/pcbg/ - PC Building General

>Create a parts list
pcpartpicker.com/
>Learn how to build a PC
youtube.com/watch?v=69WFt6_dF8g

Want help?
>State the budget & CURRENCY
>List your uses e.g. Gaming, Video Editing, VM Work
>For monitors include purpose & graphics pairing
>NO Speccy or "bottleneck checkers"


Secure CPUs based on current prices
>1600/1700 - for non-gaming; worse in gaming due to slower memory latency
>R3 2200G - Light 30-60fps gaming(dGPU optional). 2400G if you want a CPU that can handle more of a GPU upgrade
>R5 2600/X - Good 60fps+ gaming & multithreaded use
>R7 2700/X - Best value high-end CPU on a non-HEDT platform
>Threadripper - HEDT
Other CPUs
>9700k - Highest gaming framerates, but still won't get 144fps in everything

RAM
>NEVER use only a single stick
>8GB - very light use, and/or if you don't mind closing programs regularly
>16GB - standard amount. If you have to ask if you need more, you don't
>CPUs benefit from fast RAM; 2800MHz+ is ideal. Check "more" for true latency formula

Graphics cards based on current pricing:
>Used cards can be had for a steal; inquire about warranty
1080p
>RX 570/580 - value.
>1660 - Slightly better perf for more demanding games on high/maxed 60fps+;
> 1660Ti / 1070 / Vega56 / 2060 - higher framerates
1440p (WQHD)
>1070Ti / Vega / 2070 - 60-120fps+ in most games on high/maxed
>Radeon VII - may be considered; needs cooler mod to run quiet
>2080Ti - higher framerates
2160p (4k)
>Radeon VII - weaker than 2080ti
>RTX 2080Ti - good, but poor value.

Other
>Consider a larger SSD (better GB/$) instead of small SSD & HDD
>M.2 is a form factor, NOT a performance standard
>Consider 75hz display minimum; 60hz are old models
>PLAN BUILD AROUND YOUR MONITOR IF GAMING
>AIOs don't change the laws of thermodynamics

rentry.co/pcbg-more

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Attached: radeon VII CPU AIO mod.jpg (576x768, 121K)

Other urls found in this thread:

pcpartpicker.com/list/Bfd4zY
youtube.com/watch?v=BcL5kbLFBdA&t=1m20s
pcpartpicker.com/list/8VCsTB
pcpartpicker.com/list/YJPtZR
youtube.com/watch?v=brPpuys8pf0
pcpartpicker.com/list/
pcpartpicker.com/list/8wZg9J
twitter.com/NSFWRedditImage

first for non-meme watercooling

Attached: 20190403_180214.jpg (2880x2160, 1.99M)

i mean, it's a meme to your wallet.

Have sex

Removed 2080 from OP because $800 for a 8Gb VRAM card is retarded.
Nvidia knows what they're doing, planning for that GPU to no longer be able to do 1440p or 4k sooner rather than later.
It's a planned obsolescence strategy which they've been doing all the way back since Fermi with the 1.5Gb 580, 3Gb 780Ti, 3.5Gb 970, etc.

For all of Radeon VII's own drawbacks, it's impossible to add more VRAM to a card while it's trivial to mod/replace the cooler while it's also cheaper. This makes the choice between the two clear.

Cute copper.

I copped a ryzen 2700 at £200 two weeksbefore they dropped to £150, ama

I'm asking you to return it.

y? it works pretty well

50 pounds when they're still worth it because Brexit hasn't happened yet.

pcpartpicker.com/list/Bfd4zY

I found a 2060 for cheap and I'm going to shove it in this build. Thoughts?

It's retarded because you won't get the perfs you paid for due to your CPU bottlenecking your build.

out of the return period, would need to be faulty and its perfectly good unfortunately. honestly if I could I would.

Might work. I'd add a SSD if I were you.

Depends very much on the game. It's not like all games have a strong connection between the CPU calculations and the fancy effects and gazillion triangles the GPU needs to calculate... and an i5 isn't THAT weak either.

It's 4C/4T that boosts at 3.4GHz tops. Well, to nuance what I've written: you're likely not to get the perfs you've paid for, but if it's a quality 2060 for really, really cheap (and with warranty), you can always buy it right now and upgrade your build later.

>It's 4C/4T that boosts at 3.4GHz tops
Yep. You shouldn't underestimate modern CPU anyhow - in an absolute sense this is still a mighty thing even if it sucks relatively speaking to a 16-32 core high-end monstrosity.

More importantly, if you got something that works with okay-ish RAM and the correct PCI bus, it's generally quite possible to feed a GPU with what it needs.

Not saying it will all be optimal, but depending on the game, the result of sticking a rather powerful GPU in a machine with a not so powerful CPU isn't THAT bad. The idea is anyhow that the GPU is not constantly using the CPU, but handling its own shit separately... as much as possible.

Oh look it's another namefag post. Let's analyze it
>$800
already lying
>8gb is not enough
kek
>because nvidia bad
Oh okay
>radeon VII good youtube.com/watch?v=BcL5kbLFBdA&t=1m20s
>cheaper with after market cooler
imagine believing that

(You)

Attached: 2080.png (1324x1348, 40K)

>4% slower now
>Fortnite and World of Tanks tested
>14% faster in 2 years
>implying games will never use 8Gb ever just like they never used over 3Gb on the 780TI. Oh wait, they did, even in 1080p now days.
nice BTFOing yourself

I am about to pull the trigger and buy this. I wanted an IPS but it seems like the really good ones are just out of my price range or have reviews that make it questionable. Good/bad choice? Alternatives?

Attached: dell.jpg (1588x625, 199K)

Sapphire doesn't have their own custom Radeon VII.
But their Vega 64 Nitro+ is extremely good.

Get something better instead.
How are you unable to find all the better and cheaper 1440 144hz IPS?
Mbest, Pixio, Acer.

>buy worse gpu now that will be slightly better in 5 years
always the same argument

Why aren't there any custom VIIs yet? The stock cooler is shit.

It's better now. 8Gb isn't enough VRAM for a $800 card. You have 0 argument to the contrary except
>b-but fortnite doesn't use 8Gb!!!
>just upgrade every year!

It's not a high volume card.

Cuz' AMD. That said, there are custom water blocks for it.

If someone dropped a 2080 ti on the floor and when you plugged it into the pc it shows green and purple artifacts on the screen. Is the card fucked?

What were the temps? Was it dropped with the cooler on? Any visible damage?

I've been looking user. The only place to find the Mbest monitors are on eBay, fuck that. Pixio monitors are out of stock everywhere. Some of the Acer ones I've seen a lot of complaints on, but I haven't really been sure which model. How is pic related?

Attached: vg271.jpg (711x549, 77K)

What kind of floor? what altitude? how is your mom? did you call her lately?

In your experience, is it worth RMAing a monitor with one dead pixel or do you usually just get something worse back?

There never will be. They literally rebranded an instinct card just so they had something for their presentation in gpu because Navi was delayed.

I've had very good luck with Acer over the years, and I really like the specs of that panel.

how is an ekwb tube and noisy d5 pump not a meme. those are the two most used branded parts in a watercooling meme.

depends on the monitor, in many cases 1 dead pixel is about as good as you can reasonably expect.

Many companies wont even accept a warranty return on a monitor with only a single dead pixel.

vram doesn't make a gpu more future proof retard, i have proof and you don't
a 780ti beats a 570 in some games too

Attached: 780ti-gtav-1080p.png (711x631, 58K)

Viewsonic XG2402. I could always return it to amazon and skirt around their warranty policy, but if this is as good as it gets then maybe it's not worth doing.

Damn thing's driving me nuts though.

at 1080p you have decent luck getting a panel without any dead pixels, if it were 4k or 1440p however you'd probably be better off keeping the one you've got.

pcpartpicker.com/list/8VCsTB

Good case to throw all this in prefferably under $100

i have 8gb of ram currently(2x4) should i get a 16gbRam and have 20GB or i should buy new ones and have 16(2x8)? i was checking and it's less expensive to buy the 16card alone than double 8

>Some of the Acer ones I've seen a lot of complaints on, but I haven't really been sure which model. How is pic related?
I have the XB271HU and it's pretty good, no real bleed issues and at the time it was the best in class. It calibrates well too and the OSD isn't a total mess to use.

See if TFTCentral or something has a real review you can use if you really, really are autistic over response times/accuracy.

tfw never had a dead pixel ever
I'd RMA it and take the chance, as autistic as it is and as time consuming as it is. I'd never be able to live with a dead pixel if I kept getting a monitor with one.

never buy a 4k monitor then, with that many pixels your bound to have a dead or stuck pixel on there somewhere.

The more pixels you have, the higher chance of their being an issue somewhere on your panel.

It wasn't a huge deal when 720p and 900p panels were popular, but with 1440p and 2160p becoming commonplace, it's far more likely to happen these days.

Though the panel quality overall is much higher for things like color accuracy, contrast ratio, response time, etc.

>Not a Tomahawk
>Not even a Mortar
>57 bucks for a 240GB SSD
>PowerColor 580 for $265
What the flying fuck user. Change that bloody board for a better AND cheaper one like the two aforementioned, and with the extra cash pick a bigger SSD AND GPU. That's 1660Ti money right there.
>pcpartpicker.com/list/YJPtZR

Case is mostly aesthetics: do you care about a side window? Do you want maximal airflow or a bit more dampening at the cost of slightly hotter thermals?

Most likely, yes.

Better
That Mbest monitor is only $300, though, if you can find it in stock.

>vram doesn't make a gpu more future proof
Imagine being this much of a history revisionist holy shit.
You're clearly trolling.
youtube.com/watch?v=brPpuys8pf0

Always put the number of DIMMs to match your chip's channels if you can. You will have worse performance otherwise. So 2x8Gb.

>pcpartpicker.com/list/8VCsTB
Why are you paying $265 for an RX580?
And $100 for a 650W PSU?
And $60 for a 250Gb ssd?
Is this Mexican pesoes?
Really bad build.
But anyway, the Meshify C or Q500L if you want something smaller.

Depends how good your board is. Dual-channel is usually best performance, and few cheap boards do quad-channel properly. Also, your fastest sticks will be throttled down to the speed of the slowest sticks. Also, don't do single channel or three sticks, it's worse.

You really are a complete idiot. OP will be fixed next thread, braindead AMD fanboy.

Is a 2080 better, equal or worse than a 1080 Ti?

Question: A Radeon VII is close to a 1080ti in performance?

AMD and Nvidia should sell GPUs without coolers and take $100 off the price.

better, but not by a TON.

Attached: 2019-05-01 21_06_08.png (1018x819, 183K)

Why the fuck would they take off $100 if they economise a $5-10 part (which furthermore economises a bunch of dollars in user support from dealing with people installing inadequate cooling or doing it wrong)?

Is it not a big deal that it only has 8GB vram while a 1080 Ti has 11GB?

>AMD and Nvidia should sell GPUs without coolers and take $100 off the price.
They really should. Every air GPU cooler is fucking loud and shit at it's job.All it does it sit in it's box taking up space until it's time for me to sell the card.
If AIO's become such a meme that they're not worthwhile on CPU's then they should still be made for GPU's because it's pretty much the best performance for noise level that you can get.

not at all, even games that allocate more than 8GB rarely if ever actually use it.


Also RTX cards have better vRAM management than previous generations.

Because I shouldn't be forced to pay an idiot tax.

He literally says how one card gets 26FPS and the other 30FPS, do you consider this future proofing?
By the time games start using more than 8gb vram vega VII and 2080 will both run at 30 FPS and will have to upgrade anyways.
So go on and recommend the vega for worse performance now and 30 fps rather than 26 in 5 years lol

Unless you can find a 1080Ti new... Well if you look at Gamers' Nexus take on it, by the time you can brag about doing the smarter choice by picking the extra 3GB of RAM, your GPU will be too shit for it to matter.

When is the next big sale event? July 4th? Cinco de Mayo?

>image quality doesn't matter!
>please pay $100 per 1Gb of VRAM in 2019
Lol nice job not actually watching the video and being 5 years behind on how games utilize VRAM, lying manipulative shills.

Worse.

It is, but Nvidia employees are trying to trick you into buying a card which which has planned obsolescence built in.

Attached: chrome_2019-05-01_21-03-57.jpg (2929x1648, 959K)

>It is
lmao imagine being THIS retarded.

>lying manipulative shills
>Posts a 4K benchmark picture for a 960
>Lol nice job not actually watching the video
Surely you're baiting. Or false-flagging. Anyway, here's my (You).

>by the time you can brag about doing the smarter choice by picking the extra 3GB of RAM, your GPU will be too shit for it to matter.
This is how I feel as a person who has 64GB of RAM. It's pretty accurate all around.

Just run a couple of VMs, a few 3D renderers and justify it. Tho' I hope you didn't buy it when the prices were high...

Bro buy 16gb vega and keep it until games use more than that in 2050.
Imagine all the 2080 tards running at 3 fps instead of 5 lol
Nvidia btfo

The part you're missing is that while a 960 is hardly enough to utilize 4Gb, except for better texture quality, the 1080ti is actually powerful enough to utilize 11Gb and provide a benefit.
Nvidia themselves showed this years ago when they launched the 1080Ti. Then 2 years later they launch a GPU that's the same power but less VRAM LOL

Thank you guys but none of these worked. I just get a black screen any time the 2060 is installed. I'll send it back for another, cheaper, model and then if that doesn't work I'll try another AMD card. If THAT doesn't work I'll assume I rekt my mobo somehow and starting looking at replacing it.

If using your iGPU doesn't work, it's 100% already confirmed your motherboard.

Fuuuuck. What do you mean using? I can use it just fine with the 2060 out. That's what I'm posting with. Once I plug it in though I get nothing.

I know you worship AdoredTV, but too bad. Idiotic AMD fanboys like yourself never learn.

I mean, did you follow the post that said plug it in WHILE using the iGPU to check to see if it shows up at all in device manager?

Cause if it aint showing up there, it means the PCIe slot probably aint working.

You're part of the idiot gamer market regardless if you're an idiot gamer or not.

So yes, fan+heatsink is the cheaper and only option; they don't want to confront you with the actual cost of fans/heatsinks or meme RGB water transfer coolers + idiot gamers.

I gave it a shot but even with the cord plugged into the iGPU, if the 2060 is plugged in I just get a black screen. Not even the bios splash. I plugged in my old 390, the dead one that craps out after a few minutes, and it at least boots up properly.

it would be MORE expensive for them to do that as it would require a totally revamped QC and validation process.

With the current production, you test cards as they're completed.

With your method they'd need to get some custom rig set up to test cards with adequate cooling, or put an air cooler on, just to remove it again after it's been through QC.

Just fucking dumb, and needlessly complicates the production line. You'd be wasting a fuck-ton of money to do this, and that money wasted would be passed on to you, and you'd end up saving probably no money at all compared to a normal card, nowhere near $100 anyway. Maybe $10? And at that point, why bother? Anyone interested in custom GPU cooling is perfectly capable of removing the stock heatsink fan/shroud.


tldr; you're an idiot.

I mean, you've gone through TWO GPUs now, I kinda doubt it's the GPU at this point.

Yeah same desu but I don't know what's left for me to try besides further process of elimination. At least the pajeets at Amazon refund the card no questions ask so I can keep trying until I'm out of options.

I noticed the EVGA 1080ti Black 11GB on their website is available for $610. Is this a better value than the 2080 XC Ultra 8GB $640 with today's promotion? Both are B-stock by the way.
My other option is a used 1080ti off Ebay, but I'm wary of those.

that only works a few times, repeated returns will get you fucked on that.

>Tho' I hope you didn't buy it when the prices were high...
Nah, I was lucky enough to hop on before all the price increases. Which means I'm running Skylake of all things.

That's Gamers Nexus, troll.

What's the best true 2-slot 2080ti? Reference?

>that pic
Should i watercool my gpu?

Attached: pc.webm (960x544, 2.7M)

Does it matter what kind of thermal paste I get or are they all the same?

Wait hold on I was unaware you could manually input prices, already had both storages so they zero out, the 580 was used, and the psu was from midweek madness.Updated prices are like this
pcpartpicker.com/list/

Theres a $10 difference between the Rog Strix and the Tomahawk, any difference or should i just cancel and save?
As for the case id prefer airlfow but side panel is asthetically pleasing

>Should i watercool my gpu?
Depends on what you're going for. I did it and it's the best and worst decision I ever made.

I'm autistic about noise levels to the point that I used to keep my PC in an entirely different room to avoid it. Watercooling my GPU allowed me to keep my PC next to me again but it reminded me that CPU coolers and HDD's are too loud (this is why it's the worst choice).

As long as you can cool the VRM, it's okay. Use Argus monitor to control fan curves on the pump/rad/vrm fans and you'll be fine. In the games I play my temps went from 45-50c during 50% render scale to 40c @ 100% render scale. Your GPU will be incredibly cool and unless you hard OC will likely never rise about 50-60c.

Worth it if you're overclocking or care about noise.

yeah

Attached: 20190307_180050.jpg (2880x2160, 1.67M)

>d5 noisy
wot

Also, there's probably more DDCs out in the wild

What are core temps like on full waterblock cards for VRM & memory? I use an AIO and it works for me but how much does all that added heat make a difference?

>Theres a $10 difference between the Rog Strix and the Tomahawk, any difference or should i just cancel and save?
Better VRMs. It's plainly a better board overall. Cancel m8.

>the 1080ti is actually powerful enough to utilize 11Gb
The 1080Ti already does not floor everything at 4K right now, and this without struggling for VRAM. It won't in 5 years do better at higher definitions either unless NVidia finds some way of milking some extra perf' out of it. Which, NVidia being NVidia, won't happen.

Where's the link?

Hope you put thread sealer around that.

>EK
Overpaid for the same kind of pump you can get everywhere else for like $30 cheaper

2080s aren't worth buying period. So yes, 1080Ti is a better buy.

The reference isn't bad, but I'm not sure which 2-slot is better.

Depends if you want to be able to maintain it. The Founders Edition is a bitch to disassemble, with billion screws and added glue. That said, all AIB models that try to justify their price have beefier coolers. Not sure where to start if you value the size more.

well guess im retarderd
pcpartpicker.com/list/8wZg9J

>RX 580

Attached: 1552324967510.jpg (255x292, 28K)

So basically the only two things you don't already own and therefore cannot return are the CPU and mobo? Get a Tomahawk. If you want a slightly smaller form factor, get a Mortar. Return that ASUS board and see pic related.

Attached: B450 X470 VRM quality.png (1069x1833, 212K)

>kept PC in other room
explain your setup, pls

>WARNING: Some AMD A320 chipset motherboards may need a BIOS update prior to using Raven Ridge CPUs. Upgrading the BIOS may require a different CPU that is supported by older BIOS revisions.
Does this mean if I'm building from scratch, I'm fucked?

Yea but theres still an open return window on everything

Attached: f80.png (589x593, 361K)

>explain your setup, pls
Oh boy. Noise bothers me and I've always used open headphones. My house is pretty quiet so my PC noise has bugged me since the early 00's. At some point I started using USB extension cables and long DVI/HDMI cables to keep my PC in another room just so I wouldn't be bothered by the noise anymore.
I moved my PC back into my room about maybe a year or two ago and GPU cooling was starting to bug me, I tried fan curves but nothing could fix my autism over temps and noise. I looked into water cooling and my GPU was the biggest issue, bought a hybrid NZXT bracket and a H90. Eventually got a noctua fan and it is as it is now. It's quiet enough now to be in the same room as long as I'm not using an HDD and my CPU isn't OC'ed but yeah. It's fucked me over big time.

Either way, I've moved my PC back to where it was, bought a better displayport cable so I can get that distance and so far I'm back to silence in my room with the door closed. It feels pretty damn good. If you aren't completely autistic or have your PC somewhere with a decent level of ambient noise then it won't be necessary.

Attached: shitbox.jpg (2160x1440, 746K)

>noise bothers me
>gets thin aio and 212 evo
??????????????????

140mm AIO (which is fine for GPU) and the Hyper 212 is part of the problem. I could replace the stock fan with a Noctua, but the HDD noise will still piss me off.
Fan/Pump curve on the H90 are setup in a way that when in the same room it's still quieter than the stock cooler.