/mkg/ Mechanical keyboards

Do they hand sculpt them or some shit? Why does pouring clear resin over molded plastic cost $50?

Just spend extra and get a hotswap keyboard for 40 bucks
m.aliexpress.com/item/32960262600.html?pid=808_0000_0105&spm=a2g0n.search-amp.list.32960262600&aff_trace_key=ebb0aeba7996416ebeb8e514b0dd8dc4-1550441267482-00686-ujayFeaM3&aff_platform=msite&m_page_id=8401amp-XYHwsu1NBt0E3jQfIZr2bw1550441395616

I need some exotic rare or no longer made switches because I'm a faggot and need to be special

Clears, Greys, yellows, that weird orange one that showed up somehow just shit that isn't around anymore.

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These look pretty and cost under twenty burger coins a piece

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Fuck, I could make caps like that. I never thought of it.
Would you Autists buy custom caps like that with Gondolas or similiar inside?

Attached: qvUEZ8I.jpg (3372x3977, 1016K)

Get a honeywell hall effect board.

massdrop.com/buy/dwarf-factory-pam-artisan-keycap
instagram.com/dwarf.factory/

Looking at their stuff, most of them seem hand painted.
I'm grabbing a mars one because I have no self control

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LOL just get peerless switches

making resin keycaps that aren't either cloudy or full of bubbles is actually somewhat difficult. and yes, many semitransparent keycaps are hand-sculpted, it's usually not worth the effort of making a mold and most artisan makers aren't good enough with computers to model one in 3D and SLA print more

BUUUUURRRRP I TURNED MYSELF INTO KEYCAP MORTY
BUUUUUURPPPP WUBALUBADAB DAB

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>I need special switches
>proceeds to list cherry switches
kek, idiot

Where did you get them?

Cooler Master is the next step down from Ducky in both quality and price.

>Would you Autists buy custom caps like that with Gondolas or similiar inside?
jesus christ I desperately want a tiny gondola laying in some naturescape, encased in resin

do this, start a GB

I'd be broke if I got into artisan keys

youtube.com/watch?v=0e1GUmAtDjc

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Fuck they look tempting as fuck but that is almost a price of full AAA game for a single keycap
I can afford it but i don't know if i can justify it since i don't swim in cash

ali

I love that this bullshit actually exists.

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they look good on photos but keycaps are small on the keyboard they will look like gray blobs in a glass bubble unless you move your face real close

Here's the only artisan on my clean board. It's got tritium
Have another but I've posted it around social media enough that I'd be doxxing myself here, not that anyone would know or care who I was

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is that flux capacitor? does it actually work?

it's not a clack, it's a ripoff, but it looks great, glows in the dark no matter how long you leave it there so it is actually tritium, and fuck clackniggers and their raffle bullshit his limited run faggotry was actually what convinced me to buy it

shit mang, all these cool keycaps
i wish i wasn't too lazy to replace a nozzle on my 3d printer for 0.1mm so i could print high detailed caps for myself

do it mang
start printing and painting your own in your free time, r*dditors will eat that shit up. sand blast it after printing to get rid of jaggies

Definitely not smartly invested money, but they sure look neat.

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if it's limited edition and hand crafted, meaning small numbers, how do you know they won't be worth millions in ten years?

>how do you know they won't be worth millions in ten years?

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artisan caps actually do hold their value really well, they just don't seem to appreciate
it's rare not to be able to flip one for what you paid for it, including shipping, plus shipping costs to a new owner

Artisan keycaps look like shit on any keyboard and only an absolute autist with no sense of style would use them.

>t. virgin

Normally shaped resin ones are fine imo

compare this

Attached: Jelly-Key-spacebar-enter-shift-artisan-keycaps-Zen-Pond-04.jpg (2048x1365, 185K)

to this

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I got one of the resin frog caps and I have a keycappie

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How well does the resin last? Does using them frequently cause wear?

I rarely use it. it's on one of the extra keys on my va22m. I got the SA profile one but don't use SA sets on my main keyboards

GERGO GUY
I am on the latest master of qmk_firmware and it says "germ:dfu" doesn't exist as a make target. I compiled it with "make gergo:default:dfu" instead, which worked.

Except flashing. Flashing didn't work. lsusb says I have "Atmel Corp. atmega32u4 DFU bootloader" plugged in, but dfu-programmer stubbornly asserts that "no device present". What do? Does that mean I fucked something up on the board?
I don't have a TRRS cable handy btw so I'm trying to connect to just the right half, but I assume that shouldn't be causing problems since the controller is there and the left is only a slave.

Space invader switches are a good choice for that, they are unusual enough to be a notable meme and yet apparently feel pretty good.
Beamspring is rare and getting rarer but it's such a well known meme that it's less "unusual" and more "luxury".
Some early Alps switches can be hard to find.
Like another user said, old hall effect switches are pretty much beamspring-tier, except they haven't been memed to fuck and back by Jow Forumskechanicalkeyboard tier fags so they're still unusual.
Cherry mousetrap switches if you want really, really, really old stuff.

Beyond that most things are not very likely to feel great. You might find some hidden gems, though.

Good call, I forgot to update the docs on that one, germ is in my personal branch. Make sure you copy the folder over and if you think you have a good keymap, submit a PR!

If you can see the Atmel DFU loader, that means everything is good (up until the matrix anyway), you need to press the reset button when flashing that'll whack it into flashing mode.

Plug in, make gergo:user:dfu, wait for it to look for it, press reset. (and if that doesn't work check your reset switch)

still waiting on parts from aliexpress because of chinese new year but I've decided to try this out. I just tested it with the switches and keycaps and it feels really nice but it slides around without rubber feet. Is there a good way to avoid the $13 pack of 100 inserts for screws? I'm thinking of just filling the screw holes with hot glue and using that as makeshift rubber feet

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>groupbuy ended
fuck, I didn't know about this

Aliexpress has heat set inserts for dirt cheap. Also you should remove a bit of material on the outer 1.5u plate so the 1u cap below it doesn't hit it.

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Could be my reset switch, yeah, it was the last thing I added at 2am yesterday. At first glance all the joints look alright, is there something I can manually short to get it to trigger right now without having to debug my shitty soldering?

Also, speaking of docs, just wanted to let you know all the pictures at gboards.ca/gergo-setup are dead. (Unless it's just me.)

My "Gigabyte Aivia Osmium" LITERALLY caught on fire a month ago so I've been looking for a replacement.

Is the "Corsair K70 MK.2" any good?

Red switches of course.

>Corsair
>o
>r
>s
>a
>i
>r

Did I literally meme something or?
>t. new on Jow Forums

Now that I see those I really, really want one, it aint fair

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Hm. Seems like they're having CDN issues, I'll give it a few hours to get fixed otherwise I'll replace them. It's mostly icons, the important stuff is on gihub.

Just short across the two top ones, that should do it!

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Logitech, Razer and Corsair are memed because
>gaymer gear
>overpriced
>often not compatible/costum keycaps

Yeah my ex gave me an old shitty Razer which I currently am using and it's fucking ass, keys get stuck all the time even after deep cleaning it.

Then, what do you guys recommend for a gaming Mech. Keyboard w/ red keys?

It's one of the most overrated mainstream boards you can buy. Programmability and backlighting requires you to have the software running in the background at all times, keycaps are cheap trash with a hideous font, and to top it off they gave it a non-standard bottom row which makes it annoying to find compatible replacement keycap sets.
Buy Cooler Master or Ducky if you want rainbow lighting.

I want to buy a first mech keyboard. Is there any without any software capability at all? I just want a TKL keyboard with on board switches to change fn key if possible. The Leopold FC750R looks like it could fit the bill.

Also any opinion on browns vs reds? I have to type all day as a programmer and might use it to play Dota or something as well. Would appreciate any advice.

Apprecate the feedback.

Looked at CM and fug me the MK750 looks sexy, might chug it onto my list if it's acceptable by your standards.

You're pretty much looking at anything with QMK, everything runs on board. The reason you don't see it in mainstream boards is you can't trust joe random to be flashing firmware, that's hard.

There's graphical configurators and QMK toolbox if you need your hand held, otherwise just use make like the rest of us :D

I'm not a fan of the floating key design myself, but that's down to personal preference. Keycaps are still pretty crap (lasered ABS) but at least the layout is standard so it's real easy to find a nice set of replacement caps for cheap.

could you link to them? I'm only finding heated cushion inserts.
Thanks for the tip on removing material, I hadn't noticed it was hitting the plate

Just looked around for it and it's apparently impossible to find the MK750 w/ red keys (nordic), they only have the Brown/Blue ones.
Says that the red keys variant is out of stock/no longer in production..
Hmmm.

Appreciate the feedback on the keycaps.

aliexpress.com/item/giant_rainbow_dash_horse_dildo/32961915881.html

Not sure if this is exactly what you're looking for, but here.

Fuck off retard

Check out Ducky if you want Nordic layouts.

Found it via their site, appreciate it though.

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA IM MR MEEEEEEESEEEEEEEEECKS LOOOIOK AT MEEEEE

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>I'll give it a few hours to get fixed otherwise I'll replace them.
They've been dead for at least 24 hours by now btw

>Just short across the two top ones, that should do it!
No cigar. I ended up sodomizing my switch enough to get it off the board completely, which by the way was difficult enough that I'm pretty sure it really was soldered properly, and no amount of shorting is helping. Only thing I haven't done yet is literally bridge the pads with solder.
Seems like it's absolutely refusing to enter flash mode. Any ideas? The fact that it identifies itself as an atmel USB device makes me thing the controller has to be working somehow, but clearly it can't be reset. Having zero clue about PCB design, I'm at a loss.

yeah I have 3 of those, they're super comfy

Thanks for the tip. I had a look at QMK. Building/using it wouldn't be a problem, but wouldn't I only need that for unusual customisation and RGB/light patterns? I'm not fussed about that. I just want a comfy AF board with as few features as possible.

I misunderstood, if lsusb is showing Atmel DFU, that's good. That's your MCU waiting for a firmware. Try flashing it as root or adding yourself to the wheel group. Also make sure that button clicks before you whack it back on there, they're a little sensitive to heat.

But you're looking at a OS issue here. If you have a windows box see if QMK toolbox works!

More or less, the entire config, layout. macros, patterns are onboard. No communication with the host. Check out my boards at gboards.ca if you want to get that primo Jow Forums meme board in ya

look about right. at that price, I'll just buy it and hope it works

4mm length m3 inserts should work fine. Suppose I'll let you know in however many weeks it takes to ship from chinkland.

>Try flashing it as root
I AM
RETARDED
I now have a half-melted reset button (still clicks, though) and half-ripped up pads for it (solder still flows over them, though, and none of them are totally missing - at least a corner remains on each), just because I forgot to type "sudo"

In related very good news, the trackball assembly works flawlessly first try. Getting the pins and headers to line up and be easily repeatedly unpluggable was insanely satisfying, and now knowing that it actually works is absolutely fantastic.
The default firmware has it set to scrolling only, right?

By the way, possibly a dumb question, but where exactly do I get hid_listen if I want to watch the qmk debug output? Am I expected to download from pjrc.com, or am I missing something else?

Good to hear you got it working! Also, learning!

More or less, if you hold down a layer shift it will jank the cursor around. It's a multiple of the layer so play around (there's a reason it's set up for scroll).

hid_listen should be in the AUR, not sure about other distros. It's a pretty small util (but will only work for the first device you have connected that's trying to use it). If you want matrix/baller info, enable those in your rules.mk!

Also if you dicked the pad follow the trace from it and expose the trace with a razor. After you have it soldered and working, add some epoxy :D

>hid_listen should be in the AUR, not sure about other distros.
Yeah it's not in mine, I'll check the AUR for the exact upstream then.
>More or less, if you hold down a layer shift it will jank the cursor around. It's a multiple of the layer so play around (there's a reason it's set up for scroll).
Where's that defined? I didn't notice anything related to the trackball in the keymap file. (I don't have switches in yet so I wanna know what to short, but also I'd like to know where to edit if I want to modify the default for myself.)
What do you mean multiple of the layer, though?

Also seems to be fine so far. Worst case it's not like I'm gonna flash frequently, I could always just grab a length of solder wire pretend I'm a reset switch.
From your layout screenshot I infer that I can bridge any of the two left pads to any of the two right pads, right? Only the top two pads are fucked at all right now so everything should be entirely fine anyway.

Should I get an ergodox

No, get a gergo

no

Nah they suck, get a Gergo :D

Exactly, just bridge those when you need to flash. As far as the layers, just play with it, every modifier will have a different acceleration speed, it's handled in matrix.c

Oh, alright, so the higher the layer index the faster the cursor moves? Interesting design choice. Is the base layer handling it as scroll hardcoded?
>matrix.c
Oh nice, I didn't look there yet. Gonna check it out tomorrow to figure this stuff out.

Honestly did it that way because I can't write mouse drivers for shit. At the bottom is a ISR that increments some counters in there. It still needs acceleration and fixing up, but I suck at mouse drivers. If you take a look at it it's pretty simple how it do.

One more thing, if you probe around the footprint, you could bridge the two switch contacts into the MX mounts down there to integrate the button proper with keymap.c , as of right now the function of the click is in matrix.c with the other mouse processing code.

Embbeded dev is fun!

unless your hands are massive, get an iris or a gergo for that kind of layout

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This and the Gergo do look better for smaller hands now that I think about it, and I have to wear women's gloves to fit mine. The 1u spaces seem a bit annoying for the iris, but then again you can mount alps switches so I'll go with thems. Thanks duder

Wait I'm a retard, that's a 2u thumb key that can be reprogrammed as 2 1u keys. Shoulda read into it more

Current state of the drying rack. Shoutout to ontarioanon who's been waiting forever

You can mount Alps on a Gergo :P That and it's lower then the Iris :D

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imo I don't know why anyone would opt for the 2u thumb key there unless it's for aesthetics. It requires a stabilizer and just removes a key you can use. maybe people are worried they'll accidentally press the further key?

On the Iris it's close enough that you can get away with whacking it with your inner index fingers. On Gergo due to the extra width that becomes impractical. That and accidental whackage if you have some big thumbs.

I've used both and like the wider/longer keys (also why there's full size mods)

If anyone is interested in these, 2 hours left on massdrop

massdrop.com/buy/dwarf-factory-pam-artisan-keycap

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Get those tanks in ya

>tfw you need to bump late night MKG before it gets archived.

Where the euro niggas at

getting ready for work

I am pretty proud of myself of resisting this since i really wanted one a lot but at the same time i know it is a pointless gimmick for people who have lots money to burn