/pcbg/ - PC Building General

>no attractive girls wearing amd clothing

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Now seems like a bad time to buy a monitor. The XB252 looks good enough, but is 240hz really justifiable for $500+? Perhaps I should get the XB241 or even KG241. Are 23" curved monitors even good for arm length gaming?

>Now seems like a bad time to buy a monitor.
Sure does. I really wanted to fall for the 240hz meme but I got trapped in the 1440/165hz cycle. I'm now waiting for the inevitable IPS 240hz panels or 1440p 240hz panels. It's not like there's much for me to upgrade to from here anyway. I can go down to 1080/240 or up to 4k/whatever but both are a bad choice.

If you have higher than 60hz and you're satisfied with your res, I'd hold out rather than be trapped.

2700x

Considering upgrading to this. It means new ram/mobo too though. My last socket got killed off fairly fast so I'm curious if this will last a little or are they about to spring a new one on us. (last one was Intel and I'm very done with them)

>intel shill made his own "gaming general" and spams benchmarks there
Did he break?

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>1000 watt PSU
why?

for 9900k OC

Weird, I've got a 650w supply with a 1080ti. Max wattage under synthetic load is around 500 watts at the wall.

And 9900K forgot to mention.

On the technical level, why would you want a true latency of 10ns or lower? Why is 10ns the benchmark?

have hyper x cloud II headphones but the pleather parts are pealing off and getting in my ears, etc. do i replace the pleather parts or buy a new headset i found on craigslist (plantronics gamecom 388). both will cost the same. plantronics are unopened.

Stick with it.
If those are your upgrade options then you have worse problems than upgrading your gpu.

What's the best version of HGST's HDD if all I want to do is store my anime, music, movies, and video games that don't require an SSD?

What's the difference between Ultrastar and Deskstar?

A 5400 rpm green or red drive. 5400 rpm is the important part because the 7200 rpm Nas drives are loud and hot.

>green or red drive

I don't think HGST sells those.

Buy new pads? Doesn't have to be from the same company, you could probably find real leather ones that fit as most aren't so different. But those sound like some chink shit anyway so maybe something new is better. Also Enterprise vs NAS
5400rpm should be fine for storage like that. I don't think there's media that would saturate a 5400rpm drive unless you're leeching/seeding a ton of anime while trying to watch a 4k 10bit encode.

That other user is suggesting that you're overpaying for storing media getting an HGST. And getting a good brand doesn't exempt you from a chance of it going bad if you're not also making backups or running raid, etc.

>Have a fuck-huge full tower case because I thought it was cool in 2013
>The CPU, RAM and motherboard are 'good' enough even though they are as old as the case
>Upgraded the GPU, Monitor and added storage as needed

I still really don't have a need to upgrade from my 3770K at 4.2GHz or the 16GB of 2400 RAM.

It's tax return season but am I really missing something obvious? It does my gaming at 1440 and chews through solidworks and autocad work, so I have never felt a burning desire to upgrade.

I thought HGST was the most reliable HDDs which is why I went for HGST?

The memes are real. Same, or even slightly better performance compared to my ML120s, at less than half the perceived noise levels. The pitch of the noise is lower too.

I use them as case fans in a 3 intake, one exhaust config.

The ML120s at full speed would start to mask music playback at normal levels from speakers, while with the Noctuas, that same music playback level completely masks the fan sound in return.

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Yes if you have a bunch of them. But if you're buying one, then you're still playing with defect lottery.
Just have a way to make backups if you can't get enough to raid 1 them.

Well we would have told you to get Arctic 120mm PWM fans, if you didn't already and you ignored us.
They're 95% the same performance and quiet for 1/3rd the cost.

But sure, those Noctuas are good. Just not worth the money. I do use Noctua for a 140mm myself since there isn't an alternative in the US really that's not just as expensive, but for 120mm there is.

>games which don't require an SSD
You should put them on an SSD anyway. It's better.
You're going to fuck yourself putting games on a 5400 RPM, but 5400 RPM is what you should have for archiving.

Is it worth buying the GTX 1600 cards at the moment? Navi seems pretty close.

>You should put them on an SSD anyway. It's better.
>You're going to fuck yourself putting games on a 5400 RPM, but 5400 RPM is what you should have for archiving.

Do you suggest I buy the SSD before the HDD then? I wanted to get an HDD because I'm sure my HDD is dying or I can't write anymore, because I've been getting hiccups whenever I've been playing games. I'm sure it's because I've hibernated so much into the HDD over the years that has caused it because it didn't start hiccuping until I woke my system up from hibernation one day.

Also, I should really put emulation games and old games such as Vampire the Masquarde Bloodlines on an SSD? I thought there wasn't change in loads since they don't up much space.

SSD are so cheap now. They're cheaper per Gb than my first 1Tb HDD was. I think people are out of their minds when they don't get get a fast 256Gb + 2Tb QLC SSD at a minimum.

>VTM on SSD
I mean compared to a 5400 RPM one which is typical for an archiving drive? I don't remember VTM load times being terribly fast on my WD Black HDD 10 years ago.

The 1660 and 1660Ti are pretty nice, but if you can wait for Navi then obviously wait for Navi.

Alright I'll get an SSD first. Can you tell me if my mobo will support an SSD though?

I know it doesn't have M.2 slots, but I need to know if an SATA SSD will work on this mobo.

My mobo is an MSI X58 Pro E.

Also, I should put emulation and VN games unto my SSD?

What's your current HDD?
My shitposting/media drive has had a chirp since day one that I can't replicate or pinpoint the cause of. Somehow taking control away from windows by using a virtual disk controller (storemi) had stopped most of it but now none of my drives ever power down and sometimes the duration they go unused is pretty lengthy. Not suggesting you should do storemi or find a virtual disk controller, just blogging.

One potential source of hiccups is a highly fragmented drive. Browsers also occasionally like to thrash the OS drive.

Normal SATA SSDs work just like a HDD. There might be some fuckery you have to do to transfer the OS over, assuming that's on the same drive as the rest of your stuff.
Hell, getting windows away from your media drive might fix the problems with it. But you should still try to make a backup.

My HDD is a 1tb Hitachi HDS721010CLA332 ATA device.

I tried to defrag my HDD but every time I try to my computer freezes up. Same as when I'm downloading games from Steam.

So I just have to get a SATA cable and hook it up to my mobo and it should be fine? I thought I need specific mobos to use SSDs.

NVMe drives need an m.2 slot on pcie lanes or a pcie slot. And Win7 """stopped support""" of them.
But you're getting a 2.5" SSD, which uses sata cables and sata bandwidth. I don't think the MB cares otherwise.

Do you have other drives? Disk check might find the bad sectors but I don't trust that shit and neither should you until you can get a backup made.

Yea I have an HDD or two from my other prebuilts I bought. I don't know how much they have on though. I'm a brainlet when it comes to backing up things though since I don't know the process of it.

I guess I could try Google Drive or something to back up stuff.

But it's good to know that SATA SSDs work on my mobo.

My monitor is finally dead. It survived several moves and six years, but its number is up. I'm looking for a replacement. I've been using an Acer h236hl. What's the closest thing to that currently manufactured? I'm not ready to move up to a higher hz.

>prebuilts
yikes

Go read the Jow Forumswiki about backups.
Best way to backup is with a unix live usb/cd and using a program to handle the backup procedure. Not on windows because it's fucking fragile and likes to dick around with drives for no reason but Macrium Reflect is useful. It's what got me through my storemi setup headaches.

What about my current HDD that has the hiccups? It is good as dead, right? I can get rid of it?

Also, once I get my SSD how much space should I partition it, because I'm going to get the 1tb 860 EVO?

Wouldn't trust the drive until you make a backup and can do health checks.
Partitions are only useful to isolate a Windows install but even then it still might try to cock up the other partitions on the drive. I don't know what Win10 needs, but I've gotten by with 60gb for Win7 if I'm on top of cleanup. Obviously go with more if you're braindead or get a smaller separate drive for windows so it's not eating bandwidth for games and killing the drive.

Also, /sqt/ will likely have more lurkers with better info on how to deal with this shit.

You should still get at least 75hz because 60hz pretty much means a 4+ year old model with poorer picture quality, thicker bezels, etc.

There is the AOC 24V2H which is really nice, but no VESA support, and it's 5ms refresh rate when 4ms or lower is ideal. But it's cheap as hell for a nice panel.
Philips 246E9QDSB is another 5ms IPS that has better color accuracy still.
Or Acer Nitro VG240Y. It's expensive right now it seems but I've seen it as low as $130. More gaming focused with anti-blur and I believe it's 4ms without the anti-blur.

It's really hard to find good 1080p monitors. Garbage buyers buy garbage products so that's what is made for that market.

Kingston

Should I get a Asus AREZ Strix Radeon RX Vega 56 OC Gaming for 344 euros?

>Radeon 7 is quiet
youtu.be/5eMl4j_lkTg?t=401

>Acer Nitro VG240Y.
Different person but I would like to go past 1080, but damn Windows is so bad at mixing resolutions or is it me. And some programs just hate going past 1080 with readable text. 1440 seem the same price as 4k I guess because nobody buys them as much now I'm not sure. Had hoped to go 1440 and 75+.

Is there a decent way to do this if your side to monitors will still be 1080.

>We
It was only you talking about "Germanic memes" you muttoid

Alright i fucked up my pc from doing a freakin bios update and im looking into getting my computer the bare minimum of utilizing my 1070 that i still got will this do?
pcpartpicker.com/list/3Nj9gw

>They're 95% the same performance and quiet for 1/3rd the cost.

I used to own Arctic fans, they were not even close to my old ML120s. The Arctics produce no static pressure so the filter on my case resulted in minimal airflow.

Not to mention that they rattled faintly at low RPMs (I could hear them while sleeping) and two of them failed within a year.

>I'm not ready to move up to a higher hz.
Higher hz is comfy and adaptive sync like freesync/gsync helps you maintain smoothness even below the monitor's refresh rate

>$110 for a pc case

I already own it, cost me like 40~60 at the time i got it

Get sapphire vega 64 nitro+ for 400 euros

Full PC i7 4770k, GTX 980, 6gb ram ddr3, 1tb hdd , 240gb ssd all for 375$
The only catch is that I have to drive all the way there and back.

Is this a good offer in 2019?

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Sounds good

>buildzoid got a PCB pic of what seems to be navi
>he believes it to be navi because only amd would be masochistic enough to make a blower style card with 300w tdp
Already I'm hoping it is a fake

That's unironically still good
Ssd?
Water coolin?
Better GPU?
Better monitor?
New psu to prevent old one from just collapsing everything?
Multi monitor setup?
One of those battery to save you from energy shortages?
NAS? HTPC? Streaming PC? RGB?

that one is 444 euros for me and it doesn't have a DVI-D connection which is something I need unless I'm willing to buy a new monitor.

>6gb ram ddr3,
What?
Also even if that's 2+4 it's a steal. Upgrade to 16gb asap and you got some that will last 3 years more easily with many AAA gaems

Intel just made their new roadmap public, "10"nm not until 2021.

Unless they changed again its after 2022 which means 2023 for a possible actually upgradeable 11th gen

what I meant was 2021 would be the earliest possible date so yes 2022-2023 seems more realistic

jesus christ the memes are real

I'm actually sad with this delay
It's not like we need 6ghz desktops with like 2c4t but it's not like that wouldn't be rad
As rad as much as it would stutter

Upgrade to a 2400g or 2600 if you can afford to

Help me get rid of this algae without having to take my water blocks apart. I really don't want to disassemble my loop. Fuck distilled water I'm just using coolant from now ons.

Look at the green string thing in my block

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Disassemble everything
Get new pipes
You done goofed
Check the copper and aluminum plates
You might be months from a water leak thru the copper parts

Fucking wait for computex
Soon it will crash in price or get us even better choices

Why do you think I may be getting a leak through the copper parts? Do you think the algae would eat away at the copper?

Think I'm just going to bite the bullet and scrub everything Fuck!

Yes scrub everything, that should save you new pipes
It's entirely possible the algae might have "closed contact" with the copper and aluminum parts
Get all the bells and whistles for the water when you are done.

Where is it?

You have to dissasemble. DONT use silver coils or aluminium together with copper/nickel. Get something like EK Cryofuel or Mayhems X1. Also do you use bysksi/barrow chinkshit?

I need a new network card, but I only have a 2.4ghz connection from my ISP.

Any ideas?

Ooh send it to /sci/ maybe you found a new form of life. ;)

Just bought some cryofuel and all of my fittings are ek. Every thing is copper in the loop except for the built in vrm block that's anodized aluminum that Asus and ek swear won't corrode. Rinsed it twice with vinegar and the string seems a lot thinner.

Once my gpu waterblock comes in I'm going to disassemble everything. Soak scrub and clean every part. Throw out my current tubes and retube everything with cryofuel and sterile water.

If I do this will this eliminate any future possibility of an algae infection?

The price crash is happening right now. 2600 and 2700 is already dirt cheap.

>Every thing is copper in the loop except for the built in vrm block that's anodized aluminum that Asus and ek swear won't corrode.
You use the formula? But it uses copper VRM waterblocks.
>Soak scrub and clean every part. Throw out my current tubes and retube everything with cryofuel and sterile water.
Dude you don't need to throw your tubes away kek, just dissasemble the CPU block and get the algae out of it. You should just get something like Mayhmes Blitz cleaning kit and be done with it.
>If I do this will this eliminate any future possibility of an algae infection?
ekwb.com/blog/antimicrobial-algae-protection/
You can use distilled water and an biologic growth inhibitor to stop it or just a premix. Link related is a good starting point. Also if I were you I would't use EKWB at all since it's low quality chinkshit.

Looking to get a 2070 and on PCpartpicker I see there is a gigabyte windforce, zotac, or MSI armor, are there any big ones I am missing or one of these that is better than the others?

Is the rtx 2070 worth it? Aiming for 1440p with an old 4770k.

Ekb is yurop tho?
Wat good brands for watercooler then? I have mild interest for GPU coolin and there's not many brands who would make custom plates for it

Hope that's a i7
It should work otherwise but consider 2080 for price performance

i want to get a 1660 ti.
what's the difference between all various edition? if i get the gigabyte or the ventus model at 290, will i be able to safely OC at the same level of the MSI "gayming" model which is rated at 1875 Hz? does it break the warranty?

whats the best b450 motherboard for a 2600?

First internet connections aren't rated by the wifi standard used but its bandwidth allocated to you, you should know this when buying the contract?
Second all wifi cards today are on the 2.4ghz standard, so any wifi card would work. You should really be connected via ethernet instead unless you cannot run the cable too your room.

If i were to choose between benq, lg, aoc, asus on 1440p IPS panel. Who is the best one?

Lads, how much do I need to save to buy a high end gaming PC that can handle everything released up to now on max settings at 100+ fps and has enough vRAM to support modded Skyrim? I've been missing out on a lot because my brick is 4+ years out of date.

Would you go for ebay parts with obvious mistakes? I found an offer that has a 200+ Euro graphics cards in the title but a 200+ Euro CPU in the description for under 100.

>Got a 500GB SSD for windows and games.
>Not a fan of water cooling because I move a lot.
>Got a 1080. Pretty much maxes everything I play at 1440@60hz
>As above, I fell for the 1440 meme but the monitor still looks very nice so why replace it.
>I forgot, I did get a new PSU a couple years ago. The fan died in the old one and it was overheat and shutdown.
>I honestly don't do the sorts of work that really requires it too often.
>I have a (stolen from work) backups that gives me about 5min to save and shutdown everything.

It's just that I really don't feel like I would really utilize the extra grunt that new ram or a new cpu would offer. I would need to replace all three; cpu, ram and mb, and I am 'losing' 35% cpu to the bleeding edge benchmarks...

But I just don't really carry all that much, even though Jow Forums likes to shit on any hardware over 12 months old.

I'm getting a 9600k and a nigabyte aorus motherboard for it. I found a Corsair Vengeance memory kit with 2x8GB, 3200MHz and "CL16" for an alright price
That particular kit is not on the board's QVL though. Does that actually matter? Last time I assembled a PC i didn't know about QVL

different models are the same except the extra stuff jammed in, so if it doesnt say it has factory oc it's still ocable manually, etc
also consider the output ports. I heard the models with extra energy pins oc better

honestly begin saving for when everything go sky high then

better safe that sorry pal
also there's someone with a mobo quality pic, might pick something from there?

MSI Tomahawk

I'd say 2000 USD is where high end starts, 2500 just to be sure. I don't know much about Skyrim but surely you want to play other, more modern games. I assume you also need a new monitor?

thank you

EKWB is made in China for a long time now. Good list:
Rads: Hardware labs, Alphacool, XSPC
CPU blocks: Heatkiller, Aquacomputer, XSPC
GPU blocks: Heatkiller, Aquacomputer, XSPc, Bitspower sometimes but better than EK, EK if none of the better brands made a block for your card
Res: Heatkiller, Singularity, Aquacomputer, or a custom manifold deal from someone like Radikult
Pump: any D5 or DDC you like; new Aquacomputer D5 Next seems like a good value given the small increase in cost over a basic D5 versus the features it has.
Fittings: whatever look/price you prefer. I use Bitspower
Fans: Noctuas, Corsair ML, Gentle Typhoon, maybe some others. I mean just look at pic related. 800 grams of copper for the full PCB by Watercool which is in any way better than EK, even fucking price.

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I don't know that I -need- a new monitor at present but it wouldn't hurt in the future. I bought a 1440p BenQ GW2765HT about a year ago. Higher resolutions can wait. The highest game on my list right now is Sekiro and I'd like for it to be able to support games for a few years down the line. My currency is CAD, so you're saying 3000 CAD, just to be sure? That seems a little excessive, that would be SLI wouldn't it? I only need 1 high end GPU, I'm currently running 770s in SLI and I could have done better at the time.

This ugly piece of shit is on the QVL, but I don't think gonna v work with my nh-d14

I've done my research on the mobo but seeing the pic wouldn't hurt

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I have a 4k display that I need a media machine for. Mostly 4k video playback, and some vidya.
Is it worth going self-built, or am I fine picking up a pre-built? idc about budget, just don't want to spend more than I need.