/pcbg/ - PC Building General

>Are you eyes curved
Are yours not? What?

Nope, my eyes are flat, just like earth. Curved monitors is a jewish meme aimed at gullible teenagers and gamers.

>Nope, my eyes are flat, just like earth.
Please leave, you dont belong here.

It's samsung's way of trying to fiddle with LED tech to get better colors without actually making a full separate standard like OLED. They're kinda leaving it open to mean different things on different tiers and generations of monitors, but so far it seems to be a pretty good improvement.

>msi
big nay

Using U$D, rig for medium-high gaming

What's a good economic case for a midtower R7 Ryzen CPU and RX Vega 64 GPU build? In the future I may crossfire another RX Vega.

I don't want anything flashy or expensive, all my budget is going into power. I keep the desktop below my desk in a cabinet.

Good cooling is a plus, of course.

Thanks in advance.

>crossfire
why????

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ive been happy with my 1080 duke

Try manual timing, I'm dumb and bought 2666 cl15 but got it down to 3000 cl13 with some extra voltage.

I'll likely have this PC build for 5+ years, so I wanted to give it a little bit of expansion room near its EOL. By then the cards will be dirt cheap anyway.

Yeah, it does look nice, although that 89ms input lag is a bit concerning. And it's a real shame seeing a proper 10 bit monitor go to waste with no HDR. I'm assuming they held back because of the 350 nits brightness. BenQ is great for media editing but they don't always target other uses.

It's good as long as you have an AMD card. I've heard the HDR has issues with Nvidia ones other than the performance loss.

If you google it, it's an interesting read.
But the tl;dr is TN but with much better color and contrast.

Don't crossfire. You pay twice as much for a 0-90% performance gain. Rarely 90% and often 0%.
I like the Thermaltake G3 a lot.

3000 cl13 is a good result. 2666 CL15 @ 1.2v indicates pretty good dies to begin with. That's why I usually recommend that or 2800 CL16 to manually OC.
Why not go for higher frequency in that cast like 3466 cl15, though? Should generally work.

What's the best card for 1080p 144hz paired with a Ryzen 1600?

1070 for $500 CAD
1070ti for $580 CAD
1080 for $660 CAD
1080ti for $930 CAD

>But the tl;dr is TN but with much better color and contrast.
It's not limited to TN though. A lot of them are VA monitors, which means a better baseline for colors and way better contrast/blacks. Although they do have to work to make response time good.

>CPU
ryzen 7 2700

>GPU
radeon RX Vega 64 powercolor

>RAM
Corsair VENGEANCE LED 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4 3000 MHz

>Storage
1x 512 GB SSD
1x 4TB Mechanical drive

>PSU
Thermaltake Power Supply PS-SPR-0850FPCBUS-R ATX Smart Pro RGB 850 Watts Bronze

>Case
Thermaltake G3

Peripherals will all carry over from my current system (monitors, keyboard, mouse, etc.)

Rate/hate? I haven't build a PC in over 5 years, but this is my best take on a good mix of power and price with the current market.

probably the 1070Ti.

Ah, thanks.

I'm a bit reluctant to jump on the HDR train just yet anyway. The number of local dimming zones isn't very high and is probably still gonna grow, I'd like to wait until the technology settles a bit.

For some reason I can't get it to post at 3200 even with insanely loose timings and bumped up soc voltage, I blame my motherboard.

Get Vega56 instead if this is for gayming.
Make sure SSD is 3D NAND.
RAM is mediocre.
That case only fits SFX PSUs. That should have been obvious if you tried to pair them together in pcpartspicker.

Ah. 3000 cl13 is going to be the same as 3466 cl15 in most cases anyway. Still a lot better than the 2800 CL16 that is the best my shitty Micron B-die will get to.

Any universal 4-6 slots fan controller to recommend? The Commander pro seems over priced and I don't need rgbt bling bling

does psu modular cable polarity actually matter / exist? i decided to just risk it with a random cable and i guess it worked just fine. how do you even check the polarity? how can there be universal cable extensions if there is polarity that matters?

HDR is definitely going to see improvements, both in monitors and source implementations. But a lot of people seem to be ok with the 8 zones, and I'm pretty sure I'll be in that camp. The brightness for me isn't so much an issue as contrast and wide color gamut. There's shit that really benefits image way more than increasing resolutions at this point, and it's great to see that finally addressed, especially at sub OLED prices.

any exciting new mini itx cases coming out soon?

You know you can't even use local dimming properly with Nvidia GPUs, right?
They don't support dithering, so you get banding unless your content natively is doing it itself.

Focus on getting a good monitor that can do HDR contrast WITHOUT local dimming. Especially if you have an Nvidia GPU.

Any advice?

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that 10 pwm thermaltake one is pretty good and cheap

Problem is that monitor isn't built with gaming in mind at all. They don't even build a motion blur reduction or overdrive option into it. So you're getting rather middling IPS response times with no attempt at compensation.

cex is when we get news, so theyre all out now

>pcpartspicker

Alright, I re-jiggered the build for pcpp, thoughts?

pcpartpicker.com/list/y6ybV6

Is Sapphire a good manufacturer of the 580?

oh fuck when you get a ryzen 5 from amazon does it come with thermal paste?

also does this still work
>pastebin.com/TUZvnmy1

Sapphire is the best for amd, It's also the most expensive.

Thing is, I don't game a lot and I'm not sure how much HDR content there is outside of that. Might just not be worth it.

Nvidia isn't even an option for me, I've only had trouble with closed drivers on linux.

couldn't you get a 1070ti for around that price?

I was trying to keep the CPU and GPU both AMD; it seems like drivers and general compatibility are always a little better between the 2.

>it seems like drivers and general compatibility are always a little better between the 2.

vs mixing AMD and Nvidia, that is.

yes...

yes...

yes...

It's only an additional 20 bucks in most cases and 40 in some, and the only 580s that cheap are ASUS and some XFX cards. Thanks for the info though.

I can't wait until 2019 for 9th gen

gib i9 intol pls

>Ryzen 2600
>need new GPU soon
should I wait for 2070 or will that be overkill? I paid £250 for my 280X but it looks like that relative performance for the price will never happen

Attached: but i dont have my weapons license yet guv.jpg (1600x900, 321K)

There's a lot of 10bit content. HDR is more limited. Usually you have to pirate the larger rips. If you're paying for 4k netflix then you get it on supported content. Xbone S and X play 4k blu rays.

That benq has great color, but so do a lot of other IPS monitors with less input lag and better compensation. When you cut out HDR there's plenty of competition, and minus 144hz/freesync there's too many to count.

Is this really a thing now? For fucking forever closed source nivida drivers were the only thing that worked worth a damn on linux and all AMD was shit. Did they finally get their act together?

It's been a long time since I've built my current computer, so I'm not quite sure what I'm doing. Does anything seem out of place/bad, or maybe a better option over what I've picked?

Attached: Build Plan.png (1193x1189, 129K)

Putting together a parts list for someone entering pc gaymin. Is this gud? pcpartpicker.com/list/jPc6KB

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The closed fglrx used to be the only decently performing option for AMD, that's no longer the case.

The cooler you picked is weaker than the stock cooler. Why do you need a sound card? To avoid too much heating, get a regular SATA SSD.

My Asrock z77 Extreme4 is really showing its age. The CMOS basically doesnt hold any power unless plugged in regardless of battery, a memory slot is faulty and causes POST loops.

It is old, but what can I do? It feels bad to throw this out. Should I just get like a newer socket mobo, cpu and DDR4 RAM?

What 1080ti is best for the price?

What kind of games do you expect to play?

It’s not for me. I’m not 100% on what this person will be playing aside from things like CS, Fortnite, R6 and OW

650W is enough for a 580 and and 4590, right?

Better price per GB with larger HDD

newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?sdtid=12086899&SID=48aad53ec34611e895d19ae98ab22c260INT&AID=10446076&PID=1225267&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-Slickdeals LLC-_-na-_-na-_-na&Item=N82E16822149633

also you can get a lot more gpu power for a little more

newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?sdtid=12090226&SID=80228340c34611e8bc549ae98ab22c260INT&AID=10446076&PID=1225267&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&Item=N82E16814125966&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-Slickdeals LLC-_-na-_-na-_-na&ignorebbr=1

Cooling is the one area I know basically nothing about, so I didn't even know it was weaker. What would be a good option for a cooler, assuming I need one beyond stock for what I've got listed?
The sound card I don't necessarily need, but I am considering a dive into making music and figured I'd need it.
The SSD I can switch, especially if the one I've got in there would cause potential heating issues.

500 is already aiming high.
Get him a 1060 and he will be happy for a while. A Ryzen 5 2600 CPU, and 450W PSU should be enough. About RAM, it could be better to use dual channel. So 2x4 instead of 1x8. IDK much about ADATA SSDs but if it has 3D NAND then it should be good.

would dual 580s outperform something like Vega 56, GTX 1080, or used 1080Ti? Seems like for $500 you could do better with the GPU

Are you sure that cooler is much better than the stock one..?
Don't get a Gigabyte board except maybe the gaming 7.
Don't get blower card. Get the Red Dragon or Pulse. Those are generally the cheapest good models.
Why didn't you just change PSU?

pcpartpicker.com/list/Pnq6KB
Better and cheaper.

what the fuck

1070Ti are typically a bit more. The monitors cost even more still.

Yes. Yes they did. Their Windows drivers and software are also massively better for the past 2 years, especially so since December of last year.

Looking to build a desktop after several years of laptop use. Is it a good moment to buy parts now or should I wait?

>600-700€ budget
>gonna use it mostly to play PUBG and the occasional single player game. Escape from Tarkov too whenever that’s out.

I would appreciate monitor recommendations also but that’s a seperate budget. Is 24” 1080p the best considering I’m not gonna have a terribly powerful pc?

is buying a 1070ti stupid when 1080 exists?

>dual 580s
If you mean crossfire, forget about it. At least for gaming. It is a meme from a forgotten age.

> making music
Buy an external sound card and plug it with monitoring speakers and a headset. I have the UR-22 with a pair of HS-7 and that's pretty good.
>cooler
The stock cooler is very good. Best you could do is try it, if that is not enough then come back here.
>m.2
It shouldn't cause heating issues but since it is on the mobo and close to the CPU/GPU, it can suffer from it.
You have a big case, get a SATA SSD.

You can use this as a starting point, given the specs/your budget I think 1080p is a good resolution for you.
pcpartpicker.com/guide/gtYcCJ/modest-amd-gaming-build

yea that was my point, you can do better than two 580s for $500. vega 56 or 1080/Ti would be the way to go

yes now is a fine time to buy pc parts.

overclockers, amazon, do good for buying.

my pc would be current price range you are suggesting. maybe less game power. i use two 24" 1080p monitors. one being the gaming monitor as it is a 144hz monitor.

i would suggest a high hz/framerate monitor at 24inch + size.

with Thunder Master able to control fan speed or duty cycle, is there any point in NOT making your GPU fans always run?

Why would you run it if the temps are under 30-35°?

it doesn't go under that. I'm at mostly idle right now and it is at 44 °C.

The other dude is kinda right though. Why would you get a tiny cooler when you have a normal sized build ? Thats pretty stupid and definitly not worth it.

>Noctua
>weaker than stock cooler
Are you memeing or dumb?

Thé stock cooler for 2700x is very good.
Noctua NH9 is utter shit, for mITX. I guess it's good for a Pentium or an Athlon.
NH12+ top tier for i5+ / ryzen5+.

Looks like you could use a new cooler/ reapply some pasta.

Currently have 2 x 4GB DDR3 RAM in dual channel configuration. If I upgrade, should I simply add the other two sticks in the empty slots, swap around the sets, or get higher capacity ram to replace the original set and leave the latter in the closet?

you mean for the GPU? I don't think I wanna open that thing up.

Attached: pleasee-pleasee-s-please-respond-4517907-1.png (500x498, 386K)

I've made some adjustments to the build with the advice given. Any issues with this version? If cooling looks to be a problem, I know next to nothing about the area, so pointing out a specific product to use would be awesome.

Attached: Take 2.png (1168x1065, 117K)

If you have the means to get a 1080, why take a 1070ti?

what dumb advice

If you're getting Vega56, why wouldn't you get 1440p? There's quite a lot of 75hz 1440p monitors.

Build looks fine besides that.

The 1070ti I have my eye on is about $100 cheaper than a 1080

If your screen is 1080p144hz then I'd go with the ti. If you have a 1440p144hz I'd go with the 1080.

I'm going to be buying a 1080p144hz. I guess I'll save some money and go with the 1070ti.

Who else is in love with the Dark Rock TF? Looks awesome, sleek profile, cools the motherboard too, all black, all danger!

Attached: be_quiet_bk020_dark_rock_tf_topflow_1396082.jpg (1500x1500, 260K)

Is this board worth 170€? I understand that it's overpriced but I want to know if I can buy this motherboard and use it for 5+ years without any issues, as long as it isn't being overheated and there's enough upgrade potential.

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If your CPU supports quad channel you can do that, there is basically zero performance difference between dual channel and quad channel, so do whatever is cheaper. I'd recommend switching over to a new board with DDR4.

I have the intel version of this and it's a really good board. The LED fuckery can be switched off permanently in BIOS and it has lots of temperature sensors.
On this version I dislike the fan header placement but that really depense on your case. Also only 4 sata ports is a bit weak if you don't use M.2 and want an optical drive.
The Asrock one is the slightly nicer alternative if you don't plan on heavy OC though I'd say.

oh and I hate the USB 3.0 header location but most boards put it there so you're fucked either way. Whats the rest of your build?

>Looks awesome, sleek profile, cools the motherboard too, all black, all danger!

>He gazes lovingly upon his PCs innards rather than doing anything productive.

I like the idea of having a top down cooler that's actually good but I've never seen this in real life.
Is it any good? What would be the closest rivals? I think Scythe and Thermalright make one that's pretty similar and doesn't Noctua make one that's only slightly smaller?

WD blue(5400rpm) or Barracuda(5900rpm) for 4TB, which is more durable?

I own a WD for years now and never had a single problem. I'd go with them again.

I plan on getting an r5 2600 and use a slight OC on it. Will likely get 16gb of 3200mhz rm to go woth it. Don't plan on heavy overclocking, but I will try to get some good airflow towards the VRM's. My current Am4 board is a shitty Gigabyte AB350N. It gets incredibly hot and it can't hold a stable overclock with a 35W CPU and an aftermarket cooler.
Thank you, user.

Is it noisy?