/mkg/ - Premium Rubber Domes Edition
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obligatory K120
First for iris
meh
dell l100 is better
I currently use the wireless version of this and is right
Just got pic related.
Why is topre just so good?
Poorfags don't reply.
Thanks, user. They're indeed under accessories as you said, but they never turned up when I typed in springs in the search bar, even less when I searched the whole site.
Anyhow "working" is hopefully good enough for me. I noticed a very slightly "creeky" sound if I may put it like this and exchanged some of the springs with my zealios ones which seemed to fix the problem, so I hope some golden, lubed springs do the same.
How much to make one of these, also how long to put it together?
Does the lack of standard side keys drive you crazy? What are your thumb keys?
I use the k120 at home and the l100 at work, if I'd have to choose I'd go for the k120, but I'm more used to the l100.
you can't get an iris right now, the rev 2 PCBs are all sold and the rev 3 ones aren't out yet
Hmm didn't answer a single one of my questions.....
How about, does the split keyboard make a huge difference for your posture? I have broad shoulders and it shortens my pectorals and strains my trapazoids to type all day with hunched arms typing
i answered your first question and ignored the rest because im not that user and have never owned an iris
wow op, why not post a direct link to the keyboard in jpg?, some of us don't have the time to scroll trough a fucking list of websites.
I have no idea how much it is to make, I got it off mechmarket
It doesn't lack any keys compared to a standard 60%
White thumbs are fn, grey edges are home/end, greys beside fn are win/alt, red left is space, red right is enter.
Who else excited for the HHKB Fall 2019 revamp?
literally looks the same
That's just the old one.
keychatter.com
I don't see a reason to buy HHKB rather than a Topre RealForce board. I love my 104UB-DK.
Eh...
If I want capacitive I'd get a 4704 model F
Does the filename not count anymore?
Realforce is god tier. Everything else is for the peasants
Ok /mkg/ I'm about to make my first handwired, trying to make a macropad to start with something small. I'm waiting for the teensy and diodes from ali, I 3d printed the top plate in the meantime.
Question: how do I avoid ripping out the switches when using a keypuller once the thing is finished? Is there a goto way to 'fix' the switches in place? Hotglue?
These are my three favorite keyboards which I currenlty use, the Model M being my daily drive at work and at home.
I've had two mechanical keyboards fail on me in two years.
One-Up and Lolita Spyder.
Do they make low profile mechanical keyboards yet? I actually find it easier to type on scissor switch style keys, but I do like the extra click of a mechanical keyboard.
Something like the Cherry ML/Kaihl Low Profile Switches might suit you, but beware that those are not as good as other switches, but people do prefer them over scissor switches.
I think the major problem with them is finding a board that is of good quality and doesn't look like a gaming peripheral.
I've used hot glue on one
the one I'm currently using holds the switches in place nicely on its own though
Yeah it can be tricky. The actual low profile keyboards with any quality are so ridiculously expensive (talking the MS/Apple keyboards) and I just wouldn't pay £80 for a chiclet/scissor switch.
Got any recommendations with those switches?
Too much plastic. Feels more like a toy. Not to mention it's way less durable then a model F
Drevo jouyse
>(talking the MS/Apple keyboards)
If you're seeking for quality scissor switches you should look for logitech, they're still a bit expensive but better than those you cited.
About the boards
>HAVIT HV-KB390L
amazon.com
>Tesoro Gram
amzn.com
Ayy, thanks for the suggestion. I'll check out some more Logitech keyboards.
If all else fails, I'm thinking of going for Cherry MX Reds/Browns.I was using blues before and I wasn't keen on how hard it was to get the initial force going on the key.
Corsair still an alright brand, or are they garbage?
>corsair
>browns
They have some listed on Amazon, dunno what to tell you.
Right now I'm looking at:
amazon.co.uk
Browns are shit. Not quite linear, but they might as well be because the tactile bump is so minimal.
Corsair is overmemed. Their new boards require you to run their software in the background at all times, their keycaps are ass, and finding replacement keycap sets is annoying because of their non-standard bottom row.
RT7D60 best boi
I'm open to recommendations, user.
Why are there no 80% membrane keyboards
Depending on your budget and whether you want single color backlight, rainbow puke or no backlight at all, Leopold, Ducky and Cooler Master are some go-to recommendations.
CM is the cheapest of the bunch, the keycaps on their backlit boards are crap but at least they use a standard layout. PBT non-backlit versions don't need new caps.
Ducky is a step up in quality and a step up in price. All their current models come with decent keycaps out of the box. Available in a couple of single-color variants, RGB variant, and some snazzy keycap color scheme versions.
Leopolds are built the best of the three, and use very nice keycaps from the factory. No backlighting whatsoever.
Cost is definitely a factor. I game rarely, but I want an excellent typing experience (hence why I started with blues, given their hype, and now want to look at red/brown).
In terms of backlight, I'd be happy with something basic, I often turn it off entirely. I don't look at my keyboard when I type so glowing is just a peripheral nuisance.
I type fastest on chiclet style keyboards but they aren't always very comfortable.
With price as a factor, I'm doubtful Ducky is viable. Do you really suppose CM would be better than Corsair/Logitech? I really don't want to have to buy another kb in a year because yet another one has crapped out on me, at least Corsair/Logitech have prestige to them. CM seem to do a lot of 'me too' products, OEM stuff so to speak. Razor always have been a meme, so they were never within my sights.
>>Tesoro Gram
God fucking damn the fucking ANSI keyboards. After 7 years using chicklets, I started to hate regular keyboards. Chicklets are so fucking comfy to write and activate so fast, but the only ones available are ANSI
CM seems to actually listen to the community. Their first boards used non-standard bottom rows, people complained, and they changed it on their later models to a standard layout, for example.
They're a solid budget option. They also recently came out with a couple of low-profile board, but those use MX low profile reds, which are apparently pretty crap.
ANSI is more appropriate for the minimalistic look that chicklet keyboards have, but I do agree they're a pain in the ass to type on.
I actually kind of like ANSI layout for typing on - I like a longer enter key more than a tall one.
So I took a look, and the range in the UK... sucks... quite badly...
There are tho
UK selection is shite due to brexit, get an ISO keyboard from Germany or Scandinavia instead.
>it's way less durable then a model F
>then
I don't get what your implying
cloud you elaborate
>Browns are shit. Not quite linear, but they might as well be because the tactile bump is so minimal.
It's hilarious to read something like this because it's almost like you think it's possible to type by only pressing the key to the bump. Meanwhile, you'll probably recommend Cherry Blue switches, which have the same bump, just with an extra click to accompany.
>Budget
100-150$. Pls no overpriced dogshit “made in Japan”
>Location (continent at least)
Scandicuck, I hope I can actually buy some locally so it has proper key layout
>Preferred switch type
I am buying one right now primarily for writing and programming. So I guess some of those with clicky haptic feedback
>Layout
ISO
>Form factor
Atleast 80%
>Backlight
A plus, yes
>Previous/current keyboards
Some old wireless logitech membrane shit. Wouldn’t have bothered upgrading hadn’t the keys had “sticky” resistance
>tfw need printed caps
Ok, so apparently the Strafe lacks some significant features that appear in the MK2, but the MK2 is also a lot more expensive, so I think I'll go with the Logitech.
I preordered a Ducky One PBT (MX Red) all the way back in December, from Mechanicalkeyboards. It's been delayed for three months and I don't expect to get it this month either.
On Twitter they are complaining about their "impatient" customers. Isn't there anywhere else to buy this shit in the West?
What does that mean? cloud you please explain
Ducky one from Sweden, or Iceland if you live up there.
Microcenter and Best Buy
> waiting for the gergo
Except blues are shit too. The only worthwhile MX switches are linears and clears, for clicky switches there's Box clickbars.
>It's hilarious to read something like this because it's almost like you think it's possible to type by only pressing the key to the bump.
browns have such low tactility that, when typing at speed, the tactile bump is lost. They just feel slightly scratchy. That's what people mean when they call them "dirty linears".
I know that you're still not going to understand this because you've never used any actually tactile switches, but hey. Being ignorant is a choice.
Thinking about getting some quiet switches like Healios
What does Jow Forums think of 'em?
You'll be fine, just giv'r a few days of not being able to type passwords. It'll make sense pretty quick.
Also that layout is optimized for programan/shell usan. Give her a bit!
Also to the user that wanted a case, I open sourced the design and another user was working on a sandwich. Submit a PR!
I dunno, all the zeal- teal- -ios whatever switches seem like memes to me. Box switches are better, pretty much the best if we're talking about MX formfactor.
That looks more 3D printed than laser cut?
I kinda agree, it's like a Gateron but they supposedly "custom tune" it to make it better.
And funnily enough I do have a board with silenced Zealios sitting in my drawer (which are tactile but I want linear) and I'm currently using Box Blacks which are also great but I wanted to try something new right now.
Yeah there's two cases in there right now.
Neither have been tested. If you come up with something whack a PR in and I'll merge it
> (his keyboard doesn't have a physical volume wheel)
I don't know shit about CNC or 3D modelling, so
Very nice, I'll have to take a look a bit later. I'm a bit swamped right now so probably won't have time to tinker any time soon, but eventually
Fuckin me rn
the force to take keycaps out is much lower than the one used to pull out the switch so it wont happen, in case it happens it just means that the plate is shit.
when are you gonna make a gergo that supports rgb backlighting and underglow
I mean there's nothing stopping someone from using I2C LED controllers and strips. That's the whole point of gJumpers.
Probably never, I'd die if I saw that Reddit shit on Gergo, check out crkbd for that rice :P
I feel like Healios (and Tealios, for that matter) are a gigantic meme when MX silent red/black exist.
Hell, even basic bitch Gaterons don't feel massively different when lubed, and you can get functionally identical housings with SMD LED support from Aliaz switches. The housings do make a slight difference in wobble, but with the new tooling and some lube silenced MX are just as good.
That being said, I do have a bunch of QFN I2C drivers, passives and LEDs with the boards/stencils if you want to have a go. Sculptfag if you want to make some LED artisans send me a email and I can get those off to you for cheap
well I guess I know what I'm doing when my kit comes in the mail, then.
>this kills the GergoMan
Topremasterrace
topretards
topre is nice, my hhkb has been great so far.
Nice try satan I ain't gonna buy your conductive shit.
What keyboard is this? Someone posted it in but never answered
Stick with my box blacks or get retooled blacks and lubes then with 205g0?
Keycaps and legends say Razor Blackwidow Chroma but the case says otherwise. That little u above the arrows says external controller bodged in.
I'm not really sure what to make of it
I've also been waiting for months. I don't get how anons even buy keyboards desu
You could make PCB for it.
Eventually, you can get one key PCB and wire them together. I remember seeing someone here buying them for dactyl board.
Lubed MX with Gat yellow springs
Gergo meme man are the adjustable staggered columns we talked about some threads ago coming in the next version?
>he doesn't own a V80
Whats wrong with you
I can buy two membrane keyboards tho for the price of that 1 mechanical one
Are switch testers stupid or useful?
Want to try out something other than cherry mx.
Mx as in retooled blacks?
If you don't already know what switches you want to make a board with, then why not. There's so much variety in switches these days it's nuts.
STOP BUYING BROWNS. They are that color for REASON. THEY ARE SHIT
Isn't that the standard chink gamer keycap font? Could be any chink board if so
>browns have such low tactility that, when typing at speed, the tactile bump is lost. They just feel slightly scratchy. That's what people mean when they call them "dirty linears".
>I know that you're still not going to understand this because you've never used any actually tactile switches, but hey. Being ignorant is a choice.
Before you rail on me for being "ignorant" and how I "just won't understand," you need to understand that gaming on your keyboard is not "typing." The tactile bump in your keyboard's switches should not factor into your typing technique. Sure, you can try to type without bottoming the keys out but all you're going to do is greatly reduce your typing speed with this pointless autism. And once you increase your speed to moderate rates above 80 wpm, keys are going to start bottoming out again.
Cherry browns are nice for typists BECAUSE the tactile bump is so light. It's there as confirmation that the key actuated only. If you're typing and you touch the key without feeling the change in pressure, then your muscle memory knows to go back and retype without your eyes having to read what you're typing.
I have a Filco Majestouch TKL with Cherry browns which has lasted about 8 years now, including three years of graduate school and probably well over a million cumulative keystrokes. The only thing I did was added some small o-rings to dampen the noise.
I also have a Unicomp keyboard with buckling spring switches. To be honest, it is absolutely terrible to type on. Especially if you plan to float your fingers on the keys, not bottoming them out because you are autistic, a heavy tactile bump is NOT your friend. Every time you overcome a heavy tactile bump, you are increasing the force your finger experiences. Once the switch breaks, that pressure has to go somewhere. In reality, it's going straight down into the keyboard body.
This is the biggest brown shit switch buyer remorse justification I have ever read.
Ducky One Cherry MX Red keyboard w/ some artisans basic bitch here.
I want to delve in to the rabbit hole a bit more.
How have you built a keyboard component by component to make a keyboard that satisfies you more than a prebuilt keyboard?
>encounters facts that he doesn't understand
>instead of trying to understand, starts to cycle through buzzwords until one of them sticks
Keep going. I can't wait to see what you'll post next.
>you need to understand that gaming on your keyboard is not "typing."
Why would I have mentioned typing at full speed if I was talking about gaming? Try rubbing both of your brain cells together before replying to a post.