/pcbg/ - PC Building General

Real question: Do you really believe all the pcpartpicker builds are real and not shills that just make it seem someone buys their shit? Sometimes the builds are exactly the same shit posted over and over again with the same kind of style of posting

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part of this is just me being bored and retooling my builds slightly and asking for criticism again. can't speak for all of them, though.

>you still have the loudest fans of any current manufacturer. That's another reason they aren't recommended.
Should I message them regarding the coil whine?

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Looking for a good sub $250 GPU. Should I get GTX 1660 or RX 590?

get vega 56 for 300 and sell 2 games for 50$

Is the vega a meme or is it just such a good bang for its buck? Reviews seem to complain about loud fans but nothing else beyond that

i just skim through and check for some sort of discussion or question among the usual shill wars

it's more power hungry and loud. you can try your hand at undervolt and overclock, it's much more boring than dangerous really, but you can mitigate both its low points with those.

its the best bang for buck atm, most reviews are talking about blower models, yes, they are shit, loud and hot, good models are sapphire pulse and red dragon, they both are 300$
its basically 2060 for 300$, pic related is blower model, which tends to throttle and run at lower clocks
after undervolt, which u can do with one button click in drivers, you wont have any problems with temps/noise
yes, its abit more power hungry than 2060, but its like 20-30w at most, which will be like 50c more per month, assuming 4h/day gayming

Attached: vega.png (630x346, 30K)

need a good $500-600 laptop I can use for work and also maybe play some tame shit like Hearthstone

most importantly:

>15.6
>doesn't shit the bed when I run VS Code

that's about it

>windows unironically costs 100+ bucks
haha what. I'm going to build my own pc for the first time and didn't even realize this. No wonder the grey market for these is so big. Even if you try buying shady activation keys for like €15-20 you can afford getting scammed 5 times and still have it be worth it

buy R3 2200G now or wait for 3000 series?

It's good if you're don't mind spending 10-20 minutes overclocking/downclocking/overvolting/downvolting etc. depending on what youre looking for. The Vega 56 (with a good cooler not blower) is good value for money especially if you like to do other things than just game.

Buy a good B450 Motherboard with confirmed Zen2 support and a 200GE. You can flip the 200GE later or use it for something else.

Should I buy a 1x8gb stick now and buy another one next year or stick to 2x4?

wait 14 days(until computex) and then decide
its not worth building any new system atm IMHO

what the fuck, save a little bit longer and get 2x8

get any laptop with at least an Intel i3 and 8 gigs of RAM and you should be OK
an SSD would be great too, but on that price range you better get it as it is and change the HDD to an SSD later

this, but you can go for if you can't wait anymore, but I think the most basic 3000 without integrated graphics will outperform the 2200G easily

Do you have a GPU right now?

don't do that, there's a chance the next stick you buy won't work together
pairs of RAM are tested for this

Hmm but you can undervolt and bios flash nvidia cards too tho

The best cost-per-frame cards there all get at least 50fps, so what's the problem?

Fake valueless internet points are the bane of modern society.
People feel empty with the shit economy and lack of avenues for true fulfillment in life, and all they have going for them is arbitrary anonymous internet popularity.

Coil whine isn't covered by warranty lol.

>loud fans
that's on the reference blower, you mong.
Pulse and Red devil are quiet. Only uses 15-20% more power than the 2060 and is a lot cheaper. It is the best for the money.

Want to upgrade from my GTX 970, have an i7-6700k and want to go for 144hz if possible

Is GTX 1070 ti the best value that I should go for/will that do what I need it to?
If not, what are some options? Highest I'll go is $600, but even then I'd prefer to stay lower

That's irrelevant, the point is that it's cheaper. Also added benefit is that the Vega 56 if you want to you can make it reach RTX 2070 performance.

And die in a month

no, it's my first pc build and i want to have all the parts by november so yeah i think i can definetly wait

Why do we even recommend the 2060 if the Vega 56 offers similar levels of performance at a lower price point?

Because envidiots.

Yes, Vega 56 or 1070Ti, whichever is cheaper for a non-blower card pretty much.
Used 1080Ti is another option. It's about 35% better for 50-100% more money used.

Nvidia shills are rabid and want others to experience the pain they suffer of having their screens stutter because both aren't the same framerate. They don't care that AMD is better, they want people to join their club of idiots.
It's difficult enough to appease them somewhat by having it recommended at least for 1080p.
There's probably some places where Vega is expensive, too. Dunno. Like Southeast Asia or something.

Definitely wait before you buy those parts then. Also, NAVI will be out so GPU prices will change.

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Probably comes down to brand power. Red bad, green good, so if green gives something that is approximately the same as red at approximately the same price (but slightly more), then I get green.

do you reckon ssd/hdd prices will change until then?

I doubt they are going to change dramatically, you should wait for sale on those since you're not in a hurry.

alright man thanks, good night

>only 8 colors in the image
>jpg instead of png
how do you breath?

AMD is better assuming price is the same, though. 8 years later, and Nvidia still supports less of a feature set than AMD's 8 year old GPUs did, and has more bugs.
It's all just marketing.

SSDs probably hit their lowest point.
HDDs, who cares except for datacenters?

I found a 21:9 monitor 2560x1080 29'' really cheap. It's a meme monitor? (I'm coming from a 21'' 1080p monitor)

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it already looked like shit i pulled it from another thread you fucking bitch nigger.

>Asus A320M-K
is it good?

>ultrashort
yikes

>saving shitty jpegs
Almost as bad as the above

>A320
>good
what the hell is this question. Why would the lowest end chipset have a "good" board?

pcpartpicker.com/product/sykwrH/gskill-memory-f43200c16d16gtzb
pcpartpicker.com/product/qGqbt6/gskill-memory-f43200c16d16gvgb

Is the difference between these purely cosmetic?

i mean good for the chipset/price

>yikes

hahaha xDDD upvoted

I think so. Also what are you installing them on?

pcpartpicker.com/list/ZbFD9J

This is my planned build, RAM may change obviously

>Asus A320M-K
if it's like pcpartpicker.com/list/ZbFD9J
Why would you pay $130 for 3200CL16-18-18?
You can get that for like $80 wtf.
If you're going to pay that much it should be for B-die.

Swap the cooler for Scythe Ninja 5 and value pack of Arctic 120mm PWM fans. You need a lot more fans for your case than it comes with, anyway.

Radeon VII is loud, get a rtx 2080 instead.

>Why would you pay $130 for 3200CL16-18-18?
That's why I was going to swap that for wither the G.Skill Trident Z or Ripjaws V

I don't really care much about noise. Also, isn't AMD better for an epic loonix gamer like me?

>That's why I was going to swap that for wither the G.Skill Trident Z or Ripjaws V
Just get whatever is cheapest 3200CL16/15/14, whichever is the one you want. Stop asking people to look up spec sheets for models for you when it's irrelevant shit.

I'm torn between SATA or NVME

My one stupid question: I know that NVME can get super overheated with heavy use. would using an NVME as my primary drive for gaming push it into the danger zone?

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>I don't really care much about noise
I don't believe you. I strongly advise you not to get that gpu. You will regret that.

>would using an NVME as my primary drive for gaming push it into the danger zone?
Absolutely not. Those overheated risks are mostly overblown and only apply to heavy, heavy, continuous transfers of huge amounts of data, far more than any game, ever. NVMe is faster than SATA, but for average, everyday use and gaming the difference is negligible.

Yes, AMD is way better for Linux.

Another question, will you be doing any Overclocking? (Honestly with XFR and PBO you don't really have to)

It's not that loud.
It's cheaper than 2080. It has better drivers than the 2080.

When NVMe throttles, it's still the same speed as a fast SATA SSD.
Also it's the same performance before throttling. So no matter what you do, you're wasting money being a brainless gaymer.

thanks! I suppose I will stick with SATA for now unless I can catch a NVME drive super cheap

Probably not. In all honesty, I don't know anything about overclocking, as I've never done it.

>Kingston ValueRAM 1x8gb 2400 17-17-17
Is it good

No.

why not

The Intel 660p drive is really cheap, but is QLC. Basically means that it slows down a bunch once it gets really full (>~80%) and doesn't have great sustained write speeds, but that's not important for gaming. If you do get it, get at least the 1tb model.

>2400mhz
trash
>17-17-17
not good
>1x8gb
just no

No. Stop asking dumb questions you already know the answer to.

Bad recommendation when someone can get a better 3D TLC drive for the same exactly price.

He will regret that purchase and you know it. You guys are malicious.

>Bad recommendation when someone can get a better 3D TLC drive for the same exactly price.
Which one? I haven't seen one as cheap as the 660p when it goes on sale

Been having a few anons who bought it coming here and asking what you were talking about and saying they're really happy with it.
I agree it's a little too loud, but at least it's a more pleasant pitch than the new FE cards.

SU800 2Tb for $178 is cheaper than I've seen the 660p 2Tb.
Also $80 for 1Tb vs $90 for the 660p.
You clearly didn't look at all because SU800 has gone on sale like that for the 1tb model like dozens of times now.

fury x is still in top ten? i didn't think that they were that powerful!

>You clearly didn't look at all
You got me. Haven't looked too hard at all.

Wait a sec, the SU800 isn't NVMe which is why I recommended the 660p.

Sup Jow Forums.
I live in Mexico, so prices in PcPP might be useless, made the lists to show the components.

Current computer from late 2013
pcpartpicker.com/list/ksHPZR

Planned (in progress)
pcpartpicker.com/list/WT6G9J

As you can see, I'm reusing the GPU, PSU, and monitor. GPU and Monitor might change at a later date, but I'm not in a hurry on those.
Yes, I know it is a FreeSync monitor, and I use an nvidia card, but it was damn cheap when I got it, and just like it for having multiple editor windows.
The mobo, from what I've seen in reviews, uses SIC634 power stages, ISL69138 controller and ISL6617A doubler, which is similar gigabyte cards in the green par of this comparison here My budget is around 1500-1750 USD, and my uses involve very light gaming (usually flavor of the month MMOs, simulators like Cities skylines), programming, multiple VMs, and hobbyist audio production.
I need Thunderbolt 3 for the audio interfaces, and the UAD accelerators. I've been halving that work between my old pc, and a dell xps 15 9550. but my workflow is a mess.
So, I require both lots of threads and lots of cores, due to plugins. And the lowest latency possible.

So, can you tell me if I'm going right in this build? I need case recommendations, focused on silence, and as small as possible, if possible. no gaudy leds or colors.
Mention possible improvements on storage and memory (I have other 4TB HDDs, but those might go into a NAS)

... who gives a shit whether it's NVMe or not? The boot times, load times, and other real world performance metrics are the same or BETTER because of the 660p's issues with shitting the bed when it's over 80% full.

Would definitely consider this build instead.

pcpartpicker.com/list/LfhCHh

I know that Motherboard pick might be counterintuitive but you're going to get better boosts on that.

Also if you're not overclocking you wont need that big of a cooler so i downgraded a bit.

RAM uses Samsung B Die so it can probably clock higher than 3200.

From earlier:
>thanks! I suppose I will stick with SATA for now unless I can catch a NVME drive super cheap
I then told him about the 660p and warned him of the issue you said. That's literally the entire catalyst for this discussion. Please read the thread before commenting shit. And, if you read, you will also see I had already said that SATA vs NVMe is virtually no difference for regular use.

I'm honestly a bit of a brainlet, so I don't really see what makes the ram or motherboard better. Also, I don't see why I should change to that cooler if it is only 9 cents cheaper.

Are you sure that's B-die? It's CL15, not CL14. More likely binned AFR or something.
>u12s instead of ninja 5
???

The user has no clue what he's talking about and you're going to make him even more confused.
NVMe is not necessarily faster than SATA. Case in point: the 660p which is often slower.

The cas latency is lower on that RAM. But not enough so to be worth $50 more than the cheapest 3200CL16.

Why are you pairing a 9900k with your GTX 970?
The only point in getting that CPU is generally if you're also getting a 2080Ti which would be likely your entire budget on GPU alone.
Even with gaming not being your main thing, it's super bad performance for the money. It's about 110-118% the performance of the 2700X, depending on what you're measuring, but 200% the cost.

I doubt the 860 Evo is the best value SSD for you unless Samsung just loves Mexico for some reason and gives them a special deal. It's super overpriced in the US.

>Also, I don't see why I should change to that cooler if it is only 9 cents cheaper

59.90$ vs 89.95$

>so I don't really see what makes the ram or motherboard better

I'd love to make a great big post and explain in detail but to keep it short, the motherboard i select has better quality components.

>NVMe is not necessarily faster than SATA. Case in point: the 660p which is often slower.
It is faster, at least until the cache runs out which only happens during sustained writes.

Oh, I already changed the cooler, but didn't post the updated list.
pcpartpicker.com/product/dZ3H99/scythe-ninja-5-430-cfm-cpu-cooler-scnj-5000

I will consider the motherboard though. Thank you.

Ninja 5 has terrible fans and it's the same price as the NHU12 not to mention RAM compatibility. He's also not overclocking so getting a quieter cooler is more important.

Although now that I think about it, I may swap the cooler too, since I'm a bitch and huge coolers make me nervous. Noctua also seems like a trusted brand that probably has better build quality.

PCPartPicker says that the Noctua is much louder than the Ninja though.

>It is faster, at least until the cache runs out which only happens during sustained writes.
No. It's fucking slower when the drive is nearly full, too.
Stop trying to argue. You're just wrong. It's not the first case of an NVMe drive being slower than a SATA one, too. The controller standard doesn't make it magically faster.
It's also HALF the TBW of the SU800.

>Ninja 5 has terrible fans
No shit, that's why you replace them with Arctic ones.
That case only comes with 2 mediocre fans so he needs more anyway.

That's because Noctua doesn't make bullshit claims.

>No. It's fucking slower when the drive is nearly full, too. Stop trying to argue. You're just wrong. It's not the first case of an NVMe drive being slower than a SATA one, too. The controller standard doesn't make it magically faster. It's also HALF the TBW of the SU800.
Ok.

I got a 2600x and I play on 1440p 144hz, is CL14 3000mhz ram at 14-16-14-28 timings fine or should I consider upgrading

>Why are you pairing a 9900k with your GTX 970?
Because I have it atm. Like I said, might update later, not a priority.

>It's about 110-118% the performance of the 2700X, depending on what you're measuring, but 200% the cost.
Due to kikery, AMD doesn't have Thunderbolt, so I have to keep on Intel.
a 2700X is way better price/performance ratio, even with "bad" IPC, but I use Thunderbolt with an Universal Audio Apollo Quad on my dell, and that is bottlenecking me a lot.

>doubt the 860 evo is best value
I doubt it too. what are good m.2 SSDs series?

Also, some case recommendations pls.

You're fine.

>AMD doesn't have Thunderbolt
Could have waited a few weeks. It's on Zen2.
Technically, it should work on Ryzen now, but I'm not aware of any thunderbolt 3 PCIe card that actually works on current Ryzen boards.

>I doubt it too. what are good m.2 SSDs series?
MX500 is same performance and generally around 20% cheaper.
WD Blue and SU800 aren't quite as fast but even more cheap.

>case
Thermaltake G3.

I think the x399 Designare has thunderbolt.

Thunderbolt 3 is open source now but not allowed on Ryzen boards until USB 4.0 is a thing.

future me says i saw a video and its a bit of a hack so forget about it

Is buying used graphics cards a meme

Kind of. It is good if you know what you should be paying and you have to avoid the techbabbys selling 5 year old cards for insane prices on ebay.