/pcbg/ PC Building General

>Create a parts list
pcpartpicker.com/
>Learn how to build a PC
Search youtube for a guide for your socket

Want help?
>State your budget & CURRENCY
>List your uses; eg Gaming, Video Editing, VM Work
>For monitors, include purpose and graphics pairing
>NO Speccy. Use HWinfo

CPU
>R3 2200G - Bare minimum gaming(dGPU optional)
>R5 2400G/i5-8400 - Consider IF on sale
>R5 2600/X - Good gaming & multithreaded work use CPUs
>R7 2700/X - Best value high-end CPU on a non-HEDT platform
>Wait for R7 3700X - Surely the best overall and not a massive disappointment like the 9900k
>Threadripper/Used Xeon - HEDT

RAM
>8GB - Enough for most gaming use
>16GB - Standard for heavy use
>32GB - If you have to ask, you don't need this
>CPUs benefit from fast RAM; 2933MHz+ is ideal

Graphics cards
>RTX 2000 cards are worse performance per $ than previous gen
>Avoid cheap MODELS ie MSI Armor (Mk2 is ok), Gigabyte G1/Wf, ASUS dual, and others w/ small heatsinks and low quality fans
1080p
>RX 570/580 w/ Freesync or 1060 6GB - standard 1080p 60fps+ options
>1050 3Gb or RX560 4Gb - lower settings and/or older games
>GTX 1070Ti/Vega 56 - for higher FPS w/ a high hz monitor
1440p
>Vega 56; 1070Ti/1080 if you already have Gsync
>GTX 1080Ti - for higher FPS w/ a high hz monitor
4K
>Upscale from 1620-1800p. Maybe 2080Ti, but awful value.
OpenCL use
>Vega 64

Storage
>Backup before using StoreMi
>Consider getting a larger SSD (better GB/$) instead of small SSD & large HDD
>2TB HDDs are barely more $ than 1TB
>M.2 is a form factor, NOT a performance standard
>NVMe are not for gaming; See "More"

Display
>Consider 75hz minimum; 60hz are mostly old models.
>Always consider FreeSync w/ AMD cards
>PLAN YOUR BUILD AROUND YOUR MONITOR IF GAMING

Previous
More
rentry.co/pcbg-more

Attached: 18core2000.jpg (1549x682, 398K)

Other urls found in this thread:

pcpartpicker.com/user/WritersBlah/saved/HLTFt6
pcpartpicker.com/list/4dv7ZR
amazon.com/GIGABYTE-GA-AB350-Gaming-Fusion-HDMI1-4-Motherboard/dp/B06VWHXK94
pcpartpicker.com/list/NzdTNQ
reddit.com/r/Amd/comments/96vkn4/sapphire_vega_56_pulse_with_64_bios/e43wexs/
anandtech.com/show/12720/amd-1841-driver-brings-beta-playready-30-support-for-polaris-support-for-vega-gpus-apus-still-to-come
tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/lg_34gk950f.htm
pcpartpicker.com/products/case-fan/#p=1&sort=price&l=46
amazon.com/dp/B07HK5XKBT/ref=emc_b_5_t
amazon.com/DEEPCOOL-RF120-3X120mm-Extension-Compatible/dp/B074P19HSL/ref=sr_1_50?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1539920942&sr=1-50&keywords=rgb fans&refinements=p_36:-15000
amazon.com/Standard-Controller-Exwin-Adjustable-Radiators/dp/B07G9F33J2/ref=sr_1_17?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1539920744&sr=1-17&keywords=rgb fans&refinements=p_36:-15000#customerReviews
twitter.com/SFWRedditGifs

First for ignore the paid AMD shill recommending the abortion that is Vega

>skylake-x 2.0

Third for ignore the paid AMD shill recommending the abortion that is Ryzen

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>Display
Consider one with Motion blur reduction technology. Also might be known as Black Frame Insertion or LightBoost and so on.

Makes the motion extra smooth/clear by speeding up the "hold/release" portion of the LCD image retention.

It kills colour vibrancy which is shitty. It might look nice for fast paced high framerate shooters but for everything else backlight strobing is trash. Even on VA panels which has insane contrast levels which is still high even with backlight strobing activated it suppresses the colours.

Why are you posting a new thread well before the bump limit? KYS retarded amd poojet

That was the problem with the rudimentary implementation, where the screen would be slightly dim. But the modern advanced implementation compensate by increasing the LED intensity when they're are activated. This keeps the screen light same as before but with the addition of clarity.

got the 2600x after winning a gift card. didnt have enough for a after market cooler but the stock wraith is pretty good. wondering if h5 or some noctura one would show much difference for 4ghz

noctuas are good stuff

If you care about aesthetics at all Noctua are releasing their BLACKED.COM editions early 2019. If you don't care, then a Noctua is definitely a good choice.

be quiet! looks better in black.

Is 340 bucks decent for a used EVGA 1070 SC in leafshit land?

I want to play Ace Combat 7 and Cities Skylines with a ton of mods well.

Attached: a.png (1269x729, 135K)

I agree, I just forgot to mention them. They're a great good looking option you can go for right now without waiting.

I'd say so.

ALL HAIL KING PAJEET

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16gb is enough for 1400 mods in skylines

I have 8GB on my current machine and it absolutely chugs to load maps and then sits on a mountain of RAM until its closed.

That's why I have 32gb RAM since I hoard mods and assets
Still chugging along at 22 FPS in my 879k pop city

Hahaha, looks like a dude that sells knicknacks in the street around the block from my apartment.

Attached: top-hue-gold.jpg (223x226, 8K)

10: 13, 10/13/2018 Have you been licking? The actor? Empirical? Dogeza? Florida? 10: 21 Rebound?
9: 53 Reset? Mombid? 10: 04 Hijikata? 10: 09 Empire? 10: 10 Zoid (biological metal fox?)
9: 15, Dogeza? Kaitake (poison mushroom)? 9: 40 Interfax communication? Apartheid? Ebenki ?? Empir?
Dau-ragiri? Muraisaki Tadashi Dogeza ??

At 8:45 on October 19, 2018, thinking for your brother for a moment! Pleasure arises from the sacrum! Are you happy? ▲ Thinking in? Raptor?
Kaga? Empirical? Dogeza? Sense of nostrils spreading! Mombid? Is it no better with the baby 's voice?

>NVMeme for gaming
Cringe
>$380 for a 1070
Even cringier. You can get Vega56 for less than that when it's 20% more performant.
>spending more for 2400MHz RAM than 3200MHz costs
Seriously, what the hell are you doing? How'd you stumble into these bad choices? You could have looked at other's builds from the previous thread or something for a starting point.

what should I upgrade?

Attached: Capture.png (510x384, 20K)

1500X->2600 and overclock your RAM and GPU? Would think you could wait for Zen2 next year, though.
I think you missed the $120 R5 2600 sale, as well.

So my prebuilt fried due to a thunderstorm, but it was fortunately under warranty, so I managed to get all of my money back. Trying to build my own PC to save on cash. Here are my qualifications:

>Under $700 USD
>Primarily used for gaming, video editing, and 2D game dev work (GameMaker Studio)
>Resolution will be capped at 1366x768, due to my monitor

Here's my current build: pcpartpicker.com/user/WritersBlah/saved/HLTFt6

yeah i guess i can wait for zen 2

Yeah, those prebuilts tend to have terrible PSUs.
Meanwhile even my Rosewill PSU survived a powerful 1500W+ surge which melted the power cable.

Are you sure nothing is salvagable from your current PC?

pcpartpicker.com/list/4dv7ZR is what I'd do with your $700 budget. 50% more powerful GPU there and a better PSU.

Wait for 7nm for both cpu and gpu, stick with amd like a true patriot. You could probably use faster ram, though. You could use a SSD and a second monitor, too...

are there any cases small like the xbox one s/x?

apparently you can buy the shell of the xbox one s/x from people and then you can custom make mounts for pc gear, etc. but would rather have an out of the box case if possible.

Yes, there are many.

..and they are?

Will I be able to OC a Ryzen 2 chip on my B350 mobo or will I have to get a new one?

Something like an ITX system into a Fractal Node 202 would fit the bill. That case is basically made to look like an OEM gaming console.

Depends on a few things, but the short answer is yes. You will be able to overclock a Ryzen 2 on a B350. It's worth mentioning which specific board you have though and which CPU you have in mind.

It's not so much a question of whether anything's salvageable; I have to return the full PC to get my money back.

Also, just a few questions about your part choices. Firstly, do you think the processing power trade-off is worth it if I would be working with game dev tools? And secondly, I dunno if the SSD vs mechanical drive space trade-off is in my interests.

amazon.com/GIGABYTE-GA-AB350-Gaming-Fusion-HDMI1-4-Motherboard/dp/B06VWHXK94

if there's a r5 3600 then that one

Presuming the power requirements of a 7nm 3600 are even lower than that of the 1600 and 2600, then it should be fine.

XG2402 or VG248QE???

This is literally the only, and I mean only possible scenario where I would actually recommend a Ryzen.

AMD shills got shook when /pcbg/ took the fight to them, now AMD shills break rules by making early threads just to prevent /pcbg/ from putting Intel in the OP.

vega 56 hynix memory, can only get to 845 hbm, fml with this shitty lottery

>want to build new PC
>need a pre-digested look on CPUs to know what to research further
>half the CPU options are actually wiped out because the thread is made by either an AMD or an Intel shill that can't support seeing some product other than their own on a fucking pc building guide
I fucking hate you niggers, grow up and stop getting so disgustingly partisan over consumer shit

intel shills don't make the op

amdrones have taken over /pcbg/

the only time intel cpus were in the op was a few days ago because people were sick of amdrones taking their r/amd garbage to this general

in response amdrones started making early threads to they'll push their amd op

mods should rangeban shills

>Half the CPU options are actually wiped out
No? 8700K is expensive as of right now. 9th gen also have a very bad value too.

If what you care is gayming, then just use i5-8400. i5 8400 is also on the list if you didn't read it.

Vega is OK for the prices now and if you're already locked into freesync.
If you don't have freesync, you're better off with nVidia.

like you?
>reddit spacing

I need a mouse recommendation.
I have 8" hand length, would like something made for palm grip, wired, 5 buttons minimum, don't care about lights.
Sometimes I do some casual gaymen, but most of the time I'm in cad/cg environments.

I really want to dual boot Mac and Windows. I'll mainly be using at for school work and later on actual work, watching movies, and like Minecraft or some shit maybe Doom. What should I be looking for power wise? Do I need a fuck ton of ram or is 8-16 okay, if I have a terabyte of storage and only 8 gigs of ram will it run like shit, can I settle for a 4th gen processor, tf is the difference between AMD and Intel, graphics card? Yes I know I am retarded that's why I'm seeking the help of the Jow Forumsays :^)

Was gonna buy this but I didn't get an answer in the sqt and if I don't have to blow $1400 then I'd rather not:

2.3GHz dual-core 7th-generation Intel Core i5 processor, Turbo Boost up to 3.6GHz
16GB 2133MHz DDR4
1TB Fusion Drive
Intel Iris Plus Graphics 640

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2000 series is a hell of a lot better for gaming.
If your game dev tools has a compiler, the 1700X will compile slightly faster, but meh. I don't think you'll speed a significant time with that to offset the benefits of the 2000 series even if you're losing 2 cores.
>And secondly, I dunno if the SSD vs mechanical drive space trade-off is in my interests.
You can stretch you budget a bit and get a 1TB HD for around $150.

>If you don't have freesync, you're better off with nVidia.
How's the fuck is that true?
Vega56+1440p 144hz IPS monitor = $680
1070Ti+1440p 144hz Gsync monitor = ~$1000
Might be true in Canada, but no where else.

So you want to build a hackintosh?

the 8400 is 269 dollars right now compared to 149 for the r5 2600

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Why are you including the price of a monitor?

nVidia does terrible at 2d. See passmark.

So I'm looking for an Ryzen/RX580 ITX build. My budget is around 1500ish burgerbucks and it's going to be used for gaming/emulation. Any suggestions? (and I want ITX because I'm limited on desk space)

Is that what it's called? Then yes I do. I just really don't know what I'll need and I don't want to overkill ya know. The easiest way to go though seemed to be just buying a Mac and then installing Windows through an app. I'd rather build a PC however. I also don't really know how I would install MacOS on a PC?

Let’s say I want to play doom on this build, can it be done?
pcpartpicker.com/list/NzdTNQ

>$1500US
>RX580 and Ryzen
Yeah I think you'll be fine lol. Can I ask what dimensions you've got for space on your desk, because unless your space limitations are very extreme, I'd really recommend going micro atx instead.

So you just need a small footprint?
Get the Thermaltake G3 or the Phanteks Evolv Shift.

>pcpartpicker.com/list/NzdTNQ
>$1200 for a 1050Ti full ATX build
Cringiest thing I've seen in a while.

Not even that guy, but because a monitor is a very important part of viewing the graphical output of a computer.
I'll add the Vega56 isn't really a 1070ti competitor unless it comes with Samsung manufacturered memory (which there hasn't been Samsung equipped V56 for quite some time that I know of) and cops a 64 bios flash. Otherwise it's squarely in 1070 territory.
But then free/G-sync more or less compensate for gpu performance anyway.
Me personally, I just bought a second hand 1080ti for high refresh 1440p and aim for graphics settings that maintain close to 90fps minimums, although I'd have been just as happy to stumble on a cheap Vega 64 for mah freesync. Fuck paying for G-sync.

It's the only excuse they have. The resident retarded shill always does this. He loves to pretend everyone is buying a new monitor with their GPU upgrade. He loves to think people care about variable refresh rate over raw GPU performance for their favourite games.

Daily reminder for those wanting to use the ryzen APU's as a single gaming unit for any length of time:
There tends to be a frequency black hole between like 1300mhz and 1500mhz. So I'd say just go for 1500mhz if you can't hit anything lower. I couldn't get to 1400mhz at 1.2v soc/gfx, but now i'm sitting at 1500mhz stable with 1.162v, so there ya go.
The highest you should take it is 1.2v, try to keep it below if possible.

Additionally, monitor your CPU frequency and voltage after any iGPU overclocking, as in some cases, precision boost will go completely haywire and literally put your CPU on a suicide path in terms of voltage and temps. I had to turn off precision boost because my RAM OC isn't stable with a CPU OC (Something else to watch for if overclocking your RAM), and allowing my CPU go boost itself caused it to hit 3.9ghz on all cores and go over 1.5V for long periods of time. But that might just be my motherboard being shit, so YMMV

You can BIOS flash Hynix AIB cards and get equivolant memory OCs. So that's not true anymore. Hasn't been true for almost a year.
It's only reference Vega56 which have to have Samsung HBM to be flashed.

You’re not at the level to build a hackintosh yet. It takes tons of work. Imagine a six month project for you to get a computer built. Probably longer since you don’t know what drivers are yet probably either. Just buy a Mac or build a pc and in the meantime research it if that project sounds really interesting. Also be realistic come on man

Not that extreme. I currently have the Thermaltake Verna N21 case and it's almost too big for my desk.

Yeah. I'll look into your suggestions.Thank you user.

dammmmn. What makes it so difficult?? Am I even too retarded to just buy the pre-built Mac and install Windows through Boot Camp? It didn't really seem all that difficult. Depressing :'(

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>You can BIOS flash Hynix AIB cards and get equivolant memory OCs. So that's not true anymore.
Any source on that? Only results I've ever found is stuff like Strix and Aorus V56 almost always (apart from a few early release versions) have Hynix, and won't accept any versions of a 64 bios,of which all are equipped with Samsung AFAIK.
More than happy to eat humble pie if you know otherwise.

Same guy as But thanks for the advice user. I'll likely just build and work hard to be able to do a Hackintosh one day :)

>Thermaltake Verna N21
OK well if you can fit that but want to downsize a bit then I think Micro ATX would be a much better choice than Mini ITX. You're just going to be so limited with expandability with the latter, CPU cooling options will be worse, and they're just such a cramped pain in the ass to work on. I'm honestly not versed on what the best micro ATX cases are, bu the Fractal Design Meshify C Mini might be good. I know the ATX has great airflow when it's loaded with fans. I like the styling on it, too.
As for guts, right now the r5 2600 overclocked is just such a no-brainer. The value is so damn high. Regarding GPU, you should wait for AMD's refreshes which shouldn't be too far away. A 12nm 680 will likely be a nice little step forward from a 580.

I don't want you to feel stupid or feel discouraged against pursuing the hackintosh project, I just want you to know what it involves. Hackintosh basically involves "faking out" the Mac OS. How do you do this? You have to edit a lot of drivers manually on your own for the machine to work so it reads everything as coming from Apple, even though you put it together. What happens then? Your hardware choices are severely limited. Also, everyone in the hackintosh community has a really different build, so finding help for your specific build is really difficult. There's no official support for hackintosh either, and you're relying on tonymacx86 to guide you through the process. Also, hackintosh systems aren't stable and updating them or replacing their hardware can become a big project. So, as a new builder who probably doesn't know their software or hardware very well yet, and you want your PC building experience to be something like plugging in a USB to your favorite hardware and everything getting prepared and buttoned up automatically by the installer so you can immediately start gaming or whatever hackintosh is not a good fit for you. I did it for a few years and honestly it is a big pain in the ass if you want you use your computer to meet deadlines, know what I mean?

This makes perfect sense. I just thought it would be a super cool thing to do but obviously didn't know how much work and experience it took. Even if I did know my shit the pain of it all seems to out way the pros by a shit ton and quite honestly now I'd rather not even bother. I'll probably just keep my Mac Mini and start a PC build. I've helped my friends build a few and have been learning a lot about building them. Thank you for explaining user you've been a great help! Now to start lookong into building my first PC :)

Lots of people seem to have success flashing Vega64 Nitro BIOs onto 2 of the generally cheapest Vega56 cards, the Pulse. I've heard the same for the Red Dragon, flashing it to the Nitro+ BIOS, but I can't find that source anymore.
Here's one source of Hynix Vega56 Pulse flashed with the Samsung Vega 65 Nitro+ flash: reddit.com/r/Amd/comments/96vkn4/sapphire_vega_56_pulse_with_64_bios/e43wexs/ I've seen a few others.

Anyway, some people have flashed Hynix cards to Vega64 BIOS. It then reports Samsung as memory in GPU-Z because that's what the BIOS reports, even though they have Hynix HBM.
Some Vega64 AIB cards have been shipping with Hynix memory which report Samsung HBM when they're not. That's just what the BIOS says. It's not simply having Samsung HBM or not which dictates whether it accepts a BIOS which says Samsung HBM or not.

And even if you can't Vega64 BIOS flash, improved Hynix memory yields (which is why they're being used in V64 now days...) allow hitting decently high memory clocks even with a Vega56 memory power limit. I've seen a good deal of people hitting 945MHz memory clock (or higher) that Vega64 has stock with their Hynix BIOS cards.
It's expected to hit Vega64 reference performance from a Vega56 AIB card or GTX 1080 just on the stock BIOS. It's just to hit near overclocked Vega64 LC performance, you DO need a higher memory voltage limit as going from 945MHz->1080MHz can get you about 8-10% higher FPS.

Do Ryzen CPUS support 4k BluRay Disc playback yet?
Would like to try the 2400g for an htpc, but not if it doesn't support 4k BD.

Thanks for the link, will check it out later.

>Vega 56 20% faster than 1070
AMDonkey detected.

t. intel shill OP.

This is a DRM issue. Which DRM do you actually need support for?

It's the same reason that Raven Ridge didn't initially have 4K Netflix support, but *now* it does.
anandtech.com/show/12720/amd-1841-driver-brings-beta-playready-30-support-for-polaris-support-for-vega-gpus-apus-still-to-come

I'm guessing it's not supported still but I really don't know.

Also, not sure if you're still around, but any specific reason for choosing the Bazooka mobo?

And that's the reason why OP recommend Ryzen lineup.

Go die in a hole.

>This is a DRM issue.
>I'm guessing it's not supported still but I really don't know.
AMD claimed that they were going to push an update, but I guess that that fell through.

Anyone had luck with those cheap rgb fan kits on amazon/ebay? Looking for ones that can be connected to the motherboard for speed settings

Bazooka is the best cheap board.
Mortar is a bit better, but it's unlikely you need the higher end audio, or the extra fan header, and whatever.

Maybe they did already update it, and it's just hard to find details on it. idk.

No it's because Jow Forums is full of biased AMD shills who shill AMD for no reason at all.

Comparably, to the DS3H and Pro-M2? Just want to understand the details.

Pro-M2 doesn't have a heatsink, IIRC. DS3H sounds like Gigabyte garbage idk.

tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/lg_34gk950f.htm
Thoughts?
I think the firmware needs work, but otherwise it is the best ultrawide currently.
Shame that Nvidia's module gimps the panel by comparison and is more expensive, though that review is incoming.

If you want to be able to do temp-based speed control, the fan plug needs to have 4 pins instead of 3.

posted near the end of the last thread:

(OP)
Would my PC be okay for 720p 60fps streaming?

i5-4670k @ 4.2GHz
16GB DDR3 RAM
GTX 1070 (it's overclocked but I'm on my break at work and can't remember at the moment)

I also have a 1080p, 144Hz refresh rate monitor. Not sure if thats important but I'd like to keep the high refresh rate a thing while streaming.

If this isn't powerful enough, what upgrades should I make? Would building a second PC solely for streaming be worthwhile?

Im looking to upgrade from my current prebuilt
I plan to mainly use it for photo editing, gaming and some video editing and my budget is approx. 1200$-1500$ max
gtx 1060 6gb, i5 8600 or ryzen 7 2700x,
Z370 pro4, evo 850 or 860 SSD ( debating on 500gb+hdd or 1tb), Corsair tx850m, 16 GB ram gskill 3000mhz
Just throwing together some components I looked at throughout the day.
Thought about going for a used 1080 with warranty if I find it and an i7 if I save up some more

Just buy a 4770/4790k and sell your i5.

The 4670k here is going to be your hard limit. 8+ threads is ideal for streaming, although doing a lower bitrate might help a bit.
A Ryzen 2600/X is good for this, but a Ryzen 7 or i7 would be better, depending on how much this means to you.

I know, just wanted to see if anyone here knows any specific ones. There's a couple on amazon that at least allude to being able to connect to the motherboard, but having trouble finding more information on them otherwise. Most seems to be fixed speed or only adjustable by their specific controllers

How cheap are we talking, anyway? If it's under $10 per fan then it's either not PWM or it's really shitty LEDs
Here's what PCPartPicker says
pcpartpicker.com/products/case-fan/#p=1&sort=price&l=46

so in my PC already I have my OS / main software on a 240GB Samsung SSD. I wanted to expand that a bit for some extra game storage that would be faster than my HDDs.

I have a 240GB Sandisk SSD and a 120GB Samsung SSD lying around, but only 1 more drive slot.

>brain says use 240GB, its just steam games so it doesnt matter if it fails, and i have double the storage.
>OCD says to use Samsung SSD because faster, muh brand consistency, nice metal case aesthetic, newer drive

help /pcbg/, do i go with my brain or my heart on this one?

Looking at sets like these mainly
amazon.com/dp/B07HK5XKBT/ref=emc_b_5_t

amazon.com/DEEPCOOL-RF120-3X120mm-Extension-Compatible/dp/B074P19HSL/ref=sr_1_50?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1539920942&sr=1-50&keywords=rgb fans&refinements=p_36:-15000

amazon.com/Standard-Controller-Exwin-Adjustable-Radiators/dp/B07G9F33J2/ref=sr_1_17?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1539920744&sr=1-17&keywords=rgb fans&refinements=p_36:-15000#customerReviews

These ones seem to be able to be controlled by the mobo, the other ones priced similarly are a bit more vague

Considering moving to a laptop from old PC. Any negatives to this ? Don't even game anymore just shitpost

Link A is PWM-capable
Link B also is PWM
Link C doesn't seem to be, since they go out of their way not to clarify

By the way, what are you using these for? If it's for a radiator, you should probably look more into static pressure focused fans.

3rd one has some reviews/q&a that seems like they might be

Not for my radiator, already have separate fans for it. Just gonna be regular intake/exhaust