/pcbg/ - PC Building General

pcpartpicker.com/list/qrNrP3

Based on a comment from someone on this thread a couple days ago I downgraded the power supply. I also switched the standard sata ssd for an m.2 sata ssd just to get rid of another pesky cable. Getting a 1070 from a friend for a cheap price since he's recently upgraded.

2200g is a placeholder for when 3rd gen ryzen is launched. I'm probably going to buy another 120mm fan for intake and a fan hub to use them all.

Does anybody have any suggestions?

>not getting nvme
Just get a hard disk now then wait for solid state storage prices to plummet in 2019 and buy a nice large one to use with StoreMI.

Why UPSs are so expensive?

nvme doesn't really help in my use-case though. I mostly just game or work with spreadsheets lol. It's not like I'm moving mass amounts of gb around at a time.

also that shit's expensive

Still though you should really wait until solid state prices drop like a rock in 2019, and for the price of that one ssd you could buy 4 tb of hard disk and one 256 ssd, then accelerate it with store MI since you have an AMD pc. It's just something to consider.

That's a good point, I'll take it into consideration

>still can't replicate my first attempt at overclocking my 2400g or get to 4ghz
I give up

Also if you want better 1080p performance you should go with the ryen 5's integrated GPU, trust me clock speed is not the only thing that matters. Also RAM is expensive, you could probably get away with two 4 gig sticks at that speed, if you're just gaming you'll only need 8 anyway, even if you partition a couple gigs to the iGPU. Finally even with a Ryzen 5 you could even use a wraith spire to overclock, but I'm not aware of the thermals of their integrated chips, so take that with a grain of salt, but that noctua might be overkill since you don't seem to be doing heavily cpu bound productivity.

What are some reliable and relatively silent 2tb HDDs?
My current WD Blue does its job well but the clicking and light hum are slightly distracting.

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Yes get something like the deepcool fh10 that one's better than this

i can't tell if you're being ironic, but i'll bite. the only time you should hear a HDD clicking is if your ear is right next to the case, user. it sounds like your drive is on the slow road to failure. you should be able to replace it and solve the issue and get another "silent" drive. i'm not sure if the "light hum" you're talking about is a sign of the drive failure, too, or you're just being anal retentive when it comes to your machine. regardless, you should be able to replace the HDD with any new drive and solve the noise issues.

Why didn't you get Vega56 for $250 instead? ~90% of the performance of a 2070 for almost 1/3rd the cost.
None.
Wait for 2999TiTi

>NVMeme for gaming and basic desktop use
Don't troll.

>pcpartpicker.com/list/qrNrP3
Overpriced cooler.
Just get an Artic 33. 85% the same performance for almost half the price. And just as quiet.
Case is way too expensive, too.
Can save like $10 getting an SU800 as well.
Can save like $40 on PSU getting a 550W and waiting for a sale...

For all this money you're wasting on various components, you could be getting the 2400G instead which will last you a lot longer before requiring an upgrade and still save a good deal of money.
This is a MASSIVELY overpriced build.
pcpartpicker.com/list/247tHh Is cheaper at ~$700 except it has an RX580 8Gb, though SSD is 500Gb instead of 1Tb. Good illustration of just how badly you're wasting money on poor value components.

They aren't. I got a 1350VA one for like $100.

My Barracuda for my NAS was oddly pretty quiet. But... why are you putting HDDs in your PC? SSDs don't make any noise.
Not really true. Many HDDs are just loud.

Nope, everything is in order. I'm just sensitive to light clicking to noise and because I'm 50cm or so away from my case, I can hear the noise. the humming is a non-issue, to be honest. The HDD is relatively new and there are no apparent signs of drive failure. I just wanted to know which 2tb HDD to get.

if you're that sensitive to noise you should go SSD because all HDDs will be noisy for you. the best 2tb drive is any one that's 7200 RPM and on sale, user, doesn't fucking matter really

Ok, then. I'll wait to see if there any 2tb HDDs on sale during black friday. It just seems wasteful to keep porn on SSDs. I'm no millionaire.

>trying to buy another fan for my CPU cooler
>accidentally get a 92mm instead of a 120mm from amazon
>it arrives today
>obviously the wrong size
>go to return it
>they refund me
>they don't even want it back

Attached: 🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔.jpg (290x277, 9K)

Thoughts on aerocool aero 800?

Not worth the cost of shipping a $3 part. Amazon does that a lot.
But yeah I find that weird when I tell them I don't want it or bought it on accident, rather than being damaged.
Not wanting a damaged item back can make sense. Not wanting something back that they can restock if it's more expensive is weird.

Overall Amazon just uses some data driven trust system.

More a fan of their DS 200.

uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/TmXcV6

bare bones to be updated over time

like the tiny case, probably gna b air flow problems buuut… ahem, w/e - unless you can convince me how dire it is, seems plenty of workstation users also have it.. maybe theyre just loser casuals tho idk

want to update to 2600 at some point or wait till next ryzen release, nvme at some point + then buy full storemi, dedicated gpu at some point

photoshop, pure data, fruit loops, ableton, that sort of thing, will learn some coding this summer, want for Linux too but appaz 2200g (or was it the 450m mortar cant remember) has Linux issues, maybe that's changed

I wonder if they take into account your recent purchases? I've spend like a few thousand over the last couple months since I have prime and my roommate doesn't so he gave me cash to buy his parts on amazon. I've also been a customer since 2013 and had prime for that entire time, so maybe preference is given to longer standing accounts or accounts with continuous prime. I can see why they wouldn't want it back if it was broken but it is literally brand new in box and I told them that I just bought it by mistake.

Yeah their cost was probably something like $2 and they were selling it for $8 but another $3 in shipping it back to the amazon facility literally in my town still runs them $3 if they restock and sell it again.

>I wonder if they take into account your recent purchases?
Yes, they do.
If you do a lot of returns, that's when they make you send them back instead of trusting you.

>uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/TmXcV6
>like the tiny case
>want to update to 2600 at some point or wait till next ryzen release
A tad expensive. A lot of that is from the expensive PSU and B-die. But it's a fine build for what you're looking for.

Main thing I'd say is... you said you want tiny, but that case isn't really *that* small. It's going to take a lot of desk space.
A slim case like the Thermaltake G3, among others, will take up a ton less space.
>nvme at some point + then buy full storemi
May was well use Optane for that. It's more expensive, but more worth it over NVMeme. If you don't have a budget for Optane, imo the NVMe storemi isn't worth it over just pairing a fast SATA SSD with a large slow one.

g3 is 50.7 x 21.2 x 44.8
sugo11 is 27 x 21.2 x 39.3
how would g3 be less space?

thought PSU wasn't so bad as probably want 650 at least for next ryzen (?) and 2600 + GPU (?), seasonic are reliable, 10 yr warranty etc - bronze would probably cut it but had psu explode in the past, never want to smell that toast again
i find low cas ram makes a difference to lots of effects in sound design, mby a placebo, and 3200 is good for the ryzen apu

Would it be a good idea to get a 1080ti for a $1500 build?

>he fell for the 2400g meme
overclocked 2200g gang

How $1500 is it?

Do you have a monitor? Mouse/KB? PSU? Case? Case fans? If you have some of that stuff then yeah you're probably right on. If you don't you might be fucked.

I recently did a build almost exactly like that with that budget but I only needed to buy a 1080ti, new mobo, new CPU and new RAM

I’m planning on building a new computer in the future based on a 1440p 144hz monitor but I don’t plan on buying accessories with the build. I’m fine with holding off on those for the meantime with thrift shop finds and upgrading them periodically.

>he fell for the "4 threads is all you'll ever need" meme
Enjoy paying for the upgrade when you realise it's not.

Probably mostly iGPU issues, but it seems ok with 4.19 and mesa 18.2.4. (on 2400G, but that shouldn't make a difference here).

I'm a big fan of $100 mech keyboards, $200 headphones, $50 stand mics and $50 mice with $400 monitors. That's not really reasonable on a strict "I have nothing but $1500" build, but since I already had them I slid in around $1525 getting a very nice mobo, 3200mhz ram, an 8700k and a 1080ti as well as a 256gb boot SSD.

What do you already have right now?

looking to upgrade my ancient cpu to a 2600 but whats a good motherboard to go with it?

Attached: thicc tay.jpg (3047x4571, 1.28M)

Look at that face.. she's getting old fast.

ah, because I could put g3 under desk?
guess thatd be better temps too, def better airflow
mbay g-skill ripjaws ram is gd enough too, saving 60quid

i read about a rosewill (mby was silverstone...) case that had a cool design much like a tall cuboid, so had great airflow but have since been unable to find case or article which is annoying

WHY IS MY SCREEN SHAKING AND HOW DO I FIX IT

So I updated the drivers on my GTX 1050ti a couple weeks ago and ever since my screen has been flickering like a god damned CRT monitor viewed through a camera.

It went away for like a week after I restarted my PC a few times but now its back.

Wat do? I tried deleting the driver and manually installing it but it didn't do a thing, I'm on Windows 10 BTW.

when will gpu prices go down

buy last gen

how do you mean

GTX 10 series

Uhhh that doesn't sound right at all.
Thermaltake G3 is only 5.5" wide. It's barely wider than a SFX PSU is wide. Did you miss-copy 21.2 from the sugo11 twice?
So yeah, as you can see, the g3 is about 1/3rd the footprint despite being a full ATX case.

B450M Mortar.

You're retarded and blind. I just got Vega56 for $250 new.
Doubly retarded.

it works fine with my minimal gentoo install, try harder wangblows

i got a rx 480 8gb for $100

yeah, i figured. feels like whatever i buy i'll be fucked but what else is there to do
damn. i'm third world scum is what i am

So, how long does it take to compile firefox?

>Vega56 for 250
If you're not in the US, Vega 56 prices are almost double a 1070ti and a Vega 64 will be more then 2 1070ti. Doesn't help that the 1080ti stock is almost empty either.

>firecuck
i only use Midori

>got my MSI 1080ti for $750 last week
>same card is now $900
feels bad but also good at the same time

What kind of keyboard, headphones, mics, mice and monitors do you have?

why is the US so fucked with AMD GPU prices? in my country a GTX 1070 is 2-3 times the priceo f a RX 580

Do "mirrored" cases exist (with right-facing side window)?

>buying nvidia ever for any reason ever

>i'm third world scum is what i am
Not our problem nor that of product suppliers. It's your local government's import regulations, taxes, corruption, etc.

That's not true. Lots of AUS and EU buyers the past week have said that Vega56 were clearly cheaper.

??????

Uh... modded TJ08 maybe?
Jonsbo might have some?
They'd mostly be Silverstone cases because they held patents for many years up until like the past year on non-standard motherboard orientations.

>buying a better performing card for any reason ever

Ah, it's webkit then. Bloated AND deprecated.

>implying $750 for a 1080Ti is good
Holy shit you paid 3x more than my $250 Vega56 for only 30% increase in performance

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Why are you so mad?

every time someone buys a nvidia card they are speeding up the eventual monopoly that nvidia will have. Enjoy paying 500$ for a mid range card in 10 years

Corsair (I have a detailed reason why I bought this when I did) with cherry reds. Sennheiser 599s. Blue snowball, logitech G403 (amazing build quality and handfeel from the year I've owned it) and double 144hz 1080p monitors.

>
>only 30% increase in performance
>only 30%
haha

>Vega56CHAD

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some people do want to play games and have a monitor with a higher resolution than 1080p. while I do agree buying nvidia when AMD does so poorly in the GPU market only enforces the former's position, ultimately you can't blame people for buying a card that provides them objectively better entertainment. all AMD has to do is release more competitive products, which they promised they'll do, but not everyone is willing to wait.

Why do amerifats have everything cheaper while being richer?

>richer

hahaha no

Not to even mention higher refresh rates. Even the 1080ti is barely netting 144+ on the newest games at ultra settings IN 1080 FUCKING P. AMD doesn't have a horse in the higher refresh rate race.

We're just better than you.

>t. poorfag

is there any reason to get a graphics card over something like a 2400g?
1080p 60fps is fine or should I just go for a 2600/580

unless you're fine with only playing new shit on ultra low than stick with 2400g

if you have cheap things you waste less money.
more money = richer

go for a r5 2600 + GTX 1050ti (the only worth nvidia gpu)

I'll have to got ultra low settings even on a 580?

no, hes just shilling nvigoy

you can go ultra high on 1080p with an rx 580. I meant ultra low for the 2400g

Yes. 30%. Let that buyers remorse sink in.
You got so tricked by Nvidia's marketing that you didn't even bother to look at benchmarks.

All cards overclocked
>AotS
69fps V56
92.3 1080Ti
33.76% advantage
>Destiny 2
80.1 V56
100.2 1080Ti
25.09% advantage
>Witcher 3 (Nvidia sponsored)
67.18 V56
90.83 1080Ti
35.20% advantage
>The Division
84 V56
108.5 1080Ti
29.16% advantage
>Battlefield 1
110.53 V56
132.95 1080Ti
20.28% advantage
>Fallout 4 (another Nvidia favored old game)
97.31 V56
133.41 1080Ti
37.09% advantage
Total advantage: 30.09%
Lmao I just said 30% off the top of my head as a rough estimate, and it was spot on.

Vega56 = $250
Your 1080Ti = $750
Then you have the hundreds I'm saving on Freesync on top of that.

*~Imagine~* the absolute state of self induced cuckery where you pay 3x more for 1.3x performance and then are in denial about how much performance you actually have. Even people who got their 1080Ti for $530 got cucked paying over 2x more for 1.3x performance.

Attached: vega56 1440p oc.png (1820x665, 93K)

>the only worth nvidia gpu
Nice joke

Why are you hiding the 700w power consumption? :)

Attached: vega-56-mod-power-aotse_all.png (797x371, 60K)

>i put $500 when buying a GPU so i dont have to pay $5 of electricity each month

>t. cucked with gorillions of ameribucks in student loans, mortgage, shitty food everywhere, expensive healthcare and 5 hours worth of commute per day due to living in the bumfuck of nowhere like 80% of americans
N-no thanks, I'd rather the poorfaggotry..

Middle and lower-middle class in American have the largest tax burden and insurance burden. It's pretty absurd. Couldn't live if things besides healthcare weren't so cheap.

You'll only get more like 30fps on more demanding games, sometimes at only 900p, on the 2400G.
RX580 will do roughly everything at maxed or high settings at 60-75fps at least.
See the build linked in the last thread for a solid cheap 1080p build >paying more for a 1050Ti than you can get an RX570 for
No trolling.

It doesn't consume 700W in that test there. Your trolling is weak.
It does consume more than the 1080Ti with that heavy of an overclock, but it would take
>literally decades
to make up half the $500 cost difference.

You can also still have it at 1070Ti performance and save 150 watt. AMD just lets you overclock cards more and to you that's a bad thing because you're a horrible shill.

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what are some good basic cases that fit micro atx?

Attached: blue waifu.webm (640x900, 2.75M)

i love AMD GPU's but the gtx 1050ti consumes less and also dosnt need a 6 pin connector

I have an hp 22xw. Can I like enable or hack freesync on it?

Coolermaster masterbox 3.0

If you can't tell the difference between 60 and 90fps I think you should try a monitor with a refresh rate higher than 60Hz. You might be surprised that the reason enthusiasts tend to buy more expensive equipment is because that little bit of performance matters.
>hurr why do people buy $60,000 cars when my $10,000 car can go 70% of the same speed!

>5 dollars extra a month
more like 22$ a month on average lol . So in 2 years you make up that 500$ price gap

75 watts is about $1.35 per month.
$500/$1.35 = 370 months = 30 years and 9 months.

Nice damage control.

Not needing a 6 pin is LITERALLY the only reason to get a 1050Ti.
For someone building a PC from scratch and buying a new PSU, that is completely useless.

Coolermaster Q300L (may have packaging issues, but otherwise good)
Meshify C MicroATX
Many Jonsbo cases (but not for housefire components as they aren't cool)
Silverstone cases like the FT-03 and more.

>500w
LOL this shit is gonna die in a month if you oc it like that. I can't believe you try to b8 people to buy this housefire. Atleast you should say you need a 750w psu to go with it before you recommend it.

where did you pull 75 watts from. The oc'd v56 system used 300 more watts lol

485w is the total system power consumption, you brainlet.
It's only 75w higher than the 1080Ti when heavily overclocked like that.

Again, you can save close to 150w and only lose about 5% performance. That's common knowledge to non-morons and non-lying-shills.
Gamers Nexus did another test on that, separate from their extreme overclocking power limit mod test.

>you need 750w psu for 485 total system consumption
Okay samefag troll

t.i buy a new psu every year

>the $500 cost difference.
I wish. $400 is the minimum price for v56 and in reality it's $450-500

>Vega56 = $250
>Your 1080Ti = $750
>Then you have the hundreds I'm saving on Freesync on top of that.
Are you mentally retarded? 1080Ti did not cost $750, it maybe does now because the supply is running dry, forever. Meanwhile AMD is cutting prices because nobody buys their GPUs.
Freesync saves you 100-200 depending but on the other hand if you live in an area with high electricity costs those saves 100-200 are consumed within an average of 1.5 years.
And how about you post the source of your benchmark because it doesn't look like anything popular.

what ever happened to that home server general?

kind of want to start something like that up again, focusing on file servers, NAS, and whatnot

Where do you get 300 watts from? The power limit mod that was a scientific test and not an actual recommendation by GN?

483 is only 75 more than 408. Simple math for non-retards to do. Can't believe this level of lies and cope to deal with the fact that a $750 card is only 30% faster than a $250 card. Lmao.
You can't defend the shitty cost for performance so you have to LIE about the power consumption and how much that extra consumption costs.
And you have to LIE and say you can only do an extreme overclock and can't undervolt it.

I bought my Vega56 Red Devil new for $250 yesterday.
It was ~$230-$240 last week.

>Are you mentally retarded? 1080Ti did not cost $750
Cheapest it's been is $530 new, you retard. That's still 2.12x cost for 1.3x performance lmao.
>I'm underage and don't know overclocker's club
okay kiddo

Jow Forums is so full of shills, false flagging, and gaslighting, that threads never live very long.

Attached: 'you are proven wrong' samefag gaslighting shill.png (2350x575, 139K)