/pcbg/ - PC Building General

!!CES Jan. 8 - 11. Strong advisory to buy after CES announcements!!

>Assemble a part list
pcpartpicker.com/
>Example gaming builds; click on blue titles to see notes
pcpartpicker.com/user/pcbg/saved/
>How to assemble a PC
youtube.com/watch?v=69WFt6_dF8g

Want help?
>State the budget & CURRENCY
>Post at least some attempt at a parts list
>List your uses, e.g. Gaming, Video Editing, VM Work
>For monitors, include purpose (e.g., photoediting, gaming) and graphics card pairing (if applicable)

CPUs based on current pricing:
>Athlon 200GE - HTPC, web browsing, bare minimum gaming (can be OC'd on some MSI mobos)
>R3 2200G - Recommended minimum gaming
>R5 2400G - Consider IF on sale
>R5 2600/X - Good gaming & multithreaded work use CPUs
>i7-9700k/8700k - Extreme setup with RTX 2080/Ti
>R7 2700/X - Best value high-end CPU on a non-HEDT platform
>Threadripper/Used Xeon - HEDT

RAM:
>Always choose at least a two stick kit; 2x 8GB is recommended
>CPUs benefit from high speed RAM; 3000CL15 or 3200CL16 is ideal
>AMD B and X chipsets and Intel Z chipets support XMP

Graphics cards based on current pricing:
>Used cards can be had for a steal; inquire about warranty
1080p
>GTX 1060 (bad value), RX 570, RX 580 are standard choices
>GTX 1070/Ti if you're looking for very high (100+) framerates and you have a CPU and monitor to match
1440p
>GTX 1070/Ti and Vega 56 are standard choices
>RTX 2080 if you're looking for very high (100+) framerates and you have a CPU and monitor to match
2160p (4K)
>RTX 2080 is the standard choice
>RTX 2080Ti is better for 4K but expensive

General:
>PLAN YOUR BUILD AROUND YOUR MONITOR IF GAMING
>A 256GB or larger SSD is almost mandatory; consider m.2 form factor
>Bottleneck checkers are worthless
>rentry.co/pcbg-more

Previous:

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Other urls found in this thread:

pcpartpicker.com/product/DHPzK8/team-vulcan-16gb-2-x-8gb-ddr4-3000-memory-tlgd416g3000hc16cdc01
pcpartpicker.com/product/PCKcCJ/asrock-b450-pro4-atx-am4-motherboard-b450-pro4
pcpartpicker.com/list/QHByBb
pcpartpicker.com/list/mJzHjy
pcpartpicker.com/list/4RP7Bb
amazon.com/dp/B0719498XY/?tag=pcpapi-20
twitter.com/NSFWRedditGif

Why is Seasonic so best

What's a good cooler for a Ryzen 7 2700x?

Noctua
>AIO if you are a faggot

not overclocking = stock cooler
mild overclocking = hyper 612
heavy overclocking = 240mm aio or custom loop

Woah dudes a 1080ti for less than $120 on ebay!! Get it right now before it goes out of stock!! What the FUCK?!

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they make their own power supplies instead of buying one from another company and slapping a logo on it.

It was probably used for heavy mining.

I just thought it was a fake listing. By heavy mining do you mean not underclocked/undervolted?

yes, cryptocoin mining. Run 24/7 for a year

I'm probably doing something retarded, but when I try to install my RAM on the Mobo, it won't go all the way in. It appears that the gap in the RAM and the slot are off by a very small margin, but both should be DDR4 compatible. The slot only has one catch, and I've tried pushing one side in at a time, but I can't figure out what I'm doing wrong.

Here are the parts:
Ram: pcpartpicker.com/product/DHPzK8/team-vulcan-16gb-2-x-8gb-ddr4-3000-memory-tlgd416g3000hc16cdc01
Mobo: pcpartpicker.com/product/PCKcCJ/asrock-b450-pro4-atx-am4-motherboard-b450-pro4

I know the RAM is better used with Intel processors, but I figured if I did experience any problems with it, it would be when booting up the computer, not during the building phase.

enjoy your 1 week lifetime

I doubt it is a miner card, they would retail for a lot more. I highly suspect it's one of those fake reflashed cards that makes it report its a 1080ti in GPU-Z but is actually some 6xx-7xx series card.

Didn't mean to quote

I didn't post that unironically so you need not worry for my mental health user

Read the mobo manual, it should tell you how to install the RAM properly

You're probably being a pussy when pushing it in. It's absolutely compatible, all DDR4 rams are compatible between each other. Do it, faggot.

Are you sure it's not one of those "for parts only" fried cards?

How do I test my used eBay card to make sure it isn't fucked? I've run fur mark for 20 minutes so far and played gayman for a couple hours. Sapphire nitro+ rx580 if you're curious

Not really gaining a whole lot of insight here.

I've already applied a fair amount of force, but that seems to be the direction I'm heading. I just want to make sure I've exhausted all other options before I do.

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So I'm looking to build a new gaming PC as mine is 6 years old and I'm surprised it hasn't just exploded at this point. I have a budget of around 800$ plus the cost of getting windows 10. I'm not super great at computers just looking to be able to stream, edit music, and run new games at a steady 1080p 60fps for the next couple years. I've put together a starting point if anyone has any ideas on what I should change or add.
pcpartpicker.com/list/QHByBb

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run your favorite games and unigine heaven benchmark. if temps are fine, fans aren't making grinding noises, and you see no artifacts/errors then it's fine.

Just push bro.

Thanks, bro. I had some smoked salmon, then jammed it in. I couldn't have done it without you.

dumb question but what are the temp differences between an air cooled itx system with the front fan uninstalled and one with it intalled

It depends you’ll have to see for yourself. As long as you are able to pump the hot air out of your case and keep it relatively cool in there then you don’t need anything on the front.

Im looking to buy a m.2 pcie ssd, preferably 250gb one. Which one is the best brand?

yeah my temps are actually fine but the cpu fans are pretty loud so I was thinking I might make it better by installing a front fan to smooth out the airflow or something
thanks user

I also ran unigine and it didn't get about ~60C in furmark so it seems fine desu

I'm looking to pick up a second monitor that can support two HDMI outputs, so I can plug in a console and my PC and switch between the two. Any particular suggestions or anything I should avoid?

Suggest 1440p 120+Hz monitor pls

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user who possibly cooked his ssd yesterday here.

The last two boots that Ive attempted from a shutdown, my pc never loads completely. My monitors won't display anything more than a black screen so I hold down the power button to shut it off. I power it back on and it boots right up through the uefi screen and to the os no problem, everything else works as expected. What could my drive possibly mean by this?

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I love you, user.

Acer XB271HU bmiprz

I've been enjoying my MSI MPG27CQ

>air color
>9th gen

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Looks fine man, can save some bucks just getting an OEM version of windows off ebay

great start, although for 1080p 60fps the 1070 is probably overkill. this is more realistic for you:
pcpartpicker.com/list/mJzHjy

Ye i want to upgrade like 2 gpus
2070 is good enoungh start for 1440p
8 threads is all you need for next gen consoles+

Slightly offtopic, but is there any programm that lets you scan all your drives for corrupt files (especially wavs)? deperately need one.

pcpartpicker.com/list/4RP7Bb
Any way to make this 3000 dollars?

That would be a big old YIKES out of me tbhfam

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You should get a couple of new ones for your cpu heatsink and use the old ones as case fans that are set constantly at a low rpm. Definitely worth it if the fans are annoying you.

Is a 580 good enough though to last the next couple years or so with new games and keeping up at 1080 60fps?

It’s already a bitch enough coming up with the right monitor. I would look for some kind of adapter with a toggle switch on it. I bet china has a million of them ready to go in a warehouse somewhere. Would eliminate a factor in getting the right monitor.

p-pls respond

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Depends on if you want gsync or not

580 can handle all current AAA trash aside from maybe ghost recon wildlands, which is hot garbage on even the most expensive cards, so I would imagine it will handle most games at high or medium for the foreseeable future

How much is this in real money?

Isnt't Gsync(Freesync for sub 60 fps?

Not entirely sure I’m on the same page because I’m drunk but I would throw Ubuntu onto a flash drive and see if you can boot it since you don’t need to use your ssd to get into it. From there you may be able to do tests and shit. If your ssd is fucked, maybe you could make an image of it, rma it, and copy the data over to the new one.

No it’s still going to give you some real good smoothness above 60fps

1440p 120+ btw

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Well I won't be able to RMA is because I fucked something up and cooked it yesterday, see pic related. Theres pretty noticeable scorch marks and melted plastic on the ssd but it still works. I just can't figure out why it won't boot the first time, but it boots ezpz the second try.

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You wouldn't even recommend getting say a Vega 56 or 1060 over a 580? I just wanna make sure I buy the right card that'll last me awhile my current one is a 7850 so I'm desperate here

Y-You too. I'll take good care of it. Now for the fun part.

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I guess only the architects of the thing would be able to tell you. I guess I would prob just make a backup because it’s high risk for death and try to rma it anyway because worst case scenario you just don’t get your deposit back. Best case the underpayed guys just don’t give a fuck and let it slide especially if you play stupid saying it got fried from completely normal use.

Is the Vega 56/64 really as loud as people are saying? Got my eyes on the Newegg deal for a $400 64

Blower cards are loud

Is it normal for a pin to be empty on the ATX cable?

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Yes, reference blower Vega 56/64 hits 55dBa+

Maybe just try it out man and see if the mobo takes it. It’s prob going to notice if the power it’s getting isn’t right.

when the 24 pin ATX connector standard was first introduced, it had alot of extra pins for future features and stuff. Some mobos don't use certain pins, and some connectors don't. Another relic of technology outpacing form factors and vice versa

If only there was some way to find out by searching some online database of images.

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Sounds good.

Interesting. Thanks for the info.

Well I would honestly recommended waiting to see how 7nm amd looks and then decide from there. If you absolutely must buy now, get a 580, and if you must buy now and be 100% confident that you won't have to upgrade for a few years, get a 1070ti or a Vega 56. Otherwise the 580 will carry you for a while and likely stay functional, without the $300 loss if you end up deciding to upgrade within that timeframe.

whats a good website to find a bunch of game benchmarks ? im looking at the 8700k

>intel

Also I forgot to add, don't you dare get a 1060 over a 580, its more money for the same card in some games, and a worse card in other games. If you want to spend $150 get a 570, if you want to spend $200 get a 580, if you want to spend $300 try to get a Vega 56, if you want to spend $400 get a 1070ti. Under no circumstances should you consider a 1060.

Okay so I will have the money to buy the entire thing by March. Should I just go with the 580 then for now or get something better and put in more money?

I need a large capacity (8TB+) HDD that won't bottleneck 1Gbit write speeds!

Please help. :(

why does it need to be 3000

almost no modern hdd has problems writing large files at 1gbps+

1gbps is only 125MB/s, my 5TB WD black 7200RPM drive writes at 220MB/s, and my 5400 RPM 4TB drives write at a good 150-160MB/s

obviously if you want to write a fuck ton of tiny ass files, that's going to take a lot longer, even on a high performance HDD.

>$40 mousepad

step down to a 2080 instead of the 2080ti.

The price for performance difference between the two is absurd.

If you plan to buy in march we may know more by then about new amd gpus, but I would say to budget for a 580 and see what happens.

for pure gaming as long as he has the budget, intel is simply better.

Just going to be torrenting relatively large (20GB+) files directly to it.
Could I get away with a 10TB 5400RPM WD Purple or should I look at 7200RPM Ironwolfs?

i have 1gbps internet and regularly torrent directly to my 5400 RPM hdds.

I'm sitting on around 15-16TB of content.

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I received a "new" "3TB" hard drive from amazon. It seems to have a previous users porn and weird arabic music on it (it was reformatted but easily recovered.) And it only has 2TB available as far as I can tell. However smart data reports that it has never been powered on before me and has 3TB of space. Some other tools do see it as having 3TB of space. But my paritioning tool seems to be unable to use it.

Is it possible they messed with the firmware and reset the smart data? Or even lied about the size? What's weird is that it does show a test was done at 46k hours of use. Even though it says it's only been run for a few hours. So they forgot or weren't able to clear that. But I've never heard of this being done before.

The seller has 99% positive feedback. And is the default seller for this part (and it was fullfilled through amazon.) But it is literally the cheapest drive on amazon, and a lot of the reviews claim they received used drives that claimed to be new (but nothing like the manipulation I'm describing or it only being 2TB. And they weren't even through the same seller.)

Just a warning to be careful when buying drives.

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I'll still be able to get 144fps with the 2080 at 1440p?

The 2080Ti is only 10% faster, so if you're not able to hit 144fps with a 2080, you probably wont be hitting 144fps with a 2080ti either.

It will just depend on the game.

There are few games that would be worth the extra expense of the 2080Ti in my opinion, it's like 35% higher cost for 10% frame rate increase.

Completed my new build.
I want to thank you guys for keeping me level-headed about the items purchased. I obtained what I needed and avoided the memes. This build should get me through another 3-to-4 years.

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When building a PC, what can I lay my motherboard on while I fit the RAM, CPU and cooler on? I see people on YouTube work on a table but won't you need a mat of some kind so you don't damage the back of the motherboard? Also how do I ground myself if I don't the anti static wrist strap?

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Great, probably gonna go for one of these then amazon.com/dp/B0719498XY/?tag=pcpapi-20
Thanks for your help user

Motherboard box

>Intel is simply better
>doesn't explain why
this is why we hate you shills

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Will the 2080 Ti decrease in price? At least if it goes to 999.

everyone knows why, intel has superior single core performance, if you don't know this you haven't been paying attention for the past decade.

Intel having the clockspeed advantage negates AMDs thread advantage since 90% of games wont benefit from the extra threads since they're all designed for 8 thread APUs in consoles, of which only 7 threads can be used for the game itself.

So an 8 core CPU, or 6 core/12 thread CPU, either the 9700k or 8700k, are going to perform better than the 2700x in the vast majority of games if paired with the same GPU.

Wait for CES and buy a 3700x and upgrade that 2070 to a 2080 if you want to play at 1440p@120hz. Also, it seems that you're searching for a monitor, so I recommend the Acer XB271HU bmiprz.

Unlikely anytime soon, there is no competition

lower latency and higher clocks. the same reasons as always when it comes to 4th gen+ intel vs Ryzen.

>Wait for CES and buy a 3700x
lmao, it wont even be announced at CES, let alone launched.

Nope.

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Use the bag that your mobo comes in as a little mat to build on, and do it all on a sturdy table of some sort, and you'll be fine.

lol that says TBA CES, meaning if that leak WERE real (and it's probably not), then they would be ANNOUNCING the product at CES, for launch 2-3 months later.

If user wants to build a computer today, saying wait a week just so they can sit and wait another 2-3 months is a hard pill to swallow when the 9700k already outperforms the current AMD lineup and is available today

post pic of pc running