So, I made this today, it was my first time soldering, what do you think?

The pins have a long and a short side
You did right by soldering the short end to the thing, but the long end should be on the flat side of the board, where there are no other components
That way it will sit flush in a breadboard and you can access the button/s on it

Attached: D5055D3F-F026-4398-97D3-72725FA0A71B.png (657x527, 15K)

But the short ends literally are on the flush side.

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The way it currently sits on a table is preferrable, tho. You can plug in stuff at the pins and the PCB will stay flat on the surface of the table. Almost all the boards I have look like OPs, but I must I say I prefer your variant.

For a first time it's already something user
But I have to urge you to invest in a soldering/rework station if you're going to do any serious project, there are a lot of chink ones that are inexpensive and better than simple soldering iron
And for the love of God start to use Isopropyl alcohol before your soldering for cleaning it and to use PicRel for some good clean solder joints

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Also check this

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Pic related is what i mean
What you did will work but this way you get more clearance for the usb port and can use buttons if there are any
Its no biggie if you want to re-do it just get some copper braids for desoldering

All my boards are pic related, guess im just used on using breadboards

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is correct

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good job, now learn to weld and you can be a real man

>You can plug in stuff at the pins
That's annoying and you'd need to use female jumper wires for everything. The point of these is to plug them into a breadboard.

you need to invest in a soldering station so you could regulate the temperature.
also nice butterfly. what kind of a butterfly is that? danaus plexipus?

wire wrapping is the better way, anywho

i think i have the same dinner plates as you

If you didn't use RoHS solder on that RoHS assembly then it's no longer RoHS in case you needed it to be that. And that plate is contaminated with lead.

That's a lot of bad solder joints, but you can only improve by soldering so keep at it.

>male headers on the smd pcb side
kys

You made the classic mistake of heating the solder rather than heating the pad/component and using them to flow the solder around each other so you get a good joint.

>apply soldering iron to place where component lead and pad meet
>after a second or two, feed the solder at the point where the component lead, pad and soldering iron tip meet
>if you heated the pad/lead correctly, the solder should melt around them and make a nice joint

It'll still work probably, but the joints will be prone to failure.

>too much solder
fuck you

two of them next to each other is a potential short circuit

Get a proper soldering station. Your iron looks like shitty 30W piece.

You also need SnPb solder, RoHS compliant solder is a pain in the ass to work with, it's much easier to get good joints with SnPb solder

Also get some solder wick and flux while you are at it.

the last 2 on the right? no, both are same diameter

No, 1st and 3rd from the right that both say too much solder. Place them next to each other and it is likely a short.

>Soldering on plate
Enjoy your lead poisoning.
>That quality of joints.
Watch some good videos from PACE (youtube.com/watch?v=vIT4ra6Mo0s)
Or this youtube.com/watch?v=-CzICOTxV-U

your solder looks like it might be dogshit, or you didn't let it flow long enough for it to settle in around the solder pads properly
using a little bit of flux and reheating/reflowing would do the trick

You can get a hako clone, the kind where the nibs are interchangeable but the element isn't for under 30$, if you solder more then once every 5 years its well worth getting that opposed to plug in style soldering irons, granted plug in styles are great for high thermal mass soldering, but not ideal for pcb.

on the topic of flux, no matter what you get, you probably want to get a blunt syringe too, I put my flux which is a thick paste in one and squeeze it out of there onto what needs to get flux, shit works great.

just as a tip, what you want for soldering long lines of pins is a knife tip, it makes the job so much easier.

Not bad for your first time but it's no drag solder.

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I see your level. Here are couple tips for you:
>1. Get flux. Simple rosin would do. You may get liquid no-clean stuff. Or Amtech paste flux you can buy from store.rossmanngroup.com, don't delay, buy today. Don't use plumbing flux, since it is too corrosive.
>2. Get leaded solder. RoHS is one of the biggest scams on this planet. People were using lead for ages. Sure, it causes health issue, but only if you ingest it. As long as you don't lick boards you're fine. 63/37 solder is ideal. 60/40 is good. 50/50 is meh, but it is better than anything lead-free. I use 50/50, since it is cheaper.
>3. Get proper soldering iron. Plated "no burn" tips are pretty challenging for beginners. It doesn't matter if you have $5 soldering iron, or $100 station, those tips require some skill. Get a simple soldering iron with copper tip. Nothing trains better how to solder, than simple copper tip. In case you fuck up copper tip (flux burns and leaves black shit), you just knock it off with file, while on "no burn" tip you should be careful with that, since file will remove coating and ruin tip, so you either use finest sand paper, or dry toilet paper.
>4. Get yourself a vise, so you can stick your dick in the vice.
youtube.com/watch?v=vIT4ra6Mo0s&list=PL926EC0F1F93C1837
Check this video.

that stuff in your webm is surprisingly easy to do. you just need two things: a proper tip and a very potent flux. i use a brown colored liquid flux and a tip in the pic . even if you mess up just make another sweep and you are done.

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>that stuff in your webm is surprisingly easy to do
It's way easier than trying to solder each pin individually at that pitch. It's a simple matter of a little flux and just not using too much solder which would cause bridges. Surface tension does the rest.

nobody said 3rd
place the right 2 next to each other, or the most right one 2000 times and it won't short
the last 2 on the right have the same diameter, the 3rd one does not and wasn't mentioned so it is irrelevant. Don't try to add more shit into this.

are you autistic?
>nobody said 3rd
i said 3rd
because you said this: so you disagreed that there is too much solder on any of them.
then you said : "last 2 on the right"?
But "too much solder" are #1 and #3 specifically, not "last two on the right".
that's why i said #1 and #3 next to each other would be a short.

Reading this post is so sad because you're genuinely helpful, yet brainwashed into thinking you have to use meme arrows lest anyone think you're from reddit

>yet brainwashed into thinking you have to use meme arrows lest anyone think you're from reddit
That is autism I got from BBS and forums.
It is impossible to fix. Here is a better version.

1. Get flux. Simple rosin would do. You may get liquid no-clean stuff. Or Amtech paste flux you can buy from store.rossmanngroup.com, don't delay, buy today. Don't use plumbing flux, since it is too corrosive.
2. Get leaded solder. RoHS is one of the biggest scams on this planet. People were using lead for ages. Sure, it causes health issue, but only if you ingest it. As long as you don't lick boards you're fine. 63/37 solder is ideal. 60/40 is good. 50/50 is meh, but it is better than anything lead-free. I use 50/50, since it is cheaper.
3. Get proper soldering iron. Plated "no burn" tips are pretty challenging for beginners. It doesn't matter if you have $5 soldering iron, or $100 station, those tips require some skill. Get a simple soldering iron with copper tip. Nothing trains better how to solder, than simple copper tip. In case you fuck up copper tip (flux burns and leaves black shit), you just knock it off with file, while on "no burn" tip you should be careful with that, since file will remove coating and ruin tip, so you either use finest sand paper, or dry toilet paper.
4. Get yourself a vise, so you can stick your dick in the vice.

>That is autism I got from BBS and forums.
Nah not really. You are thinking of quoting the message you are replying to. But on here people quote ("greentext") their own posts. I am guilty of it too. thanks for the tips though.

>So, I made this today, it was my first time soldering, what do you think?
>>inb4 0 replays
that's a lovely plate

dis dude soldering in a fuckin bowl lmao

>no flux
>shitty soldering iron
>no stand with cleaning sponge
>no temperature reading
>no third hand with light
just stop!

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>shitty soldering iron
If you can't solder with simple iron - don't solder.
>no stand with cleaning sponge
>no temperature reading
>no third hand with light
Bloat

>not knowing there are different tips for different solder jobs
just end your life.

Jow Forums used to be all about niggerrigging shit now everyone is just trying to flex with their expensive hardware and muh professional assets for X job.

If you cant even solder with a basic iron then what is even the point of getting a fancy one with temp control etc.

>expensive hardware

>expensive hardware
implying I have expansive stuff.
all that stuff is cheap and useful if you solder a lot like I do.

aside from your noob setup, I'll critique your soldering work because everyone needs to start somewhere regarding building up a tool setup but proper technique is important and a shitty setup will amplify bad technique. Hard to believe but my first setup was more ghetto than that. Anyways, all of your work has too much solder and too little, none of them clean and ideal IMO. You need to refine your technique, apparent in your soldering tip. Prime the iron, heat the pin, then feed the solder to the pin so the flux will do it's job of preventing oxidation to bind the metals together. You also need a wet sponge on the side to clean your soldering tip while working between pins and use a bent soda can for a ghetto iron stand.

So you just soldered a pendrive to a plate? Good Job faggot.