Audio jacks are technology

For what purpose? The cable itself will self destruct anyway after some months.

Do you apply flux after burning the coating off?

I don't even see the theoretical issue. So this melts tinned copper onto copper/aluminium coated wire (pressed on by a shrinking tube, actually), while at the same time heat shrinking the connection with two sealing "glue dots" applied as well near either end of the shrink.

How is this going wrong even at a theoretical level?

Sure, they would work fine, since they have good jacks anything factory, but sometimes you can't just replace the cable. (for ex. in in-ear meme)
It is easy. Even blindfolded retard can solder them, it is not rocked science, compared to rebelling BGA chips without stencil
Hot-glue strain relief master race. Never failed on me.
Also, your jack looks exactly like I bought, and which were complete junk, since they use rivets...
t. never soldered 2 mm wide stuff.

Dude, you set your soldering iron on "FULL RETARD" temperature and melt varnish.
Best flux is for soldering copper pipes tho. I use it is electronics repair, but too bad this shit is conductive and thus can't be used in BGA reflow.

>t. never soldered 2 mm wide stuff.
What the fuck are you on about?

Attached: sleeves.jpg (1000x1000, 40K)

About jacks.
And yeah, I tried those, I didn't like how they work.

Hm, that image has an obvious mistake, the 0.5-0.1mm should obviously be 0.5-1mm.

Anyhow, no change to the general idea, obviously this design works for most cables quite fine, you merely need to heat 'em at the +- the correct temperature.

I usually burn the insulation and nylon strings with a lighter (scrape the bare wires after with a razor) and then twist the wires together, apply some flux and solder.
Then put some electrical tape to avoid shorts between the individual wires and a heatshrink tube over the whole thing.

>About jacks.
That suggestion was how you can lazily
> splice a new cable on closer to the driver end
Not to solder the actual cable ends to a Jack.

> I didn't like how they work.
I do. Not getting what unspecified issues you have, how they're related to 2mm, or if you're also the other user how enamelled wire wouldn't work with this lazy option.

>That suggestion was how you can lazily
Buy new headphones, obv.
>how they're related to 2mm, or if you're also the other user how enamelled wire wouldn't work with this lazy option.
In order to properly solder those enameled wires, you need high temperature, or something like Aspirin to dissolve varnish.
Sure, you can try lighter, but it makes copper black, which requires good flux....

>In order to properly solder those enameled wires, you need high temperature, or something like Aspirin to dissolve varnish.
That sounds very much like theorycrafting based on other methods.

The melted tinned copper will work fine as it's pushed on from the shrinking cylinder. Can't see how it wouldn't work even if you don't remove the enamel from the wires.

[It actually works fine, you know?]

> Sure, you can try lighter
No, I don't see why you remove the enamel. Just use a heat gun.

>That sounds very much like theorycrafting based on other methods.
Nope. I soldered a lot of things, including headphones and transformers, and from my experience overheated soldering iron with blob of solder is the best way to remove varnish, perfect job every time.
Aspirin smells horribly, when heated.
>The melted tinned copper
Copper melts at 1000+°C.
> Can't see how it wouldn't work even if you don't remove the enamel from the wires.
This blob of solder in tube is not 60/40, it is some low-temperature stuff, which makes sense, since otherwise it would melt the heat shrink.
It won't remove varnish, and it will solder only tips, which is not exactly cool, and this is why you should remove varnish first.

>Copper melts at 1000+°C.
Take the melting point of tin as reference.

I don't know exactly how they composed the tinned copper or whether it's doped otherwise, haven't done any metallurgy anaysis with that. Either way, it melts at low-ish temperatures, closer to tin.

> It won't remove varnish
Yea, I said it doesn't need to! It seems to work completely fine WITH the enamel of the wires.

You'd probably remove the enamel if you wanted to solder conventionally. But with the convetional method, you don't have the shrink wrap to press the solder on and and it's not the same solder mixture anyhow (and it also has more oxygen contact when melted, I think).

Show me that thing with enamel wire in it.

No camera at hand, also not gonna cut open the cable or find one where I removed more insulation than necessary - you wouldn't see the bond anyhow.

You or some other user said it wouldn't work 'cause muh enameled wire. I'm sure it's easy to show show how it didn't / doesn't work out?

Although oddly I didn't even hear HOW that cable failed, so I suspect it's actually bull deduced from working with solder as usual, where it IS annoying to get solder to stick on enameled wire (particularly alu and teflon and shit, I think, but I don't claim to know the exact composition of the enamels that suck to solder on, I just monkey remove / scratch them there as well).