My old mouse died

So I ordered components for it and learned how to solder today. It took me an hour to do, but for under $5 in components my $60 mouse is as good as new. I'm a bit worried about the pads on one of the connection points though, it kind of browned instead of tinning like the rest of the connections that I made. Is that something that I should worry about? I think it happened because I had a lot of trouble getting solder out from in between contact points and I heated areas that I shouldn't have.
I used solder with flux and wicked away extra with some soldering wick that my friend had lying around.

Instill me with soldering wisdom, technology brothers.

Attached: proxy.duckduckgo.com.jpg (1500x1129, 124K)

Other urls found in this thread:

learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-guide-excellent-soldering
amazon.com/Tabiger-Solder-Desoldering-Sucker-Remover/dp/B0777LMVTT/
amazon.com/dp/B002MJMXD4/
youtu.be/VxMV6wGS3NY?t=2m50s
youtube.com/watch?v=AqvHogekDI4
twitter.com/AnonBabble

When i started soldering and doing DIY projects, I spent no less than $50 in startup costs.
A new mouse costs less than that.

get one of these

a shit mouse cost less than that

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found the brainlet

But get anything better than the one in your pic

redpill me on this solder sucker, is it better than gootwick? Louis Rossmann shills gootwick all the time and I figure if he's been in business for as long as he has, he's doing something right.

Model O
59$

if you are about to spend 10$ to do some soldering, it's ok, but spending the same amount as a brand new top spec mouse is retarded

learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-guide-excellent-soldering

i fucking hate gootwick. sucker is so much easier, you just heat up the solder point and release the fucker and it's all gone in an instant.
no fiddling with the fucking gootwick, less chance of overheating and fucking shit up.

it's only retarded because you're retarded and cant comprehend that he can use it for other stuff aswell

Neat, I was really worried about overheating and damaging the board. I'll look into it. What happens if you accidentally melt the tip of the sucker?
To clarify, my friend let me borrow his equipment (used at his place), I just bought components for the mouse.

I don't recommend this kind, these things tend to fall apart after you take them apart like 2-3 times to clean them and these kind need to be cleaned pretty regularly to clear blockages.

amazon.com/Tabiger-Solder-Desoldering-Sucker-Remover/dp/B0777LMVTT/
I use one like this and its a lot better. You twist the nose/cap like 90 degrees and it pops off and you can clean it.

just hold the sucker and iron steady and a tiny bit apart and ur fine, you can even touch them but for less than a second (like half a second) and it wont have time to melt. if you cant do that then remove the iron and then put the sucker on the node and hit the button.

lmao we used the same ones for years at my school no problems. just fucking shake the shit out of it without taking it apart.

>redpill me on this solder sucker, is it better than gootwick?
solder suckers are a pain in the ass and not efficient. wicks are far more efficient and take less time to do the same job.
> less chance of overheating and fucking shit up
if it's overheating then your iron is too hot. fucking shit up? that'd be down to the user's inexperience, not the wick.
ITT: misleading information from idiots.

>solder suckers are a pain in the ass and not efficient.
nope
>wicks are far more efficient and take less time to do the same job.
nope

>ITT: misleading information from idiots.
right back at ya.

suckers are fucking god-send and takes half a fucking second to remove ALL the solder from a node

amazon.com/dp/B002MJMXD4/
This one (although 5x the price) says that it won't burn and has a flexible nozzle on the end. Would it be worth it? (not for a one-off, but if one was looking into making it a hobby)
I had a lot of trouble getting solder out from inside the ring pads on the pcb (pic related)
would wick be better for that scenario?

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that's overkill as fuck. we had the cheaper ones as i posted pic of before, without issues.

If you burned the board a little bit while soldering it should still be fine, but don't let it turn black. It's possible to burn the small lines inside the pcb when you're soldering but as long as you're mindful of it you shouldn't have any problems.
I fixed 2 guitar hero controllers the other week by replacing 2 capacitors, which cost me 5 cents in total, and saved like $100 in controllers. It feels nice

The mouse is working great so far, only time will tell if I did a decent enough job or not. I tried to have as little contact with the board and let the solder and flux do all the work.
Nice to hear that you were able to repair your controllers, it's a feeling that I've never really had before and it's nice.

>amazon.com/dp/B002MJMXD4/
>This one (although 5x the price) says that it won't burn and has a flexible nozzle on the end. Would it be worth it? (not for a one-off, but if one was looking into making it a hobby)
I've heard those are quite nice but solder suckers all pretty much work the same. The only thing you need to worry about is whether its comfortable in your hand and fairly easy to clean. Avoid any solder sucker that has plastic+metal parts connected together. They will fall apart once the threads on the plastic part get stripped out. If you get a plastic one get one that is all plastic or if you get a metal one make sure its all metal.

this guy has good technique and really nice looking joints and shows the gootwick
youtu.be/VxMV6wGS3NY?t=2m50s

this vid also shows good soldering and shows the sucker
youtube.com/watch?v=AqvHogekDI4

never had these issues thru my school years using those and they were heavily used... just dont buy chinkshit.

>$60 mouse
why

You'd be better off asking on /diy/, no one here has any practical skills.
But good job user - soldering is good fun.
If you want to practice further there's a lot of DIY electronics kits on AliExpress such as pic related which you can get for a couple of dollars.

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>redpill me on this solder sucker, is it better than gootwick?

Wick is for SMD, sucker is for through-hole, it's that simple. Louis doesn't work with TH so he shills wick.

Professionally for through-hole you use a desoldering gun/station but not everyone wants to spend the money on one. The cheap plastic suckers are good enough, but slow and tedious if you want to remove something like a DIP40 IC. There are solutions in the price range between the cheap sucker and a proper desoldering station like the iron attachment pictured, there's also these cheap chinese iron+handpump hybrids (ZD-211).

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