/pcbg/ - PC Building General

>Create a parts list
pcpartpicker.com/
>Learn how to build a PC
Search youtube for a guide for your socket

Want help?
>State your budget & CURRENCY
>List your uses eg Gaming, Video Editing, VM Work
>For monitors include purpose and graphics pairing
>NO Speccy. Use HWinfo
>For Win7 in Ryzen pastebin.com/TUZvnmy1

CPU
>Athlon 200GE - Bare minimal desktop/gaming
>R3 2200G - Light gaming(dGPU optional)
>R5 2400G/i5-8400 - Consider IF on sale
>R5 2600/X - Good gaming & multithreaded work use CPUs
>i7-9700k/8700k - If you have a $2000+ budget and don't care that it'll be superseded by 7nm CPUs next year
>R7 2700/X - Best value high-end CPU on a non-HEDT platform
>Wait for R7 3700X - Surely the best overall and not a massive disappointment like the 9900k
>Threadripper/Used Xeon - HEDT

RAM
>8GB - Enough for most gaming use
>16GB - Standard for heavy use
>32GB - If you have to ask, you don't need this
>CPUs benefit from fast RAM; 2933MHz+ is ideal

Graphics cards
>RTX 2000 cards are worse performance per $ than previous gen
>Avoid cheap MODELS ie MSI Armor (Mk2 is ok), Gigabyte G1/Wf, ASUS dual, and others w/ small heatsinks and low quality fans
1080p
>RX 570/580 w/ Freesync or 1060 6GB - standard 1080p 60fps+ options
>1050 3Gb or RX560 4Gb - lower settings and/or older games
>GTX 1070Ti/Vega 56 - for higher FPS w/ a high hz monitor
1440p
>Vega 56; 1070Ti/1080 if you already have Gsync
>GTX 1080Ti - for higher FPS w/ a high hz monitor
4K
>Upscale from 1620-1800p. Maybe 2080Ti but awful value
OpenCL use
>Vega 64

Storage
>Backup before using StoreMi
>Consider getting a larger SSD (better GB/$) instead of small SSD & large HDD
>2TB HDDs are barely more $ than 1TB
>M.2 is a form factor, NOT a performance standard

Display
>Consider 75hz minimum; 60hz are mostly old models
>Always consider FreeSync w/ AMD cards
>FOR GAMING START YOUR BUILD WITH A MONITOR FIRST, then make your build to drive it appropriately

More
rentry.co/pcbg-more

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Attached: 1460385278293.jpg (720x960, 71K)

Other urls found in this thread:

cnet.com/products/dell-inspiron-560-p-e6700-3-2-ghz-monitor-none-series/specs/
ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/J7TpRJ
pcpartpicker.com/list/vy8br6
pcpartpicker.com/list/nxTY8Y
pcpartpicker.com/list/nRpR4q
pcpartpicker.com/list/zp6CCb
amazon.com/dp/B07FJ8VLNL/?coliid=I2AYLV3AY62HE8&colid=2VXVW190XZWZV&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
amazon.com/dp/B0134EW7G8/?coliid=IKU8L7VU8F7EA&colid=2VXVW190XZWZV&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
amazon.com/dp/B07B41WS48/?coliid=ITX06PZZKCMU6&colid=2VXVW190XZWZV&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
pcpartpicker.com/list/nXC4jy
twitter.com/NSFWRedditVideo

AHHHHHH MY STOCK RYZEN CPU COOLER WONT SCREW INTO THE FUCKING MOTHERBOARD I HAVE BEEN TRYING FOR HOURS WHAT THE FUCK DO I DO

Thoughts? Any recommendations?

Case: not actually purchasing this case, it's a place holder for the card. I'm getting the Louqe Ghost S1 when it ships

AIO Cooler: Is there a better cooler or does it even better?

RAM: Not sure which speeds to go with, 3200 seems to be the standard right now, don't really see any reason to go above that.

CPU: i7 9700k - all of the bench marks I've seen has this out performing or equal performance to the 8700k, am I missing anything by not having hyper threading?

MOBO: ITX Z390 - this might change before I make my purchase but there is only 5 different boards to choose one, I like the M.2 heat sink, some of the others don't have one.

PSU: with the Louqe Case I need SFX, I wanted Seasonic but Corsair is good as well. Don't need more than 600W.

GPU: 2080 - Well, I was going to purcahse a 1080ti until the stock hit low and they're no longer manufacturing them so I guess I'm getting a 2080 now?

SSD: M.2 - first M.2 SSD. I want a 1TB, and I'll have my old 850evo as well for additional storage.

Attached: Puter.png (666x793, 198K)

I have a Gigabyte Z390 AORUS PRO WIFI.
And i tried to set up my fan that came with thermaltake view 31.
I believe it's a Riing 14? Not Plus.

I bought it recently,
It worked for a few days, then i noticed the light is gone.
So i tried to fix it by changing the fan speed in BIOS to full speed.
I tried messing with the cables a little.

*I have no idea if this burnt the wire out.
It was originally plugged in "sys fan 5 pump".
And then i plugged it to "LED C2" 4 pins.
I think it's 12v.

After messing with things around, i reverted everything to original,
and now it won't even start anymore.
The Riing Controller's LED doesn't even light up anymore, no red light (for slow speed) or blue light (for full speed) anymore.
The fan is not running, the rgb lighting is not lighting either.
I also tried plugging it into "sys fan 6 pump" but it still won't run.

Did i broke my fan?
Is there a way to troubleshoot if it's my fan broke, or is my pins not supplying powers?

Recommend a monitor for vega56?
Up to £350
Atleast real 8bit
Freesync
More than 1080p
Preferably a model thats recent

Attached: 1540337169717.jpg (2448x1836, 790K)

Why doesnt the op recommend good gpu cooler models ? It recommends bad ones so it should recommend the good ones

Test the fan on another PC?

Don't have another pc, and it's a case fan, so i can't detach it and take it to elsewhere without screwing up the wiring, and the stuffs in casing.

I have an old Dell Inspiron 560 desktop. Would the following parts be compatible / remotely close to being able to play games?

Gt1030
8gb ram

comp specs: cnet.com/products/dell-inspiron-560-p-e6700-3-2-ghz-monitor-none-series/specs/

You need to place the backplate behind it. Lmfao.

>aio
>h200i
>no b-die
>RTX
>1Tb useless NVMeme costs as mcuh as a 2Tb one
>Pro drive for a gamerfag PC when that's for video editing
You don't know what you're doing so you just picked the 2nd most expensive parts except for the one that matters most, the RAM.

Uhh too many decent to great ones to list, really. Just avoid the shittiest ones and you're pretty fine.
And they can change with each generation. Like I can't keep up with what's now good on the 2000 series and what still sucks. A lot of the worst ones get renamed because of their bad reputation lmao. Like Gigabyte renamed their G1 and Windforce I think? Though MSI Armor is still Armor though slightly better than before.

Mbest one. There's only like one model afaik so easy to find.
Pixio PX277h.
Nixeus 27edg (will cost more unless on sale).
All are 1440p 144hz AHVA(IPS). The Pixio one is HDR, 8bit+frc IIRC, though doesn't meet HDR400 spec or Freesync HDR spec. But still supports adaptive sync and HDR.

>Is there a way to troubleshoot if it's my fan broke, or is my pins not supplying powers?
Volt meter. Costs $10 for a shitty one and $20 for a half decent one. Also plug it into another spot.

At 15fps, maybe.

how difficult is it to replace a motherboard? worth it or should i just get a new system?
(from )

>Pentium E6700
why

because it's an old system someone gave to me for nothing

>You need to place the backplate behind it. Lmfao.
KEK that worked thank you

i want to change my gpu myself but have never opened a pc, how careful do i have to be?, i know about static but im too paranoid about damaging stuff

Thinking of what to buy on black friday.
Redpill me on a secondary 4k monitor (or even a TV). Already got 1080p 144hz 24 inch gsync one for gaming.
Mostly to pirate 4k movies and enjoy some kino but also play less demanding games that work better on 4k. Do I got IPS or VA panel?
Pic related current PC.

Attached: 2016-09-12 17_17_01-Piriform Speccy.png (660x525, 34K)

>Also plug it into another spot
Alright, so i plugged it into sys fan 6, sys fan 2, sys fan 3.
And it still doesn't work.
I went to bios for fan settings, and seems like it can't detect any fan either.

So can i assume that i somehow broke my fan?

I have a controller like pic related.
Can i not detach the wiring from it once they are plugged?
Because i can't take them off no matter how.

Attached: 5216113-8-l.jpg (600x600, 88K)

ok, so i can unplug it, but it's a 5 pin, so i guess i can't just attach them to sysfan port and make them run then.
Guess i have to bring the whole casing back to the shop to asks them to fix it for me.

Like a piece of lego.

make sure to undo the latch first instead of trying to yank the gpu out like a mong

Just noticed this.
The fan did run for a few seconds when i started the windows.
Once it's in my desktop, it stopped running again.
The controller's LED still doesn't have red/blue light.

Now i'm completely confused...

>got Samsung B die for $176
>3600 CL17

Attached: 1372698141105.png (298x303, 87K)

ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/J7TpRJ
Can I get some help?
I need Motherboard/PSU/Ram suggestions. I only really game on it so I'd like to keep the price below 1000.

So basically my [spoiler]younger[/spoiler] brother bought a 2080ti and is givng me his old 1080. He is also gifting me a Ryzen 2700x for my birthday/christmas.
Problem is ill be going from my i5 2500k and z68 board, so ill need new ram. The last time I bought anything PC related was nearly 4 years ago for an intel SSD and im pretty lost now.

Any Canadians here? Got any experience w newegg.ca Black Friday deals?
NCIX went bankrupt and they're the ones I usually went to for shit

>32 inch
>1440p
>144hz
>Va or ips
>Not a piece of trash samsung panel

DOES IT FUCKING EXIST? ive bought literally 5 monitors in the past two weeks and all.of them were defective in some way. What did they all have in common? They all had the same samsung panel.

Price literally is no object anymore. I want something that is going to last me and won't give me fucking issues.

That's not even good

Regarding on OP's statement and I quote:
>1440p
>>Vega 56; 1070Ti/1080 if you already have Gsync
Assuming I don't care about 144hz and only want to play the latest games just on 75hz with 1440p and high settings, is a rx 580 enough?

Deciding on a 27" 1440p monitor for both work and play but don't want to spend on those 144hz gamer monitor + vega 56.

Attached: 1449113058800.png (300x300, 3K)

Sure it is, most B-die goes for $200 minimum, tighten the timings on these to 16-16-16-36 and there's good value

Just a heads up for Mexican buyers.
Sapphire offers no free warranty in Mexico, and they charge you $60 to check your card + Shipping prices if you want it back.
XFX only gives you 2 years instead 5, and they only will pay shipping back.
EVGA does free RMA shipping if you bought through Amazon and registered it the first 30 days.
MSI does free RMA too.
Gigabyte will only do free RMA the first year, after that you have to pay the shipping 2 times.
ASUS, lol you wish.
Zotac will ask you to send the card to US for RMA.
PNY, no free shipping, "Lifetime warranty" can be rejected.

>tightening the timings
Do you people even check for errors or do just one pass and if it's okay declare the timings stable?

>amd cucks need to spend $200 more on ram to still get WORSE performance lol

Help:
> $1200 budget, can go a little over.
> Gaming, Game Dev, 3D animations
> Want this build to last me some time.
> Current Build 10 year old piece of shit that can barely run Overwatch now.

Computer: MSI MS-7641
CPU: AMD Phenom II X6 1045T (Thuban, PH-E0 (Pharaoh))
2600 MHz (13.00x200.0) @ 2700 MHz (13.50x200.0)
Motherboard: MSI 760GM-P23(FX) (MS-7641)
BIOS: V17.9, 03/23/12
Chipset: SB750/SB710
Memory: 16384 MBytes @ 666 MHz, 9-9-9-24
- 8192 MB PC10600 DDR3 SDRAM - Kingston 9905403-547.A00LF
- 8192 MB PC12800 DDR3 SDRAM - Crucial Technology BLS8G3D1609DS1S00.
Graphics: Sapphire Radeon HD 7870
AMD Radeon HD 7870, 2048 MB GDDR5 SDRAM
Drive: Hitachi HDP725050GLA360, 488.4 GB, Serial ATA 3Gb/s
Drive: WDC WD20NMVW-11C3NS2, 1953.5 GB, Serial ATA 6Gb/s @ 6Gb/s USB
Drive: WDC WD2500BEVT-00A23T0, 244.2 GB, Serial ATA 3Gb/s USB
Drive: HL-DT-ST DVDRAM GH22NS50, DVD+R DL
Sound: ATI/AMD SB600 - High Definition Audio Controller
Sound: ATI/AMD Verde/Heathrow/Chelsea - High Definition Audio Controller
Network: RealTek Semiconductor RTL8168/8111 PCI-E Gigabit Ethernet NIC
Network: NETGEAR WNA3100 N300 Wireless USB Adapter
OS: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium (x64) Build 7601

As opposed to paying $500 for a housefire?

theirs literally only 1 intel consumer cpu thats a housefire

IT'S NOT FAIR INTELBROS

Attached: 1541694452421.png (1374x375, 647K)

>install software which came with my Asus MoBo for controlling the RGB
>it kills my windows installation

>install Ryzen software
>it kills my windows installation

>update Nvidia Goyforce Experience (without even updating the drivers themselves; literally just the fucking program)
>it fucks with my display driver and I have to restore windows to a prior point in order to be able to play vidya

Why do hardware manufacturers keep trying to kill my PC with their software?

Attached: 1337892902418.jpg (400x266, 110K)

>rgb
>gefore experience
>any other fucking useless software

oh my

Attached: OHMY.png (306x397, 212K)

Hows good is this build for you?
pcpartpicker.com/list/vy8br6

>CL17

How does this sound for a budget build?

Ryzen r3 2200
B450M PRO-M2
8GB Kit (4GBx2) 2400 Kingston HyperX FURY
Thermaltake 80 plus 550

I have a MSI Radeon R9 380 OC 2GB from my previous computer.

It looks nice, I was looking at this one myself, however is it wise to mix non-amd graphics cards with AMD processors. Doesn't say there are compatibility issues.

Here are the builds I'm toying around with:

pcpartpicker.com/list/nxTY8Y
pcpartpicker.com/list/nRpR4q
pcpartpicker.com/list/vy8br6

There's little to no problem with running Amd processors with non AMD graphics. However many people would recommend to go Intel and Nvidia instead of AMD and Nvidia

So, my buddy spilled ramen or some shit all over his older gaming PC. Everything was killed by chicken flavor aside from his GTX660 and a power supply ~500watt
Since he desperately still needed a PC i had told him to snag a cheap optiplex off ebay that had a i5-2400 (non k) and dropped in the parts that survived.

Now hes looking to upgrade a bit as hes seeing high CPU usage in a few games at 1080p. While the 660 is pretty bad and likely the major bottleneck (but he says his old build ran better as I'm guessing the CPU is acting shit too) do you think hes better off using this starter R 2200g build and eventually getting a 1050ti?

pcpartpicker.com/list/zp6CCb
(2220g/3000hmz 2x4 GB/b450m, use 660 and then 1050ti later)

Or should i tell him to get a 1050ti and trying it in the optiplex? Very tight budget here

It's ok but Ryzen likes faster RAM and you'd be better off stepping up to a beefier Ryzen if possible too. What do you have now?

Yeah, yeah, I know, it's useless, I'm not denying that. Still crazy that their software can be so shitty though.

Use DDU to erase anything Nvidia related from your PC and then download and install JUST the driver. Fuck Goyforce experience and definitely fuck anything RGB or AIB partner software related other than Afterburner.

I'm the idiot with a broken motherboard I have a i5 650, which was perfectly fine for me.

Will a Ryzen 2600 work with a HD 5770?

Look for a used Thinkcentre instead optiplex.
And buy a new PSU.

>Use DDU to erase anything Nvidia related from your PC and then download and install JUST the driver.
I'll definitely do this if I have problems updating drivers down the line or anything, but honestly until then if it just werks I don't really see the point in going through that trouble.

I'm trying to decide between an ultrawide monitor or 3 VESA'd monitors for multitasking, but I've never owned an ultrawide and I don't know anything about them. My main concern is that I like to play games in windowed fullscreen for maximum multitasking, but I can't imagine that working on an ultrawide. Can someone who knows about ultrawides tell me how that works?

Attached: 1517679013360.png (620x640, 260K)

Doesn't exist
stick to ips 60hz until tech catches up

My 8700 is a gem of a processor

yes but the gpu will bottleneck it

Bumping this question

Attached: 1466141541344.jpg (960x1280, 276K)

You still have one of those? Christ. Just get a 1050

I will upgrade the next Nvidia/AMD gen for now as long its compatible or buy a used 1050 for $90-100.

You need a 1080 minimum

GTX1080 or Vega64, a 580 hover around 30-45 fps at 1440p for most games

Dual monitor mount recommendations?

Im planning on getting a 27" landscape and pair it with my 24" portrait

Then go for the 2200g. It's a pretty snappy quad core at a good price. The 2400g has hyperthreading (SMT) so it would be a decent upgrade but if you're on a serious budget there is nothing wrong with what you've picked out.

The 580 is squarely a 1080p/60hz/high-ultra settings at this point and even that will take some tweaks to maintain on some games (AC:O, etc). Polaris was never really a 1440p card IMO. That was always a stretch.

Check out the Mount-It! (MI-2781). Had it for about a year and a half and works great for my 24"/27" setup. It's like $35 US.

why would you even buy 1440p ? the difference between 1080p and 1440p is barely noticeable

Is 4k a meme for gaming?

Yes. How ever refresh rate above 100Hz is not a meme, and I highly suggest you get at least 100hz or 120 or 144, which ever one fits you while fulfilling your other needs.

thanks i think ill pick one up

Awful bait

>he doesn't use thin clients connected to his home server
never going to make it

Clearly you didn't read my post.

Posted this earlier today, just wanna double check before I put an order out. This is what I have, and I'm looking to change my CPU, RAM and mobo. This is what I have selected for each:
B450M Bazooka: amazon.com/dp/B07FJ8VLNL/?coliid=I2AYLV3AY62HE8&colid=2VXVW190XZWZV&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
Corsair Vengeance DDR4 16GB: amazon.com/dp/B0134EW7G8/?coliid=IKU8L7VU8F7EA&colid=2VXVW190XZWZV&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
Ryzen 5 2600: amazon.com/dp/B07B41WS48/?coliid=ITX06PZZKCMU6&colid=2VXVW190XZWZV&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Does everything looks solid to go ahead and get?

Attached: current spec.jpg (664x529, 85K)

Why not just upgrade your GPU and get a proper SSD?

>windows 10
oh no...

I was told that my primary bottleneck is my CPU/RAM, and I wanna stop the stuttering on my system.
me brainlet

Stuttering doing what? gaming?

Primarily everything, when I switch applications, when I alt tab from games, the long lagging that happens when I start my computer.

That sounds related to your storage/Windows install rather than your RAM/CPU.

could be HD failure. but your new build looks fine. go for it!

Oof, OK. I'll look at a new SSD/HD too.

>and I wanna stop the stuttering on my system.
>me brainlet
Yeah I can see that

Attached: 2600 a shit.jpg (3840x2992, 1.67M)

Just buy a 860 EVO first to replace your current SSD.

oh boy, here comes the intelshill.

Can someone help me with this please because I am close to smashing my fucking PC of a wall and literally no one online has been off any help,

Basically I have zero control over my gpu fans, I could be browsing the web and the fans could just start getting loud as hell even if fans are at like 41, but I have tried every single fan control out there but literally none do anything. The fan control will say fan is at 0 but I can clearly hear it as loud. Is there any options of just entering safe mode or something and just setting gpu fans off, at this point I do not even care if it affects my GPU etc I just want it to fucking stop because it is literally unbearable, in games I might as well give up, I could be playing a game like Gmod or somethign low graphics and it sounds loud as hell.

My specs
GTX 1050 G1 gaming
intel i7 3770
Just a stock mother board
Corsair 650 watt gold certified PSU.

Honestly I am at the point now where I would be happy to paypal someone like $20 who knew how to fix this.

go into your motherboard bios and change the fan curve. if your motherboard doesn't have that feature, replace it.

>Gigabyte
You were asking for it.
Do you have MSI Afterburner?

I do not think that is an option for my motherboard, how can I check if it is an option. Also that seems like the hardest possible fix, I would have to basically rebuild my PC

you fucking putz. you can adjust the fan curve in gigabyte mobos.

Yes. I use MSI but it seems like my GPU ignores it, it could say fan speed is at 0 when it clearly is not at 0

Gigabyte G1 series uses DC fans(2 pins), you cant adjust the speed.

Yes you can, I was able to do it when I first got it before I switched over PSU and before I switched to a new GPU that I had to resell after and re use the 1050

Send it to RMA if the guarantee is still in effect.
If not, remove old fans, and ziptie new fans on top of the heatsink.

I cant RMA it bought it second hand without box etc, this all just seems like huge fixes when I have a feeling there is an easy software fix that I am missing

What is the best Ryzen CPU to overclock?

Attached: deceptive and homosexual.jpg (500x371, 27K)

All of them can be overclocked, but if you're into that, get a 2600x or 2700x

I need a reliable HDD that's not too loud for mass storage. Should be 3-5tb. I am considering the Toshiba x300. Is the WD black worth the premium over the x300?
I also need a new HDD for backup. Obviously the most important thing is reliability. It should be over 6tb. I'm constantly anxious about losing my shit. What would you recommend?

Trying to build a new PC. How's this look?

pcpartpicker.com/list/nXC4jy

Can't really decide what OS I want although I'll probably end up getting W10. I also need help on choosing a CPU cooler. I have the hyper 212 on my current build but it was a fucking pain in the ass to install.

Do I have a gold mine of a chip? I have been able to run my i7 2600k @ 4.7 with it sometimes hitting 1.4v on a hyper 212 maxing out at about 70C while playing games all day.
I have overclocked a lot in my day but this old thing just eats

Attached: Gaben+has+about+500+pounds+of+elephant+meat+and+_b54a37f8da335b54b1ac39c4c00e578b.jpg (642x413, 31K)

just get an H100i or some shit

Will i have any problems of i use a 4k 60hz freesync monitor with a 1080ti? I didn't plan on getting anything better than an rx580 since i rarely play games, but i found a new msi 1080ti for 350.

If you aren't playing games you should be okay. Depending on the game it might chug but if you're not playing much you should be fine