/pcbg/ - PC Building General

>Assemble a part list
pcpartpicker.com/
>Example gaming builds and monitor suggestions; click on blue titles to see notes
pcpartpicker.com/user/pcbg/saved/
>How to assemble a PC
youtube.com/watch?v=69WFt6_dF8g

Want help?
>State budget & CURRENCY
>Post at least some attempt at a parts list
>List your uses, e.g. Gaming, Video Editing, VM Work
>For monitors, include purpose (e.g., photoediting, gaming) and graphics card pairing (if applicable)

CPUs based on current pricing:
>Athlon 200GE - HTPC, web browsing, bare minimum gaming (can be OC'd on most mobos with the right BIOS)
>R3 2200G - Recommended minimum gaming
>R5 2600/X - Great gaming or multithreaded use CPUs
>i7 8700/K - Extreme setup for absolute max FPS
>R7 2700/X - VM Work / Streaming / Video editing

RAM:
>Always choose at least a two stick kit; 2x 8GB is recommended
>CPUs benefit from high speed RAM; 3000CL15 or 3200CL16 is ideal
>AMD B and X chipsets and Intel Z chipsets support XMP

Graphics cards based on current pricing:
>Used cards can be had for a steal; inquire about warranty
1080p
>RX 570 8GB - good performance with great value
>GTX 1660 - standard
>RTX 2060 - very high framerates (requires complementary CPU and monitor)
1440p
>RTX 2060 - standard
>RTX 2080 - very high framerates (requires complementary CPU and monitor)
2160p (4K)
>RTX 2080 - standard
>RTX 2080Ti - better fit for 4K but expensive

General:
>PLAN YOUR BUILD AROUND YOUR MONITOR IF GAMING
>A 256GB or larger SSD is almost mandatory; consider m.2 form factor
>Bottleneck checkers are worthless

Previous:

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Other urls found in this thread:

pcpartpicker.com/list/FbDfWD
amazon.com/HP-Emperium-HDR-1000-Soundbar-Streaming/dp/B07M888GH8#customerReviews
pcpartpicker.com/list/TxB7xG
pcpartpicker.com/list/8T6P4q
cnet.com/products/soyo-sy-p4vgm-motherboard-micro-atx-socket-478-p4m266a/
pcpartpicker.com/list/fBfRdX
pcpartpicker.com/list/tDFpTB
youtube.com/watch?v=-pm0tfwjC70
twitter.com/SFWRedditVideos

Spire cooler on my ol 1600 is a little noisy - good ~$50/60 cooler? Be quiet or noctua?

GPU developer here, I work primarily in vulkan.

I have an intel integrated and a GTX 760 on my machine and can get them both working pretty fine. But some of my AMD clients are experiencing crashes and issues while my Intel and Nvidia users are just fine. So I figure now's about the time I get some kind of AMD card to put into my machine to dev against and ensure that my software works fine for AMD users. Effectively ending up with a machine that has Intel, Nvidia, an AMD gpu all in one(Yes the PCIE lanes will half between two gpus but that's fine).

I haven't gone AMD since the old Phenoms back in like 2009 or some shit so I'm at a loss as to how AMD GPU model numbers and architectures go.

What's a good and CHEAP "whatever" AMD GPU I should get and min-spec against that is about as approximately equal to a GTX 760?


I hear that GCN is basically like Intel's 14nm++++++ but GPU in that its a dead horse with little innovation

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whats the best cpu cooler for $30-60

>approximately equal to a GTX 760?
If you're talking new, maybe an RX 560, but a 570 can be had for just a little more and it's a lot more powerful

You can find RX570 for close to $100.
It's not super cheap, but is by far the best value for the money. An RX560 is half the performance yet nearly the same price.
You could look for used RX560. Might find them for under $50. It'll be similar to the 760, +/- 15%.

>I hear that GCN is basically like Intel's 14nm++++++ but GPU in that its a dead horse with little innovation
It's not. People are retarded. Polaris is significantly different from GCN 1.0. It has massively better video encoders, as well. Vega is even more significantly different.
However, what works on Polaris is generally still going to work pretty well on a 7970.

You could also simply build another machine with a 2400G. Its iGPU is about 10% weaker than a 750Ti when overclocked.

Scythe Mugen 5 or Ninja5 with Arctic 120mm PWM fans swapped on.

>Be PC newfag
>Never built a computer before
>Have a Pentium 4 machine in bad shape with a dead PSU and a more recent (2009 or so) used slim microATX case
>Decide to migrate the P4 to that case as practice for when I build my gayming computer in the next couple months
>Use the small PSU that comes with the slim case
>Everything seems to be okay so power it on
>Check the BIOS to see what I'm working with
>Set all settings to something along the lines of "default for best performance" instead of "most stable" because I'm retarded
>Everything works okay the first time I power it on, I managed to get into Win XP
>Suddenly it shuts off by itself
>Now it won't boot
>3 long beeps every time I turn it on, then silence, then 3 more beeps
>Ram gets incredibly hot to the touch in a matter of seconds
>No image
Oh shit did I kill this thing? I didn't have it running more than 15 minutes. Did that fuck up the Ram? How am I supposed to set everything back to how it was if I can't access the BIOS now? I have a lot of nostalgia for this PC, I really hope it's not dead.

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This looks good. Something I realize now though is power draw.
This machine is running 24/7 and I would like for the power draw of this thing to be pretty low and some of these RX 560 and above look pretty power hungry where as I'm just trying to get a "anything that touches AMD" card for cheap. Does the RX series have a cheap low-profile series that sips power but still uses a similar arch as the others? I'm willing for it to be less powerful than the GTX 760.

I'm considering just making a little "cheapo" build with one of the APU processors but that would multiply the price point I am imagining right now.

The idle power consumption is only around 12-18W. It'll be lower than your 760.
Also indie games at 60fps are probably only going to use a few watts more than that. It's just running flat out 100% that they can use a lot of power.

RX 550 is what you're looking for then. Not very powerful but fairly modern architecture (2017).

How do I choose a wifi card for my gaming PC? Can I get a good speed in online games with a wifi card? The only alternative is Ethernet to a router right? Pls help.

Hows this
pcpartpicker.com/list/FbDfWD

I want a big fat 4k monitor what do I use?

>gaming
>wifi
Fuck that. Check out powerline adapters. I use one and it's indistinguishable from ethernet in my house.

I used one and it would regularly stop working after a few hours.

It's fine but the 212 seriously isn't worth $30. Just use the stock cooler or get an actual cooler.

That sucks, could just be a bad model but impossible to tell without buying a different brand and trying again since you're at the mercy of your home's wiring. Still, wifi for gaming is horrendous. I could never go back so all I can do is wish you luck.

Have you tried removing and reinserting the CMOS battery? Unplug it, try it out and let us know what happens. It's the coin-shaped battery on the lower left corner of the motherboard.

Try starting it with one stick of ram, then the other. If that doesn't work, double check everything is plugged in correctly and standoffs are installed etc.

I already have a router in my house, a wifi PCIe would be easiest to use. Is there that big of quality difference?

>Is there that big of quality difference?
Yes. Wifi is garbage. Packet loss out the ass.

I got you.

amazon.com/HP-Emperium-HDR-1000-Soundbar-Streaming/dp/B07M888GH8#customerReviews

>Have you tried removing and reinserting the CMOS battery?
>Try starting it with one stick of ram, then the other
Yes I did all that before posting, it did nothing. Is there a reason for the ram to get that hot? I noticed it was overheating because I tried to remove it and it hurt to hold it in my hand.

Also
>standoffs are installed
What? This case didn't have any of them to begin with. Should I reuse the ones that were in the other case? Does it make a difference to have them or not?

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4,600+ usd

Holy shit are you trolling

Jesus Christ

Here's something I slapped together really quick. How's it look?

Attached: slapped.png (724x636, 49K)

Needs SSD

Forgot to reply

Don't trust this guy:
I did what he told and now my PC is dead.

What's your budget range?

how is scythe's stock thermal paste.
i have some old arctic silver 5 left over.
is it better?

Not bad, but get the R5 2600 and 3200CL16 RAM
Also an SSD if you can stretch your budget

Not normal for the memory to get that hot and three beeps generally indicates a memory problem. Order a cheap stick of memory and try that.

Trying to keep it within 750, but I can go a little bit over 800 if necessary for the best results.

>What? This case didn't have any of them to begin with. Should I reuse the ones that were in the other case? Does it make a difference to have them or not?
Standoffs prevent your board from short-circuiting from touching the metal, grounded case. Definitely install them and try to boot with them. Unfortunately, if the lack of standoffs is indeed the issue, there's a non-zero chance you fried at least some of your system.

Do you have a microcenter near? They have good bundle deals for AMD

Thanks guys

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Also monitor is complete trash, basically a waste of money
If you're getting something that bad, you just go used

No way to save these two sticks then? And how do I know it's not going to fry the new sticks as well once I get them?

>Standoffs prevent your board from short-circuiting from touching the metal
Well this case already has the screw holes elevated from the metal so I didn't think it was necessary.

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2400G > 2600
RAM should ideally be closer to 2933 Mhz
Get an SSD instead of an HDD you can, even a cheap one is way faster than a HDD. Unless you just need the space more (maybe look into a SSHD instead then).

>cmon goy, don't buy AMD! Look at these memes! Heh, only a shmuck would buy it after seeing those! What are you, an anti semite?! Want to borrow $20 for a mail in rebate? Alright, that'll be $50!

>Well this case already has the screw holes elevated from the metal so I didn't think it was necessary.
Oh in that case what I had said shouldn't be the issue.

>No way to save these two sticks then? And how do I know it's not going to fry the new sticks as well once I get them?
It's more of a diagnostic tool to determine if the problem is indeed the ram. Chances are very very very slim you're gonna "fry" the new stick(s) (you won't).

>No way to save these two sticks then? And how do I know it's not going to fry the new sticks as well once I get them?
If you could even boot from a USB then you could run memtest to see if the memory is any good but seeing as how you probably can't even do that then your options are limited. If you know your motherboard model number you can google that and the three beep error code. I can almost guarantee it's a memory issue from that being the code and the fact that you told me the DIMMs are unnaturally hot. Now it could mean that your motherboard is supplying incorrect voltage to those sticks which fucked them up and fried them but the only way to check that out would be to get into BIOS, which you can't do.

I just got a Vega 64 for $250 and a Ryzen 1600 with mobo for $110 off craigslist. Upgrade season is coming and cheapfags like me are ready to collect the drippings.

based cheapfag

I paid $300 for mine and $100 for a 2600, way to go cheapfag. We will rule the world.

R8
pcpartpicker.com/list/TxB7xG

based and redpilled

8.5/10. Not too sure about the GPU. Personally, would get a larger SSD.

>Chances are very very very slim you're gonna "fry" the new stick(s) (you won't)
What if they start getting really hot like the ones I already have? What even is causing that in the first place?

I just wanted to turn this into a simple emulation machine, hopefully without spending any money...

>If you know your motherboard model number you can google that and the three beep error code
It's a Soyo SY-P4VGM v1.0, I've never heard of that brand before, and I can't find much info since it's so old.

>Now it could mean that your motherboard is supplying incorrect voltage to those sticks which fucked them up and fried them
The PSU couldn't have done that since it's smaller than the one it originally had, right...? (None of them state the Wattage btw) It's the only part I changed.

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ABsolutely based, and this is exactly what I'm planning on doing. It's amazing how these upgrade retards never learn. Remember the hype train leading up to Vega? How all these people created their own fables on how awesome this shit was gonna be? Navi is gonna be the same. It's gonna be the similar cards, just much cheaper (but still expensive at launch - the vega 64 equivalent is going to be min AUD600 at launch). Thanks to these guys upgrading and getting rid of their v64. I'm already seeing a waterblocked v56 listed for aud400 on gumtree, so I can't wait for navi to drop to get a v64 for dirt cheap.

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Good build, get a 750W or 850W PSU. You don't need the wattage necessarily, but the lower demand will keep it cooler and it'll draw less power at the outlet.

Can I have too many watts for my PSU? It's not going to use more than it needs for components anyways right?

did you do what pic related says, user?

>What if they start getting really hot like the ones I already have?
Then you'll have identified the probable error.
>What even is causing that in the first place?
Probably what the other user said.

What wattage do your current and former PSUs supply?

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what gpu then. its at the top of my price ramge

about how much cooler if i go to 750w

How well can I rest my foot on this panel?
I plan to wire the reset button to powerOn/Off on the motherboard, and don't plug the power button in.
That way I won't hit the big button by accident when my foot rests on the panel.

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This better?

Is there anything better within the same price range? I'm really only aiming for 1080p with this build.

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How about don't rest your foot on the one part of your case with a power button??

How many fckin fans do I need for a fucking gaming PC fuck, 3 on front, 1 in back or what just answer me fuck I hate building a PC I just want to finish I've been spending 2 weeks on this shit and I just want a god damn fckin PC aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa

I can't, I have this case right now and it's just too comfy not to do it.
That big rounded edge, it's like it's made for your feet...

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don't use corsair power supplies. go with seasonic or evga. corsair has a shitty warranty policy where you will have to pay to ship it to their repair facility which is completely unreasonable considering how heavy they are

>did you do what pic related says, user?
I removed the battery, yes. The Ram is installed and this computer never had a GPU.

>What if they start getting really hot like the ones I already have?
>Then you'll have identified the probable error
Then what? I'll just have two dead sets of memory and 10 bucks less in my pocket.

>What wattage do your current and former PSUs supply?
The big PSU it originally had was 400W, the small one I was using when this happened is 450W.

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I just want a damn PC aaaaaaaggggg I hate building pcs fuck, IT'S TOO HARD!

Drop the 2600x to a 2600
Increase the PSU to a 750w
Maybe a beefier CPU cooler
Drop the GPU completely. You're better off using a completely shit $30 second hand card for a few months than paying that price for a v56 now. I'm not one of those waitfags, but with Navi just around the corner, the v56 and 64 are going to collapse in price. You'll highly likely be able to get a v64 for around $350-400.

Fuck yeah

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>Then what? I'll just have two dead sets of memory and 10 bucks less in my pocket.
Then you'd probably need a new motherboard. Also I very much so doubt it would kill a new memory stick if you shut it down after it's clear no image is appearing. You said you were building a new computer in the next few months, so would the $10 be that big of a deal?

>The big PSU it originally had was 400W, the small one I was using when this happened is 450W.
Protip: when referring to PSUs, "big" and "small" should mean the wattage, physical size is virtually irrelevant and can get confusing. How old is the 450W PSU?

pic related, it's literally you

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The plastic has become shiny from the years of feet

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Get a footrest like a normal person you subhuman scum

>Then you'd probably need a new motherboard
Is there a way to check if it's the motherboard before spending money on this?

>would the $10 be that big of a deal?
Well yes I'm doing my best to save money to buy a good computer in the next 8 months, but other than that I'm pretty fucked financially so I don't like wasting money like that. That's 10 bucks I could be using to stuff my fucking face with quantity>quality food or something.

>How old is the 450W PSU?
Well the computer it came with was an AMD Athlon 64 X2 4000 so I'm guessing 2006-2009.

Is it worth it to pay extra for a gold certified PSU?

the difference between the 2600x and 2600 is only $25
i have a shitty gtx 660, i dont feel like waiting more.
it already took me 8 months to save up

>Is there a way to check if it's the motherboard before spending money on this?
Well since you can't even boot to BIOS right now, the best way to troubleshoot is to start replacing parts one by one and seeing if it boots. So no, not as far as I know.

>Well yes I'm doing my best to save money to buy a good computer in the next 8 months, but other than that I'm pretty fucked financially so I don't like wasting money like that. That's 10 bucks I could be using to stuff my fucking face with quantity>quality food or something.
Understandable, but like I said before, you most likely won't fry a new stick of ram just by testing it briefly.

>Well the computer it came with was an AMD Athlon 64 X2 4000 so I'm guessing 2006-2009.
That's oooold my dude. And you said it was used? That could be the issue. Since you're already gonna be building a new PC my advice here would be to get your new PSU now and try that in this computer to rule that out. You won't be wasting money since you'd be getting it anyway.

Updated CPU cooler
pcpartpicker.com/list/8T6P4q

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>Soyo SY-P4VGM v1.0
cnet.com/products/soyo-sy-p4vgm-motherboard-micro-atx-socket-478-p4m266a/
You want PC1600 DDR RAM. Just google harder, fuck dude. Just buy a stick for like 10 bucks and at least you'll have your answer.
>I'm pretty fucked financially so I don't like wasting money like that. That's 10 bucks I could be using to stuff my fucking face
If you're really fucked financially then don't even bother with this PC. If you can't spare literally like 5 dollars on it then it isn't really worth it to you and you're just wasting our time with these fucking questions. People literally throw RAM like this away it's that old.
>get your new PSU now and try that in this computer to rule that out
It wouldn't be a waste if he ends up using that but it's definitely the memory or motherboard that's fucked. Wouldn't even get hopes up that it's a PSU issue.

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>It wouldn't be a waste if he ends up using that but it's definitely the memory or motherboard that's fucked. Wouldn't even get hopes up that it's a PSU issue.
Yeah I know, it's a bit of a hail mary for him

when are the new AMD gpus coming out?
will W7 have any issues running a 1660?

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We'll know more at Computex and probably not much until then unless there are some leaks.

Why is negative air pressure supposed to provide better temperatures than positive? I understand that it means the hot air will be pulled away from the components, but doesn't positive air pressure essentially force cool air towards the components? I seem to remember Steve from GN saying something to this effect but I can't remember where. Additionally, doesn't the positive pressurehelp exhaust the hot air (as long as there's a clear airflow path / direction such as front to back)?
I want to know because I'm trying to decide if its worth going 3 intakes / 1 exhaust or just sticking with the stock 2 intakes / 1 exhaust. It's a clear front to rear airflow path in either case, which I would think is pretty ideal if you want to do positive pressure, no?
Case is Phanteks P600S, which can be used with either mesh open at the top and front, or closed off.

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Is there any discernible difference between brands of GPU, or is it all brand loyalty? I've only purchased MSI, EVGA, and ASUS GPUs the past 15 years some aught years, but am looking into the Gigabyte 1660 Ti. Question still standing, is there anything to note between said brands, or is brand loyalty to blame for skewed preferences?

If you're talking just the brands themselves, it's mostly in warranty coverage and the quality of the support.

i ran a 5 minute intel extreme cpu stress test on my 9700k with a d-15, it bounced between 50 and 60, is this normal for a d-15, just wondering if everything is fine or if i put the paste on wrong, i did struggle a little with the screws with springs on them

r8 h8
pcpartpicker.com/list/fBfRdX

Right now I'm torn between a 2070 and 2080, brand doesn't matter to me. I already own the drives and I also own a 850w gold-rated PSU but it's 10 years old and I think I should replace it. Should I replace the HDD too if it's the same age?
I also have a feeling the PSU I picked out is overkill.
Also, I was considering a Define R6 for the case but if I can take this case, swap some fans and get similar noise with better airflow I'll do that.

Does using balanced or high power matter for power settings on desktop?

I have a fucking old PC which I still use, but the monitor is broken. My last monitor was a small 720p one, I'm thinking of buying a new 1080p monitor. How to know whether it's compatible with my old processor and gpu?

My pc has:
Intel Dual Core E2160
ATI Radeon x1550
3 gb of ram

I know that it's old, but I only use it for browsing and programming. And my saving is not enough yet to buy a whole set of new computer.

Forgot to add that it's for vidya, targeting 1440p/120-144hz for new games on at least high settings, but not necessarily super turbo ultra.

>that cpu, cooler, and motherboard
Intel fags will actually fucking defend this.

What's wrong with them?
I've only built 1 computer before and went with Intel that time, so I defaulted to it, but I'm not a loyalist.

Is there a significant difference in performance on Ryzen 2600 between 3000Mhz and 3200Mhz RAM provided CAS latency stays the same?

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I play 144hz ultra on my 2600x really well, maybe get a 2700x but overall mobos for intel and that tower cooler are just insanely overpriced

pcpartpicker.com/list/tDFpTB

Rate
Already have an 850watt gold+ psu from my current build
Its for 1440p ultrawide gaymin and work.

If you get a 2700 (x variant if you dont wanna bother with oc'ing), then you'll be saving a lot of money not only on the cpu but also the motherboard. Added benefit is that ryzen 2 cpus are still gonna be am4, so you could always upgrade to a 3700 without changing the board. You don't wanna pay that much for a mobo that becomes redundant because intel decided to change the platform inside 2 generations yet again.

Is $120 really that expensive for a mobo? It seemed about the same for full ATX AMD mobos, though I see the argument for socket compatibility.
I did plan on OCing, and I think if I was going for AMD I'd wait on the new stuff since this build is a few months out either way.
How does an overclocked 2700 compare to a 9700k? I had always heard that Intels are better for gaming.

>I just got a Vega 64 for $250
Noice.

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For what CPU? Personally I'm happy with the stock cooler for my i5 4690S.

$120 is a little on the high side, but if you're overclocking you definitely want a premium motherboard. Personally If I were building a system today, I'd be looking at a micro atx h360 board for

>How does an overclocked 2700 compare to a 9700k?
Highly comparable.
youtube.com/watch?v=-pm0tfwjC70
intel will always have the advantage of faster single core performance, but the few fps you gain isn't worth paying double the amount. 2700 will be even cheaper when the 3700 comes out, so you have excellent options either way.

As for the mobo, you'll easily find a b450 mobo for am4 socket under $90. The 'higher end' x470 are around the same price ($120), but the vrm's aren't always better, so the oc'ing experience evens out. B450 aorus pro for eg is a really good board at a great price.

Is this a good time to buy memory? or it is still fucked?
Prices have gone down pre-bitcoin level

is there a more well balanced non bottlenecked $300-400 budget system than this? just look at that perfect cpu+gpu utilization in sync.

Attached: 5.jpg (1920x1080, 409K)

Thing to note about the benchmark too is its the games at 1080p, at 1440p and higher the fps differences are really negligible.

>G402 £19 on amazon right now
I don't even need a new mouse but still tempted