/pcbg/ PC Building General

>Create a parts list
pcpartpicker.com/
>Learn how to build a PC
Search youtube for a guide for your socket

Want help?
>State your budget & CURRENCY
>List your uses; eg Gaming, Video Editing, VM Work
>For monitors, include purpose and graphics pairing
>NO Speccy. Use HWinfo

CPU
>R3 2200G - Bare minimum gaming(dGPU optional)
>R5 2400G/i5-8400 - Consider IF on sale
>R5 2600/X - Good gaming & multithreaded work use CPUs
>R7 2700/X - Best value high-end CPU on a non-HEDT platform
>Wait for R7 3700X - Surely the best overall and not a massive disappointment like the 9900k
>Threadripper/Used Xeon - HEDT

RAM
>8GB - Enough for most gaming use
>16GB - Standard for heavy use
>32GB - If you have to ask, you don't need this
>CPUs benefit from fast RAM; 2933MHz+ is ideal

Graphics cards
>RTX 2000 cards are worse performance per $ than previous gen
>Avoid cheap MODELS ie MSI Armor (Mk2 is ok), Gigabyte G1/Wf, ASUS dual, and others w/ small heatsinks and low quality fans
1080p
>RX 570/580 w/ Freesync or 1060 6GB - standard 1080p 60fps+ options
>1050 3Gb or RX560 4Gb - lower settings and/or older games
>GTX 1070Ti/Vega 56 - for higher FPS w/ a high hz monitor
1440p
>Vega 56; 1070Ti/1080 if you already have Gsync
>GTX 1080Ti - for higher FPS w/ a high hz monitor
4K
>Upscale from 1620-1800p. Maybe 2080Ti, but awful value.
OpenCL use
>Vega 64

Storage
>Backup before using StoreMi
>Consider getting a larger SSD (better GB/$) instead of small SSD & large HDD
>2TB HDDs are barely more $ than 1TB
>M.2 is a form factor, NOT a performance standard
>NVMe are not for gaming; See "More"

Display
>Consider 75hz minimum; 60hz are mostly old models.
>Always consider FreeSync w/ AMD cards
>PLAN YOUR BUILD AROUND YOUR MONITOR IF GAMING

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Attached: gaymurfaggot.png (599x471, 165K)

Other urls found in this thread:

it.pcpartpicker.com/list/xKZDMZ
pcpartpicker.com/list/DkTxtg
pcpartpicker.com/list/vjzrtg
it.pcpartpicker.com/list/KbKQBb
pcpartpicker.com/list/WyQvmq
pcpartpicker.com/list/9pR9Ft
twitter.com/SFWRedditGifs

Gaymers on suicide watch

so what you're saying is, vegas are the tail end of the mining price balloon and i just have to wait it out a bit longer?

thoughts on buying used components?
what components are okay and which should i absolutely avoid

Making a build with a 1060 and have a 1080p 60hz monitor. Is it worth getting a higher hz monitor or not?

I went for the cheapest possible 6 sata3 port mobo for my new 8600k, so for me it's MSI Z370-A PRO. Now I'm reading about VRM phases and it has 4 compared to my current mobo that has 12 or something. Is that a liability or just marketing shit, because the difference in price is something like 50€ and a part of that includes shit like gaming paintjobs and rgb memes.

Also do I just wait and buy a 9600k instead? Probably gonna be a month until my backwoods country even gets its next batch of 8600k's

>faggot OP making new thread when the old one is on page 3
>I samefag now

>which should i absolutely avoid

PSUs and HDDs. Rest is fine.

this may belong in the stupid questions thread, but I just built a PC, and now I need a key for windows. Anyone know any good sites or ebay sellers that won't scam you?

Go check them out IRL in stores and see if it's worth it for you, make sure they're running some high FPS content.

>play around with pcpartpicker to make builds i'd like to make
>remember that new games are terrible and all i'd do with it is shitposting, writing bad python scripts and watch videos

Saves a bunch of money.

Well it's more is my 1060 even going to perform well enough to get a higher hz monitor?

Just leave it unactivated.

Go to local computer shop, ask for any laptops/desktop they are recycling or throwing away and then install using the license on the case. Run windows 10 update assistant to upgrade to 10 then do a factory reset to remove 7 traces.

yeah but the watermark is annoying and all my friends are moralfags

why is speccy such a piece of shit.
It says my cpu is at 70C yet my motherboard and rysen master both report it at 42C.
I can;t trust any of the temp readings on it at all

I'd cross the border and spend a nice weekend in the US if I wanted the Vega. Given you live close enough.
Otherwise getting a 1070(ti) seems like a nice thing to do. especially if you have a 1080p144Hz. high refresh rates help hide tearing. at 1440p a Vega would be better yes.

hwinfo > speccy

I have two old pcs I want to use as servers, but I dont want to deal with their gaymen tier huge cases. Is putting them in a cardboard box a sustainable solution?

Someone in the last thread recommended a Vega 56 to me, but looking on newegg.ca's site im seeing Vega 64's for less than some 56's. Why would I not get a 64 over a 56?

i mostly just need something to replace my ailing 290, so i think i'd be okay with a sapphire RX580 and hand it down to my gf's pc when vega comes back down
i do game at 1080/120 and i've got no problem dropping details to hit that, it's just not viable now because i had to set my 290's power limit to -20% and even overwatch on lowest isn't hitting 120hz now

I have one, it's fine for what you look for.
Make sure you get a 8GB one so that the card will last you both for maybe 4-5 years easy.

that's the plan
is the sapphire nitro+ worth the money over other brands and models? a lot of the high end ones seem to plateau on clocks, so maybe the cooler is what makes it worth it?

Yes, the cooler is the big plus. Never observed over 80°C on mine. As you said, the clock speeds are more or less the same all over.

awesome, i think they're in stock nearby so i'll grab one today, always a sucker for good coolers to keep temps down, and noise since i stream
thanks for the help user

Was it confirmed that the latest Nvidia driver (4## something) is gimping performance in a bunch or games, or did that get fixed?

You could save like $500 CAD total on Vega56 and a Freesync monitor in the US. That would easily pay for a weekend, no? Like said.
If not getting a monitor as well, probably not worth it

it's worth getting a 75hz monitor. There's only a handful of games which are locked to 60hz, and if you're seeing a problem you can just downclock the monitor to 60.
Why 1060 though? They've been too expensive lately from what I've seen.

I plugged in the extra 4 pin 12v connector needed for my taichi x399 but I can't get it out anymore.
The little piece of plastic you have to press in order to release the connector gets blocked by the metal bar right next to it.
How can I remove it? Am I really forced to break the connector?

Why the fuck won't it turn on

Attached: IMG_20181018_194212_870.jpg (1280x720, 93K)

Enjoy your housefire

I live in a flat actually

Gee, I wonder why.

Lmao they just tend to be stiff when new. Stop being a basedboy.

Probably because it's 15 years old

Turn it back nigger

I literally am wondering why though, it's all plugged in correctly

Enjoy your flat fire

how can fire be flat lol

Do I need a Rayzen 7 ?
I want to make games in Unity and make some modeling and animation in Blender.
Maybe some 2D animation too.

why do gamers buy expensive gtx 1080ti's and intel core i9's, but they never mine crypto when they AFK or sleep?

Daily reminder for those wanting to use the ryzen APU's as a single gaming unit for any length of time:
There tends to be a frequency black hole between like 1300mhz and 1500mhz. So I'd say just go for 1500mhz if you can't hit anything lower. I couldn't get to 1400mhz at 1.2v soc/gfx, but now i'm sitting at 1500mhz stable with 1.162v, so there ya go.
The highest you should take it is 1.2v, try to keep it below if possible.

Additionally, monitor your CPU frequency and voltage after any iGPU overclocking, as in some cases, precision boost will go completely haywire and literally put your CPU on a suicide path in terms of voltage and temps. I had to turn off precision boost because my RAM OC isn't stable with a CPU OC (Something else to watch for if overclocking your RAM), and allowing my CPU go boost itself caused it to hit 3.9ghz on all cores and go over 1.5V for long periods of time. But that might just be my motherboard being shit, so YMMV

Because unlike the US govement, they don't believe in printing money

better than the alternatives (r5 and intel)

You don't NEED one, no. But whether it's worth it to you really depends on mostly your budget, as well as which programs you'll use most and how many cores they make use of.
If you have highly threaded workloads and would personally benefit from having them finish faster, then go for it. But if your budget could use a breather, a Ryzen 5 will do just fine, albeit a bit slower, for much less money

Give me a hand /pcbg/: I've made this preliminary build it.pcpartpicker.com/list/xKZDMZ (I've intentionally not chosen a GPU yet).
Budget is in the neighborhood of 1600€, target resolution is 1080p. Could you please help me refine this build?

>Budget
$1300 USD hard budget
>Uses
Pretty much strictly gaming.I usually have a game running along with a web browser and some kind of voice chat software so I'd need to be able to have those in the background as well. It would be nice to have the ability to stream/record gameplay too, but that is not a priority. I just want the best gaming experience possible.
>Monitor
I will need to purchase one but I'm not too sure what I want here. I was hoping to maybe get into the 1440p territory but 1080p would probably be fine. I'm not focused on any kind of professional graphics or color reproduction, just games at 60+ fps with all of the eye candy.
I need something fairly small as I will be moving soon and the computer and monitor should be able to fit into a suitcase. I'm not sure how much smaller ITX is than micro ATX but that is what I have played around with so far. I have heard that intel is traditionally better for gaming but I would be open to some of the new Ryzen chips. Because I'd like something compact I'll have heat and air circulation concerns so I have tried to incorporate that into my build so far. If I need to completely change things up though I am willing. Here is what I have so far.
pcpartpicker.com/list/DkTxtg

Some people have to pay for electricity, you know?

looks like a great build. i wouldn't use a crucial SSD, though. the read/write speeds are awful. 560 mb/s read is not even 1 gb/s. look for samsung evo sata SSD for 500 gb so you'll say in your price range. if you go with the m2 drive you might as well use a spinning hard disk at 7200 rpm. always, always check read/write speeds when purchasing hard drives.

Nobody really NEEDS more than dual cores amirite?

You probably destroyed it by putting it on a static filled towel like a dumbass.
Also put your fucking fan back on your cooler.

>pcpartpicker.com/list/DkTxtg
Pretty inefficient use of your budget
Here is roughly the same gaming performance for $800 which leaves room to get a 1440p 144hz IPS monitor and still be within budget since you said you need to purchase one.
>pcpartpicker.com/list/vjzrtg

lmao? What terrible advice 500mb/s+ is more than enough that the SSD isn't going to be the bottleneck for any read/write operations in software. Only makes a difference if you spend much of your week transferring from one equally fast drive to another.

Wouldn't hurt. 2700 is as cheap as like $250 and is worth it if you can actually make use of those cores.
I imagine you'd be doing your rendering on the GPU, though.

it.pcpartpicker.com/list/KbKQBb

>Lmao they just tend to be stiff when new. Stop being a basedboy.
It's stuck, see pic.

Attached: IMG_20181018_212928.jpg (2752x2064, 1.91M)

>it.pcpartpicker.com/list/xKZDMZ (I've intentionally not chosen a GPU yet).
>Budget is in the neighborhood of 1600€, target resolution is 1080p
Why are you spending so much money on 1080p?

it's not stuck. You're just not lifting the clip far enough away.

>loud ass Gigabyte GPU
cringe

ugh. the transfer rates directly affect how long it takes to install programs. why not get a 500 gb drive that's the same price through a sata interface? the m2 speed doesn't help out that much with such a slow drive. if you're spending money you should always get the best bang for the buck. why are you telling people slower drives are better is beyond me. you can get a samsung drive for the same price that's 500 gb on a sata connector that transfers a gig/second i think

Find a better 1080 then in that price range, my dude.

>ugh. the transfer rates directly affect how long it takes to install programs
Hardly, retard.
Most of that time is decompression, assigning directories, and so on.

How much time of your fucking week do you spending "installing programs" anyway? You have to be fucking trolling.

You'll pretty much always see advantage @ 144 Hz. Just drop some retarded settings and it'll be okay.

This is a troll post, in case you don't understand anything in computers.

Here is my tier list of used stuff:
Tier 1: non-K Intel CPUs, RAM
Tier 2: CPUs
Tier 3: Stress tested GPUs
Don't even think about it tier: PSUs, storage

I mostly chose that drive because of the small form factor. I figured m.2 would be nicer just because there would be less cables floating around and potentially disturbing airflow.
I'm not set on one particular make of processor. I'd go Intel or AMD. The games I'm wanting to play are lots of early access titles and things of that nature because I'm retarded and masochistic. I had heard that titles like that are typically smoother on intelvidia so thats what I chose.

Go for 64 if its cheaper of course

>calls it a troll post
>says the exact same thing

The drive you chose is fine. Although the S55 is cheaper. Only decent thing about the build, really. You were already linked a good build.

You can get Vega56 for $370. Not sure where you're seeing a cheaper 64.

But even if 64 is the same price... clock-for-clock they perform the same, while those 8 extra idle CUs on the 64 still consume extra power.

Thanks. Is the fifty bucks of difference between ryzen and coffee lake worth it? Wait, yesterday when I checked /pcbg/ OP coffee lake was between the suggested CPU, now it's just AMD. I'm really confused right now.

>Why are you spending so much money on 1080p?
Futureproofing, basically.

Nice trips. Anyway I was also thinking about buying a used GPU: 1080ti go for less than 600€ nowadays.

I'm buying a 2700X, which cooler (air or AIO) and PSU should I get?

I'll most likely end up with a 2070 or 2080, depending on which one actually exist

2700X has a very capable stock cooler
Seasonic for PSU

>muh wasting money for worse price performance compared to the future because that's somehow future proofing
Futureproofing = Saving money so you can buy $300 Navi card next range that'll be better than the 1080 and not lose 10% of FPS when you get your future HDR monitor, not wasting money on a useless NVMeme, and not buying a dead socket motherboard which limits your upgrade options to other 14nm CPUs.

Just get a 2600/X, RX580, fast SSD, and you have money left over to buy an HDR monitor *now*.

Being cheapest and shitty doesn't make it a good option.

I have all my new shit except the CPU and I want to test out if it even works. can I just connect the psu to the motherboard and see if either of them work? don't suppose there's any way to see if the ram works?

I don't want to wait because I'm gonna have to dismantle my current build because I'm reusing at least the case and the gpu

>PSUs
Why not PSUs ?

But what if I overclock? That thing will probably kill itself

You could just leave XFR2 to do its thing.

Artic Freezer 13 or whatever. It's a bit better than the H7 for cheaper, though I'm not sure if a second fan can be added (don't think so)

Or Artic 33. It's apparently as quite as the Noctua NH-U14S, about 20% worse in cooling but that's still plenty compared to how good the NH-U14S, and costs about half as much.
Also Artic fans have a nice pitch to them which sounds a lot quieter than the dBA would suggest.
Seems to be the best 120mm cooler you can get for the price.

Uhh depends on board kinda.
Like AFAIK the new MSI boards (at least the B450M Mortar and B450 Tomahawk) do boot to BIOS without a CPU at least for BIOS updating. So you can test by doing a BIOS update.

Are you even getting a board which allows a BCLK OC to begin with? Otherwise it's pointless. Even if you are, I know some Anons have done a BCLK OC on the stock cooler with a negative voltage offset to keep it cool.

Because they degrade over time and you don't know how much shit (dust, animal hair, nicotine) accumulated.

desu I bought a not-so used Corsair psu for for dirt cheap, opened it up to clean all the dust before building my pc and haven't gotten any issues so far.

newegg.ca
non-blower 56's are $710-800
Gigabyte Gaming OC-8GD 64 is on sale for $674

r9/h8 my medium-low level CAD/Rendering build:
pcpartpicker.com/list/WyQvmq
The NVME drive is on purpose, I need fast local storage, everything else is on the NAS, I might add a HDD later though.
Not really sold on the case, a bit expensive and the window sucks but otherwise it looks fine to me.
I need certified drivers for some of the programs so I chose the cheapest one that can still keep up. The Radeon will be joined by a high end Nvidia card in the near future, probably an RTX model or even the old Titan V if I get a good deal (hence the oversized PSU).
Should I maybe go with a HEDT platform to begin with? 8 cores seems plenty to me and the frequency looks decent too. I thought all Ryzens supported ECC memory?

My PC is set up like pic related, is this fine? Will the hot air from the fan warm up the PSU? I can also add a fan in the red space but Im not sure if it should be intake our outtake

Attached: fwerj;klhwdfghjkl.jpg (1180x867, 57K)

So how do you power up your PC without a PSU ?

What's better for ryzen gaming, 3200MHz CL12 or 3466 CL13?

Are you baiting?

I mean green not red

No, but I wonder why the other user said to avoid the PSUs.
So how does a computer can be powered without it ?

I've been wanting to build a PC with the help of my father, who knows his way around putting a PC together but isn't too keen on what hardware to buy. I hope I can get some advice here.

>build your gaming PC around your monitor
I've no need for more than 1080p and 60hz to enjoy my games and if that means cheaper hardware then that's nice. My brother is an AMD shill and tells me to buy a 2600 ryzen CPU and a friend of mine tells me that a GTX 1070 or a 1080 should suffice for my GPU needs for some years with a screen like that.

How much bullshit have I been told and what else do I need to know?
Thanks for helping a retard.

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Question
>Should I buy used parts?
Answers
>In general yes, but avoid used psu, storage and stress tested parts

Lacking reading comprehension can be a sign of all sorts of issues

2600 and 1070/1080 is enough for 1080p 60hz gaming

>trying to disconnect ATX cables from the motherboard
fucking god damn christ I swear this board is gonna snap in half any second now

Will it be for the next three to five years? On higher graphics options of course.

pcpp says there is the Vega56 Pulse for $640 CA.

Your NAS has NVMeme as well?

>I thought all Ryzens supported ECC memory?
Only on a board that does (most/all ASRock and ASUS do iirc)

>Should I maybe go with a HEDT platform to begin with
I'd just save now and upgrade to 3700X later as it's expected to be 20-35% higher performance overall.

Whichever has the lowest true latency.

I don't like cases which have the PSU intake fan right above the hot CPU, but sure it's fine...

pcpartpicker.com/list/9pR9Ft
Or that Silicon Power S55 SSD which is only like $1 more for 3D SLC NAND instead of 3D MLC NAND.
B450M Mortar instead if you want the better audio and optical audio connector.
Lots of 1080p 75hz IPS monitors for around $90.

lol

Back when 4 cores were considered high-end, most people were fine with 2

Doesn't ryzen infinity fabric run off RAM MHz(half)?
Is the boost to infinity fabric from 1600mhz to 1733mhz not worth going down from 0.0075 to 0.007501442585?

Wait until you have it, OC it with the stock cooler and see how far can you push it, if you're not comfortable with said OC and temps buy an aftermarket cooler

I'm getting netpacket loss from my tower. It's not the service because it doesn't happen with my other devices. What could be fucking up, and what's a good replacement for it/those pieces?

>Doesn't ryzen infinity fabric run off RAM MHz(half)?
It does but the bandwidth bottleneck largely disappears at around 2800-2933MHz and it sees no gains past there except for gains in true memory latency just like how Intel CPUs get gains from lower true latency.

Neat, so last question
0.0075 at 1.51V or 0.007501442585 at 1.46V

What's the cheapest motherboard to overclock a r5 2600 non x?

Attached: starshipt-1.png (1578x1200, 2.97M)

Dont overclock on a cheap mobo

How are Zotac video cards?
Zotac GTX 1080 for $600 CAD (460usd) a good deal?

>Futureproofing = Saving money so you can buy
That's what I did with my current system. Turns out that the money I saved up were later redirected towards more pressing matters, so the update was bumped indefinitely in the future. I have the economic availability now, so I better get the best I can now, because in the future I just might not be able to upgrade..

What do you guys think about vega 64?

What's the cheapest good overclocking mobo for the 2600?

Any that costs atleast $150

>Any that costs atleast $150
Might as well get an intel then.
Anyone know which cheap mobo has good vrms, and short traces?