/pcbg/ - PC Building General

>Create a parts list
pcpartpicker.com/
>Learn how to build a PC
youtube.com/watch?v=69WFt6_dF8g

Want help?
>State the budget & CURRENCY
>List your uses e.g. Gaming, Video Editing, VM Work
>For monitors include purpose & graphics pairing
>NO Speccy or "bottleneck checkers"


Secure CPUs based on current prices
>1600/1700 - for non-gaming; worse in gaming due to slower memory latency
>R3 2200G - Light 30-60fps gaming(dGPU optional)
>R5 2600/X - Good 60fps+ gaming & multithreaded work use
>R7 2700/X - Best value high-end CPU on a non-HEDT platform
>Threadripper - HEDT

RAM
>NEVER use only a single stick
>8GB - very light use, and/or if you don't mind closing programs regularly
>16GB - standard amount. If you have to ask if you need more, you don't
>CPUs benefit from fast RAM; 2800MHz+ is ideal. Check "more" for true latency formula

Graphics cards based on current pricing:
>Used cards can be had for a steal; inquire about warranty
1080p
>RX 570/580 - value.
>1660 - Slightly better for more demanding games on high/maxed 60fps+;
> 1660Ti / 1070 / Vega56 / 2060 - higher framerates
1440p (WQHD)
>1070Ti / Vega / 2070 - 60-120fps+ in most games on high/maxed
>RTX 2080 / 2080Ti - higher framerates
>Radeon VII - may be considered; needs cooler mod to run quiet
2160p (4k)
>RTX 2080 / Radeon VII - upscale or lower settings
>RTX 2080 Ti, but poor value.

Other
>Consider a larger SSD (better GB/$) instead of small SSD & HDD
>M.2 is a form factor, NOT a performance standard
>Consider 75hz display minimum; 60hz are old models
>PLAN BUILD AROUND YOUR MONITOR IF GAMING
>AIOs don't change the laws of thermodynamics

rentry.co/pcbg-more

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Other urls found in this thread:

kaspersky.com/blog/35c3-spectre-meltdown-2019/25268/
thehackernews.com/2018/03/amd-processor-vulnerabilities.html
youtube.com/watch?v=pfnzHA3-MhM
officeworks.com.au/shop/officeworks/p/bathurst-chair-black-jbbathchbk
forums.anandtech.com/threads/thermal-compound-help-requested-stock-scythe-vs-cm-vs-as5.2553631/
pcpartpicker.com/list/ZQcpTB
pcpartpicker.com/list/bTbB3b
pcpartpicker.com/list/LcnDLJ
pcpartpicker.com/list/F7ZYxG
twitter.com/NSFWRedditImage

This is a pretty bad OP, for the following reasons:

>Secure CPUs
AMD CPUs aren't secure

>Moreover, even though earlier AMD had claimed that its CPUs were not exposed to Meltdown-class vulnerabilities, researchers discovered a variation of Meltdown (called Meltdown-BR) that was perfectly operational with AMD CPUs. So at this point, the CPUs of all three of the largest global CPU vendors — AMD, ARM, and Intel — are susceptible to both Meltdown and Spectre. Well, at least to some of the variations from both these families.
kaspersky.com/blog/35c3-spectre-meltdown-2019/25268/ - Kaspersky, one of the foremost names in security

>Moreover, researchers also claimed to have found two exploitable manufacturer backdoors inside Ryzen chipset that could allow attackers to inject malicious code inside the chip.
thehackernews.com/2018/03/amd-processor-vulnerabilities.html
Which raises the question, is OP a glowie?

No Intel CPUs are mentioned, because OP is an AMD fanbitch.

>Graphics cards
>1440p
The 2060 isn't mentioned because of the 'muh VRAM' meme that's been proven false time and time again, despite performing as well as or better than the 1070Ti and Vega 56 with a significant boost to efficiency
youtube.com/watch?v=pfnzHA3-MhM

EVGA 750 G3
6850k
GTX 980 Ti

Would it hurt the wifi card or graphics card having the wifi heatsink about a millimeter from the graphics card backplate?

>getting baited this hard
Literally nobody even read the OP. Just look at any of the "is this gud" builds that constantly get posted with trash i5s and shit ram.

Nvidia uses HBM2, knuckle dragger

Kek

Stop lying. You've already been BTFO dozens of times.
All those "AMD securtiy flaws" you site are already fixed. Meanwhile, Intel has over 10 vulnerabilities which are far more major than those were, and CAN'T/WON'T be patched because they are too ingrained in flaws in the architecture and would require flushing page tables every cycle LMAO.

Redpill me on chairs. Ive heard that typical office chairs are better for you but i really want something with a headrest since half the time i will be lounging and halfway lying down to watch tv. Are gayming chairs total shit or what?

the dxracer tier chairs arent too bad but are expensive. an exec office chair from an office shutting down is your best bet for cheap good chairs.

Halp

Are Noctua D15s the best air cooler, ignoring the colors?

>All those "AMD securtiy flaws" you site are already fixed
They aren't. Literal manufacturer backdoors. Learn to read, shithead.

if its not blocking airflow its fine

Thanks. Here's to hoping everything works.

>Ive heard that typical office chairs
Yes

>but i really want something with a headrest
Really..?
Well Herman Miller has ones with headrest
Haworth has ones with headrests as well. I have a Haworth, and its nice, but the cushion hasn't lasted 5+ years despite me only weighing 140lb. They are cheaper and good for the back and supporting a proper seating position, though.

Pretty much. Plenty of others are within like 1-3% though.
And if you're getting an efficient CPU, you don't need a D15. Just get a Scythe Mugen 5 or Ninja 5 and swap on Arctic 120mm PWM fans.

Post proof, shithead.

I've got one of these
officeworks.com.au/shop/officeworks/p/bathurst-chair-black-jbbathchbk
I think it's great. I sit on it all day and I don't get a sore back or neck.

What's the difference between a mugen and ninja, and what does the fan swap do for them?

>Post proof, shithead.
Already did, shithead.

Post actual proof instead of FUD that's been refuted dozens of times over and over

Ninja looks cooler and costs more. Slightly larger.
But both are 6 heatpipes.
>what does fan swap do
The fans which come with them aren't as good as the heatsink itself is. Arctic 120mm PWM fans are top tier in performance-per-noise, only barely noticeably behind Noctuas for 1/4th the price.
I've had a few Arctic fans over the years, and the pitch of them is such that the noise is muffled fully by the PC case. Though I do hear their 140mm fans are bad, so avoid those if you need 140mms.

>PC boots weird
>windows system repair
>doesnt move off 0%
>is of the oldest HDD
>take the hit and just reset, abort the system repair
>everything booted okay
>other HDD was okay
>defective HDD also couldnt be repaired by windows system
>removed it and PC is now 100% fine
how likely is that this is the SATA cable? i dont really need it but its not like i wanna just trash it?

Thanks. Is the thermal paste that comes with mugen stuff as good as the noctua stuff or is it all the same?
All I have is some AS5 what I heard is no good these days.

tl;dr cry more faggot

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forums.anandtech.com/threads/thermal-compound-help-requested-stock-scythe-vs-cm-vs-as5.2553631/
It's not much better than arctic silver according to this.
So maybe you should get some kryonaut. Diamond 7, NT-H1, or Gelid Extreme if you want to save money as IIRC those are a lot cheaper.

mugen 5 + 5 pack of arctic fans + 1gram of kryonaut is like $82. That is almost what a D-15 costs though you have 3 extra arctic fans to use for case fans.
I'd skip the paste unless you have an old GPU you also need to repaste or something. 2c difference isn't much.

>AS5
It's not BAD. It's just almost always worse than the paste that coolers come with already. It's not worth buying compared to better options if you're going to actually buy paste.

>1 meltdown + local exploits possible on (physically and locally) hacked hardware "discovered" by israeli shills trying to short AMD who were paid to do so by intel
vs
>intels 30+ vulnerabilities, almost all of which remain completely unpatched on a hardware level and will remain as such until 10nm cpus come out in 2020 maybe

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I bought a bunch of fans last year to test them out. There was something I didn't like about my 120mm arctic fan but now I can't remember. I ended up using Cryorig case fans. I think the Arctic was as quiet as any of them but if I held my hand up to feel airflow it didn't feel like it was pulling as much as the others. I suppose I should really try the fans in a controlled environment and check the case temps.

Ehh, unlikely in my experience; I'd be much more willing to bet on the HDD fucking up than a relatively simple SATA cable. Sorry, chief.

Is a 2600x or a 2700x going to be better for gaming at 1440p 144hz

pcpartpicker.com/list/ZQcpTB

What kind of wattage should I be looking at for a PSU for this build? Says it's only pulling about 270, but that feels awfully low. Even adding five or six case fans only bumps it up to 300; would a 550W unit do the trick, or ought I bite the bullet and go for 650?

>2700x
This, although I'd wager intel would be better for 144hz, if more expensive. Hope someone can give you a better answer.

>post proof
I did
>No wait post actual proof
Get fucked, shithead

>navi memes etc
im certain thats single thread performance territory

pls be gentle its babbys first build

I'm mainly building it because I want the 10 fucking extra hard drive slots I can shove in the case but its time to upgrade anyway.

I don't play games really so I was just going to use the onboard video but, there's room for a gpu if I ever need/want one. I know I'll have to get a PCI sata card at some point. I'll probably get a 10Gbit card as some point too. The PSU seems overkill, but if I stuff it full of hard drives and get a gpu and another monitor it seems about right according to some calculator

Also I use linux and I'm a big gay freetard if that's relevant

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if its not a gaymen rig buy a 2200g. 500-600w platinum rated psu and rest is fine.

>recommend 2060
>works right out of the box
Explain again why someone should buy a Vega or the 2060? The fact that you HAVE to under volt makes me wonder if AMD even test their own cards.

currently using an i5 8400 and 2060 at 3440x1440

thinking of upgrading to a 2080 because mostly i'm bored. will the 8400 be a big bottleneck? I have a b360 motherboard, so buying a k chip seems like a waste to me

I mean I just hope the 3000 series is better at it, I don't really have issues on my 2600x hitting 144hz and keeping stable but I'd rather not lose my ability to do work for a few frames more with Intel.

And the 1 meltdown vulnerability is actually a misnamed Spectre one. The misnamed Meltdown-BR. lol.
Meltdown vulnerabilities are ones that exploit a lack of privilege checks or bypass privilege checks somehow. Doesn't happen on any AMD arch.

No, you didn't. You're just spreading FUD hoping others are too stupid to cross-reference what that site says and see it's literally nothing and paid for by Intel.

Why do you think needs a 500W PSU for a hur dur clicking auto-undervolt is too hard buy Nvidia the true choice for morons like me

So I’ve got all the hardware down for my rig all I need now is an OS. Obviously I’m not gonna lay 100+ for windows 10 and I looked at options for cheaper windows 10. Does anyone know a way to get cheap legit windows 10 keys or if this sdckey is legit? Also I know about media creation tool but I want full windows. If I can’t find anything I’ll just settle for the incomplete windows 10

>pic not related

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500w in case he buys a gpu later on for it. no one sells efficient 200w psus.

why did you bothered clocking a i7 with a z board but not its OCable version

if you will never go above 1440p120 go with what anons told you.

you think everyone thinks everyone else is you
you think you're that important lmao

rent free

>all this unsourced FUD with a 10 IQ meme to go along with it
You're seething, try to control yourself

The 2700X is barely better in games than the 2600X

Probably no reason to get an i7 unless you're compiling gentoo every day

Vega was for people who like to tinker; there's not much reason to get a V56 these days. Navi is coming in a few months, so any diehard AMD fan with a decent graphics card will wait, and anyone who just needs to upgrade now would likely better off with 2060

>will the 8400 be a big bottleneck?
No, but if you want you can get the i7 8700 which is significantly better than the i5 you have. If your monitor is 60 or 75Hz, there's no reason to upgrade

What's a smarter buy for a PSU, a 750w platinum or 850w gold?

750w platinum

look at the pastebins in

would any b450 motherboard good enough for at least 5 year and with fast ram or I really need better motherboard?

any tips for switching to ryzen from an old i5
what do i gotta do to drivers and shit

literally nothing you just need a new motherboard since ryzen won't fit in your current socket

new motherboard, motherboard drivers, and possibly new DDR4 ram since Ryzen doesn't support DDR3

He means software side.

You will need to reinstall Windows.

reinstall OS. its a lot easier than fucking with drivers.

yea thats what i mean why do i need to completely reinstall?
can i use a usb to repair files or whatever
i just installed win 10 so i dont wanna do it all over again shiet

Because it's a lot easier than fixing all the drivers that are going to be fucked because windows installs appropriate files for your hardware.

It's not like graphics card drivers where it's mostly just one thing.

Alright Jow Forums I've spent all day narrowing down my choices, which of the following do you think is the best monitor for the price? I don't really care about viewing angle, and I tend to play in a well light room. I have a 970 that needs to be upgraded sometime but not right now. Which would you get?
AOC AGON AG271QX $569
ASUS ROG Swift PG279Q $949
Gigabyte AORUS AD27QD $969
ASUS MG279Q $699

these prices sound australian. my choice would be the Acer VG271UP - $599

what a pain the ass lads
last time i upgraded from a10 apu to i5 i didnt reinstall shit and it was fine for years but whatever ill do it this time

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You don't need more than 400-750W unless you're using Skylake-X (which would also mean you're a mega retard and shouldn't bother asking for help for your retarded build).
As how power usage as a 2080Ti and 9900k is, a 750W is still enough. But builds like a 2600X+1660ti don't even use 250W.

Do a clean new install of Windows. You can have tons of problems by just replacing the hardware without doing a new install of Windows.
Some games do retarded shit like generate of a config on install of your hardware capabilities and don't upgrade it when your hardware changes. A driver cleaner alone won't fix that.

>bunch of 4 year old monitors
holy fucking yikes people actually pay new prices for obsolete 4 year old shit in prison country

pcpartpicker.com/list/bTbB3b

Any input on this very likely new build? for gaming and maybe some streaming.

Attached: IMG_3749.jpg (640x453, 63K)

what motherboard manufacturers are good?

upgraded just today and this MSI board i got is so infested with gamer bullshit i had to turn the boot logo off, and it wouldn't work with my PS/2 keyboard for some reason

>holy fucking yikes people actually pay new prices for obsolete 4 year old shit in prison country
Sadly yes.
There's nothing I can do, shipping tears me a new one no matter what I do.

>2080
Buy used.

>anyone? looking for a 3~4 year computer that lasts college. Not necessarily gaming oriented.
Thanks.

I'm going to have a spare 7700k and MSI z270 gaming M7 lying around soon, are they good components to make a NAS out of or should I look at something else?

You're not attractive enough for anyone here to make a list for you

It was more of a recommendation than a list. Maybe someone lurking might be taking game design and using zbrush/photoshop already.
If i wanted a complete pcpartpicke list, i would have spoilered my gf tits for you thirsty fuckers.

I'm a total failure and need some help. I have an older system that I'm having some issues with that I could use some advice on, especially in regards to upgrades and possible outcomes. Money is pretty tight at the moment, so I'm not talking about super high end parts or anything.
ASUS Z97-A USB 3.1
ASUS GTX 970 STRIX
i7 4790
16 GB Corsair DDR3 1600Mhz

My BIOS is borked and I can't access it, I get a hard freeze at the page. My mobo is slowly failing. I can't access shit like boot order.
I just got a Gigabyte GA Z97X Gaming 5 from a friend of mine - it has a few bent pins but he tested it and says it works. I'm thinking about trying to fix them (it's only 3-4 pins) and move my system over to that. Problem is that I'm fucking terrified of breaking them, how hard is it to fix pins?

If the mobo works and I can move everything over, should I upgrade to a used 980 Ti? I don't have a huge budget, but it seems like a pretty nice and affordable upgrade. I can also pretty easily trade up my CPU for the k version, with just a little money involved. I don't mind buying used hardware if I know it works.
If the mobo doesn't work/I fuck up the pins, should I just buy a different used one without issues and then go for the 980, or just do a full budget upgrade to a new mobo, 9600k, and new RAM? I'm not exactly sure how much I need a CPU upgrade as I feel like I'm held back more by GPU at the moment.

As someone with 2x monitors, (1x 1920x1080 & 1x 1366x768), I'm trying to decide on how to go about my monitor set up.
Try and buy the same 1920x1080 monitor I have and sell my 1366x768?
Or try and sell both of these to go for something like a 21:9, with the possibility of getting a secondary monitor later down the line?
I don't do anything that warrants a ton of screen real estate, so either option would be fine.

Also, since I don't play any esports titles or racing games, is there any real necessity in getting a higher than 60Hz display?
At most I might play some fairly small indie games, RPG, or an occasional older-gen shooter, and I'm fine with 60Hz (maybe until I try a 60+ Hz display).

My Motherboard has only 1 system fan header. I want to connect 2 fans to it. Is getting one of those splitters the best way or is there another way?

So, what i've got rn is pcpartpicker.com/list/LcnDLJ

I'm having a problem with it to where it heats up my room way too much. Anyone had this before? I'm thinking about rigging up a system to exhaust the air from it out a window.

Attached: KyuRage.png (128x128, 28K)

Besides ultra SFF applications, do you think m.2 and NVMe/PCIe drives are actually worth it?

I just bought a QLC drive today, and as I'm re-installing Windows, it dawned on me that--for all the lane sharing and trade off's required to use m.2 drives, I'll probably never notice the difference.

Opinions?

I have a Coolcube Maxi case. It only has 3 slots for case fans in the back. What's the ideal way to use them? Should I just make all 3 of them exhaust fans?

Attached: 600046300-3_gr.jpg (800x800, 118K)

im not this guy but does anybody have a general guide on where to allocate fans in most important places

Apparently it has some ghosting issues.
AHHHHHHHH. Why is this so hard?

because monitors are aids. buy any cheap 144hz monitor because the rest of the specs aren't worth it.

They're great if you never want to read the load screen text on games.

As in front/bottom intake, back/top exhaust?

Attached: kyoukosmug.png (128x118, 25K)

yea exactly the position
i would like to get a couple more fans but not sure if its better to put it on the front or top
guess i would have to run stress tests and see the temps

Do they make 1080p 144Hz IPS freesync monitors?

When mounting a rad, is it best to put the rad or the fans directly on the case? fan>rad>case or rad>fan>case?

I built a Boson 4.0 and I'm just coming short being able to emulate a PS3

I just want to play skate again and not at 15fps

I have zero clue what to look for in a 60Hz+ monitor. Currently running 2 900p 60Hz monitors, and because they're olde monitors they're quite chunky.
I'm only even considering 60+ because of the OP. I don't even know if I'd want 75Hz or greater.
I have a Ryzen 5 1400 and RX 580 8GB.
The only games I've been playing in recent times have been Dungeon Defenders, Borderlands, and GTA5.
Anyone got any advice?

Thinking about ordering pic related, but I've never built a mini itx before, any issues I should be aware of going in?

Would be using an AMD board/Ryzen 5, but have no intention of overclocking. main uses would be web browsing, video streaming, retro gaming, maybe virtual machines.

Attached: silverstone_tek_sg05w.jpg (500x375, 21K)

If you have a static pressure fan then you want a pull config since it's optimized for pulling air more efficiently through the fins of the radiator.

>choosing a video card
No problem.
>choosing a CPU
Easy.
>picking out a monitor
Pic related.

Attached: 1512457093827.jpg (2400x1467, 256K)

I wanna make a little server with my old i3 build but I only have a generic noname 400W PSU.
Is it a really bad idea to use it?

Last I saw, that Mbest ebay seller ships internationally for free or some shit.

Ask Zbrush forums.
PS runs well on my Ryzen, though. Better than it did on my 2500k.

Neat case.
I think those are 95mm?
Get a value pack of Arctic 95mm fans.
Though those could only be 80mm... in which case it isn't even worth it. 80mm don't move much air and are generally loud. Are there bottom mount fans?
If they are 80mm, I'd see about jury rigging two side fans; having them be larger than the actual holes expose is fine.

And yes, all 3 should be exhaust if you did use the rear fans.

>any issues I should be aware of going in?
Be warned that white cases turn you into a girl

>retro gaming and web browsing
Just a 2400G in a little HTPC would be fine.
See picture related in the OP even, those thin-ITX boards are even smaller. Though cases for them are sparse. Since you're transitioning into a girl, maybe you can suck off a friend to get a case 3D printed for you.

Attached: thin-ITX 2400G.jpg (1024x768, 179K)

Thanks, that's what i have rn.

pcpartpicker.com/list/F7ZYxG

How's this 1080p dude look? I call it "the gay baby."

Why is NVMe a meme? I kinda wanted one but someone here said it had shit durabilty

Only a meme if it's significantly more expensive. If it's not, then it's the somewhat decision as deciding between the Ryzen 5 2600 or 2600X.

Attached: drives.jpg (3000x4000, 950K)

>6+8+8 drives
Motherboard + two SAS controllers, I assume?

Finally about to have enough saved to build my new PC, but don't have much of an idea of what to put in there.
>State the budget & CURRENCY
3k USD
>List your uses
Gaming, streaming, media consumption
>Monitors
I only have 1080ps right now but I'd like to get 4k with the computer or shortly after building it.
I also know I'll want more storage space than your average consumer. I already have 5TB on an external and would like to move away from that being my main storage and keep it as a backup.

Attached: __hisakawa_hayate_and_hisakawa_nagi_idolmaster_cinderella_girls_starlight_stage_and_etc__4364571dbeb (1280x824, 195K)

nah

Attached: .jpg (4000x3000, 741K)

Are you ready for Navi, bros?

Attached: Screenshot_20190415-230738__01.jpg (1080x1707, 355K)

Uh, what are they doing visiting a white supremacist neo-nazi website?

WTF I love journalism now

>any issues I should be aware of going in?
>Sugo05
With this particular case, modular power supplies are actually your enemy. There is only about 200mm space inbetween power supply and optical+hdd mounting plate which with modular PSU half of that space would be taken by connectors and limit actual space for cable management.
With non-modular PSU you can put all (or at least more than half of them depending on power supply) of the cables in that area with only 24pin ATX and CPU power cable descending to your mobo.
If you plan on getting the model with bundled power supply, it is not of the quiet ones with rather annoying high pitch noise at loads close to peak (at least the 300W one). Better get the Lite version and something like Seasonic SSP-300SFG.
It also collects a lot of dust inside when not operating through top and side vents, consider getting magnet dust filters.
Overall the case is probably one of the most flexible ones.

If it worked when you were using your computer as a regular PC, it should work on the same set of parts now.

Low latency
Not complete shit colors
And that's really about it. It's really a matter of the extra features and resiliency of the brand for 1080p monitors.

Is the EVGA G2 750W still the best 750W PSU on the market?