/pcbg/ - PC Building General

>Create a parts list
pcpartpicker.com/
>Learn how to build a PC
youtube.com/watch?v=69WFt6_dF8g

Want help?
>State the budget & CURRENCY
>List your uses e.g. Gaming, Video Editing, VM Work
>For monitors include purpose & graphics pairing
>NO Speccy or "bottleneck checkers"


Secure CPUs based on current prices
>1600/1700 - for non-gaming; worse in gaming due to slower memory latency
>R3 2200G - Light 30-60fps gaming(dGPU optional)
>R5 2600/X - Good 60fps+ gaming & multithreaded work use
>R7 2700/X - Best value high-end CPU on a non-HEDT platform
>Threadripper - HEDT

RAM
>NEVER use only a single stick
>8GB - very light use, and/or if you don't mind closing programs regularly
>16GB - standard amount. If you have to ask if you need more, you don't
>CPUs benefit from fast RAM; 2800MHz+ is ideal. Check "more" for true latency formula

Graphics cards based on current pricing:
>Used cards can be had for a steal; inquire about warranty
1080p
>RX 570/580 - value. May have to lower settings in some cases.
>590 - current generation games on high/maxed 60fps+; better choice if you want the included games
>1660 - current generation games on high/maxed 60fps+; much more power efficient
> 1660Ti / 1070 / Vega56 / 2060 - higher framerates
1440p (WQHD)
>590 - lower, console-equivalent settings
>1070Ti / Vega / 2070 - 60-120fps+ in most games on high/maxed
>RTX 2080 / 2080Ti - higher framerates
>Radeon VII - may be considered; needs cooler mod to run quiet
2160p (4k)
>RTX 2080 / Radeon VII - upscale or lower settings
>RTX 2080 Ti, but poor value.

Storage
>Consider a larger SSD (better GB/$) instead of small SSD & HDD
>M.2 is a form factor, NOT a performance standard

Display
>Consider 75hz minimum; 60hz are old models
>PLAN BUILD AROUND YOUR MONITOR IF GAMING

rentry.co/pcbg-more

Prev

Attached: arctic_alpine_am4.jpg (678x475, 180K)

Other urls found in this thread:

forum.overclock3d.net/showthread.php?t=394
twitter.com/SFWRedditImages

Nvidia cards dominate all price points now
please remove the Radeon cards from your list. They offer SHIT value.

>Being this mad that the RX570 exists and that not everyone pirates

Shill general

?

No Intel cpu

o shit u rite

what the fuck OP

Secure CPUs only.
If you want a CPU with core hardware security flaws built into it, buy it at your own risk.

upgrading my gpu for my 1440p144 G-Sync(tm) (fuck me) monitor
what do you guys feel is the best *value*?

EVGA RTX 2080 XC Gaming for 4419 BRL (1140 USD), or the EVGA RTX 2080 Ti XC Gaming for 6599 BRL (1659 USD)?

i dont really play lots of ebin AAA trash like assassins creed or tomb raider, but i also want to run things comfortably for a while.
i've done retarded amounts of research on these and haven't come to a conclusion so i feel like it's time to ask to be spoonfed.
the almost 50% premium on the 2080ti makes me think that it's probably worth it to save that money to buy the next model next year or something. it's half the price of the 2080, so maybe it'll be half the price of a 2180.
on the other hand, the 2080ti sometimes gets 30-50 frames more than the 2080 in some benchmarks. i dont know.

Attached: file.png (263x383, 118K)

1650 will destroy it

My 1070ti smokes everything at 1440p 144hz
I get 100-150fps all the time
only DmC5 and Metro Exodus don't get great frames
a 2080 will service you just fine. Use it until 7nm xx80ti comes out.

>$1659 USD
lol? That's over double wtf.

I'd wait for 7nm GPUs, anyway. It's such a bad time to buy a $300+ GPU with a big upgrade coming soon enough.

which is the best 2400 Mhz ram (performance wise) for a laptop?

Security doesn't matter

>lol? That's over double wtf.
please don't come to brazil.

Attached: file.png (666x375, 304K)

So is vega 56 a 1440p/60fps card? People say it can't do 144fps at that resolution on new games

>Something that's not yet available is better value

Like the 1070ti (hell, even 1070) it's a strong 1440p/60 card, but if I was chasing 100+ fps I'd be considering and upgrade. Or just tune game settings to suit.

I'm looking to upgrade some existing components. I've been running the same computer for a while now. (i5 3570k, 980Ti, 2 monitors). Part of me feels like doing a complete overhaul (getting a new mobo with DDR4 ram, and a new processor, ect.) but another part of me feels like that's just being a consumer whore who needs to buy the latest just to feel like a normal person in today's society.

/blog

My main qualm is my hard drives are some of the things that need updating the most. I put a SSD (250GB samsung evo) in there 3-4 years ago for my OS (Win7), but other than that, all my HDDs are from my initial build. Two WD Blacks with 500GB and one WD Black 1 TB for games. It's getting to a point where I have less than 100GB left on all drives. I got a 4TB external to back up any extra pictures and stuff, but I'm still having trouble with keeping space to a minimum without feeling like I'm going to delete something that I don't know I'll need later or forgot to back up properly.

TL;DR
I want to get new HDDs with more space, but I don't know what to get anymore. I feel like all the brands are shit now (something something Seagate always a meme, and WDs aren't what they used to be, something something tsunami destroyed all the factories, so everything is shittty now.

What fucking do?

if this is the issue with the GPU you can RMA it
if not RMAble, downclock the memory and you will have it working, just not for really nice 1440p/4k gaming

navi next month, we gonna see some shit with dual GPUs

>please don't come to brazil.
I won't.
Why are you there? It's one of the worst countries in the world. I'd rather live in the middle east than there.

It tends to do in the 75-120 range depending on the game and settings. It'll do 144 in stuff like Dota2, CSGO, etc, though. Similar to the 1070Ti like the other user said.

Your GPU is still good but held back by CPU. Just upgrade your CPU.
I'd totally replace all your drives, yes. Just get a 256Gb NVMe and a 2Tb QLC SSD to pair together with StoreMi. Upgrade your external to 8-10Tb if you need.
I don't know why you're considering HDDs at all when you had the money to buy a 980Ti.

a 3rd gen i7 used should be cheap, a 980ti is still pretty powerful for 1080p gaming. i dont think your system needs anything but some organization, a cleaning or maybe some cooling solution just to make better use of it. im certain 980ti waterblocks are cheaper now

why not just pass everything to the 4tb HDD and organize from then on what you want to keep or not? those storages might indeed be in their failing age

FYI, all the WD drives are at least 5 years old at this point. C: Drive being the SSD, D: and E: being the 500GB WDs and F: being the 1TB WD.
All of them still work, no noises or clicking or anything like that, but I've been getting worried about the E: drive. Everything I go to access it from Computer, or go to save a file to it, the explorer freezes for a moment or two while it's trying to load the drive/show files and folders.
So while it's not making any noises, it feels sluggish and I'm worried that it's a sign it's dying.

I don't know how to check drive health because all the programs for it seem like softsonic/chinese/shady/malware ridden possibly crap.

>I don't know why you're considering HDDs at all when you had the money to buy a 980Ti
I actually scored that card for like $379. I happened to check Amazon randomly and they just put it on a super sale (for black friday or something?) I pretty much had to buy it because even though it was $379, it's way better than $500+, and this was before bitcoin mining retards ruined everything for the next couple of years.

Does a mesh front panel case offer enough cooling over a more closed design that it'll make a difference with part lifespan?
I can't decide between big cooling and big quiet, and my current setup is neither so I have no good reference point.

>Why are you there? It's one of the worst countries in the world. I'd rather live in the middle east than there.
idk i live in not-rio and not-saopaulo so its comfy. just wish i could buy hardware for 1st world prices

I'd like to buy a used 1080ti for my completely new build that I will be making once Zen 2 comes out. I would use it until the next xxti non RTX card comes out, and my planned display is 1440p @ 144 fps.

Are there any precautions I can take buying used? I'd like to avoid buying a card that was used for mining but the seller could easily lie about past usage. Should I just make sure that I get a card that still has the warranty and deal with any problems if they happen?

you should definitively have at least a in and out fan
just ensure they arent choked by glass or plastic, mesh are there only to save your components from dust, but they also impede slightly airflow

Okay. Well 2Tb QLC is only around $220.
Pair it with a 256Gb NVMeme or Optane with StoreMI for more speed and reliability.
Then you have a fast 2Tb for windows, games, and don't have to juggle shit between partitions on slow HDDs.

HDDs are obsolete except for deep storage.

Generally yes, better cooling, but it also offers less insulation for noise.

It's best to buy one that's still under warranty. Afaik only EVGA and MSI have transferrable warranties.

Aorus z390 motherboard. Connected cpu and fan, ram and tried to power it on, just get a quick flash of blue lights then nothing. Manual has no troubleshooting in formation

Ideas?

How much would you secondhand sell a 4670K, MSI Z97-Gaming and 12GB of RAM for?

Will a less insulated case sound like a jet or are fans quieter these days? My stuff feels pretty dated, almost 8 years on the case and fans minus one case fan, and it's pretty loud compared to my friend's newer build.

I don't think that 3570k really holds back 980Ti, but you could probably get 3770K for something like $140-$150. CPU swap is around $100. It should probably be OK for a few more years (especially if overclocked).Temperatures might be pretty bad if the paste had dried out tho, so delid might be a good option if you're planning to OC.
980Ti is still pretty fine. If your temps are good, you can mod the BIOS (especially if it throttles due to power limits) and OC the shit out of it. It's probably still pretty good for 1080@60fps. If it's a reference design, you might need a better cooling for that kind of stuff (If you don't mind getting your hands dirty. I got a used one for $25 with free shipment some time ago. It was totally worth it for a nice 20% performance boost).

What GPU would I be looking for to run 3 screens at 2560x1440, no extensive gaming, but at least run two separate 4k videos on YouTube or from my drive? AMD preferred cause drivers.

Attached: 1537349975009.png (600x400, 336K)

your fans might need more that cleaning
if you really want to keep them read on how to oil them. its possible they are simply worn however

first, are you 100000% positive you got the cpu connector right instead the pcie jammed in there?
disconnect everything but cpu cooler and a ram stick, keep exchanging ram stick of slot and stick until it posts.

Yeah it's right, nothing is lighting up

>>>>gb
oh no
no no no
you fell for the "cheap in between option" when it comes to memory

might be best to sell part by part

why does anybody need that many screens

Uhhh what.

Athlon 200GE iGPU will do that if you have the right connectors on the board for it, afaik. At least I know the 2200G will and I'm pretty sure the iGPU is the same except for the less CUs.

Try a single stick of each stick of RAM, one at a time.

so the cheapest 1080p monitor with 144 Hz , Freesync and 1 ms is?

shit senpai, its possible its factory defect

you could potentially have already fried your mobo if you had jammed the PSU pins incorrectly or maybe even missing

your PSU could also be defective but at this point im not sure why theres no smoke or light. if you connect a fan to the 4-pin and jumpstart the PSU does the fan spin?

he could easily get more cores f he buys a used i7

btw the PSU thing is with nothing else on ofc, we dont wanna risk fireworks

You tell us. You have your criteria to search by right there.

>I don't think that 3570k really holds back 980Ti
Even at 1440p, it will. lol.

A 3570k isn't even enough for a 7970/280X in a lot of games. My 2500k was bottlenecking my 7970. Just background processes tended to use up an entire core. Even with nothing running in the background, 4 threads is going to bottleneck any decent GPU as games have become more CPU intensive the past few years.
3770k isn't even worth buying if it were like $125, and I don't even think you can find them that cheap.
HT has gotten a lot weaker with the security updates, too.

As far as I remember, it's go fucking find it yourself you absolute fucking retard.

Could you recommend me a monitor for the Vega 56?

LG 22MK600M-B

That Mbest brand 1440p 144hz 3-4ms IPS. It's around $300-$350. It's all around the best SDR monitor.
Or that new LG VA. It's around $420.
Or an Acer Nitro IPS if you want anti-blur to fake 1ms. But I prefer naturally fast.

One for coding(vertical), one for office(browser, email, whatnot) and one for info/alert.

So basically anything newer? I had a gtx560ti laying around which didnt cut it, but another 1080ti seemed a tad overkill to me. I assume a rx580 would do just as well then?

Attached: 1537339887142.jpg (5312x2988, 1.5M)

9700k or 2600x for 1080p gaming?

Attached: He's lost in the music.gif (102x136, 5K)

No fans except case ones and it's enthoo primo so I have to connect them all at once.

I placed everything again, cpu, cooler, psu wires, ram and still nothing but now all the lights are red and flash just once, before they were different coloured on each area

That's the other thing. My mobo is an Asrock something, it doesn't even have the options for M.2 PCIe NVMe. I could benefit from getting a new mobo because for whatever reason all the USB 3.0 ports do not work at all. Even with installing drivers; they're not even readable even using them for non-3.0 purposes.

But I think that if I'm going to upgrade, I'd need to get a new mobo, and to do that, I'd need to get a new CPU as well (8700k is defacto standard now right? Like how the 2500k was good for years on end), and I'd need to get all new RAM as well.

But that's all a case for another time. I'm just looking to get big hard drives for storage that are reliable. But I always swore by WD Blacks for the longest time because I've never had one fail on me yet. It's just that in this current landscape where everything is SSD, post-miner, digital distribution-only, where tsunamis destroyed all the hard drive factories, and RAM makers are all in cahoots with each other, I believe the landscape to be shittier now than it was 5 years ago. I don't know what's good anymore.

TL;DR
Seagate still bad? WD (Black or Gold) still good? HGST best? (But they were bought out by WD, so old HGST good, new WD-HGST not so much)???? Don't touch Toshiba?

Non x 2600.

its not a prebuilt?

you have a short somewhere. disconnect the mobo, get a paperclip, connect everything else but the GPU and mobo.

do this
forum.overclock3d.net/showthread.php?t=394
if it works, you got a short somewhere on the mobo, time to RMA it

tl:dr amd shills are strong on this thread and you will be told things
you should go for i7 9th gen or i9 of any gen
i5 of 9th gen is okay but you should only get it if in a sale.
dont get non overclockable ones too.

No its aorus z370 elite, i78700k, noctua dh-15 and psu is seasonic focus plus 850 w
I'll try that link

Okay, but none of that has to do with with HDDs. What's good in this day and age?
I know SSDs are all the rage now, but I like having 2TBs of dolphin porn.
Srsly though, I like keeping files like old installers and mods for games that I can't find on the internet anymore. Like when I get into a yearly modding Skyrim itch where I want to play beautiful Skyrim, but all I end up doing is spending a week downloading and organizing 100GB of mods only to finally get everything to work and play for 20 minutes. I don't want to have to delete those 100GB of mods only to have to do it again next year.

AMD has always had better display support than Nvidia.
Most of their GPUs, even midrange, supported like 6 1080p or 3 1440p since the 7000 series "eyefinity" thing except for some exceptions like the R5 230. Like if you had gotten a 7850 instead of the 560Ti, it'd support your 3 1440p monitors easy assuming it had the correct connectors.
7000 series was extremely popular in the financial industry for that reason.

The 2200G actually supports 4x 4K monitors but no motherboard has 4 connectors to do that. It will have no problem running 3x 1440p. The PROBLEM is that the board would need display connector outputs which supports that output that the iGPU can deliver. DVI does not support 4k@60, for example.

If you're looking for something used, well it's difficult. A used 7000 series or 200 series AMD would do it, but they tend to use around 100 watts with multiple displays plugged in.
Polaris and Pascal will also do it more efficienctly. Athlon 200GE is only $55 and should also do 4x 4K, but again you need a board for it.
Newer AMD GPU (Vega) do 6x 4k@60 or 3x 4k@120 iirc.

Depends on GPU. If you're just playing at around 75-120fps, or just 144 in optimized stuff like CSGO, R6 Siege, and Dota, then 2600X is fine.

Had to use a screwdriver to jump it since all black wires but the cpu error light came on and all the book said is it means it's not working properly

The 590 recommendation in this OP at 1440p is retarded. I know this has been mentioned in the past but that really needs to be removed.
Also
>secure CPUs
Fuck off.

Am I being a complete idiot in thinking that I can get away with a ryzen 5 2400g without a graphics card? I'd be happy with 1080p, 60fps and I don't intend to use it for vr. Trying to be a jew and save a couple hundred but I don't want to end up with a gaming potato.

Recommend me a 2080 model:
>1440p 144hz monitor
>8700k
>want to stay below 800EUR

>>secure CPUs
>fuck off
you mad intel had like 30+ security flaws and amd only like 4 and they werent even as bad as the same 4 on intel?

1080p 60fps in what? you're not getting that with intergrated graphics in any demanding 3D game.

Lmao, why do you still insist on bringing up security?

As has been told to you a half dozen times already, there are no attack vectors for a home user.

Who gives a fuck?

These are bent pins, right?

Attached: 20190404_172054.jpg (4032x3024, 2.3M)

>still
implying samefag. just pointing out your comment was retarded

looks bent left to me

A couple yeah. You can fix it with a plastic card and patience.

The on the left side by the middle?

Hard to tell for sure from such a low quality picture. But these two spots look a bit iffy

Attached: Screenshot_20190404-122615_Samsung Internet.jpg (1440x2960, 1.66M)

I'm someone else retard, just pointing out myself and others have called you out in the "security" aspect you bring up all the time

Newer AAA games so probably not eh, thanks.

Would it be worth it trying to do that or just RMA it? I can wait for a new one but I don't want try fixing it and fucking it up

Is that better quality

Attached: 20190404_172924.jpg (4032x3024, 1.32M)

I see a few bent pins on the left side. They don't look too bad though, you could bend them back into position carefully with a fine needle or the tip of a mechanical pencil.

i see 3 spots

lmao why do you still insist on that im samefagging?
idiot.

Attached: bent.jpg (858x805, 163K)

how could you jumpstart the PSU with the mobo connected?
did you understood nothing of this?
just get it to a technician, at this point it might be best to admit you havent actually described your problem correctly

i dont think you can fix those easily, they look completely squished and bent the wrong way, you're gonna have a fucking pain in the ass trying to bend them back and get the correct position in all 3 axis

top left and center left look bent
top right, mmiddle of top row also looks bent
you cant RMA this afaik, just do like user said, have patience, dont apply too much force, use a small needle to pull the pins into place

he needs tiny tweezers too or something to hold one side while unbending it cus it's going back on itself by the looks of it

Attached: bent.png (649x475, 3K)

The fuck I can't. EU laws are in my favour considering it came to me like this

>it came to me like this
oh yeh you can RMA it, hope it wasnt a scam

It was from amazon. I definitely think opened before desu since it has a dent in it

Do amdrones literally think if you open google with intel you will get hacked?

Attached: 1485030717895.png (913x767, 79K)

Imagine getting angry at facts.

Yes, those are.

Ya. Fix them by using two needles like tweezers. Less effort than RMAing it imo.

>spending thousands on a PC just to use google
yikes

you are on Jow Forums
your favorite browser is either corporation bloatware that cant run webm or a botnet
your social media belongs to private companies that have by default the request of using your personal data for their own works already fullfilled with the account creation

you are already hacked.

enlight me on how I could get hacked other than browsing

What brand, Asus, MSI, Gigabyte?

fucking jews I swear.

Attached: how cheap can you get.jpg (1623x1059, 532K)

>Imagine getting angry at facts.
Imagine being so delusional that you think a speculative branch prediction vulnerability should be reason enough not to buy a CPU that will probably be installed in a system running Windows 10 to play DRM-addled video games.
This.

If you want better input response, 9700k hands down.

Hello, recently received a large sum of money from work and have been slowly improving my current rig and I think it's time I invested into a graphics card instead of relying on the integrated graphics.
Here are my current specs.
I'm looking for something that can offer 1080p 60 fps on medium high settings, I'm preferential to high framerates.
Also not looking to overclock too hard or much at all, good ventilation is a must.
Budget is preferably between $200-$300 but I'm open to suggestions that go a little higher.
Currently eyeing these ones:

EVGA GeForce GTX 1060 6 GB single fan
-this one has two single fan versions: a standard and a super clocked. Idk if the difference is worth paying extra for the super clocked version.

ZOTAC GeForce GTX 1060 DirectX 12 6GB

MSI - Radeon RX 580 8 GB

XFX RX-590P8DFD6 Radeon Rx 590 Fatboy 8GB OC+

Games I usually play or want to play include:
Sekiro
Doom 2016/Eternal
Nier
American Truck SImulator
Prey
Yakuza
Monster Hunter
TF2 [spoiler]Over Watch too[/spoiler]

Sorry for the long post, if any more clarification is required, please ask, and thank you.

Attached: My Specs.png (481x368, 18K)

1660ti

Rate my build?
Gonna use it for modest gaming and 4k editing

CPU- Ryzen 7 2700X
Cooling- Corsair Hydro H115i Platinum
GPU- GTX 980 TI
MOBO- ASUS ROG STRIX X370
RAM- 4x8 32gb
HD- 8TB Segate Pro
SDD- WD Blue 1TB
Power- Seasonic 1000W 80+ Titanium

Are there still SSDs that don't come to a crawl after writing a few GB of data or does everyone just lie now and advertise it as up to 1.5gb/s which drops to below 300mb/s after a few seconds?

>980ti
why

i like how theres only 15gb of apparently 750mhz memory at super slow timers of sucha weird manufacturer it literally says unknown

its like, how do you do this? is it a modded memory stick? did you got some sort of DYI ram?

>980Ti
>1000W PSU
>4x8GB
explain those choices, they're awful

>buy this 7 years ago
>shitty chink power supply dies after 3 years
>pay 60 fucking dollars to replace the 150W shittier
>new shitty chink power supply dies after 4 years

The hell I'm giving the chinks another $60 for this shit. What's a good cheap modular power supply that over 150W and has 2 molex connectors (all it uses) in box. Preferably one that has a silent mode for low loads.

Attached: shitty chinese power supply.png (949x387, 104K)