/mkg/ - Iris edition

>Buying from keebio
Get it prebuilt off mechmarket, much cheaper.
>blank keycaps
Easy, just use Amazon. YMDK and NPKC have fine blanks
>Switches
Kbdfans, or candykeys I've heard is European but idk about them.

aliexpress obviously
DSA sets are available for under 20 bucks

It's like fullsize but with no numpad

Is that the mechmarket subreddit?
I dont trust people

Looking for a cheap mechanical keyboard with hotswappable switches (kailh)
aliexpress.com/item/HEXGEARS-GK706-Mechanical-Keyboard-Kailh-Blue-Switch-Gaming-Keyboard-Klavye-Keyboard-Gamer-104-Keys-Pink-Mechanical/32970802535.html
Found this. A guy in the previous post told me not to order from the HEXGEARS seller on aliexpress as they appear to not ship the product in question.

Does anyone have anything to suggest?

Yeah kek. I mean if you're willing to trust Chinese sellers it's basically the same.

it's comfy but I switched from ortholinear layouts. If you're switching to one of these from a standard 60%+ it would take a good amount of getting used to

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can I use PCB mount stabs with plate mount switches? My plate won't work with plate mount stabs. First time building so I don't know what I can get away with.

If your PCB supports PCB-mount stabs (most PCBs do), then you'll be fine.

It does, yeah. I was just hoping that was the case because my plate mount stabs aren't going to work and I really didn't want to have to buy another plate.

I'd say so. Enough that I wouldn't go back to a regular row staggered board.

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cherry brown or clear?

1) Budget
About $150

2) Location
Europe

3) Preffered switch type
I have Cherry browns but I'm not too fond of them. I would like to try blues or something but I'm gonna use this in an office so the noise is a no-no, so I guess linears are my only option.
I have no idea if I like them stiffer or not.

4) Layout
ISO is a must.

5) Form factor
I want a tenkeyless.

6) Backlight
No thanks.

7) Previous/current keyboard
I have a WASD v1 with browns, but it's far too big and my mouse needs to sit very far. I want a good TKL so that the keys are more centered.

Extra: It needs to have a detachable cable or be wireless.

tactile greys

Clear

do you get tired using them all day?
aight

What's the current easiest way to DMF? I'm a jobfag, so fucking around with custom printing shit then sourcing everything else and solder is less an issue than just forking over cash, given a reasonable degree of confidence in whoever I could buy shit from.

I can make your one m8. I have a few colors to choose from (the difference between the blue-grey and gunmetal grey is more noticeable in person).

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>budget
250$ give or take, cheaper the better obviously
>location
americuck
>switch
anything similar to cherry browns or clears, the quieter the better
>layout
ansi master race
>form factor
100% or 80% + external numpad
>backlight
aslong as I'm not losing something better
>current
shitter razer kb

I kinda wanna do something custom, but I can't solder anything and I also don't know anything when it comes to buying frames and boards and shit. But I'll take prebuilt recommendations too

Recommend me a good 1800 layout keeb

FC980

tell me why i shouldn't buy a race 3, besides the nonstandard esc and del keys? i dont plan on replacing the key caps

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Mine had a shitty enter key, and I didn't really like the floating case, sent it back for a tada and much prefer it

My dream layout for a keyboard is like an 1800 mixed with a Model F. You have the 1800 layout, function keys on top, and the two rows of extra keys on the left with shortcut functions like cut, paste, undo etc. I think it would also look kickass with a thick aluminum case. Unfortunately, I’m a brainlet when it comes to designing shit and I have the drawing skills of a monkey.

my dream is to punch you in your fruitcake mouth

Never heard “fruitcake” before. I’ll have to keep that one.

its the future

Worth it if you don't use a mouse

it would be cool to use something like this with the i3 window manager. without a tiling wm something like this just makes you look like a fucking colossal fruitcake

Just built this quefrency the other day. Having it split is so much better than I thought it would be. I need to replace the white middle layer. I 3d printed it before I bought these keycaps. I was using some 3d printed ones before this.

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WHATS A GOOD QUALITY SWITCH PULLER I CAN GET FOR MY HOTSWAP BOARD

your hands

Just type "switch puller" into amazon or aliexpress and pick whatever looks good.

i might have to get me one of these

waiting for this to come in the mail.
have some white choc switches black blank caps

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Is there a way to increase the weight required for actuation? Aside from buying a new keyboard or switches.

Swap the springs in the switches with heavier ones.

How are Unicomps?

Meh build quality, but one of the only options if you want a new buckling spring board.

I did I got some cheap chink shit that bent from 1upkeyboards

>I can make your one m8.
How much, and what parts/services included exactly?

I3 is precisely what I use

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Would be a fully assembled board with whatever switches you want & a bog standard trrs cable (usb cable too if you need it). Could include PBT DSA keycaps too but it probably makes more sense if you order those yourself off kbdfans. Also have single switch PCBs I'll use for it instead of wiring directly to the switches like pic related. Was thinking $200 + the cost of switches (since that varies quite a bit depending on the type). I can set up a throwaway email address if you have any other questions.

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god damn I envy those surroundings

do people buy keyboards with LEDs and just have them off? or do you go out of your way to buy without backlighting?

If you want the full "custom" experience but can't solder you could get a hotswap keyboard like the GMMK.
If you really want to make your own, soldering really isn't hard, but it's hard to list out PCBs and Cases within the budget.

In the case of my keyboard and many like it, it comes with RGB and you can't really get it without it.

Whats people's thoughts on the Corsair K70?

Just a generic gaming keyboard, better off getting a ducky.

Gayman meme keyboard, but not bad for a gayman meme keyboard.

Why do people like MiTo's sets so much?
Laser just looks tacky as fuck, I don't get it.

Didn’t they supposedly get their act together and bump up the quality a little?

If they did this is the first I've heard of it.

You aren't the first one. They have been anecdotal reports that Unicomp did get its shit together, at least a bit.

what makes a mechanical keyboard good besides the keycaps and (in my case) cherry switches? is it just the plastic that the case is made of?

General build quality, how programmable it is (or isn't), physical features like a cable gutter to route the cable, etc.

>mechkb.com
is pcbyte.com.au/ still the same site? or has this just not been updated in ages?

People like kitschy stuff.

getting white keycaps. should I got for a white, grey or black case?

Thanks user.

So do heavier switches feel better for people with heavy hands who always bottom out?

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Any opinion on these Varmilo keyboards?
They're about 144€/$

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you can get a generic plastic tkl board for half that
if it's linear or light tactile then yeah probably

Where in europe? With the ISO layout.

any of the GAMER brands like cooler master, corsair, hyperx etc
shit like this amazon.co.uk/Corsair-Mechanical-Switches-Backlighting-Ten-Keyless/dp/B06XQ5G9ZZ

not that I'd necessarily recommend those, but it's better than spending premium money on plastic like varmillo

I've checked some of those brands, but the problem is I want a detachable cable, and many of those don't have it.
I'm the guy with this request

Jesus Christ, I just spent 3 hours removing the clickbars, spring swapping, installing orings and applying tape to the top housing of my Kailh Chocs.

20g and damn near no noise with short as hell travel. This is kind of nuts.

it has not been updated in ages, mechkb use to be hella good

varmilo produce really good PBT keycaps though

Should I buy a kinesis freestyle edge gayman board and solder in some light lubed short throw linears for ultimate ergonomic gaman set up or just stick with an optical 60%?

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w key on my ~5yo ducky premier suddenly became unresponsive as fuck. wat do? you niggas told me these things are indestructible

ducky is overpriced plastic dogshit
though this error might be caused by the switch itself

>buying cherry shit
that's on you

build quality is really good, but lacking in features

No, get a kinesis advantage, the freestyle is staggered.

OK, that sounds pretty good. Do the individual switch PCBs allow swapping out switches like the newer Ergodox EZs, or is there some other advantage?

What kind of features will I be missing out?
All I had is a WASD v1 so I don't know what newer mech keyboards have as features.

Dactylbro, how do you put up with your board sliding all over your desk?

mostly programmablity and rgb. the layout's pretty standard, so programability might not be very important, but being able to program keys to act as one thing on press and another as hold is kind of a life changer

What's the consensus on the Cherry MX Silent Reds?
I need silent switches but I'm afraid they might feel to mushy or something.

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I definitely don't want RGB, and I probably don't need much programability since I'm looking for a TKL.

Topre

Guys, I need some help
Right shift keycap on my keyboard has pretty loose housings so it can't be held by stabilizers under the high pressure. Is there any way to fix it?

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I added some feet under my iris today
feels nicer now with these OEM keycaps
structural reinforcement

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What do you mean by this?

whatever you want it to mean buddy
hot glue might work, gets pretty hard

Not a compatible option with my request:

>kinesis advantage
The entire point of my post was asking if I should use a split board for video games as in the picture. Why would you mention a non-split?

Do not use any linears that are not lubed. If you are willing to lube them then they are good if you need silence. Also consider TTC silent red stems in a cherry or gateron housing. being as they only have a silencing nub for the upstroke they give you 50% of the silencing of a MX silent stem with 0% of the draw backs. The mush and reduced travel distance on MX and gateron silents are a result of the bottom nub which again is lacking on ttc silent.
With hotswap being a thing and all the soldering tools you need being under $90 there is no reason to not use lube with linears.

>just remapped left ctrl to left alt and viceversa
WTF, everything is so much more comfortable than ever. Why don't keyboards put ctrl close to the space bar anymore, like Lisp machine keyboards did?
Using your thumb is a million times better than using your pinky, even if you remap Caps Lock.
Besides, the fact that Ctrl was originally where most keyboards place Caps Lock today is largely a myth, only the first IBM PC keyboards did.
Take a look at pic related: doesn't the arrangement of Ctrl-Meta-Super-Hyper make a lot more sense? The most used keys are closer to the space bar, while the least used ones are further and further apart.

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So I'm about to get the TADA68, but I have no idea what to get in terms of switches. I want to use it exclusively for typing, so I'd like some kind of tactile feedback, but I don't want to wake up the neighbors, the Gateron Blue are out of the question I suppose.

Also what the heck is a T1 switch ?