/mkg/ - Vomit Edition
>Buyer's template:
pastebin.com
>Where to Buy:
pastebin.com
>FAQs:
pastebin.com
>Group Buys
deskthority.net
massdrop.com
>Keyboard wiki
deskthority.net
>Keyset wiki
keypuller.com (web.archive.org
Last thread
/mkg/ - Vomit Edition
>Buyer's template:
pastebin.com
>Where to Buy:
pastebin.com
>FAQs:
pastebin.com
>Group Buys
deskthority.net
massdrop.com
>Keyboard wiki
deskthority.net
>Keyset wiki
keypuller.com (web.archive.org
Last thread
Other urls found in this thread:
lolis
kek
How would you install stabilizers for theses squares?
>How would you install stabilizers for theses squares?
this new....
It's not that hard to figure it out
Should I get koala switches?
Razer green
Zorro brown
Jixian blue
Cherry silent red
It's the best.
>making something silent even silenter
HARAM
I wouldn't call normal MX reds silent at all.
The whole point of a mech keyboard is to have some sort of audio cue for keys (as well as other non-important stuff).
I'm pretty sure that's not the point of mechanical keyboards at all, or at least not all of them. And that's beside the point.
Is Ajazz ak33 a good chink keyboard?
yes
The best chink budget mech keyboard.
The audio helps with keyboard touch typin'
Thanks, lads. I'll try this meme keyboard with that then.
not really that would be tactile feedback at around the moment of actuation, which reds don't even have
Yes. In mine the keycaps were pretty loose and you could pop a keycap off just by pushing the key down and then sliding your finger off so it would freely spring up and launch the keycap. Got some cheap chink keycaps instead (couldn't replace all keys because it has specific layout).
That's just a common shipping error desu
>Budget
~100€
>Location (continent at least)
Europe, France
>Preferred switch type
idk but like, good ones? I had some shitty brown switch. Maybe Blue/White or Red.
>Layout
ISO
>Form factor
65%
>Backlight
yeah, but i dont really care
>Previous/current keyboards
Current is a CMStorm Quick Fire I
help me please
ISO Tada68 from KBDfans
>tfw you took the 82 key pill but noone but the chinks sell it
>noone but the chinks sell it
There's one company here in Washington that sells a couple of them, as well as Cherry Corp in Germany.
Gonna be attempting my first build in a few months, would it be a good idea to order extra switches and LEDs or do I not need to worry about that?
For how little switches and especially LEDs cost, you may as well add a couple spares to your order.
What does /mkg/ think of the James donkey 916? Just bought one on impulse and not sure if I made the right decision
Thanks, and would you also recommend practicing soldering on a test board before trying on mine right away? I've seen everyone say soldering is easy and not to be scared of it but I don't want to experiment on my actual board since I don't have any experience even with wires.
Soldering on most keyboard kits is really easy. Big pads with lots of space between them, very forgiving.
You could buy some cheap electronics kit to practice on first if you really want but it's probably not necessary.
for me its HHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHIIIIIIIIIIIIIIDDDDDDDDEUUUUUUUUSSSSSS
Thanks, thomas.
What are the black switches like? Just like Cherry MX Black?
Maybe a bit lighter, but red/blue/brown/black are pretty much direct clones of their Cherry color equivalents in most cases.
>Budget
~150
>Location (continent at least)
Canada
>Preferred switch type
Dampened/silent, this is for class.
>Layout
Split ergo, preferably ortholinear. Single board though, as in one piece (like an xbow)
>Form factor
40-75%
>Backlight
Don't care
>Previous/current keyboards
Have Iris but need single board for portability.
i tried them the other day and thye feel like between reds and blacks
Atreus62.
Isn't that a kit? I'd like a prebuilt. If there are none that fit that then I'll just go with mechmarket I guess
You can get it prebuilt, but not for $150.
recommend me a japanese keyboard because im a weeb faggot and refuse to buy anything not made in Japan
hhkb
They're okay keyboards. I just don't like their looks
IBM P70 keyboards were all made in Japan
I need to replace my model m before my gf kills me. What's going to feel the closest but not be loud?
Zilents V2
>$340 CAD
oh no
can i get it with a USB connector?
just buy jap keycaps for your keyboard why does it matter what country it was assembled in?
daily reminder not to support that gergo guy. His meme is a scam
whats the most /comfy/ switch?
It's just preference m8.
anything other than browns, have had these for years and lookin for something different
P70 uses PS/2 you can just convert it to USB with an adapter
What's the best 60% keyboard?
V2 zeals, outemu sky, hako royals, royals, since T1s are kill there's still the koala, meme pandas, box clickbar switches, etc. I'm sure there are other good tactile switches out there that I'm not remembering offhand.
HHKB
Does something like silent clicky exist? A switch with muted bottom out and upstroke with only the click present.
>cops light
tfw really like how the hhkb looks without ctrl but would rather use a hhkb keyboard which did have ctrl for when i play vidya
This might be easier with a click bar type switch (kaihl box) rather than a click slider. One nice thing about this industry is that the various companies (kaihl and gateron more so than cherry for switches) have been rather open to trying new things, provided somebody can raise enough funds to pay for the tooling.
It seems doubtful that it exists, though, since the point of the switch is to make noise.
I'm after the feeling of typewriters where the noise comes from the mechanism inside rather than your fingers, if that makes any sense.
Maybe I'll buy some kailh boxes and put o rings on them.
O-rings don't work with Box switches. You can sorta silence their downstroke by putting a tiny o-ring around the center post in the slider though.
you do know that the HHKB does indeed have a ctrl key. It uses the sun layout instead of the ibm one.
Yeah, i worded that poorly. I'm used to having ctrl in the missing spot, but i think it looks a lot more aesthetic with ctrl elsewhere.
the sun layout is better anyway tho, especially for games
>imagine paying a premium to doing the manufacturer's job
The absolute state of memechanical cucks
Cherry perfected the mechanical switch in 1985 with the MX Brown.
I'm with you entirely on this.
Do you buy prebuilt PCs?
>low volume board with exotic parts is more expensive than mass produced, bog standard board
building a pc is equivalent to buying a hotswappable keyboard.
Yes that's my point.
And what do you gain from said exotic parts compared to a normal keyboard that's 1/10 the price?
It sounded like he was talking more about buying a case, plate, pcb, and soldering on the LEDs/switches which is considerably more work than a hotswappable board.
Some people have specific shit they want in a board; whether it's some meme switch lubed how they like, or modified stabilizers, QMK compatibility or whatever. At least it ain't like other expensive hobbies where kilobucks can rack up like it's nothing.
Better feel on the fingers (which is the entire point of these keyboards), the ability to swap to different switches as desired, or in the case of custom layout/ergonomic boards, to create a keyboard that doesn't exist otherwise.
Checked.
Community engagement leading to actual products is kinda neat, though.
Checked
checked
chcked
This is objectively and irreproachably correct.
did you make that gun in mgsv
What's the cheapest ortholinear tactile dragon dildo I can buy
If you build a planck with the "easy on the wallet" parts it's pretty cheap. The overall cost would really just come down to how much you want to spend on the specific "tactile dragon dildos" you decide on.
Alright, im about to buy some matias switches to replace the busted alps on my 50 pennies unitek k258 but i can't get it this out of my head.
Are matias really compatible with the keyboard?
they are, but they will feel different
>Budget
~100€
>loc
Germany
>switch
MX red
>layout
ANSI
>backlight
I'm not fckn gay
>previous
None
thats to be expected, but thanks!
Cooler master CK series from caseking.de
Got a Plum today too from Uncle Xi's express.
First hour on it, quite a nice type-feel
When not pressed, the keycaps feel quite loosey goosey, can wiggle them side to side a fair bit.
There's a button to change actuation depth. Didn't notice much real difference, though when I change it to the max only the cleanest centred deep hits to the spacebar register. Might be a good thing to shake my habit of bad spacebar etiquette.
Will need to alternate between it and my Leopold 980M with classic blueys a bit for my final thoughts.
As far as build quality goes, they're about as polar opposite as you can get.
Aluminum or steel plate?
Are different switches on modifiers a good meme or not? Was going to put some lighter linears on them, but what about spacebar?
If anything, you should put a heavier spring in the space key. I had to put a black spring in my space bar to even make it return properly.
>doomhammer
looks tight
What are the least shitty hotswap PCBs I can get? I heard about DZ60 but it seems the hot swap version is inferior?
> Budget
as cheap as possible!
> Location
germany
everything else doesnt matter, no backlight please
Even for the split meme?
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