all the marketing speak in the website has me confused and i can barely tell the difference between the two. which one should i get?

follow up to this

I have a 1080 from gigabyte. It has served me well for the last 2 years. Gigabyte may not be the best company, but they aren't Comcast tier.

>The Vega XTX is supposedly a water-cooled edition of XT with higher TDP, whereas the XT is air-cooled version. According to our sources, the XL is a custom-only variant with cut-down Vega. So in this regard, RX Vega lineup is similar to Fury series, with the exception of XTX variant.

So, where the RTX fits here? I understand from this XTX is water cooled slightly OCed version. RTX means the regular version then?

>can't even begin to digest the concept that he is wrong
>the clear solution to this conundrum is that the other user is a retard who has no idea what he is saying, yeah, that must be it
eh, user, common.

Buy the define r6 if you care about silence, buy the meshify if you think it looks better than the r6.

The other guy was obviously speaking of NVMeme to say that over a certain threshold, "with some search" mSATA is faster than SATA. Because it's not.

Hello?

I'm Would it be dumb to throw a 1080ti in my PC for now with a 144Hz? I wouldn't upgrade my CPU until Zen 2 releases. I'm assuming that even with a 1080ti I wouldn't hit 144fps in most games because of my CPU right?

>comment by an user who also doesn't know the difference between NVMe and m.2
Embarrassing yourself.