Lube your linears and buy hotswap for your first board edition
>Buyer's template:
pastebin.com
>Where to Buy:
pastebin.com
>FAQs:
pastebin.com
>Use the buyer's template
pastebin.com
>Group Buys
Deskthority, Geekhack, Massdrop
>Keyboard wiki
deskthority.net
Last thread
should i order custom WASD 60% (which is a poker 3) with the color keys i want or buy poker from amazon and hunt for the key caps
What’s the superior keyboard layout? Any of you use Dvorak or others besides QWERTY?
>Budget
~$200
>Location
USA
>Preferred switch type
Linear
>Layout
ANSI
>Form factor
TKL or 75% (want arrow keys)
>Backlight
don't need it
>Previous/current keyboards
CM Pro M, GMMK TKL, Model M
Pretty much any of the alt layouts are superior to qwerty. Just depends on if you can be assed to learn one. There was an user some threads ago that uses workman.
WASD keycaps are garbage. Only get them if tai-hao or gateron doesn't sell the exact colors you want
XD84
KBD75
is this a yearly reminder?
Hello guys, my first post here, so let's hope this goes well. The Logitech K120 is the best keyboard I have ever tried. It only cost me 8£ brand new. Why is it good you ask? I shall tell you.
Well, first of all: this keyboard is from Logitech, which is undoubtedly the best keyboard manufacturer today. It is a rather common keyboard, yes; but because it is a Logitech, somehow it doesn't feel cheap. It's like the brand itself makes a crappy keyboard turn into a great one. I don't know, Logitech has always made me feel comfortable with cheaper products. The keys are superbly well distributed, and your fingers won't touch the surrounding keys like some other ones I've tried. The keys are also not very soft, nor very hard to press down on. You know, this keyboard makes it just right, so that you can actually take advantage of the impulse that the rebounding keys give you.
This keyboard makes you feel like gravity is actually working WITH you, rather that against you.
Another thing I absolutely love about it, is the space bar. It is just the right size, and not too small or too big like on some other crappy keyboards from other manufacturers. The space bar is the most balanced key in the whole keyboard, it sits right at the center, and you can actually use it without looking at the keyboard. I mean, that's just brilliant design. It's an USB keyboard. This makes it perfect for use with modern computers, and even laptops and netbooks. No more using that old crappy PS/2 port. We're in 2018, people. I could be here all day, but in the end, I just wanted to share with you my experience with this marvelous piece of peripheral engineering. I recommend this keyboard to anyone.
Add this to the next OP please OP.
HOTSWAP GUIDE FOR NEWFRIENDS: pastebin.com
See above.
>GK61
That should be GK64 right?
OwO
any of you built your own board? how's the experience of buying the shit and putting it together?
Colemak is much better than Dvorak.
I know this is copy pasta, but I really do like Logitech. The K840 is a great keyboard for the price.
No! The gk64 has that gay layout. I mean the gk61
pc-100.com
amazon.com
>budget
$3000 max, $1000 min
>location
USA
>preferred switch type
something with the feel and loudness of a beamspring with the ability to hit 140 WPM like on a buckling spring
>layout
ANSI, commodore, symbolics, and atreus layouts are all fine with me
>form factor
140-key minimum
>backlight
it'd be nice, but not required. i use a thinklight mostly.
>previous/current keyboards
IBM 3727, IBM Enhanced Keyboard (2nd Gen), AST KB-101, an assortment of custom VIC-20 lookalikes
Are browns good
No the only 'good' mx tactile switches are not available in prebuilt keyboards. You will need a hotswap board, full custom build, or buy a custom second hand in order to use ergoclears or zealios or maybe even those holy pandas on massdrop
yes
I don't have the patience for thatr
browns feel like reds with dirt in them
Put some box navies in this, mill a stainless steel case for it.
I'm using blues now but my problem with them is that some of the switches wear out eventually and become unclicky, and I can't abide a board with some keys clicky and some not. If it's going to be that way wouldn't it be better if none of them clicked from the start?
someone should buy that, even just ironically.
sounds like greens would work for you
How difficult is it to change out the offending switches with new ones?
I don't know, seems too complicated for me. I was barely even able to get those stupid stabilizer bars back on when I tried to clean this fucker the other day in hopes it might help.
Just looked it up, as I've never done so myself either. You just need a couple soldering tools.
You can do it, I believe in you.
youtube.com
if you ever fuck with me again i swear to god
I did an entire fullsize board as my first desoldering project, with a bit of soldering experience beforehand.
It was a shitload of work and I wouldn't recommend it to anyone, but a single switch is easy enough, especially if it doesn't have an LED installed.
what happened to the user with pic related? he used to post all the time but havent seen him around lately
then buy topre or linear
you do need to be able to sit still for like an hour but I know that's asking a lot of someone for something they'll use for a decade
>Budget
100-150€
>Location (continent at least)
Germany
>Preferred switch type
Want it to be hotswappable
>Layout
ISO(-DE)
>Form factor
60% or TKL
>Backlight
Dont need
>Previous/current keyboards
Ducky ONE TKL
I like my Ducky but I wanna try more switches and 60% sometime
I just spent like an hour making this Basically you want a gk61 kit
Haven't you taken the Romer-G pill yet?
Is owning a Leopold FC750PD based and redpilled?
I once researched a bit about the GK64 and one problem was that there is no fitting plates for the stabs since its got an untypical layout
does the gk61 have the same problem?
It's one of the better prebuilt boards out there, so make of that what you will.
That's exactly why you want the GK61 over the GK64.
also heard the software is shit
Stop typing like a neanderthal.
Post aesthetic 60%s.
>both hands along the same slant
That is not how hands work and you know it.
D, X, and R are on the left-hand slant, not D, E, and C. I can see W being hit with the ring finger, but hitting E with the middle is batshit,
Exent is love
Exent is life
>magic
>funk
It works just fine. Typing that way feels comfortable, despite how the angle looks. If you look closely the B is shifted slightly to the left, and the Y is closer to the right hand.
Hitting X with the ring finger makes the most sense, look at how your wrist turns, it turns inwards, towards your body. This is most natural. If you hit X with your middle finger, your wrist turns slightly outwards. Try it yourself.
I need to know if Box Jades will make me go insane after two days of typing.
Does loud clicking annoy you? If yes, then the answer is obvious.
>look at how your wrist turns
See this. There's your problem. Typing with your wrist? Enjoy your carpal tunnel.
It's just a tiny little bit, if any at all. I've been typing for like 20 years, and never had any pain in my hands or wrists.
I don't like loud switches and neither should you.
Love my gk64 with aliaz 70g. The chink software isn't the greatest but they've updated it like 3 times this week and I've now been able to program the 3 layers exactly as I want, so I don't need QMK at this stage.
Am I the only one who actually loves MX browns and thinks blues/reds/clears are all meme shit?
Yes. Browns are dogshit.
Most people hate on browns because they are the most popular and therefore don't have the hipster cred that appeals to the mechanical keyboard crowd.
The OEM stabs rattle terribly but I replaced them all with cherry plate stabs on the weekend (lubed with permatex dielectric grease) and it has made a massive difference. Didn't been have to remove the plate to swap them, just the switches in each of the 4 keys. You can't use a PCB stab on the left shift because of the plate shape.
topre.
So can we stop the GWOB now? There's literally nothing wrong with browns.
imagine paying top dollar for rubber domes
>Budget
$100-150
>Location
USA
>Preferred Switch Type
Something like MX blues but a little quieter
>Layout
ANSI
>Form Factor
100%
>Backlight
Preferred, but not necessary
>Current Keyboard
BlackWidow Ultimate with razer greens (was super cheap at the time)
GMMK or that Assdrop one
anything with matias quiet clicks
mechanicalkeyboards.com has some
I love how your pictures trigger yuropoors daily. Keep up the good fight.
I prefer Romer-G over Cherry Browns.
For anyone considering a GK61/62/64, the official site for the software is here - jikedingzhi.com
Has anyone got a link to the company out of California that recently started advertising pre-lubed tactile switches, similar to zealios? The name escapes me
anyone have experience trampoline modding switches? I'm using Plasti-Dip (couldn't find craft latex, which would have been the ideal choice) on the top housing to dampen the upstroke of the stem. Currently demo-ing the method on a Cherry Red that I don't care about. One coating did just about nothing for the sound and didn't affect the travel. Currently have coat two on the upper housing and waiting for it to dry. If anyone has had success with this mod, could I ask for any tips? Otherwise, I guess I'll have to drop money for QMX clips.
Arctos.
Has anyone used Aliexpress to ship a keyboard to Canada before? Amazon.com has the keyboard and will ship it to Canada and tells me exactly the price of the shipping/duty fees. Aliexpress says free shipping but doesn't say anything about duty/import.
Going by the totals that the websites give me, it would be 3 bucks more on Amazon.com but will I get hit with extra duty fees that Aliexpress isn't including?
Thank you!
All the clicky Kailh Box are nearly the same how am I supposed to pick one
Just get box navies. Thick clickbar so it's super tactile and the spring is heavier so you don't bottom out all the time.
Aren't they too heavy for long typing sessions?
I don't think so, but then that depends on how girly your fingers are.
I'm reading that Kailh Box switches break keycaps even after a supposed retooling. How much of an issue is this?
>jade: C L I C K with some response problems
>navy: hard as fuark, made for bear fighters
>white: gotta go fast
>pale blues: perfect balance made by angels
Not much assuming you aren't using GMK keycaps. If you're really paranoid about stressing keycaps then get yourself one of these
I would have normally thought , but I use 80g tactiles and even I thought the navies were a bit much; possibly because the clickbar is so much heavier. Jades are a safe choice where you get the best of thick click and high, but perhaps not overbearing, resistance.
Was a smooth linear switch? Got a Kira coming at some point and went with coppers a year ago when I ordered but since I think I decided I like linear switches for everything
replying to myself here, but in case anyone else is interested, I had success reducing the upstroke by dabbing two coatings of the Plasti-Dip at the top of the stem on each side instead of the housing. Noticeably quieter return compared to a Cherry Black I have to it.
Topre or Holy Panda switches?
I'd get the holy meme over rubber domes to be honest. You can always get a topre board but the same can't be said for the meme switches.
>Budget
$150
>Location
Chile
>Preferred switch type
I don't know any. I *think* I'd rather have less noisy switches, I don't understand the actuation stuff.
>Layout
ISO. Spanish. It's a must, as I'm a language specialist.
>Form factor
100% or 80% + an additional 10 key stuff.
>Backlight
God, no.
>Previous/current keyboards
Rubbery microsoft wireless thingy. I want into a nicer typing experience, considering it's the most important part of my job, timewise.
topre with bke extreme domes.
>tfw typing on BKE extremes
Rip just received some bke heavies
is there such a thing as a short action and silent mechanical keyboard? I don't like those full keys.
yes, pic related
Thanks
Is there a name for this type of keyboard layout?
96key
Retarded.
>Budget
~$200
>Location
USA
>Preferred switch type
Tactile
>Layout
ANSI
>Form factor
Anything bigger than HHKB layout
>Previous/current keyboards
Some shitty Coolermaster with reds, Filco Majestouch 2 (browns), Vortex Race 3(clears), Tokyo 60 - current
Prefer hot-swap switches now that I have a tokyo60
Based
>can't afford a proper home planet because he wastes all of his money on mechanical keyboards
comfy
projecting and totally fucking jealous
Why aren't there OS-tans but for switches?
topre
when the FUCK are my zilents shipping