Mechanical Keyboard Thread - /mkg/

maybe if you clean it, it'll work you filthy bitch

what about binding?

Usually if a switch is more wobbly it'll be less prone to binding. I haven't found the switches to bind at all when I had a matias board years ago.

You seriously going to bother buying a new board just because the LEDs are fucked? If you do, don't get Logitech again, their QC is garbage
I have a board on the way with quiet clicks. Supposedly the chattering issues are easy to fix on them by cleaning the contacts. I'll report back once I get the board.

Not in a hurry to. it still works fine lightning issues aside, and at the absolute worst I always keep a backup keyboard/mouse around in case anything happens. That said I do need to get a new mouse soon anyways, so it's more of a "while Im already out that way" sort of thing.

yes i have read a bit about that, but i had my doubts. thanks user(s)

That said, any good brands for mechanical keyboards? Used Logitech mostly and havent had any issues before this current one. Preferably something that won't cost me an arm and a leg(I'll say..idk, $100, give or take a bit budget-wise?)

You could try filling out the the buyer's template you can find in the OP, that'd make it easier to find some options for you

Yeah mb, let's see.

>Budget
About $100 or so. Not picky, but don't want it to cost an arm and a leg either.
>Location
Northeast USA
>Switch type
Er..clicky I guess. Call me autistic, I just like the clicky noises when I type.
>Layout
Whatever the default is I guess? Not sure what the difference is.
>Form Factor
100%
>Backlight
Optional
>Previous/Current
Similar enough I guess. Usually stuck with Logitech, but Im open to others.

Probably not especially helpful, but there it is.

>Not sure what the difference is.
There's the ANSI layout with the long bar enter and the ISO layout with the upside down L-shaped enter, some other keys are also affected due to this difference.

Ah, alright. ANSI it is then.

You could get a unicomp. Buckling springs aren't for everyone but they're damn satisfying and have a solid sound as long as you don't mind pinging. You could also try your luck finding a vintage model M which can have better build quality but lack winkeys and neccesitate a PS/2 port or active converter and might need some maintenance.
Otherwise, I think a Ducky One is pretty good for the price. You can get one with MX Blues for $90 or maybe less.
There's also this mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=3526
You can get it with Kailh box whites which definitely have better tactility and sound compared to MX blues

Thanks, I'll check those out when I have a bit more time. Thanks for the help.

I'm planning on building a kbd75, just had a few questions regarding diy kits in general and this specific project

1. Do I need to buy cherry stabilizers or are the OEM ones fine? Keep in mind I have pretty much no problem with the ducky stabs, but I'm unsure of how high quality they are considered to be.
2. How important is it to declip and lube the stabs, again considering that I'm perfectly content with the ducky stabs.
3. Will I need to mess with QMK or any other software even if I don't want to change the default key mappings?
4. Can I use these 1.8mm LEDs kbdfans.cn/products/f1-8mm-led-100pcs with box whites?

>1. Do I need to buy cherry stabilizers or are the OEM ones fine? Keep in mind I have pretty much no problem with the ducky stabs, but I'm unsure of how high quality they are considered to be.
Cherry PCB-mount or GMK screw-in are better and will cause less rattle, but if you mod the stock ones they will probably be fine.
>2. How important is it to declip and lube the stabs, again considering that I'm perfectly content with the ducky stabs.
It improves the sound, no arguing with that. It's very easy and worth the effort.
>3. Will I need to mess with QMK or any other software even if I don't want to change the default key mappings?
No.
>4. Can I use these 1.8mm LEDs kbdfans.cn/products/f1-8mm-led-100pcs with box whites?
No. Box switches are missing the two holes that this kind of LED needs.

Thank you for the info! Are cherry screw ins decent, or should I stick to pcb mount unless it's GMK?
>Box switches are missing the two holes that this kind of LED needs.
Was just asking because when I google searched I saw this old.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/70u9x0/smd_leds_on_through_hole_for_kailh_box_switches/ which says that they are compatible, but the LEDs have to go under the switches.
Now that you've said they're not compatible I'm a little confused about whether or not I should buy them.

Have you noticed that these little cuck keyboards are starting to appear on desks across the US more now? I think that it is a sign that there are more single people typing on their own than typing with a family. How can we stop the cuck keyboard phenomenon?

Attached: niu40.jpg (5312x2988, 1.25M)

daily reminder to not buy a tada
>why?
because their caps are rectangular [narrow] not squire or buy a tada and key caps

also the lightning is useless because caps aren't double shot so you can't see shit and it only blinds you so again +shekels for better caps

otherwise coming from the infamous k120
typing on gateron red is like butter

daily reminder to not buy a tada
>why?
because their caps are rectangular [narrow] not square or buy a tada and key caps
also the lightning is useless because caps aren't double shot so you can't see shit and it only blinds you so again +shekels for better caps

>because their caps are rectangular [narrow] not square or buy a tada and key caps
the fuck are you even trying to say here? Their keycaps are standard size, I'm typing on a tada with custom keycaps rn

Wait do people actually want a backlit keyboard? I thought that was something only geriatrics would prescribe.

>buying logishit, when they make the worst mechs

If it's using Romer-G switches, you're double fucked and you have no hope. Buy something that isn't shit, then we'll help you.

1. Buy Cherry Screw-In stabilizers, they're the best right now. Then look up the clip, lube, and bandage mod. At the minimum, they need to be clipped.
2. Clipping and lubing removes rattle, sounds better, and feels better. Just try it and you'll see it's worth it.
3. Learn QMK anyway, there's a Youtube series on it that makes it easy. I also think Wei actually has an online remapper for his keyboards anyway.
4. They should be safe, just make sure to solder in the LEDs first and make sure they're flush to the PCB.

>because their caps are rectangular [narrow] not square

What the flying fuck are you talking about retard? They're dye-sub Cherry profile. You clearly shouldn't be giving advice if you don't even know what the keycap profiles are. Stick to your G4ymer LED shit, retard.

Daily reminder to get better taste in backlighting and develop skinnier fingers

Anybody here try XDA keycaps? How do they compare to SA and DSA?

>Their keycaps are standard size
nope
width is 11mm
height is 14mm

>They're dye-sub
nope

daily reminder to kys

Stop shitting up every thread. EnjoyPBT caps are dye-sub and Cherry profile, which is a standard size but different from the rubber domes you're used to. Doubleshot keycaps aren't even necessarily backlit

Where to cop?

Attached: ALF 62.jpg (1920x1081, 443K)

That doesn't look like a Happy Fapping Keyboard at all, it's like the artist doesn't even browse exhentai

Used them for a few month, they're nicer then DSA imo. Much lower profile as well and uniformity is awesome.

Attached: 2019-01-20-03.04.38-1278x690(2).jpg (1278x690, 185K)

is there any cheap and good mechanical numpad around?

Nice play-doh keeb.

Why do all of you guys always use a QWERTY layout? Don't you know it's inefficient? Why aren't you using a Dvorak layout? You aren't a pleb, are you?

got my tex ada keycap set from kbdfans
the scoop feels nice, pretty similar to the homing keys on dsa (the blanks in pic are regular dsa)
the engraving feels pretty deep
though yeah, still a little overpriced overall

Attached: texada3.jpg (2000x1333, 128K)

Are there mechanicals that are also ergonomic?

What you can say about Durgod k310?

What is that shit?

Why not? So we can be an inbred retard snowflake who wants to be special, like you are?

Just checked my box jades and it looks like you're right, apologies. I didn't think the round through-hole LEDs would fit, but there you go.

I really want to like them but am worried about the legends wearing off in time. Report back when that happens.

yeah I'm curious too, I'm hoping the deep engraving will help with the wear
github.com/diimdeep/awesome-split-keyboards
this page has most of the ergo split boards I know of summed up
pricing/availability depends on where you live can go from about a $100 to $500+

why do we hate mx silvers again

Actuate too easily, more expensive than reds for no good reason pther than "muh gayming switch"

Thank you for the confirmation

Redpill me on the miamis. Ass drop have them for 45.

meme

Keyboard experiments of a buddy.

Lovingly referred to as the dildokeeb

Who coppping the Tokyo 60 v3?
I remember wanting to buy the first 2 rounds but I think I am over the HHKB style even though I have never used it.

i love my ducky mini with mx reds

I recently repurposed an apple m0110 to fit cherry stabs and keys. Custom plate and all that.

No reason for me to buy another hhkb layout board. Lubed gat yellows are hella nice tho.

what are the least noisy switches available? i want to get a keyboard to use on train rides

What are the absolute worst switches you have typed on?
>Cherry Clears: Scratchy, heavy and overly tactile

membranes

"cherry mx silent" are probably pretty quiet but I've never cared about keyboard noise so I just use what's comfy (mx greens)

I'm just waiting for the PBT dyesub versions to be honest.

Not him but Dvorak is alot more comfy to type on due to far less movement from the home row required to type the most commonly used words

>alot
Stopped reading there.

Sorry about that! These things tend to happen alot when im typing on the inferior qwerty layout

Alright that's pretty good user.

Attached: 1519731835255.jpg (238x284, 30K)

Just can't be assed to put in the effort when I can already type 100ish wpm comfortably with qwerty. I could just as easily ask you why you're not using a curved columnar stagger board like a dactyl or kinesis advantage. Physical layout makes more difference than key layout after all.

Any good chiclet/flat boards?

the thinkpad ones

the apple ones

brown

Wanting to build a hotswappable kb is there anything wrong with getting this pcb for it? 1upkeyboards.com/shop/controllers/1up-rgb-pcb-hse/

Also what plate should I get for it? I'll probably be cheaping out and getting one of those cheap plastic cases for it.

Attached: image0.jpg (403x403, 55K)

I use colemak but it's kind of a pain with playing games tbqh

What should I put in the empty area /mkg/

Attached: Screenshot 2019-05-24 at 23.00.37.png (1908x1766, 508K)

White PCB, Black dithered Stallman head and the copypasta

Also come on user, read ai03s guide and ditch the promicro.

And don't trust the autorouter.

Attached: JPEG_20190430_034640.jpg (4032x3024, 1.05M)

>barely any travel
>noisy as fuck for no good reason
>shits itself over a single speck of dust
>flat keycaps being inherently uncomfortable and increasing mistypes
lmao no

waiting on my rk61 and pcb keycaps so i decided to try and make a custom one in pla. i've also been looking at other novelty caps on ali but the etched ones i like are abs, is it considered plebeian to mix plastics?

Attached: 967892456724683678.jpg (2028x986, 211K)

I soldered an atmega chip once and it was awful
The teensy/promicro is way less work, but this board being staggered prevents me to put it over other switches. Also the routing is by hand, I'll probably do it again 1000 times before ordering

Attached: silencio.jpg (2400x1600, 520K)

What do you do to your images that make them all look like 3D blender renders, both here and on Jow Forums?

My black FC660C Type-S arrived in the mail and it's great! I have to take several pictures of it now and post them like Filco chan.

Attached: _MG_2047.jpg (1500x1000, 384K)

>Budget
€100
>Location (continent at least)
EU
>Preferred switch type
Red
>Layout
ANSI
>Form factor
80 or 100
>Backlight
Whatever
>Previous/current keyboards
Some chink shit

Also would prefer if it doesn't have the "gaymer" aesthetic

Ducky One
here you go
alternate.nl/Ducky/One-DKON1608-gaming-toetsenbord/html/product/1345614?lk=22679

it's the lighting

I bought box dark yellow. Did I mess up?

Is there a 75% / TKL hotswap PCB?

Not if you like decently smooth heavy-ass linears with very little wobble.

sounds good. Thanks mate

thanks

What are /mkg/'s thoughts on this set
kbdfans.cn/collections/keycaps/products/caribbean-cherry-profile-pbt-dye-sub-keycaps

Attached: 2_588f23ee-c0dc-4a63-96ec-ddf1a9e2c629_1800x1800.jpg (1080x1080, 109K)

Am I doing this right?

Attached: IMG_20190524_112501.jpg (4032x3024, 3.3M)

Going to Japan. Any good keyboards that I should get while I’m there?