/pcbg/ - Pc Building General

Create a parts list
pcpartpicker.com/
>Learn how to build a PC
Search youtube for a guide w your socket

Want help?
>State your budget & CURRENCY
>List your uses eg Gaming, Video Editing, VM Work
>For monitors include purpose and GPU pairing
>NO Speccy. Use HWinfo
>For Win7 in Ryzen pastebin.com/TUZvnmy1

CPU
>CPUs less threads usually suffer lower 0.1% minimums
>Athlon 200GE - Bare minimal desktop/gaming
>R3 2200G - Light gaming(dGPU optional)
>R5 2400G - Consider IF on sale
>R5 2600/X - Good gaming & multithreaded work use CPUs
>i7-9700k/8700k/8700 - If you have a $2000+ budget and pairing with a 2080 or better
>R7 2700/X - Best value high-end CPU on a non-HEDT platform
>Threadripper/Used Xeon - HEDT

RAM
>Always choose at least a 2 stick kit
>8GB - Bare minimum/Light desktop use.
>16GB - Standard amount
>32GB - If you have to ask, you don't need this
>CPUs benefit from fast RAM; 2933MHz+ is ideal. Check "more" for true latency formula

Graphics cards
>RTX 2000 cards; cheap models usually low yield processor. Aim for factory OC versions for best performance
>use your due diligence with cheap MODELS ie MSI Armor (Mk2 is ok), Gigabyte G1/Wf, ASUS dual, and others w/ small heatsinks and low quality fans. They may be cheap, but won't get high boost clocks like better models
1080p
>RX 570/580/1060 6GB - standard 1080p 60fps+ options
1080p@144hz
>Vega 56/1070ti best value, Free/G-sync monitor highly recommended
1440p@60-75hz
>Vega/1070ti/1080/2070
1440p@100+hz
>1080ti/2080
4K
>Upscale from 1620-1800p. Or 2080Ti, but awful value
OpenCL use
>Vega 64

Storage
>Backup before using StoreMi
>Consider a larger SSD (better GB/$) instead of small SSD & HDD
>2TB HDDs are barely more $ than 1TB
>M.2 is a form factor, NOT a performance standard

Display
>Always consider FreeSync w/ AMD cards
>START YOUR BUILD WITH A MONITOR FIRST, then make a build to drive it appropriately

More
>rentry.co/pcbg-more

Prev

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Other urls found in this thread:

streamable.com/095lc
backblaze.com/b2/hard-drive-test-data.html
amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Protector-Right-Angle-ISOBAR6ULTRA/dp/B0000513US/
pcpartpicker.com/list/D3dnr6
youtube.com/channel/UCGJaDZC7PChgd-XMwcbZkiw/videos
pcpartpicker.com/list/CPZxjy
pcpartpicker.com/list/XnpgHh
twitter.com/SFWRedditGifs

First for intlel shills watching the holidays specials

streamable.com/095lc

Anyone know of any offers for a second-hand GTX 1050 at 75$~ ??

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how tf did this happen?

Idiot tries to remove the casing on it?

When the adhesive is stronger than the solder joints apparently.

Are power surge protectors recommended, or can I use a generic power strip to plug my pc and monitor in the outlet?

Attached: power-surge-protector-500x500.jpg (500x500, 20K)

Surge protector recommended.
Make sure your power strip is surge protected.

I recommend a ups as ssds and specifically nvme drives do not take a sudden power out very well, it may never happen, but safe than sorry.

You can, but I would reccomend a surge protector, because in the event of a power surge at most it will fry the surge protector and not the computer. It is unlikely, but remember that there's a first for everything.

placebo if you don't have another surge protector in electrical box and correct earthing system

Budget builds should start with a used business-class mini tower desktop (ex. Dell Optiplex). You're wasting money just to say you "built it yourself".

It's the same logic as Thinkpad love. Business devices are built to last, and fleets of them get replaced and put on eBay all the time.

Built my workstation a couple of months ago, my HDD is making weird crackling noises on boot and heavy work loads. I'm kind of completely incompetent at reading S.M.A.R.T. stats, is everything alright?

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Which are the best models of GTX 1050 and which are the worst?

and how i protect my Ethernet port from a surge?

Buying my first PC. I'm trying to cheap out on a motherboard and PC Part Picker is telling me this:

"Some AMD B350 chipset motherboards may need a BIOS update prior to using Pinnacle Ridge CPUs. Upgrading the BIOS may require a different CPU that is supported by older BIOS revisions."

Is it simple to update the BIOS of a motherboard? Do I need another computer to do it?

What's the best 3-6tb 7200rpm hdd to get for storage?
Pic unrelated

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>finish my build, few hurdles but nothing much tho
>install windows, running smooth
>putting last side panel on (corsair 570x black mirror
>absolute last peice
>shit shatters in my fucking hand as I’m lining it up to screw it in
>literally touched it to nothing and couldn’t be more cautious with it
AHHHHHH

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>cheap out on a motherboard
Why? b450 is very cheap already

Trying to save money and I've been told you can cheap out on motherboards without much consequence

Snake oil unless:
- you've got a shitty electrical system in your house
- your country has a shitty electrical grid
- you live in a place with a lot of lightning storms

>CPUs less threads usually suffer lower 0.1% minimums
lower meaning more severe? CPUs without hyperthreading are more prone to stuttering is what he was trying to say?

Not a 7200RPM obviously. Start here.
>backblaze.com/b2/hard-drive-test-data.html

>Some AMD B350 chipset motherboards may need a BIOS update prior to using Pinnacle Ridge CPUs
While B350 mobos are compatible with Ryzen 2k series CPUs, they require a BIOS update... for which you need a Ryzen 1st gen CPU. If you don't have one or can't borrow one, you have a brick.
>I've been told you can cheap out on motherboards without much consequence
You plug all of your shit into the mobo, don't buy a fucking piece of cardboard, and as the other user said B450 isn't expensive at all. Post your build, your monitor and your goal+budget.

Less cores/threads can induce stuttering, especially if you have shit running in the background. While it doesn't mean you need to throw away your current CPU, it would be unwise to buy a new one that's 4 cores+4 threads unless you're really that poor to consider one ($100 and below).

>Not a 7200RPM obviously
I just got a seagate 2tb anyway, realised that borderline no one makes high capacity drives at 7200rpm and the ones that do are too much money

They're fast, but not as reliable. Also, with the SSD prices, the main reason people have HDDs is for storage, for which you do not need fast speeds. That's why big, fat HDDs at 7200RPM don't exist: there's no market for it.

Wait for QLC to really hit the shelves

To update the bios to support the newer cpu, you need to be able to boot to bios. To do that you need an already supported cpu. It isn't worth it.

>QLC

In the trash it goes. Get TLC on the cheap because QLC can perform worse than a HDD

I have a 6700k at stock clocks (so it's regularly running at 4.2). Is my 2400 ram hurting my performance significantly versus say, 2666 or 3000?

surge protector. you build a 1-2k system. why the hell not protect it by spending $30-$50 tops on a good surge protector? I personally like aps and tripp lite. I live in the southwest and monsoon season we get really bad thunderstorms with frequent lightning strikes. I've had cheap off brands shit fail but never had aps or tripp lites fail, yet.

and get a 2,000 jule minimum for a computer.

this is the one I use:
amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Protector-Right-Angle-ISOBAR6ULTRA/dp/B0000513US/

>for storage
>7200 RPM
>3-6TB
Unless you can afford actual high end stuff you're going to have to make a choice:

>Reliability
>Capacity
>Speed
Pick two.

Reliable high-capacity drives are all shingled low platter count 5400 RPM stuff.
Fast high-capacity drives all have high platter counts and more failures as a result.
Fast and reliable limits you to 2TB for conventional drives, and 4TB for shingled drives (if you can deal with the atrocious rewrite performance).

By the way, you can usually tell a drive is shingled by the cache size, all of them have large caches (usually 256MB, which they need).

Note that new recording tech (HAMR & MAMR) is coming out into the mainstream within the next year or two, obsoleting SMR and bringing capacities allegedly up into the 20TB range, so investing a lot of money into HDDs right now could be unwise unless you really need the space.

Anyone have data on the Athlon 200GE? Benchmarks for various things, differences memory speed makes for the GPU is what I'm mostly looking for.

I missed an opportunity to buy 8700 for 310eu couple of months ago and now stuck choosing between 9700k (425eu) 8700k (400eu) and 8700 (370eu). Thing is, I already bought shadow rock slim air cooler so I am concerned about thermal throttling with these higher tiered cpus.

Intel gains more from a good OC than from RAM speed. Don't be mistaken, it benefits from both good RAM speed and OC, but you'd have more gains by OC'ing your CPU than OC'ing your RAM. Kind of a waste to have a 6700K and not OC it I reckon.

Send your cooler back. You don't cool a housefire, especially one that can't be delided (9700K) with a small air cooler. And don't buy the locked chip.
>But I can't return it!
Too bad, you'll have to double dip. Next time you'll know: buy nice or buy twice.

thanks for the info user, reconsidered and got a cheap shingled 3tb drive for the same price as the 2tb.

Thanks for the info. I'll look for a motherboard that doesn't require that.

For the guy who asked for it, here's my build so far. I got the video card for free, already bought the power supply, and got the monitor for cheap.
pcpartpicker.com/list/D3dnr6

I'm just using it for moderate gaming, got a lot of low spec games I want to play. I assume the first thing I need to upgrade when the time comes will be to get more RAM.

I was also considering just getting a 1TB SSD instead of what I have on that list. I heard it can be kind of a pain in the ass getting two drives working, but maybe the friend who told me that is just retarded.

get some type of B450 mobo.

user, just pick a B450 Mortar/Tomahawk. Yeah I know it's a hundred buck, but just pick the nice board and be done with it. If you want to cheap out, pick up a grey market Win10 key. Also, 8GB is really low: go for 16GB.

>I heard it can be kind of a pain in the ass getting two drives working
It's not, but a small 128GB drive will fill lightning fast. Hell, even 256GB will fill quickly (been there, done that) so with current SSD prices, just pick up a single 1TB drive, it will be simpler.

Looking for a new GPU, should i get an RX480 or RX570?

I'm trying to avoid ""refurbished"" models that are actually crypto deadends or anything along those lines

My current GPU is a HD7850 2GB so by selling that one i was hoping to cut the cost of the new GPU down by at least half or more

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I thought the point of a dual drive setup was to put the bulk of your data on the HDD and just your OS and frequently accessed files on the SSD. Is that correct? Seems like it would have plenty of room for just that type of thing.

I'm in the market now for a better GPU (currently using a 980). I'm thinking about getting a gently used 1080 or something. Should I wait until after Christmas? I'm thinking a good number of people might upgrade and sell theirs then.

I got a new rx 570 asus 4gb for 110€ last week. I advise you to do the same for 1080p 60 fps

Yeah, but that's when your SSD is too small to contain all your stuff. So it's either when you have a very small SSD, which makes no sense anymore nowadays and that's why I told you to just pick up a single 1TB SSD... or when you have a huge porn collection and/or want to make backups (which you should, it can save your ass), where you'll need a big fat HDD to store everything.

I just bought an old office computer for $185 did I fuck up?

i5 4590 / 8Gb / 500Gb / gtx 750 Ti

Depending on if it’s 1x8Gb or 2x4Gb gonna upgrade to 16 or 32Gb since that old RAM is cheap.

Yeah the 570 seems to be a very decent card for its price from what i read and i keep hearing about people snagging new sealed units up for 100 bucks or less

I'll keep my eyes peeled for any special offers

Hopefully the drivers won't be a hassle again, last time i tried to "sweep" them with that piece of crap DDU i had to do a complete sys restore in safe mode lol

you could probably sell that as some shitty gayman pc for just over $200

Probably wasn't worth it.

Just want to do normal computer shit but needed a dvi-do port for an old 30” dell monitor. Otherwise I could have bought almost the same shit in SFF for like $100 with shitty intel igpu. Also almost tempted by i7 4790 with 16Gb RAM for like $200 but wasn’t sure if those SFF office shit desktops could handle a discrete gpu.

Hi.

The 1070 Ti (model in pic) has 6 and 8 pin connectors. Do I need to connect them all or not? I am not planning to OC it any time soon, as far as I know it does some kind of an auto boost by itself already.

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Fucking plug them user, it's not decoration or facultative.

Ok ok, I was just surprised to see a 6 pin there. I looked at the pictures of other models of the same GPU and those only have 8 pin.

Speaking of GPUs with multiple power connectors.
When a GPU comes with 2 6+2 power connectors, is it ok to use a power cable with both 6+2 on the same cable (dual), or should I use 2 separate 6+2 cables?

Plug them all. The only optional power connectors are secondary EPS12v (4/8 pin) on the motherboard, and even then they're only optional if you're not using HEDT stuff/overclocking.

>Do I need to connect them all or not?

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If it's a Gaming/Gaming X, it's likely factory OC'd. It needs the extra juice to do what you paid for.

>When a GPU comes with 2 6+2 power connectors, is it ok to use a power cable with both 6+2 on the same cable (dual), or should I use 2 separate 6+2 cables?
The answer to that is the same as for "Can the PSU handle it?" If you have two cables use the two cables. Don't try to cheap out on things like power, you will regret it eventually. And don't use splitters.

what mouse

Depends of your hand size.
>youtube.com/channel/UCGJaDZC7PChgd-XMwcbZkiw/videos

t. Kone AIMO user

Those both give me the same incompatibility message:

Some AMD B350 chipset motherboards may need a BIOS update prior to using Pinnacle Ridge CPUs. Upgrading the BIOS may require a different CPU that is supported by older BIOS revisions.

Did I choose a bad CPU or something, or do I just need to spend a lot more to get a motherboard without this problem?

DISREGARD THAT i suck cock

If my motherboard doesnt have more sys fan connectors but has a shit ton of things like RGB connectors and the entire line at the bottom, can I just connect a 4 pin fan anywhere/somewhere in there?

>If you want to cheap out, pick up a grey market Win10 key.
Or just get a fucking .iso and use AutoKMS. Paying for an OS that spies on you? Come on.

RTFM. No, seriously, read the fucking manual.

Enjoy your ransomware, brainlet

Damn, I got a good Be Quiet 120 mm fan, fresh for free but I am out of sys fan connectors.

Heh, when I installed it you could just pirate Win7, "up"grade to Win10 and Microsoft would offer you a free official key, because they really didn't give a shit. After that you could do whatever you want, wipe it, reinstall from scratch or whatever, you'd keep your key.

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Just get it from MDL you dumb shit.

pcpartpicker.com/list/CPZxjy

Okay how's this look?

this is a really stupid idea because you're going to end up with a shitty motherboard that blows mosfets under high load or one with a bad DAC

16GB you scrub. 8 is for your mom's tablet.

STOP TOUCHING THE CONTACTS ERMAHGERD

The most intensive games I want to play all recommend 8GB. Everywhere else but /v/ says 8GB is plenty for a few more years. I can always upgrade later. I don't see why I need 16GB.

In the world where you have strictly nothing opened in the background aside from your game, yes, you can get away with it. In 2018's reality, it's over. Cheap PC come with 8GB.

>I can always upgrade later
Dual-channel performs better than quad-channel and better than single-channel. That means for optimal performance you'll need to sell your sticks and replace them, not just add more RAM. Don't think like that user.

When games recommend 8GB they usually mean with nothing open in the background. Windows already reserves 2GB just to function so you only have 6GB left for games with absolutely nothing open.

seriously, who the fuck tries to remove the ram heatsink? just buy it without the gay memesink it's cheaper anyway.

Since RX580 is a good GPU for 1080p what kind of monitor would go well with it ?
Is there much difference between it and the GTX1060?
Are "Asus ROG Strix" or "Gigabyte Aorus" good brands to buy from for the RX580?

16gb in 2018 is just a waste of money. wait a year or two.

>580 if you can get the '2 free games deal' they perform pretty much the same except the rx580 has more vram
>asus
>60hz monitor w/ freesync

I can't get the deal, should I still get the RX580?

get the rx580 if you play newer games, 1060 if you play older games.
reason being is that the rx580 isn't as good as the 1060 on older versions of DX (i think DX9 suffers the most)

Not exactly building but I'm running out of space and don't have room for a new hard drive. Thinking of getting something like this for all my torrented media. Would anyone recommend?

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holy fuck how much shit do you torrent

It's fine

My pc only has 3 TB but I was thinking about going big.

On a 300 - 350 budget want to game and using USD

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Get a 5TB 2.5".
3.5" with the weight and power requirements are a pain in the ass if you ever need to move the drive for any reason like lending to a friend, or moving data to another computer. Four 2.5" drives even take up less space than a single 3.5".

If I'm buying my PC over the course of 2 or 3 months, what parts should I buy first? Or does the market not change enough for 2-3 months to make a difference?

Wait for Xmas / New Year's sales.

>what parts should I buy first?
It's not really "first", it's more about planning your build in advance and finding the good deals. Storage is supposed to get cheaper especially for SSDs, cases, monitors and PSUs shouldn't change too much for the foreseeable near future and RAM is still jacked up by the cartel. It's much more about striking the right deal really.

Should I give up on 1440p 144hz ips and get 1080p 144hz tn and 1080p ips instead? I'm having horrible luck.

A store I'm looking to buy parts from has seperate 8gb ram sticks but no 2x package, if I buy 2 sticks of the exact same model it would be fine, right?

I've never built a computer before. Any way I can shave more money off this build? Only gonna be gaming with it. Also, I'm in Japan so I chose some based on their availability here, as well as wanting to make the smallest tower possible
pcpartpicker.com/list/XnpgHh

1440π 144hz tn is the patrician choice

Is it worth it upgrading from 1070Ti Armor to RXV64 Red Devil for $60 @4k60 Win7/DX11?

I'm hyped for Hitman 2 and want to experience it in full 4k instead of 1800p.

>upgrading
You mean downgrading

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What the fuck, Hitman 1 was heavily biased towards ATI and they use the same engine for 2. I read they just removed DX12 so that may be why.

Well paired with lower framerates in GTAV and the rest of the games I ever play being CPU-bound (CS:GO, Cities:Skylines, BeamNG.drive) I'll wait some more and upgrade to a used GTX1080Ti for $150ish.

But I want to have accurate colors no matter how I look at the screen.

where do you get all these pics?