/ag/&/am/: audio general & audiophile memes

triangles edition
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Other urls found in this thread:

genelec.com/glm
researchgate.net/publication/305331134_Myths_and_facts_about_studio_acoustics_-_part_III_Auto-Calibration
linkwitzlab.com/
linkwitzlab.com/The_Magic/The_Magic.htm
groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=67169.msg852648#msg852648
bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1063702-REG/sennheiser_561035_adapter_plug_for_hd.html
neumann-kh-line.com/neumann-kh/home_en.nsf/root/prof-monitoring_knowledge_faqs_general-answers_question13
twitter.com/SFWRedditGifs

What does this glm does exactly?

Hi /ag/!

>What's your current setup?
>What do you think you'll upgrade, if anything, in the next year?
>post pic

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genelec loudspeaker manager
genelec.com/glm
It basically calibrates and time aligns all your genelec dsp monitors and subwoofers. So once you start buying DSP genelecs, you can't stop, every dsp genelec you add is +1 into that ecosystem of surround sound GLM room calibrated goodness.

Smart (both from marketing and soundquality/easiness of integration points of view). Integrating subs should be pretty easy with such a thing.

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Why not just get a receiver that has Audyssey?

Yeah the tight subwoofer integration is one of the main selling points of GLM, I wouldn't even try subwoofing without it. Subs are usually a mess that just muddles up the rest of the spectrum. And DSP has its limitations in dealing with modal ringing.
Getting a great room that can handle deep low bass is usually astronomical in cost. There comes a point when you can't sciencedudebro it up with a ton of mineral wool and you have to start looking specifically into helmholtz resonators, steelplate bass traps, e-active bass traps; shit like that.
>researchgate.net/publication/305331134_Myths_and_facts_about_studio_acoustics_-_part_III_Auto-Calibration
"I have to mention the subwoofer. After everything I’ve said in previous articles, if the phase and the level are not properly calibrated, it is probably better not to have a subwoofer. The worse the room acoustic is, the more difficult it is to have proper subwoofer integration. Our ear is so imprecise at LF (remember that at 35Hz listening to a sinusoidal signal, you need 9dB of level change at the audio source to subjectively hear and perceive a level change…) that proper subwoofer integration in a room is not straightforward without measuring equipment. In reality, most subwoofers are totally uncontrolled. In this case auto-calibration (and in particular auto-phase) is really useful."

I used sonarworks before GLM, but it didn't sound as tight genelec's own DSP implementation. I think this is because external box calibration software/hardware aren't doing the dsp *before* the crossover. dsp genelecs are like audio chameleons that blend into the room.

looks like ESS has made new USB audio interface chip. could be better than XMOS

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Hey why don't you all have some sort of wiki or something? I want to get into this kind of stuff but have no idea where to start.

If you built a home theater, would you consider doing it with Genelec?

It's what I'm currently doing, 5.1 setup in process. Only problem is paying retail price, and waiting for certain used genelec pieces to show up without blowing genelec hype up too much. Like now.

If it's better than the XU208 I'm definitely interested. Implementation is critical with all of these chips, though.

linkwitzlab.com/ is a great primer in speakers and acoustics, look under "basics". Theres some mathy maths in there but good layman breakdown too. Also RIP linkwitz
linkwitzlab.com/The_Magic/The_Magic.htm

As for my simple recommendation. Buy wave guide, buy active.

Any plans to go Atmos? What's your 5.1 setup consist of?

Yeah the prices are nuts. All this computer shit makes me nervous too, like when these chips go bad getting replacement parts and such. It's not like a normal speaker in that regard. It would suck to end up years down the road where one amp dies and the replacement parts aren't available so you have a system with a missing leg you can't fix. Genelec is so big probably unlikely, but I'm sure repairs would be expensive too.

>What's your 5.1 setup consist of?
It's currently 2x 8250a and 2x 8260a, I'm waiting for a good deal on a dsp model center channel and subwoofer that would SPL match my 8260a.
>Any plans to go Atmos?
Possibly, I was considering getting something like 5x 8320 + 7370 for now, as a subwoofer and center channel that SPL matches the 8260a is in the $8000+ region retail(HA HA). Then later on if I do find a great deal(s) on say a 8351 I'll implement those 8320s as ceiling surrounds and GLM will take care of that no problemo.
>All this computer shit makes me nervous too, like when these chips go bad getting replacement parts and such...
It's what makes me nervous buying the new high-end DSP monitors from kii, dutch & dutch, etc. They haven't been in the game as long as genelec and are still very much small boutique brands comparatively, at least in the business operations and long term support sense.
>but I'm sure repairs would be expensive too.
groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=67169.msg852648#msg852648
>Genelec will repair but shipping cost and 100.00 to look and then cost of repair. if it the amp chip is bad the service guy said it could be 500.00.
Yeah it's not very cheap. It's also one of the reasons why I buy used, factoring in repair costs. If they break, you pay them a few hundred and you get 'new' speakers back. At the end of the day, you got the same genelecs you would have gotten new but for substantially less. Keep in mind that genelec will service pretty much any speaker they ever made.

Are there any good 1/4 inch to 3.5mm cables that exist?

yes

get one that separates the connectors, like from sennheiser
bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1063702-REG/sennheiser_561035_adapter_plug_for_hd.html

Thanks. Are you running power to each spot in your listening room or using extensions? Is it a dedicated room? What are you using video wise?

Yes, I would feel much more comfortable with Gelenec than a boutique brand.

There is a part of me that wants to go the Meridian route at some point in my life, but their gear is so esoteric and expensive I think Genelec makes more sense.

>Thanks. Are you running power to each spot in your listening room or using extensions?
I have enough power outlets at all corners in the surround room for all speakers, don't need extensions except for long XLR to the rear surrounds (8250a).
>Is it a dedicated room? What are you using video wise?
Yup, 18ftx16x9. I'm still shopping for a TV, waiting for the next generation of 120hz hdmi 2.0 4K TV or nvidia BFGD to be released. I intend for this to be an ebin pc gayming set up too.

Genelec is about as expensive as you can get before you go full retard - thats been my experience with their price in regards to what you get. If you love audio, it's worth it. I took the gen pill, I took the fin pill, and I will never ever go back. Fuck yeah Finland.

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What about getting a projector? An acoustically transparent screen would be great with matching LCRs.

I'm waiting to jump into the 4k tv world too. My new place I don't have a dedicated room or I would probably go the projector route as I have in the past. My new room is going to kinda suck but it'll still be comfy.

Group delay.

"Currently there is insufficient psychoacoustic research on the threshold of group delay at low frequencies. One value is known: 2.5 ms at 100 Hz."
neumann-kh-line.com/neumann-kh/home_en.nsf/root/prof-monitoring_knowledge_faqs_general-answers_question13

"10 ms at 100 hz"
1.5 Cycles Group Delay

So which one is right?

I've thought about a projector too but 120hz is a deciding factor in the display for me, that and the surround room has several large windows which makes controlling lighting a little shitty. It is a financial consideration when factoring in 85"+ screens though, going with a projector would get a much larger screen at far less cost than those 85"+ tv screens.

If 4k120hz projectors ever become a thing that would definitely be up my alley, 60hz almost makes me nauseous. I'm using a 43" lg monitor right now and I'm tolerating it only because the size is so awesome, it's so hard to go back to little displays after using a big boi. GAY

>60hz almost makes me nauseous.
Maximum costanza.jpg

I was thinking something more like this.

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Going back to 60hz after using 120hz is like getting your eyes raped repeatedly for a few days. You get used to it, but you don't want it.

>Sony STRAV290 receiver my parents had laying around. It's a bit noisy and I think the phono preamp sucks.
>Some old bose 201 series 2 bookshelves my parents also had laying around.
>Uturn orbit turntable
>Sennheiser hd558 on the headphone side of things

Hoping to replace it all except the turntable pretty soon. probably the headphones and receiver first.

What's the best way to build my own or select a center channel speaker to match my JBL L100Ts?

Buy another pair of L100T.

as much as I'd love to, that's out of the question

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Interpolation is cancer to begin with. How can you not be bothered by all those inconsistent frames?

Gonna have to ask a jbl forum/group for best timbre matches than

I'm not a true videophile. Audio is about the only thing I can really pay attention to for a long period of time now. Most of my 'watching' is done in a windowed corner of a big screen while I fiddle with other stuff, pic related.
But yeah 60hz is truly cancer and my eyes want to commit suicide every second. Can't give up that screen real estate tho.

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Oh yeah those ratios aren't exact at all in that pic, just approximations.. it's a pretty comfy.

I think 4k 120Hz projectors aren't that far away. 75" 4k tv's are getting cheap, 85" might follow but are still super expensive.

I still think having the sound come through the screen and LCRs all being on plane makes a huge difference, though. So I'm pretty bummed I can't go projector in this new place.

I don't game so the refresh rates don't seem to make much of a difference to me. Most stuff I watch is at 24 or 60fps.

autism

What's this powered by a HTPC?

Normally you try to make your LCRs similar as possible since these are the main speakers. That could be a little hard with an old JBL.
The solution would be some sort of 3-way design. Is that JBL tweeter a direct radiator?

Jow Forums
desktop, i can't tell joke though. i use an ft02, best case ever.

No, it's a titanium dome

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Seems like a super comfy setup.

It's pretty neat, I can't give up that screen estate for anything now. No pedesthitics anymore.

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I mean, is there a shallow horn-shaped flare around the tweeter? Doesn't look like much of one, if any. So why not the used market for L80t/L100t? I see several there.
On a related note: Harman decided to make a new retro-style L100
for some reason. Seems pricey as just a center though.

>is there a shallow horn-shaped flare around the tweeter?
oh, sorry, no there isn't.
>So why not the used market for L80t/L100t?
Mostly because I don't want to spend the money on the pair if I just want a center channel.
>new retro-style L100
Yeah, it's based off the old L100 century - at $4000. You can find the originals for much cheaper than that on the used market.

First for Klipsch efficiency

Unorganized points

To use a speaker, you need a speaker amplifier. Powered speakers have the amplifier built-in, unpowered ones do not. These terms are often used interchangeably with active and passive speakers respectively, but while they usually overlap, they are not the same thing.

General market categories:
>Entry level/mass market
Usually powered, lower cost, emphasizing convenience. Bluetooth, Wi-Fi, Airplay, etc. can be found here.
>Studio monitors
Usually powered and have an input for signal (RCA, TRS, XLR) and one for power. Tends to come in a simple and plain appearance. Trends to a flat sensitivity on-axis, give or take some dB variation. Larger models are still usually stand mounted and tend to be wide.
>Hi-fi/audiophile
Usually not powered and fitted with binding posts (banana plugs, spades). Higher end models have more ornate forms, finishes, polish, etc. Most models tend toward a flat sensitivity, but with many exceptions. Larger speakers usually come in the tower style.
>PA speakers
Compared to similarly size monitor/hifi cabinets, trades deep bass for more sound output. These are for covering large spaces, outdoors, or just lots of sound efficiently. Powered models may be a little noisy for home use. Passives may have binding posts or Speakon connectors.

>Impedance
Amplifiers are voltage sources, so:
- They work more effectively with high-impedance loads.
- Speaker sensitivity is defined by voltage
High-impedance speakers are less sensitive [if anyone asks, see Ohm and Lorentz force laws], but low impedance loads draw more current, which amplifiers may not be able to handle. A speaker with a sudden drop in its impedance may distort at a low sound level near that frequency if driven there. A speaker that dips to 3-4 ohms will be more difficult for the amp to sustain full voltage.

What's a good compact 2.0 or 2.1 speaker setup for $60-80?

I have a small desk and just want something decent enough for games and media.

behringer ms-16

What is the cheapest possible way to get a single channel of coaxial s/pdif into my computer? Most interfaces that include s/pdif also have an bunch of microphone preamps and other shit that I don't need. I've been trying to find a dedicated s/pdif interface and can't find one anywhere. Chinkshit is fine. Linux os so class compliance is also important. Any suggestions?

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Tfw bid sniped on working beolab 4000s at 200$

which input should I use for my fiio x1/ pc?

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looks ugly af

Tape Replay or one of the Radio inputs.

>paying thousands for ugly speakers with hiss

not user but they have impressive specs

>± 1 dB (38 Hz - 20 kHz)

fuck yea, it works

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How should I be using these filters? It sounds better with one of them selected, but it's hard to tell a difference between each one.
The cables are all rubbish though

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no idea if this has been serviced or modified or what

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>Tube amplifier (diy, but not myself).
>Some klipsch bookshelves.
>Getting ME Geithain ME25 this year
>Next year really not sure, maybe some subwoofer or just save money and buy something really good in future. Buying expensive audio stuff where I live is quite a hassle.

I have about a $1000 limit and I was thinking about the Koss ESP950 electrostatics. Never tried them or any electrostats before.
I currently use a pair of ATH MSR7s and have an Audioengine D1 as my DAC/Amp. I'm a bit worried that I'll get dimishing returns in the $400-750 range, especially just with dynamic drivers. I listen to all kinds of music, but especially punk and its subgenres (Post-hardcore, Post-punk, Noise Rock, Shoegaze, Indie Rock, etc.). I also use my headphones while gaming, but that isn't much of a priority at all, just might be worth noting.
The Koss factory store/headquarters is just down the street from me and they have a lifetime warranty on their stuff, so it'd be handy to be able to take in my cans in case something happens and never really need to replace them (for the foreseeable future, until I can get STAX or something). Good idea?

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They are so heavy, not sure if you want to wear that.

The headphones themselves or the whole setup? I know it comes with an Amp and shit.
If you wanna know the whole truth, I'm graduating university this year and my parents are rich. This'll be the last year they'll be buying me shit like this for Christmas, I'm gonna be scraping by in the future, so I wanna get something super nice that'll last for 5+ years, when I have money to burn.

Headphones on your head.
Just get speakers if you have money that could be used in a very nearfield like those coaxial genelecs or something and forget about headphones (that is if you don't want to bother anyone with your music). $10k can buy you speakers that you might enjoy for the rest of your life.

Oops, missed 1000$ limit, just the part where you said your parents are rich.

I live in an apartment building and feel way too self conscious to use speakers. I also have mild hearing loss so I'd have to turn them up really loud.
But I appreciate the input. I'll definitely call up the factory store to see if I can try the headphones to see how they feel.
I was wondering more if there were any other headphones that would be significantly better than the Koss electrostats under $1000.
If it's any consolation, I tend to pace a lot when I listen to music, so it might be preferable to have something I don't need a huge box plugged into the wall.
I guess I don't want to get a pair of headphones that seem like 20-30% better than my current ones. I want something that'll make me go wow and not make me feel like I wasted my parents' money.

If you have hearing loss then you should avoid using headphones at all imo. It is very easy to lose sense of volume on headphones and you will lose even more hearing.

A client gave me these, they sound dope, and im alright with electric guitar electronics, but i'm gonna wait til im sober to look closer what can you tell me about what im looking at in the mean time

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definitely intact.

They do have a soft white noise, louder than any other genelec I've owned, probably because they're one of the oldest GLM models(2006). It's not gross @ 1m but it's there in silence if you pay attention, about the same noise level as my FT02 on quiet w/ noctuas. I paid a little under $2000 for the pair and have no ragretz, it's still the best deal I've gotten in audio, compared to paying $2000 for esoteric headphones I almost cringe at what people are missing out on - it's so so SO far up on another level. That feel when you listen to perfect binaural headphone recordings, it's like that for every good recording on the genelecs.

Any more suggestions?

This, headphones are literally tinnitus machines. 90% of my tinnitus is probably because of heavy headphone use in my young adult years and adolescence.

miccas

Are these good for 500-600€ either used or refurbished?

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>B&O
I can already tell they're form over function trash.

The form is 9/10 for my taste, so even if they sound 8/10 i'm fine with that. After all i coblnsidered those because i don't want to ruin my pretty living room with some ugly fat black boxes
Also i'm no expert but the audiophiles i know irl (who are like 60 yo) all agree that b&o speakers are superb, and this seems to be the consensus even looking at online reviews, why do you think b&o is trash?

>i don't want to ruin my pretty living room
But you'll gladly ruin your pretty ass for some stylish scandi crap init.

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> audiophiles i know irl (who are like 60 yo) all agree that b&o speakers are superb
this is the first warning sign.

Deposit placed. I now own JBL.

Congrats on the watered down m2s

>M2
A little note:
You can buy the drivers and horn as parts, and the filters used are well known at this point.
2216ND-1 offers more bass output than the bass light M2.

I used to have some solid BX5 D2's but they blew out 1 year into use with minimal usage. Gay though the price went up to $300 when I bought them at $200 so I guess they were decent. Could shake a 2 story house though easily. I had isolation pads too.

What jbl and what you replaced with it(or is it your first setup)?

kys Iris

No, i don't like scandi

Alright but do you have anything to support your opinion?

>Buying jbLEL on layaway

Isn't m2 supposed to be used with multiple subs?

4367, its replacing my harbeth setup
actually layaway is very uncommon where i live, i've yet to encounter a dealer who would do layaway. I only put a deposit because I cant accept them until my new amp arrives.
doesnt need, but if you want true infrasonic extension under 20hz youre going to want 2-4 extra subs. if you can afford the m2, you can probably afford subs.
thanks, will definitely be enjoying them 8) what studio monitors do you own then?

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Wait a second, you are the guy that bought harbeth m30.1 a month or so ago and already replacing them? Thats some severe case of gear acquisition syndrome, I tell ya. How many speakers you considered before buying these?

>thanks, will definitely be enjoying them 8) what studio monitors do you own then?
your antagonism against the studio monitor moniker is hilarious. the 4367 is a straight up gimped m2. it's like buying a boxster without a transmission or engine for $60000 instead of a 911 w/ bespoke engine for $80000

But keep on doing on your thang, never listening to people offering advice in the form of cynical banter. We're on a Jow Forums, grow a fucking pair, or mutilate them idk.

harbeth 30.2 actually. and its a long story ive already told but i have a good reason to get the jbl. they've been my end game speaker since before i even bought my first speaker i aint gettin rid of the harbeths because i dont like them, im getting rid of them because i was offered a really good trade in deal for my gear for the jbl, and they are a speaker ive lusted over for like 2 years now. who wouldn't jump on the chance to get their dream piece of kit? not to mention i actually went to audition them twice and fucking loved how they sound.

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>4367, its replacing my harbeth setup
Oh man. Glad they sound good.

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is there anything better than a dt990 for gameing

>>thanks, will definitely be enjoying them 8) what studio monitors do you own then?
>your antagonism against the studio monitor moniker is hilarious. the 4367 is a straight up gimped m2. it's like buying a boxster without a transmission or engine for $60000 instead of a 911 w/ bespoke engine for $80000
>But keep on doing on your thang, never listening to people offering advice in the form of cynical banter. We're on a Jow Forums, grow a fucking pair, or mutilate them idk.

>antagonistic
well ok thats some cute projecting. and thats a really bad analogy. the m2 system would have cost me over $20k more what im paying for my 4367. i never said the m2 isnt the better speaker, it defintely is but its significantly more expensive than the 4367. the 4367 is a very good speaker still. stop talking out of your ass.

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kill yourself.

How does the beolab 6K generate bass? What kind of driver technology does it use?