Anyone have any experiences with UPS's what's the best brand? What specific functionality should I be looking for?

What's wrong with cyberpower? Honest question

From personal experience, I've had them go out on me (battery died a few months after warranty expired). I wouldn't have been so bummed if I could still have used the surge protector in it, but you can't.
I wouldn't waste money on something that is inferior when it is critical for properly running equipment.

Nothing, APC subcontracts/rebrands Cyberpower for some of their UPS'es

>battery died a few months after warranty expired
They don't make their batteries so it's not really their fault. Just get some off amazon, they're like ~2$/Ah

Yeah. I am not paying that much for them if I can't use the surge protector from it without a battery.

You're supposed to replace the battery every 3 - 5 years regardless if it works or not.

>I wouldn't have been so bummed if I could still have used the surge protector in it, but you can't.
Modern line conditioners are essentially a dual-conversion sine-wave UPS with no batteries. They eat surges pretty damn well. (Old ferroresonant line conditioners are essentially 30-pound inductors, and they also eat surges pretty damn well)

I've never read that anywhere.
How many joules are they typically rated for?

You apparently need to do a little more research, beyond Jow Forums.

Or an island or somewhere remote.

>surge protector

It's just a bunch of MOVs attached to the output. Why would they stop working?

APC

All lead acid batteries have a lifespan friendo. Jow Forums amirite?

>I've never read that anywhere.
Lead batteries need to be replaced every 5-10 years on average. Have you never driven a car?
>How many joules are they typically rated for?
Joules are a meme for MOV based surge protectors. (And often they just add up MOVs across LN, LG, and NG to get high numbers.) Joules will tell you nothing about how well they suppress surges but rather how long the MOVs will last before going thermonuclear.

If you're really worried about protection, then you should get a series mode filter (like zerosurge or surgex) which is basically an inductor in series with the outlets that acts as a low pass filter that kills spikes. You can send multi-kilovolt spikes all day long and it won't fail like MOVs.

You tell me. I just know that it needs a new battery or it won't work, not even the surge protector.
I don't change the battery in my car more than once in a few decades. Why is that?
>Joules will tell you nothing about how well they suppress surges but rather how long the MOVs will last before going thermonuclear.
And that's why I want to know how many joules they are rated for.

>You tell me. I just know that it needs a new battery or it won't work, not even the surge protector.
Which model do you have? The consumer ones have non-battery protected outlets that should still work.

APC or Cyberpower, period. And pro-tip, you can replace the batteries with generic lead batteries, don't spend extra for APC batteries, it's just $20 extra for a label

I forget what model. It wasn't expensive,

>I am not going to pay $30 for a battery
Okay chief, throw away a functioning UPS and buy a new one for $100 instead

>you will never provide over current protection

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Tons of brainlets do exactly that everyday.

If you want a surge protector, buy a surge protector.
amazon.com/CyberPower-CPS1215RMS-Protector-Outlets-Rackmount/dp/B00077INZU

Functioning? How exactly is it functioning when it doesn't feed power through any of its outlets?
I wanted something a little more reliable than a surge protector, but I didn't expect the thing to shit it's battery after 2 years and then not work at all, even as a surge protector.

It's not broken it just needs a new battery.

>I don't change the battery in my car more than once in a few decades. Why is that?
it's bigger and puts up with more abuse, but any lead-acid discharged to an inch of its life is pretty well fucked.

>the light inside has broken but i still work

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Make sure that it is a sine wave UPS, if not, it will not work with 95 percent of modern psus
The best one is the cyber power pfc sine wave
Cp1500pfcled
If you use Linux the auto shutdown and save software does not work. But it does not matter since I have 7minutes to shut off my pc at load

The chemistry is identical, he just got unlucky, the last UPS battery i had to swap was 8 years old.

it can't do its job as a surge protector without the battery you absolute moron.
what do you think acts as the power supply when the UPS disconnects itself from the grid? A regular surge protector just tried to eat it, a UPS switches to backup power so none of your devices are in danger, even if the UPS can't deal with the surge. If you wanted a fucking surge protector buy a fucking surge protector. if you want a UPS buy that fucker a new battery and keep on rolling

It is possible to hook them up wrong (though you gotta be a complete dingus) or make them overly sensitive so they just kick the battery's ass all day.
He could have also bought one that's too small and plugged a whole battlestation into it, companies make shit products by accident all the time, especially wet-cell batteries holy shit, but in my experience the problem is usually between the keyboard and the chair.

>I wanted something a little more reliable
Like what?

Imagine dying to random discharges into the ground.

This place is so cucked now

CyberPower CP1500AVRT here. My main Windows desktop + Freenas server + monitor are connected to it. Usually uses between 350W~400W.I've had it for about a year now without any issues.

After 1 minute of running on battery power it invokes a script that gracefully shuts down my server.
plink.exe -ssh freenas_ip -l root -i key.ppk -pw shit shutdown -p now

2 minutes after that it shuts down my desktop and then powers off the UPS battery. I get email + text message alerts of any power failure.

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Good PSU manufacturers make good UPSes.
For me, it's FSP. Cheap, monitoring is non-existent (theoretically possible), but smart online scheme works wonders for power interrupts. It's just a backup battery for me and it's good at it.

I don't give a shit about brown outs and black outs. They should've made note in the instruction manual or warranty information that if the battery doesn't work, then the surge outlets not attached to the battery also do not work; i.e. the whole thing is busted because of the battery.

If you were smart you'd keep a spare battery in your closet. Problem solved.

Shitty design. I'd rather pay several hundred $$$ to APC instead of getting something similar from CyberPower at half the cost.

I'm 99% sure you're lying because the non-battery powered outlets on every UPS I've ever owned keep working without a battery

I'd test it but im too lazy to turn my shit off

This. All teardowns on the net show them being wired directly after the circuit breaker.

So you bought an ups thinking because it's more expensive, it must have better surge protection?

You should have bought an isobar or zero-surge.