In it, it mentions the guy built it. I know I can google around to find a how to or kit but I'd like to have the knowledge to do it myself. Does anyone have any recommendations on how I'd get started down this road?
Also,
Soldering irons, wtf. I keep finding cheap fits like in the picture for 27 dollars. They can't great if you're getting all that for 27 dollars can that?
also learn how to identify components you'll be shocked how easy it is (there's not that many different components)
Jace Roberts
yeah but only hardcore boys use them and you can probably and i shit you not, find them in the trash. most electronics that get thrown away are an easy fix for even an amateur
Brandon Flores
>hardware hacking It's just electronics dude
Lucas Martinez
USB ones with good enough accuracy are very cheap
Luis Robinson
That's fair, I keep hearing the term in pentester communities, probly to make it sound cooler.
I've heard of people buying tablets and changing their motherboards to do neat stuff with them. The vtech hacker got the idea to probe vtech from a "Hardware hacker forum" or so I'm told.
I'm actually fascinated by electronics and really wanted to learn more about the hobby, does anyone know any good youtube channels or educational material to learn about all this stuff?
Can someone sell me on this hobby, I really want to get into it but I just can't find a reason to. Like what would I even do?
Colton Mitchell
>use yur imagination 3d led cube is a good project because at least you'll get a shitload of soldering practice with it, which is forever useful even if you give up on the hobby.
It is not quite, unless you can sneakily steal parts from uni or work, or live near recycler. Sure, it is way cheaper than keeping birds, or tuning cars.
Anyway, OP, that kit seems sufficient for beginner. You better use leaded solder. 60/40 or 63/37 would be ideal. 50/50 plumbing solder also works fine. Don't use lead-free junk. Use electronics flux, don't use plumbing one, since it is too conductive to my taste, and acidic, which is not cool, if you don't wash it away. Soldering iron in your kit is not temperature controlled, but rather power controller. For beginner it is OK, but later on you will buy better tools.
Adrian Garcia
mjlorton, bigclivedotcom, EEVBLOG, Louis rossman, Ben Heck etc.... Tons of them really
Owen Flores
I'm colorblind. Is electronics forever out of my reach as a hobby in any serious capacity?
Eli Jenkins
Just don't do shit that can kill you like mains connected shit.
Logan Bailey
My boss is a color blind electrical engineer who used to work for NASA. I guess you'll have trouble reading resistor color codes but you could keep things organized and check with a multimeter (I used to do that all the time because it was easier than the mental arithmatic). Everything is surface mount with numbers printed on them now anyway.
Electronics is a great hobby. Get a $8 multimeter from Harbor Freight and shell out like $50 on a decent corded soldering iron plus tips and good flux and good solder and brillo wool.
Eventually you'll figure out shit -- you'll start getting stuff like 3.5mm jacks and wire and resistor packs and potentiometers and switches... from online...... from broken shit you have laying around........ from the thrift shop...
If you add up all the money you spend on it, it might seem like a shitload, but it's important to remember every time a space heater or a set of speakers or a power supply brick or whatever didn't work -- and you used a thirty-cent part to do a repair in 5 minutes that saved you having to buy a $70 replacement for something!
Connor Brown
>eevblog The shit that guy finds in the trash I swear to god
Blake Miller
>3.5mm jacks I've tried soldering one of these before but the solder never wants to bond to the damn pegs just the wire & iron
Joshua Davis
there's a few reasons this can happen -- soldering's more of an art than a science, et cetera -- but
the most likely is that the part itself just doesn't wanna go. over a while you get burned a few times on buying chinesium parts and you learn what to look for to see if something sucks or not
like i'll always buy the smallest package of components they sell, way in advance of when i expect to actually need them -- if they're good i can buy the next biggest package, and if they suck i can just keep them as emergency spares
Hudson Campbell
electroboom some good safety tips and basic electronics knowledge in the guise of a silly youtube comedy show
Julian Russell
With larger components you might need a higher wattage iron to get them hot enough. It also helps to hold the soldering iron so as much surface area is in contact as possible (blunter tips make this easier)
Gavin Fisher
i wonder if anyone has made a 3D version of snake with one of those
Dominic Wood
How would you control it?
Ian Morris
It builds up. You soon find out your chinkshit soldering station is fucking garbage and start looking for something decent. Same thing with the multimeter. Then you find out you need a dedicated component tester, oscilloscope, crimping pliers for small terminals, and a complete range of passives because cannibalizing them from old electronics gets annoying when you suddenly need something very specific and don't feel like rifling through piles of boards to find it. Prototype boards get messy so you start etching your own PCBs. But eventually they get too complex for a sharpie, so you get a laser printer for toner transfer, but it's still not what you want, so eventually you move on to UV photoresist. Obviously by then you need a drill press and a small scrollsaw or a cutter. Then you look at your soldering station and figure you might as well get a complete rework station now that you're this deep the rabbit hole, and when you're at it, the low end oscilloscope isn't really doing the trick anymore, either...
There's literally no excuse to not use one and once you do you never go back, even if you're a pleb
Liam Russell
I've got the DSO138 for next to nothing from the chinks. Has a sampling rate of 100MHz or so and Voltage range of 50V. More than enough do debug audio equipment and check on your average PWM signal. Hasn't let me down since.
It's probably fine for arduino type stuff. And it costs less than 15$.
Owen Lee
>100kHz
What I meant. Still fine for audio stuff, costs nothing and gives a bit of soldering experience.
Nicholas Scott
Sorted by importance: - Get good LEADED solder with highly active flux. Multicore with Crystal 511 is great. - Get a soldering iron or station that can reliably heat shit up fast, with appropriate tip. A low wattage chinkshit iron with a corroded pencil tip will struggle to even tin cables, let alone solder anything. It will melt the insulation on the jack before it will allow you to solder anything. - If the surface still doesn't want to wet, use a small file to scratch the surface and apply extra flux
Plug the jack into something, it will act as a heat sink and the spacers won't melt if you take too long. If you know what you're doing, then to avoid taking too long you can try raising the temperature, it will allow you to finish the job before the insulation can start melting (counter-intuitively, higher temps are less likely to result in component damage, the longer you take to heat up the joint, the more heat seeps into the component itself.)
Nolan Reyes
Depends on the context.. Hacking is not only software. Hardware hacking i a thing. But fixing damaged electronics certainly aint "hacking"