Friend buys fight stick

Why exactly are you trying to run other kinds of thread off this board?
That looks 100% recoverable. Scrape the green mask back until you can see shiny copper and solder some thin wire to bridge the damage. Show us how it goes?

Attached: Untitled.png (2280x1304, 3.67M)

XGUILD has zero bottom connection. So you will have to use a liberal amount of solder to try to unfuck that.
However, you have to be careful -- the trace, on the top side, between DR14RB and XGUILD looks like it could be scratched way too much. Assuming you try to fix that, you will come really close to crossing that trace with it.
I can't really tell how bad D3, D4, and D5 on the bottom are. You will probably need special tools to fix the traces on the bottom near D3, D4, and D5. You will need to use desoldering braid and a steel needle. Hell, you may even have to use a precision drill.
The traces underneath the "D14RB" text look scratched too much. So have fun fixing that.

For soldering, make sure you use some really good quality solder. If you use that garbage shit you can find anywhere, you will not be precise enough. You will definitely need an adjustable soldering iron, too.

How much is this thing worth?

This user is right, just run a copper cable from the lead onto the trace in the board
And wa la

easily fixable by someone who can actually solder

I will do my best, as far as scraping the green mask back, how would you recommend doing that?

Its not really worth much to me or him. He just doesn't want to alter the case and insert a new button for the UFB. He wants to try and salvage this button. But it's looking like it might not happen because i;m not to skilled in soldering and this.

How the fuck does this even happen?

> Is this even still usable?
In a word, no. There is nothing left to solder the missing header pins back onto. You could solder a wire directly from the pin to the track but it will get all fucked up the next time you unplug the header.

I use an x-acto knife, scratching sideways with the blade as flat as I can get it. What tools and parts do you have?

If it helps at all, the only button that I am soldering to this board is the fucked up one. All other buttons and solder points other than XGUILD are not gonna be used, With that, is there a work around?

just pull all the bent pins and replace them with header strip; the plastic web can hold the pins in place well enough to plug into the female header. solder a jumper from the last good bit of trace to the pin and it's done. could even blob some hotglue on if you wanted to be careful.

That looks like a MadCatz TE PCB. You can buy a replacement home panel PCB made by Gummo. Paradise Arcade is supposed to get some in stock soon.

I'm very limited on tools and such at this time. I have an x-acto though.

I have basics;
Solder iron (Adjustable)
Solder
X-acto
Several solder tips

So I am lacking as far as tools haha. Sadly.

It is indeed a MC-TE. I'll do a quick search for that. Thanks a ton!

Holy shit, just found that PCB. Thank you so very much user.

Want suggestions? I'd grab a cheap desoldering pump and some desoldering braid so you can do this . Obviously you'd need to get some header strip too (it's like a buck on amazon) and some wire. If you have an old stranded cable around somewhere you could cut it up and use single strands, or you could just buy a spool of 30g wire and use bits with the insulation stripped off.

High grit sand paper can also take the paint off in thin layers until you get to the copper without blowing the fuck out fo the copper. Don't use anything coarser than 400 grit sandpaper.

There is a simple and quick solution for this, yes.
It's called the bin.

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