/mkg/ - Minarchist Keyboard General

"I wonder who could be behind this keycap" edition

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>Where to Buy:
pastebin.com/8Yku80VL (embed)
>FAQs:
pastebin.com/M5w7QtKp (embed)
>Group Buys
deskthority.net/viewforum.php?f=50
massdrop.com/
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deskthority.net/wiki/Main_Page
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keypuller.com (web.archive.org/web/20161101152119/http://keypuller.com/)

Last thread:

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Other urls found in this thread:

world.taobao.com/item/537653557670.htm?spm=a312a.7700714.0.0.oHMTGQ
wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/products/sampler-kit/wasd-6-key-cherry-mx-switch-tester.html
aliexpress.com/item/thisismuchbetterthanthedogshityoulinked/32898546644.html
aliexpress.com/item/keyCAPS/32889400009.html
twitter.com/SFWRedditGifs

when are my fucking switches getting delivered
at this rate I'll finish my degree before getting my new keyboard

was it worth the extra $10 you saved not buying them from an american vendor?

See the problem is I bought them off an american vendor because that's the only vendor that sells them
I wish I could have bought direct from chinks, would have shipped about as fast and would have had free shipping, that's even if the actual switch price was the same

How risky is building a keyboard starting with a PCB and soldering on the switches? I'm interested in trying it, but it's an expensive project and seems a bit intimidating, so I don't really want to attempt it if there's a high risk of failure
Also, after constructing the keyboard will I need to flash anything on it or will everything just work?

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>risky is building a keyboard starting with a PCB and soldering on the switches?
not really that risky at all, depending on how good you are at soldering. The only thing that could really go wrong is the PCB being faulty and depending on who you buy from they might send you a replacement if that's the case.
>Also, after constructing the keyboard will I need to flash anything on it or will everything just work?
Depends on the kit, but usually yes.

>depending on how good you are at soldering
I've never done it before, but I have watched a couple of videos on YouTube of soldering tips.
>usually yes
yes to needing to flash, or yes to not? If I do have to flash, do I need a specific device for that or am I able to do so from a computer?

Thanks!

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Most kits only require very basic through-hole soldering, so even if you've never soldered anything in your life it's not exactly difficult and the chance of fucking up is very low.
Most kits work out of the box, but if you want to reprogram anything you'll likely have to deal with firmware flashing shenanigans. Luckily there are third-party utilities that make this a bit easier.

>I've never done it before
It's not that hard.
>yes to needing to flash, or yes to not?
Yes to not, sorry. Some keyboard kits use the open source firmware known as QMK, which sometimes requires the controller to be flashed, which isn't very hard at all. There's plenty of tutorials floating around for it.

How is unicomp in 2019?
Have they retooled yet?

>How is unicomp in 2019?
Same as they have been
>Have they retooled yet?
Not that I'm aware of

Thank you very much for the information!

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Soldering on components is one thing, but soldering on switches is really hard to fuck up. Desoldering takes a little bit of skill if you decide to change key switches though.

>use cherry brown for a year
>crave linear
>use cherry red for a year
>crave tactile again

I can never settle down with one or the other.

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Hotswap nigga

Try clicky

I was like this until I discovered topres 4 years ago

Mechanical noob, just finishing up building a higher end PC. Looking for something for gaming and typing

>Budget
~$150 CAD
>Location (continent at least)
Canada
>Preferred switch type
No idea
>Layout
Full
>Form factor
Standard
>Backlight
Yes
>Previous/current keyboards
Logitech G11, which is quite old now. Served me fine though.

Pls respond

pick one:
>clicky
>smooth

pick one:
>loud
>quiet

Ironically the switch type is the most important decision here.

Undecided about clicky or smooth, probably smooth. Definitely want quiet though

If you're indecisive about switches get a GMMK and buy a couple different types of switches.

I'd recommend reds

Silent reds/blacks.

Thanks for the spoonfeeding.
GMMK I see only comes with Browns at $160 on Amazon and not super excited by the modular idea

What would you recommenced at around a $150 budget?

but browns aren't tactile

Ducky One 2 in either single color or rainbow puke backlit form.
Or a bare GMMK with a pack of switches of your choice.

is the modular GMMK even good? I can't tell if people Jere actually like it or it's just one shill recommending it to literally everyone.
Looks like a meme board

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It's the cheapest and most readily available hotswap keyboard, so the recommendations are genuine.
The only real problem with it is that you need to run 3rd party software in the background in order to mess with the RGB, but aside from that it's actually decent.

It's a relatively affordable and readily available fullsize or TKL board that supports hot-swapping switches, which means you won't have to buy a whole new board or desolder 200+ pins if you just wanna try some different switches.
If you were looking for a 60% I'd probably recommend a GK61 instead.

There's a compact GMMK that's 60% now as well

Thanks I'll check out the One 2 in store and give it a go.

Where do you guys even get switches for the GMMK? Nothing seems to be on the Canadian Amazon (no surprise)

Yeah, but it's 60 bucks with no switches or caps. The GK61 is 60 bucks with probably the same doubleshot ABS caps, and comes with Gateron switches already installed which are at least 12 bucks on their own.

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Actuallythe GK61 is also just a bare board, I got it confused with the GK64 which does come pre-assembled with Gateron switches for around that price.

NovelKeys
KBDfans
AliExpress
This thread does have a OP

I'd like to design my own cases made out of acrylic like the one shown in the picture. Would it be better to design one and have it 3d printed somewhere or is it easy enough to buy acrylic and cut it myself?

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My first mechanical one. GMMK TKL with brown switches and a mix of shit tier keycaps, but I like it

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It‘s hot swapable and minimalist looking, what‘s not to like? Since the release of their ISO Variants they also are heavier and with pre-lubed stabs.

Also just got one of their mousepads and couldn‘t be happier

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>not buying both
>being this poor

I think you can order acrilic sheets to be cut for you somewhere.

3d printed materials just suck.

Yeah that only send via serial for steno software. You can do it that way, but then every sequence needs to be in your software. Georgi also works as a QWERTY board so I have to get creative.

Gergoman confirmed for big gay. I'm honestly surprised no one has sent programming socks to my address :D I'm still working on the milled case but I just can't find time to get down to the space and give'r shit. Hell even finding time to shitpost is hard. TF is keyboard buisness

XDA is super comfy, it's like DSA but less fucky


Can confirm, switches are hard to fuck up. Just use a decent iron and make sure you have desoldering braid handy.

That is one sexy Berreta, whack off the suppressor and you're looking mint.

There's a case builder floating around, take a google. Look for a local hackerspace, they'll probably have a laser cutter. Worst case you can find a shop locally to do it for your pretty cheap if you provide DXFs and all that.

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>Budget
$60 USD, can go slightly over, would rather go under
>Location (continent at least)
East Asia
>Preferred switch type
Cherry MX Brown, or a cheaper equivalent
>Layout
Prefer ISO, ANSI is okay
>Form factor
Ten-keyless
>Backlight
None.
>Previous/current keyboards
The keyboard on an x220i thinkpad

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Goddammit Jim I'm a doctor not a keyboardfag

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ANSI is so much better looking than ISO. Ignoring the numpad, the only key on an ISO keyboard that takes two rows is enter. I hate it. So I'm wondering, are there any ANSI keyboards or PCBs that support ISO (Nordic)? It could definitely work if you just move the * key on an ISO keyboard to be under backspace/above enter

Can I use krytox 205 from amazon or do I have to buy the krytox 205g0 for lubing switches?

>12g
>15g
>I remember reading that georgi had 10g springs
Are you adding variable weights? Or are the 12g springs for something else

When are those niggers at SP going to make some xda blanks

Those were for testing the 15gs in case the 12s died. So most springs don't take into account the weight of the caps and internal frictions, once you start getting that low you kind of need to. They're 12g springs, but after everything require 10g of force to use.

I fuggin wish, I get all mind of YMDK :(

anyone ever hear any news about dsa drifter getting dropped again? or will I have to give my money to the kikes over at r/mm?

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Why would you want DSA? Do you own a dactyl manuform?

nope. currently running dsa granite on my va108m, unironically enjoy the profile. people have told me i have retarded hands though so that might do it.

usually group buys return every couple years, so maybe next year. I know it took three years for carbon to drop again, while MT3 barely took a year

owo what are those?

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How do outemu switches feel compared to cherry mx? Particularly blue.

once you go topre, you literally can't go back

The snow white tada68 which wasn't all that good since it doesn't use EnjoyPBT keycaps

:'(

so the one from kbdfants is only good?

Taobao sells the same exact keyboard prebuilt with gateron switches for 60 bucks

world.taobao.com/item/537653557670.htm?spm=a312a.7700714.0.0.oHMTGQ
this?

currently dying keycaps
used like 1/4th of the bottle with a full oem set of grey blanks
letting it sit for 30-40mins
hope it's not shit

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You going to try just a couple to start with or all at once?

dumped in the full set because YOLO (I'm not even going to use the full set, only enough to fill my iris keyboard)

let it sit at 75-85c for 30mins
turned off the stove and let it sit for another 10 minutes (ceramic stoves cool down very slowly)
came out darker than I had anticipated, as I figured some of it would wash off
still I'm not entirely disappointed, seem fairly evenly colored

I figure if you want some rows to be darker/lighter than other you can dump those in 10 minutes into the process and so on

it's going to be a hassle figuring out which keycaps belongs on which row ffs

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No one on this board uses this shit?

Outemu usually feel slightly shittier except the blues. They sound bad, as blues generally do, but they objectively feel a lot nicer than the cherry ones

also a before and after
it's hard to give you the right idea of the colour with a photo (the light can change it pretty drastically)
but here u go
dye cost me €7, €16 for the keycaps from ali
was it worth it? maybe

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I got my Ducky Shine 7 yesterday and I noticed that the printing on the keycaps is pretty shit. Especially on the numpad, the transparent parts are very inconsistent. Anyone else with a Shine 7 notice this?

Is it possible to put lighter springs in Box Royals without fucking up the upstroke? I finally bought a tactile switch tester and I feel like lubed royals w/ a lighter spring might be ideal.

A lighter spring would just make them bottom out even harder though.

Friendly reminder that any switch that isn't click bar is unusable in its stock form.

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I use cherry mx blues, they are pretty noisy.

>Clickbars aren't usable stock

reading comprehension

I have a memeboard right now (Logitech G910), from what I can gather it's switches are closely related to mx Browns? I want to try Reds out though. really wish I could try the feel of switches before I buy.

either go to the store or buy a switch tester on aliexpress for a couple of tenners (yeah it's not that cheap, but it's a cool gimmick to have imo)

and let me add to that, neither of those things will really get you a good feel of what the switches are going to be like when you actually type on them
buy from a webshop with good return policy and you should be good though

wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/products/sampler-kit/wasd-6-key-cherry-mx-switch-tester.html
found one. 15$ doesn't seem bad.

aliexpress.com/item/thisismuchbetterthanthedogshityoulinked/32898546644.html
don't go on websites like wasdkeyboards, it's overpriced dogshit

I hope you had a mask

He did say he was "dying," not "dyeing"
Let's look for his obituary in the news tomorrow

I inhaled a fair amount actually, though I live in the city center so I inhale tons of fucking shit every day anyway
also did my xda set, looks better irl than in the picture though, pic makes it kinda look more uneven and lighter than it actually is

you can pretty much take any set with black sub dye print and dye them, the print will remain (obviously)

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>using a mask
Is dye vapour really that much worse than rosin fumes or epoxy dust? You ain't gonna die from some slight fumes unless you're doing something really really wrong

Looks dope

The imperfections in the dying make it look worn. I kinda like it.

it's worse. It will color your lungs

wow, what dye brand / color and what keycaps?

shit im stupid, its in the photo. What maker for the dsa keycaps though?

as a rubber dome user for basically my entire life how much of an improvement is topre?

they're XDA (which is also uniform, like dsa, but feels a little different) from kbdfans.cn
aliexpress.com/item/keyCAPS/32889400009.html
I also used a tiny bit of 'sand stone' and an even tinier bit of 'chocolate brown' to get it a little darker
though I think using just 'chocolate brown' should get you there as well
was probably a waste of money to get both sand stone AND chocolate brown since there's a lot of other cool colours that aren't brown

no improvement, topre is basically the same as an old dell just with a higher price tag

t. never used a topre board

Topre is like a cheap rubber dome keyboard but with everything negative about rubber domes stripped out. It's much smoother, has around the same tactility, significantly less stem wobble and way better sound. It's very overpriced and I'd honestly recommend a cheap clone or alternative like Plum or BTC Domes, but Topre is a very comfy typing experience, I love my realforce.

What's a click bar?
I use Cherry MX blue btw.

I wish there were some goddamned 1u convex keycaps.

A someone who recently bought a topre board I'd have to disagree that its a much better typing experience. The typing doesn't feel significantly better than other rubber dome keyboards. The keyboard is really nice and obviously high quality though. Being PBT plastic entirely and having dye-sub labels means its very durable long term.

>The typing doesn't feel significantly better than other rubber dome keyboards.
I really don't believe you, I own a realforce and use a shitty dell keyboard at work and the difference is night and day.

It's much better than hp/dell but pretty much the same as old rubber dome keyboards like keytronic. Keytronic and whatever rubber domes they used on the HHKB lite 2 are just as tactile.

I know that, that's why I recommended if he wanted to try them out he should buy a cheaper alternative like BTC or Plum.
Usually when people say "rubberdome" they mean like dell or amazon basics, not keytronic or BTC.

>marxist keyboard general
>everyone loses their minds
>minarchist keyboard general
>nobody bats an eye
And they say Jow Forums isn't Jow Forums

>randomly threw the name amazonbasics to mean "generic"
I think you mean Dell and Logitech

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Like it matters, the amazon basics one is also rubberdome it just has wonky as fuck keycaps.
I know plenty of people that use one of those shitters too, so I don't even know why you think no one thinks about those as "generic rubberdome"

I've had some pretty good logitech dome keyboards in the past. That amazonbasics board looks worse.