/mkg/ - Mechanical Keyboard General

/mkg/ - Fuller Size Edition

>Buyer's template:
pastebin.com/33S1gVkG
>Where to Buy:
pastebin.com/8Yku80VL
>FAQs:
pastebin.com/M5w7QtKp
>Use the buyer's template
pastebin.com/33S1gVkG
>Group Buys
deskthority.net/viewforum.php?f=50
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>Keyboard wiki
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>Keyset wiki
keypuller.com (web.archive.org/web/20161101152119/http://keypuller.com/)
Last Thread

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ebay.com/itm/163564200384
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Where can one get a keyboard like that?

Hell.

But bugman don't go to hell

topre.

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That's not Akari
What did you do to her?

Is there an /mkg/ approved keypuller?

> Keyboard behind you

Just whatever wirepuller is fine.

There are two types I've found on eBay.

A simple wire keypuller.
A wire keypuller with a 'pincer' on the other end.

Should the 'pincer' option be considered?

>pincers
You mean something like this? It's just a plastic keypuller. Get the plain wire keypuller to be honest.

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ebay.com/itm/163564200384

It looks like the 'pincers' are used to pull out the switch. Weird.

Oh, yes those are for removing switches from hotswap boards.

Stop me from buying an hhkb bros I know I don’t need it but I just want one so bad but I have a perfectly working custom Pok3r with fairly new keycaps and switches but the hhkb is so comfy and beautiful please help me

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>overpriced rubber dome with a plastic switchplate

Pok3r is shit, get a HHKB

Why don't you own a v80 with ALPS switches

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That’s what makes it comfy

someone is selling an OG Blackwidow for like 17 USD, keyboard looks decent and rarely used too, should I get it? I assume It's a blue switch right? I hate the Outemu blue, will they feel just the same?

What's the color code of a super heavy tactile switch? Maybe not clicky but tactile. Should be plate mount 3-pin that has the + switch form.

Are there any real differences between OG Cherry Doubleshots from the '80s vs. the newly manufactured GMK sets?

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depends on the 'manufacturer'
cherry doesn't make any, the closest would be the green one, which is clicky tactile 80cN actuation force
zealios are tactile, come with different springs, very pricey but considered to be the 'best' by many
then you have plenty of other stuff like the box burnt orange, box royal, hako clears, hako trues, the halo switches, holy pandas

a lot of gimmicks to choose from

I was thinking about maybe changing every special key (ctrl, shift, alt, delete etc.) to a clicky tactile switch and letters into tactile-only because it's not as loud. I just want every key to feel firm and hard to press instead of loose limp nothingness that even rubber domes beat. I can't even picture in my mind a keyboard key that would feel too difficult to press due to force, so I figured I'll just go for the largest numbers.

the heaviest springs I know of are 150g, you can get them pretty cheap on aliexpress (like 10 bucks)
if you buy those and put them in the switches with the fattest tactile bump, that would probably get you there
also I forgot about the cherry mx tactile greys, they're probably one of the heaviest tactile switches around with a 110g bottom out

i wish they made a 96% with matias quiet click that would be an instant buy

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its the same mold. so in theory no

I don't mean the size and fit.
I'm mostly curious about the texture/feel. Maybe different quality ABS plastics are used?

she disappeared

I guess it doesn't have to go as far as 150g, the ones I have now are 45g unless I'm mistaken. I think I'll rather get some premade switches instead of opening them up and changing the spring inside, unless it's easy. I was thinking that maybe anything that's almost double the force (like 80g) would be enough, I should feel the difference then. That would make it easier to find.

Also can I go for ones that are box switches if I'm going to use O-ring, or will the key get stuck then?

I have actually no idea if o-rings will work, my guess is that it might depend on the o-rings, some are thicker than others
though if you're getting heavy switches it might not even be necessary, as the idea is that the springs are heavy to the point where they kinda dampen the bottom out

Well some are pbt so that is quite sought after. The ones with the g8x-SXXX cherry keyboards are sought after for that reason alone. Otherwise not really. Having both, it feels like GMK cheaped out and shines more faster while the Doubleshot ABS one I got from a g81 didn't start shining until 2 years later.

>OG blackwidow
That is saying like my Walmart shoes are og.

They are overhyped. Stock topres are not that great. Although BKE modded ones are fucking amazing. They blow zeals out of the water.

If I buy a chinkshit KB and rip out a lot of its switches so I can make a button board for sim stuff out of what remains will this break the KB?

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Sure if that chinkshit kb allows whatever buttons you put in them and that chinkshit kb is customizable to modify input buttons.

...that depends if you break it

Considering that you ask such a stupid question in the first place makes it quite obvious that you shouldn't do it.

that sounds retarded. I'd just buy a bare bones PCB in the fist place and put whatever switches and keycaps I want

do you have a concept of what you want?
might be better off handwiring
if you want something specific and not necessarily mx style switches

explain that super key ?
how do you do tmux C-b-% for splitting screen ?

>Buy a clickety clackety mech keeb for use at home so I can bring my pretty good Lenovo rubber dome to work
>Spend too much time at work so I rarely use my home PC

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iktf. I use a nice mech with some bumpers on it at work to keep the sound down, thankfully I have my own office.

or the switch top, for changing the springs or lubing

Bought my first mechanical keyboard in february. It was a iKBC poker mini, a 60%. I bought it from aliexpress and I'm still waiting for it. I hope it was a good buy. I chose the blue switches.

>meme keyboards gets really popular so tons of them are under normie hands
>macacos eat and mistreat the keyboards so lots of them go bad
>buy them for pennies, repair them, wich in most cases are just dusty or busted switches wich i fix in half an hour
>sell them for 100 bucks

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forgot to add
>if a kb cant be fixed get the switches and keycaps and sell them anyway for 40

HHKB Pro 2's rattling loud spacebar. Dealbreaker?

I just bought a Bloody B930 with LK orange optical switches and holy shit it's amazing. Typing just... flows, it's like the keyboard likes me.
As it's optical, it's water and dust resistant. Nice brushed aluminium plate, every key has individual rgb light, macros, and all that just for $67 (including 23% vat). I can only explain this price by the fact that the brand is very new and they're trying to build it.

Previously I had razer with orange switches, it was nice too but somehow worse, I started typing faster on b930 in the first minute. After 4 years the raze keyboard died from dust (key chattering) which is the main reason why I chose optical switches now.

Clicks are kind of loud though, I looked but apparently no silent tactile optical switch exists yet.

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I was kinda underwhelmed by that keyboard when I tried my friends, but I'm just a filthy casual. I have a TADA68 that I like.

Not sure if this is the right thread to ask this, but are there any styles of keyboard which eliminate the need for downward movement of the middle and third fingers, or at least make that movement easier?

I find it an extremely awkward motion to make, and on a normal staggered keyboard layout I find my my third fingers naturally want to come down in between the z+x/,+. keys and my middle fingers naturally want to come down in between the x+c/m+, keys.

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kinesis advantage 2

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Get a columnar stagger board.

>1 new from £418.99
Uh, know of anything a bit more affordable?

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handwired dactyl manuform
or something like the iris split if you want to keep it simple

Columnar board, strongly consider a split ortholinear board like an ergodox.

I think I'm going to go mad waiting for my gergo kit to get here. Every day that goes by I get more and more frustrated. I'd have paid extra for tracking.

Where exactly are you supposed to buy these columnar keyboards? Neither Amazon or eBay have them, neither do any of the buying links from the OP for my country.

They're niche boards, mostly DIY. It's why they're usually pretty expensive, save for a few exceptions.

Fug. Guess I'm stuck with this awful default layout then.

The exceptions are under $100, mind you.

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PREMIUM ABS

I can not recommend split keyboards enough.
Anything else is inferior.

>matias quiet click
If they fix chattering issue, it will be my switch of choice for every board I ever own.

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This is why we don't fucking by ABS jimmy. WHAT THE FUCK

>by
what's wrong with anti-lock brakes?
don't tell me you're one of those retards.

BACK IN MY DAY WE DIDN'T NEED NONE O' THEM ELECTRONICAL NANNIES, WE JUST DIED LIKE REAL MEN

you could get some ortholinear boards too. not as good as columnar stagger, but do pretty much what you're asking for. try the xd75re from kprepublic (you can get it on aliexpress); it has hotswap sockets. if you can solder, try the xd75am from the same seller or bfo-9000 from keebio.

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>10

ABS has been a thing since before world war two tho. There was even that late 60s Chrysler turdwagon that had them as standard

A V80 sucks. I can't believe you'd waste Alps on a V80.

it's also been for fags since it came out

Film actors tend to be well off so it makes sense they get cars with fancy options.

Link me to split keyboard examples that are $100 plox

user here again
>buy dead k90 for 10 bucks
>arrive home and start working on it, its soft bricked
>flash fw
>it werks

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How can I diagnose a bad keyboard?

If you go cheap on the switches & keycaps, then the iris, gergo & probably some other DIY boards too

Its actually pretty straightforward user, i dont know shit about electronics and its easy to fix most of the stuff.

switches chattering: clean the switch > update firmware > resolder the switch or change it
switch doesn't activate unless pressed hard: same as above
And thats it, if its about a keyboard being bricked just lurk moar on forums, never stop lurking

what are some good split keyboards that don't require assembly?

i have a mistel or whatever, it kindof irritates me

>what are some good split keyboards that don't require assembly?
Ultimate hacking keyboard?

>at computer store
>type on a membrane keeb
>dat tactility

Is there a cheap options for custom keyboards input?
>got a job at hospital
>need to type the prescriptions
>most of the medications are repeated about 95% of the time
I currently using AHK, to modify the input from the numpad and the SHFIT/Alt/Ctrl keys, but was wondering if there are better and possibly cheaper options.

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sup, reddit here.
Oh and if you buy a prebuilt keyboard you're an absolute retard who deserves to be killed.
Hotswap is a thing now. 100% of all linear and tactile MX compatible switches are SHIT with out lube and or spring swaps.
Don't waste your fucking money and end up with a pile of garbage like me.

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lmao dude I was trying out my old ass stack of membrane boards
the tactility is truly unmatched, which kinda makes me want to get topre, I've never tried a topre board for a decent amount of time
desu only autists obsess over switches
it's nice to have a wide range of switches but at the end of the day it doesn't really make a huge difference when it comes to typing
I'd rather have a wide range of keyboards with different layouts (and I don't mean all 60-75% staggered shit)
get some splits get some orthos, get some staggered shits

imo the most important thing about a keyboard is that it has a nice solid metal case, the feel of HEAVY METAL can't be beat

If you do get topres make sure you also get BKE domes

What caps?

It has nothing to do with a wide range of switches and everything to do with lube.
All you really need to care about are MX black, ergoclesrs, click bar.
It is an inexcusable mistake to buy a prebuilt without planning to immediately desolder it, you'd be better off with a $27 "diy blue switch" amazon special.
There are 4 or 5 hotswap 60% PCBs, gmmk full size tkl 60, outemu hotswap, etc etc.
Using MX linears or tactiles without lube is inexcusable even if its your first board. All click jacket switches are also shit hence box kailh.

BKE light was way worse than leopold topre domes. Sold mine. In addition I've spoken to legitimately 12 different people who have bought BKE and topre. All of them ended up going back to the stock domes. BKE sucks stop listening to that chryorosan faggot.

>get a friend or uni or local hackerspace to pring you a dactyl manuform for $50-ish
>gateron or box switches for $30-ish
>chink PBT caps for $20-ish
>diodes and wires from chinks for pennies
Give or take about $20, if you can get a good price on the 3D printing this will get you a dactyl manuform for around $100. If you don't have soldering equipment budget about $30 for a very decent set, which will also serve you in the future.

Or get a gergo or iris like the other user said

GMK carbon

Are Topres any good? I heard the old Realforce keyboards are discontinued. I want a Topre but on the fence about whether to buy a discontinued model or the new R2 model sold by Fujitsu.

Here's my considerations for both:

Old model:
-Hi-Pro model, this is the one I would be getting
-I like the shaped keys, and uniform 55g weights (not sure if I would like the graded weight version)
-6KRO
-PBT keys with dye sub label

New model:
-NKRO with USB
-New sleeker case
-Still PBT keys with dye sub label
-No Hi-Pro version yet
-Choice between 55g and graded

Do you guys think graded weight keys would be good, or uniform 55g?

To each his own. I love my heavies

I got my Iris prebuilt off mechmarket, check there.

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I prefer the older model just cause it is currently cheaper than the R2 unit because of the "new" hype and the

Older model just looks better. It is obvious that Realfoce cheaped out on the material for the R2. There is a reason why all promotional pics for the R2 don't show the bottom side. Look at the pic, it is fucking ugly.

6KRO is plenty, never had an issue with it.

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What is wrong with the v80? I gutted mine and put blue alps on it and a metal tex case. Works like a charm. I think it is one of the few alps boards that have a seperate light indicator for caps and shit.

Does it support NKRO?
My Levinson does not.
The only feature I miss from the Planck.

Curves >>>>>> Sharp edges

They ruined the aesthetics of the R2s. Now it just looks like some standard keyboard. R1 had a very distinctive look.

nothing really, user is talking out of his ass. Just remember to switch and lube the stabilizer and you are golden.

Yeah, in theory, but I only get 6 key thanks to the limitations of USB

Can you run "two pressed shifts" test, please?

bought one on craiglist for 60 . and am still using it . try find a used one. more cheaper.