Do you replace your mouse when it gets that annoying double-click issue or do you try to fix it?

Do you replace your mouse when it gets that annoying double-click issue or do you try to fix it?

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I live near a computer recycling store. Used mice are $1 each and I have 30 sitting in a box disassembled, washed, dried, and reassembled. I have enough to use for the rest of my life.

Things with moving parts have to be replaced regularly because material fatigue is a thing.

Except my MX 518. It just werks.

I keep using it with the problem
You get to used to it at some point

I buy a new 10 dollar very basic Logitech one that will last me for 10 more years like the previous one did. A dollar per year is not that bad I guess

Depends on how cheap the mouse is. If you know how to solder then you can most likely fix it yourself. To replace that piece of metal shouldn't require any soldering, but it's a PAIN to get positioned correctly.

Depends on how easy the tension springs are to replace. I only tried it once, but the spring was buried beneath so much plastic bullshit that replacing it wasn't really feasible.

>try to fix
No use as the plastic is usually molded into one piece

>MX 518
Going to get the updated version desu

Not with Logitech mice (from my experience).

I've got an original MX Revolution that still works fine. The scroll wheel is stuck in infinite scroll mode, but the buttons still have a strong click.
What kind of shitty mouse ever has its click springs wear out? I know thats an issue with ChiCom Razer shit, but thats to be expected. Gamers deserve to be scammed.

I've tried bending that tension piece back into shape. More trouble than it's worth. In the end I just desoldered a switch from a cheap mouse

I fix it if the mouse cost over $20 and look 90% new. But I would never fix a mouse for a friend or family member, it is a pain in the ass.

I've replaced either the metal spring or the whole switch. That used to be on my IE3.0's, but only 2 switches have really broken, the rest was just for fun to have a different feel.
On my other mice I've never had a mouse doubleclick, even though I used to play osu using mouse clicks a lot back then.
No omron or huano switch I've seen is just one molded piece.
It's really just bad luck. It's mostly the same omron switches everywhere with a few exceptions, unless in really cheap office mouses.

>using a mouse

You can fix it with firmware. Until it gets too much to fudge with values. Just replace when the components get too old. New mouse when the PCB gets too burnt.

plebs

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I've never had it happen

while i hate asus

this is a great fucking design and usability feature

everyone needs to do this.

>proprietary battery
-_-

wtf is so proprietary about 3.7v lithium

what is it what did they do?
teach me

The switches aren't soldered to the board, they just slot into a socket so you can replace them.

>desoldering 3 pins is hard
nigga, some mouses are literally harder to open up than it is to replace the fucking switch on the pcb
snsv is fucking dumb to create yet another point where bouncing can and will occur

This. I fucking despise mice that are difficult to take apart. Even worse when you have to remove the smooth plastic sliders covering the screws. Fuck logitech with this gay shit

I'm using the same MX310 for literally almost 2 decades now and all I had to do is
>change the cable 4 times (or just cut out the broken part near the mouse or when I'm lazy bunch the broken part up inside the mouse which works too until I fix it correctly)
>clean the contacts of the switches maybe 3 times
All the logos are rubbed off, it's shiny where it was matte when new, the silver buttons have grey spots where the paint got rubbed off, the actual plastic distance "feet" where the scooting pads USED TO BE (years ago) inside are completely polished off the bottom of the mouse, you can't even see them anymore but even with that decrease in distance to the surface under it, it's still working perfectly.

Once you found the perfect mouse for you you don't want anything else and just keep maintaining it.

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nigger i desolder all the time
people in general dont, and spend 70 usd on a new mouse instead

this is a fucking waste.


its no excuse that mice are fucked up to take apart with fucking ribbon cables and shit that breaks when you look at it wrong
fuck logitech.

I wouldn't fuck around and try to replace the metal spring. Everything I've read and seen about that makes it seem frustrating and fiddly enough that I just want to ignore it entirely.

What I do is I take the casing off of the mouse, soak a q-tip in rubbing alcohol, and press it on to the button on the plastic switch box a bunch.

Get it soaked with rubbing alcohol all the way through, while actively clicking the button to make sure it cleans whatever is fucking with the connection, let it dry for a while (longer if your rubbing alcohol is less than 90% concentration), reassemble, and then it's usually good to go for a long while.

It's worked out pretty well for me so far.

I have the first gladius where the screws are under the teflon feet. They've fixed this on the newer models. The mouse itself is not really comfy in my opinion, there's better shapes so it's in the drawer.
just solder a new switch boi

All the older mice I have, the ones with an actual ball in them never get that double click problem. It is only the newer ones that get it. In fact I have an IBM PS/2 ball mouse hooked up with my G600 right now because the G600 is slowly falling apart but the mouse literally older than most of this website and is of legal drinking age is still going like a god damn tank.

>or do you try to fix it?

I just swap out the part that is fucking up. You can get a butt load of momentary switches for pennies.

>No use as the plastic is usually molded into one piece
Find the seam and pop it open.

When you pop one open, just snap off the clasps so that it can never go together again. Then install some N50 magnets to close it with. Make sure there's a thin layer of plastic between the magnets so they don't crack together when closing. A square of ziplock bag will work for that. From then on you can just pop it open without wrenching it open and breaking it more. You can also solder on a socket for the momentary switch like you see in and from then on all you need to do is pop it up, pop the old switch out, and pop in the new switch. POP POP POP!

>cord
>broken part near the mouse
Take apart a standard office pen the kind you click the button on the end to extend/retract the strip. Take out the brass spring and put it around the mouse cord so that part of the spring is inside the mouse and most of the spring is outside the mouse. Enjoy your new mouse cord that will no longer break of fray at that spot ever again.

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I try to fix it. 100% success rate so far.

Tried replacing the omron switch, but I held the solder inon for too long so this gay metal plate deformed.
Never again.

I experimented with a spring but usually it got a bit too awkward and stiff and therefore felt wrong enough for me to accept having to fix or replace the cable every couple years. It's no biggy anyways since I love to tinker around with stuff.
But great to see others having fun with maintaining their stuff! Really appreciate your post.

Fucking retarded
It a 10 cent repair user. Unsolder and re solder.

Yeah, most springs are pretty stuff, which is why a pen spring is normally the answer. They seem to be universally the same and very light weight.

I fixed mine. Huge pain in the ass since I didn't have a good pair of tweezers to put the thing on your pic back in. It would just fire itself into oblivion.

It's been months since I fixed it. No more double clicks. I'm just gonna solder in new switches the next time it happens though.

I can easily replace microswitches, but my MX310 has served me for over a decade with no problems so far

niggers don't know about technical vaseline

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I use mice that don't get this issue even after years of heavy use.
Stop being poor.

oh ok

But with the Q-Tip and Rubbing alcohol, I don't need to spend any money. A switch might be pretty cheap, but I don't have any lying around. And delivery is expensive.

this

>technical vaseline
Enlighten us, then.

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get the wired version then

>permotasty

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It's not a double click issue. It's an issue with the switch being momentarily unable to detect that it's being clicked which results in it sending a double click. That's why it also breaks clicking and dragging.
I could replace the switch if the mouse was worth anything to me.

Expensive gayman's mouse develop this issue so it's not about the price.

It's called dielectric grease.

It's all a matter of your mouse having omron switches or not. And those switches do feel nice, when they're working.

>complaining about a mouse you broke is hard to fix

lmao fuck this dumb ass board

Fix it.
Already fixed double clicking on my mouse about 5 times in the past 7 something years.
Eventually I'll get tired of fixing it, but the fixes tend to last a long time, its just different switches that end up double clicking.

I've never had that's happen I would do like writes, it's where I got the only mouse I've ever had.

Which switches doesn't have this problem and what brand or model of mouse are they used in?

pretty much the same here, i didn't know why it wasn't working but i figured i might as well try something and spraying some oil into the switch did the trick. maybe had to do it 3 times in 7 years now.

>Do you replace your mouse when it gets that annoying double-click issue or do you try to fix it?
I try to fix it and then fail and break the mouse and have to get a new one anyway.

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I'd just swap the buttons and have the annoyance on he right click which is rarely used.

you fill the switches with that grease and they will last for years