/mkg/ Mechanical Keyboards General — Chordite Edition

The best one-handed keyboard never made is the Chordite.
Outside of a few hobbyist prototypes, the design has yet to become a commercial product.

Last thread:

Attached: 6852AB85-90B3-4533-940A-45FAC2E83C50.gif (659x923, 8K)

Other urls found in this thread:

deskthority.net/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=11344
youtu.be/8za_4g5zCOM?t=54
twitter.com/NSFWRedditGif

I am a thread too late, but I just wanted to say that the whole idea of adding a solenoid to a mechanical keyboard sounds like a really great idea.
I just think that you should use linear switches with your solenoid, as your video shows that you're actually fighting the solenoid noise with the keyboard noise if you use clicky keys.

a red space bar is a shit

So long as you don't flip your spacebar upside down, then it's OK.
I find upside down spacebar people also buy artisan key caps.
Neither is desirable.

i meant the switch , im thinking i should have ordered green

Just solder in a black

This seems strange, but I would like to see it in action. Reminds me of those cyberpunk keyboards or something in a mecha anime.

Attached: 20190608_142120.jpg (4032x2268, 2.54M)

Leopold FC750R PD with browns as first mechanical keyboard. Worth It?

>browns
Good board though.

>Needing a spaceBAR

Attached: rBrg7PU.jpg (4032x3024, 1.63M)

Is there a design for a 100% layout but it's 2 PCBs? One for TKL and one for numberpad, that can be connected together in a single case with one microcontroller or made modular/split like pic related? Basically, making a full size PCB is too expensive but if you make it modular like this, maybe you have a better chance of selling the rest of the batch since TKL and numpads are more in demand.

Attached: w81tQ0t.jpg (1641x881, 273K)

The Chordite seems like such an obvious idea.

Attached: 5992D301-5FCC-425A-A378-CEDF6D66DEA3.jpg (2732x1908, 3.46M)

is this the Mechanical Keyboards General?

Attached: 1554353317855.jpg (4032x3024, 1.18M)

I want those blue fucking caps

There's a Space Cadet-inspired SA set on KBDfans right the fuck now for 100 bucks.
Probably your best bet if you want something MX-compatible, either that or coughing up the money for a set of SA Dasher/Dancer.

Need a new keyboard. Cant decide over an IBM model M space saver keyboard or a white cherry red. leopold ten key less with black sa caps.

Help me please.

Get the SSK.

I think I asked something similar recently and didn't get a response; where the fuck do you get ISO capsets from? bonus points for space/galaxy theme

Unicomp or original?

I didn't think unicomp make SSKs. Either way the older IBM made boards are better built.

Candykeys has some ISO-DE stuff as does mykeyboard.eu, but it's a total crap shoot whether they have anything in stock or not. Mechboards may have some ISO-UK stuff.

>dat Return key

Unicomp doesn't make SSKs, if you do want one you'd have to make it yourself

Attached: Unicomp SSK.jpg (3264x1836, 1.55M)

wiat, how did you do the double f buttons?

Attached: 1556789387789.gif (350x464, 301K)

is this a modded Chyron?

Love my IBM SSK

Attached: New Keyboard.jpg (2656x1494, 1.29M)

No.

deskthority.net/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=11344

>buying membrane keyboards
Get a new model F

hello, question; will white keycaps turn turn gross and yellow after a few years of use?

depends on what they're made out of
ABS will
PBT and POM wont

Can you use nail polish or acetone to remove the prints on the keycaps? specifically on the ducky pbt ones, they fade faster than corsairs, fucking chink made shit

>Ducky PBT caps
>fading
What the fuck, aren't those doubleshot or dyesub?

Ducky's PBT keycaps are doubleshot and shouldn't fade. I know their special edition varmilo/akko boards are dye-sub PBT, but those shouldn't fade either

You can try acetone, though the best option would be to just dye the whole keycap.

Yes, I just never cared much for recycling the same OP text.

What language are you looking for on those ISO caps?

I just started buying ansi keyboards to make getting keycaps easier.

Help me choose /mkg/.
I can't decide if I should get gray or black and side-printed or blank keycaps for to replace my worn out ducky keycaps.

blank dolch masterrace

is Durgod any good? or should I just get an IKBC?

I am SUCH a Glorious PC gaming race fanboy, their GMMK is UNBEATABLE!

I know, right? I have the original full-size ANSI and then got the full-size ISO immediately when it came out.

I love being able to have a platform for switching out as many different switch types as desired. Why do people bother buying dedicated single-switch keyboards anymore? It's not worth it.

One of my arrow keys register single strokes just fine but not fast strokes, what do?

cheers, at least it's a start

I know for a fact that no one makes capsets for my exact layout because we're irrelevant, so looking for any of ET, FI/SV or Scandi; I'll take about anything ISO and QWERTY though (current keyboards came respectively in FI/SV and DE-QZERTY). I've kind of resigned myself to assuming that I'll just need to get a blank set

unfortunately ANSI is quite literally short a key for my layout, and the long enter tends to trigger me quite intensely

I have taken the blank keys approach once with cheap DSA-profile keycaps from China.
I used a white permanent marker to write my own DE-ISO legends. It sucks, but it's the easiest solution.
I wait for an SA keycap set on Drop (formerly Massdrop) that offers ISO and Norde keycap sets and buy those. The average price is 250 EUR.

*shatters wrist to put thumb on the space key*

are holy pandas overrated?

they're one of the most tactile switches I've tried, tho I still haven't tested out v2 zeals or box royals

>shatters wrist to put thumb on the space
You literally don't have to move your hand to press it.
You do know you have opposable thumbs, right?
But I agree that splits are the true ergonomic keyboards.

Going to get myself a New Iris when it's ready.

Attached: Screenshot_20190610-173108_1_1.png (599x545, 427K)

reminder: the white back plate on the ducky shine 7 and one2 scratches easily
the slightest touch from the wire keycap puller would scratch the back plate

currently thinking of buying a used Filco Majestouch 2 for 76 USD, is that even a decent price?
keyboard looks very clean and well taken care of

Attached: keyglove.png (616x425, 356K)

fucking weebs

I still used my 20 years old dome keyboard.

I still use my 30 year old membrane keyboard

Attached: 20170408_144201.jpg (4128x2322, 1.91M)

is this a bad time to buy a hhkb pro 2?

Yes, get some PBT caps for it though.

Attached: 1552616798721.jpg (2048x1361, 780K)

I need a replacement cable for my stock hhkb2. What is the correct economical and subtle choice?

Either whatever cheap chink cable, or one of these magnetic ones. If you want to get overcharged for a simple USB cable you could get one of those people that sleeve them to make you one.

Attached: 31DPLWnOr4L.jpg (492x500, 12K)

reeee why does the shitty thread keep dying

Attached: 1558197631936.jpg (3960x2970, 2.26M)

because people keep posting tranny keyboards

Attached: niu40.jpg (5312x2988, 1.25M)

Relax, I'll probably have an all-metal manly orange beast to post about soon. Slowly amassing parts for it currently, just put in an order at Digikey the other day for my Mill-Max 7305s.

My membrane keyboard was made Jun 15 2000, and has been used nearly every day since then. It still looks and feels like new.

Why would I ever switch back to a mechanical (which was a Model M that now sits in the closet)?

Attached: cordlessdesktoppro.jpg (350x225, 11K)

I want that unironically.

I just wanna stress: I've used this keyboard for NINTEEN YEARS.

Anyone who thinks mechanicals are the only way to go are probably really young (

>please reply to my lazy bait
>it's right here guys

i guess its up to you mostly i find that its about feeling and production value. if you feel that membrane is the way to go then good on you man, cheaper and easily replaceable if not the right fit and yes i know this is bait but i would like to know more

Attached: IMG_3145.jpg (199x205, 33K)

>said the youngster

Come back after you grow some pubes.

>cheaper
>i know this i bait
>etc
I paid like $130 for it in 2000. The mouse died in a year or two. But the keyboard (that I'm typing on right now) will probably make it to 2050 or more.

Say that to my face fucker not online and see what happens.

Attached: Information warfare.jpg (582x360, 63K)

You're face will get fucked up beyond all recognition.

I meant "your"
My model M will end your life.

good on you bud, im guessing thats about average price for back then
also not sure if trying to flex but ok

Have fun growing up, pube.

Shittiest bait this general has seen in a while. Pathetic.

Don't posture, dumbass. Making shit up won't get you anywhere.

swITChing CaSess doSsnT work EiTher.

>>Have fun growing up, pube.
shit i guess i got baited sorry overlord you have a high power level than me and i couldn't detect it til to late, im a disgrace

Attached: TVGCe1c.png (450x357, 163K)

Something similar already exists.

youtu.be/8za_4g5zCOM?t=54

Oh, there's two of you pathetic low-lifes? Just feel with it: You're an afterthought.

and I mean that in no way to inspire you to kill yourself. (but you know... the world might be better...)

So I notice /mkg/ had quite a few posts, and I was happy for a moment before I realised its just bad shitposting.

ID on this keyboard?

Attached: JCbYQnGcjqQXn5BrxoCRPD-1200-80.jpg (1200x675, 118K)

Whitefox.

Looks good, the ISO version seems hard to find though.
Also dumb, unrelated question, is there any keycap profile with a bigger base than standard to reduce the gap between keys?

Attached: 8QWOcoV.jpg (4032x3024, 1.19M)

>is there any keycap profile with a bigger base than standard to reduce the gap between keys?
Tai hao cubic is the only thing that comes to mind, but I'm not sure if they're really any closer together than standard cherry caps.