/pcbg/ - PC Building General

>Assemble a part list
pcpartpicker.com/
>How to assemble a PC
youtube.com/watch?v=69WFt6_dF8g

Want help?
>State budget & CURRENCY
>Post at least some attempt at a parts list
>List your uses, e.g. Gaming, Video Editing, VM Work
>For monitors, include purpose (e.g., photoediting, gaming) and graphics card pairing (if applicable)

CPUs based on current pricing:
>Athlon 200GE - HTPC, web browsing, bare minimum gaming (can be OC'd on most mobos with the right BIOS)
>R3 3200G - Recommended minimum 30-60fps gaming. 2400G can be found on sale for cheap.
>R5 2600 - Good 60fps+ gaming CPU with great value
>R5 3600 - Great gaming CPU
>R7 3700X - Overkill gaming CPU
>R7 1700X - Budget video editing
>R9 3900X - Professional tasks

RAM:
>Do not use a single DIMM. 2 sticks ONLY for a typical dual channel CPU
>CPUs benefit from fast RAM; 3200CL16 or Micron E-die ("AES" in code) recommended
>AMD B & X chipsets and Intel Z chipsets support XMP
>B-die is EOP, stock is limited

GPUs based on current pricing:
1080p
>RX 570/580 8GB - Can be found on sale/used for cheap. Look for 570s which are >1240MHz boost
>GTX 1660 - higher fps / more demanding games. 1660Ti can be worth it if on sale for around $230, and Vega56 at around $270
>RX 5700 - even higher FPS
1440p
>RX 5700 - standard, 75-100FPS+ in most games.
>RX 5700XT - higher fps
2160p (4K)
>RTX 2070S OC - budget option. Turing performance scales better into 4K than Navi does.
>2080Ti - best for 4K but expensive

>Navi AIB models come mid-August. 5700 non-XT blower is alright, due to low power.

General:
>PLAN YOUR BUILD AROUND YOUR MONITOR IF GAMING
>Yes, adaptive sync (free/g/sync) is important
>SSD Guide (250GB+ SATA bare minimums): i.imgur.com/79MYtoE.png
>NVMe isn't better than SATA SSD for gaming
>"Bottleneck checker" sites don't work
>Don't use Speccy
>AM4 VRMs + Monitors under "more"

more: rentry.co/pcbg-more
prev

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Other urls found in this thread:

pcpartpicker.com/list/Fcq93b
pcpartpicker.com/list/LcDhRJ
newegg.com/p/N82E16822236350?Item=9SIA5AD6DJ8028
newegg.com/p/N82E16822235011?
youtube.com/watch?v=QXtC_5QdY3o
pcpartpicker.com/list/BQnwTB
amazon.com/Seagate-Desktop-External-Drive-STGY8000400/dp/B07CQJBSQL
youtube.com/watch?v=7AbNeht4tAE
youtube.com/watch?v=ke3OnFlOUnI
youtube.com/watch?v=buPMx9dw0LU
twitter.com/NSFWRedditVideo

Avoid ASRock and Gigabyte motherboards.
Avoid Gigabyte GPUs, AVOID ALL BLOWER GPUs.
Avoid Corsair PSUs, get a EVGA G3 or a Seasonic PSU.
Avoid Seagate HDDs, get a WD Blue HDD.
Avoid Kigston SSDs, get an ADATA, Crucial or Samsung SSD.
All RAM brands are the same, only Micron, SKHynx and Samsung make RAM, everyone else just puts gayming heatsinks on them so go for speeds and ratings.

Not putting pcbg builds in the OP when they recommend a 2200G with a GPU it'll bottleneck and stutter. 4 threads isn't enough for lots of games, whereas a used RX 480 will do 60fps in most, at least with settings turned down to high.
Also the 200R case recommendation when it has no dust filters but you can get $30-$40 cases with dust filters. That case is shit.

It also should be using fucking parametric filters like so: pcpartpicker.com/list/Fcq93b THAT Is how you make a pcpp.

>no online store ships to my country
>forwarding companies WILL assblast and attempt to scam you
>I can't seize these amazing sales on some items I really want
>by the time Im back in the USA in september the sale will either be over or the items out of stock
FFFFFFFFFFUUUUUUUUUUUUUCCCKKKKKK
HOLD ME BROS

>Avoid HDDs entirely

Which is better Qlc 1tb or tlc 500gb m.2?

No.

Please help and rate:
pcpartpicker.com/list/LcDhRJ

What do you think about the motherboard? Are there any other better options?

Should I stay with the 3700x or grab the 3900x?
Should I even consider Intel if I wanna almost exclusively game (and maybe stream a little)?
Gaming at 1440p 144hz (monitor)

I thought Gigabyte has the best lineup of x570 motherboards?

asrock was the best for gen Ryzen though and adata sucks but I agree with the Seagate part

>Avoid gigabyte, asrock seasonic
You're stupid
>All RAM brands are the same, only Micron, SKHynx and Samsung make RAM, everyone else just puts gayming heatsinks on them so go for speeds and ratings
The companies also bin the IC on their own.

I meant first gen ryzen but the psu and gpu part was factual

Fuck of giganigger, nobody is going to buy your shit ass motherboards.

I had 3 seasonics fail on me. Fuck you.

>get a EVGA G3
lol no
it has far more problems than the G2
lots of people complaining that the fan stopped working and had to RMA it

Remember to report these fags for purposely misleading people. Mods on IRC said they would keep an eye out.

>Should I stay with the 3700x or grab the 3900x?
For WHAT? Pure gaming? No it's not worth it. It's at best like a 7% improvement in a small handful of games that actually use more than 8 cores or which use the extra cache, but that's only at 1080p. At 1440p generally you're not going to see a dif.
>board
Idk it looks like $200 for a $160-$170 board.
>Should I even consider intel
No, 3700X is better, gives smoother frametimes, than the 9700k. Clearly a better choice for 1440p. It'll probably be more than 5 years before a GPU comes out that's powerful enough to shift the bottleneck to the 3700X at 1440p in current games.

Yeah b350 boards were so shit that ASRock was the best of the shit. lmao.

I'm just trying to penny pinch and get a new hard drive because I've filled all mine up with stupid shit I don't want to get rid of, so on to #5

I was just going to get another WD blue, but when looking around I noticed the WD Re datacenter drive is the same fucking price, but from what I can tell at least, just flat out better.

(re)
newegg.com/p/N82E16822236350?Item=9SIA5AD6DJ8028

vs

(blue)
newegg.com/p/N82E16822235011?


Am I just missing something? Why are they the same price?


I'm probably just going to fill it with stupid shit honestly, maybe my steam blacklog who knows.

Currently I have
1 TB WD blue x2
500 GB Samsung
4 TB Seagate hybrid

Attached: download.jpg (259x194, 7K)

Buy other brands if you like cheap shit. Gigabyte actually stuffs their motherboards with expensive vrms, ICs and heatsinks.

I'm about to buy a ryzen 3600 now that is 185usd where I live. What are some good b450's whose bios actually let them work well with the new generation?

>get a WD Blue HDD
What the shit. No, WD Reds unless you're building for redundancy, which you should if you care about your porn, because even Enterprise drives will have a chance to fail.

AssRock B450m Prof4 is the best AM4 mATX board. Basically no lane limiters aside from the co-connected second M.2 and a SATA port.

You can roll the dice with MSI then dumbass.
Also
>No Asrock
>No seasonic
Do you have brain damage?

>3 seasonic fail
And you didn't rma?

If building a new pc or upgrading use r/buildapcsales for crazy deals

The top end board is excellent due to a design decision by Gigabyte (overbuilt VRM allowed them to do fanless cooling on the chipset). The rest of their lineup isn't all that dissimilar from the rest of the field.

>whose bios actually let them work well with the new generation?
>work well
I think none truly work "well". It'll work, but it's a gamble to hope the board maker is going to release a proper BIOS in the near future.
MSI had great BIOS support with Zen1/Zen+ though. They went from having the worst BIOS with Zen1 to updating into having overall the best a few months after Zen+ release.

Yeah, quality components that don't work because of buggy non-functional BIOS that ignores your inputs and does its own stupid shit.

>I'm just trying to penny pinch and get a new hard drive because I've filled all mine up with stupid shit I don't want to get rid of
burn CDs
any hard drive will faill one day or another
CD are far more durable to keep a library of data

>when they recommend a 2200G with a GPU it'll bottleneck and stutter.
In the vast majority of games, this doesn't happen.
youtube.com/watch?v=QXtC_5QdY3o
That's why the 2200G build is labeled as a budget build, retard. Quit meming or I'll take over the OP again

Additionally I just updated the description with a note about upgrading to an R5 1600. The 2200G's iGP lessens the value of the 1600 though

Furthermore I'm always open to suggestions on how to make the pcpartpicker list better, such as choosing a case with dust filters as sdefault

pcpartpicker.com/list/BQnwTB

Trying to do 1440p 100+hz gaming.

Important distinctions, I'm actually using my OCZ 600 PSU, I don't entirely remember why but I'm sure I can switch to my 650 if I need to. I already own a 1600 and the motherboard so I can just flash it when I need to even if it's SUPER SPOOKY.

I have no idea what the fuck monitor I should go for but I'm not going to skimp on it super hard since it's gonna need to at least last at least until whenever the radeon 5900 XT or whatever the hell AMD makes that can fight with Nvidia in high end pool comes out.

The 5700 XT is mostly there because it's too strong value to performance wise. Don't get me wrong, I know 1440p 100+hz is high end but until they start tossing out cards that can power 144hz 1440p or very consistent 4k 90+hz I see no reason to bother with super high end.

I'm the type of person to turn off fucking bloom, most post process, motion fuck you blur, and DoF, so a 5700 XT probably will match my needs

>Sold and Shipped by goHardDrive
That's probably why.
You're going to have a bad time when something goes tits up if you don't have an alternate place for backups.
And seriously take some time to clean your steam folder. I found 3 different installs of the same games because they kept changing the folder structure over the years.

>4tb Reds are $100
Fuck, maybe I'll do my home server build instead of waiting for RTX prices to come down.

I don't care about the majority and average.
I care that it HAPPENS. Some people's primary game is one that stutters with 4c/4t and it doesn't matter that GAMES THEY DON'T EVEN PLAY run fine.
Spending $80 on a 2200G just to upgrade to a $110 1600 is stupid. You can get the $110 1600 now for only $30 more.

2200G should ONLY be used in dGPU-less builds as 4c/4t can even bottleneck and stutter with an RX570/480 in some games. It's worth spending the extra $20 for a 2400G or $30, for a 1600, or $40 for a 2600. That's also another thing you can use parametric filters for since 2600 and 1600 prices fluctuate and sometimes the 2600 is actually cheaper.

>And seriously take some time to clean your steam folder. I found 3 different installs of the same games because they kept changing the folder structure over the years.
I have, I'm a degenerate retard who likes to archive away shitty Chinese cartoons.

5700 xt is hotter and louder than your mum's ass

What 2060 Super do I get? (prices in RMB)

Zotac Extreme Plus (3299)
Zotac Super X Gaming (3199)
Asus ROG Strix (3949)
Asus Dual Super Evo OC (3499)
Gigabyte Aorus (3799)
Gigabyte Gaming (3499)
Gigabyte Windforce (3299)
MSI Gaming X (3599)
MSI Ventus (3399)
MSI Armor (3199)
Colorful Tomahawk (3199)
Colorful Ultra (3299)
Colorful Vulcan (3699)
Gainward Glare (3399)
Gainward Wind (3099)
Galax Super (small, 2 fans) (3199)
Inno3D iChill (3199)
Inno3D Twin X2 (3199)
Maxsun Terminator (3099)

With all of them you get 3/4 years of repair warranty, or you can buy replacement warranty for a little bit. You also get 100 off in many stores.

Which one? MSI Gaming X looks good since it's high tier and not creeping into 2070 super price territory like the Aorus and especially ROG Strix. Are Zotac bad? I'm confused. What do?

Attached: 380bf22afc8a54b44688fe41f07bb5a2.jpg (236x326, 18K)

Armor

>Spending $80 on a 2200G just to upgrade to a $110 1600 is stupid
I'm not saying that, moron. I'm saying instead of buying a 2200G, the notes say to strongly consider buying a 1600 instead.

>Some people's primary game is one that stutters
That's their problem for not doing research, but the fact remains that the VAST, VAST, majority of games do not stutter with a 2200G. There's no reason to recommend something for the MAJORITY because of something that happens to the MINORITY. Anyone who's looking to play a multiplayer game competitively needs to do his due diligence

You might also want to consider an 8tb book external. I wouldn't trust them to always be online but archiving stuff to it every now and again shouldn't be an issue.
Costco had an 8tb external Seagate for $140 or so recently. I'm probably going to regret not grabbing that because I'm in dire need of consolidating my externals and having room for backups.

Whats the best bang for your buck SSD I can get in the 500-1tb range?

So is there really nothing I could buy right now? Sight, not even reliable x470?

>What 2060 Super do I get?
rx 5700

You mean this fucker?
amazon.com/Seagate-Desktop-External-Drive-STGY8000400/dp/B07CQJBSQL
$140 on amazon too


So what's the advantage/disadvantage of getting one of those stacks and filling it with internals vs one of those?


Thanks for the info btw, I'm honestly overwhelmed with all of the options and shit out there, I barely know shit about hard drives or storage.

>That's their problem for not doing research
So what you're saying is that you've made bad builds to trick people who haven't done their research into getting an inferior PC for their money?
You ignored the shit about parametric filters which has been brought up to you for a year, too, and instead make notes like "look around lol".

You can buy a b450/x470 board now and it'll work. It just won't be 100% perfect with current BIOS.

Asrock, MSI, and Gigabyte are the best HW bang for the buck ironically, board wise

Why, good value? I've heard people trash the Armor versions of cards a few times. I just read a review of the 2070 Armor though and it seemed fine.

>Avoid ASRock
NO!

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>you've made bad builds
No, you fucking moron. The builds are all great for their intended uses.

>Avoid Corsair PSUs
Why? I thought they're fine.

I want a quiet and cool card though, even if it's slightly more expensive

wait for AIB

I mean I'm waiting for the non-blower ones.

Yep. Here I thought Costco was more competitive but maybe its safer getting it from them to avoid shipping handlers throwing your package around.
The only problem with such external drives is you can't be quite sure what's in it. Could be some refurbished junk from best Korea or something that will have no issues forever. The home server builders likes "shucking" them to put the internals directly into their servers, but they're buying a few of them for redundancy and lately manufacturers have made it harder to do.

But if you don't intend to have any redundancy, and want it on all the time, you should get something smaller that you feel better about.

But the reference models of the 2060 super for example were cool and quiet, and the AIBs are cool and quiet. The reference models of the 5700 were loud and hot, so what makes you think the AIBs will be significantly cooler and quieter? They'll probably still be loud/hot compared to the Supers, even if less so.

>AsRock B450m Prof4 is the best AM4 mATX board
What about compared to the MSI B450m Mortar?

5700 generally is quiet under gaming. It's the XT that's loud since it's a higher power card.
I've only heard of it getting loud under Furmark, which is a burn test.

wat? pro4 is not the best mATX board. The Steel Legend, Mortar, and TUF PRO are all better.

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Ok, I was mostly wondering because I've heard reports from people talking about how their boards are having all sort of compantibility issues with the new chips added to the fact some of them apparently don't have enough space for the complete bios.

Do I get a Ryzen 2600 for $120 or i5 8600K for $220?
Primarily for gaming 120hz, 1080p. Already have a good air-cooler.

>so what makes you think the AIBs will be significantly cooler and quieter?
Just wow. You're immensely ignorant to even the most basic laws of thermo dynamics and coolers.
Lots of 2060s were loud as shit and the 2060S is higher power than the 2060.

>so what makes you think the AIBs will be significantly cooler and quieter?
bruh how new are you?
the reason why nvidia reference cards are quiet and cool is because they use fans and not a blower design
5700 aib will use fans instead of the blower design of the reference 5700

This is in games. It's a loud card, like it or not.

Attached: Screenshot_2019-07-18 AMD Radeon RX 5700 Review.png (500x769, 102K)

Give me one example of a loud and hot reference card magically becoming exceptionally cool and quiet (as the 2060 supers seem to be)

>comparing blower to fans
uh? am i missing something

if you are considering the 8600k for that price why no the ryzen 3600?

>nvidia powerup
>furmark
fuck off

2060 Ventus XS

because the pascal armor was dogshit but they changed it for turing

>120hz
See if your air cooler can handle the 8600k up to 5GHz, if yes and if you want to spend part of your time fiddling with overclocking shit then get it. Otherwise go for the R5 3600. Also forger the 8600k if you plan to do whatever else with your PC, be it streaming or some other shit.

I've never ran a single raid config before and I really want to try it out eventually to ease paranoia, but currently I just don't have the money for it.

so that RE WD one, would you say that's a """good""" drive? ideally id like to get one now, and maybe another down the road to act as a redundancy for it (I also need a bigger tower)

I've never had any issues with WD blues, but if it's the same money I don't see why not you know.

So many fucking versions of everything nowadays I don't fucking know what's what anymore.


side note, what's considered "Long life" for a drive? I have a 500gb I've been running in my PC since I was like 11 or so, it's currently at
Power On Count 10389 times
Power On Time 2239.3 days
with no issues

ok, thanks for the input

3600 is overpriced where I live, It's like $260 converted. If it could get more FPS than a 8600K @5GHz I'd consider it

OK, I'm wrong. Sorry guys.

Attached: Screenshot_2019-07-24 Sapphire Radeon RX Vega 56 Pulse im Test (Seite 3).png (632x379, 37K)

$40 more for a vastly better CPU sounds worth it.
>more FPS
Does not stuttering not matter?
Not to mention, you're going to pay over twice as much on electricity with a 5GHZ OC 8600k.

if you want to oc to 5ghz you are going to need a good z370 mobo anyway and with ryzen you could just use a b450 so the price gap shouldn't be that much, then again i don't know your local prices

Can you source that stuttering claim?

Even the 9700k stutters, which has 2 more cores. The 6c/6t CPUs are much worse.

You can look around and find your own sources. It's not hard. And know that it's even worse in the real world when you're running things in the background, compared to game benchmarks which are run in an unrealistic way to test only the game.

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the 3600 has better lows in some AAA games becaue of the extra threads even against the 9600k
youtube.com/watch?v=7AbNeht4tAE
youtube.com/watch?v=ke3OnFlOUnI

what’s the best cooler for 155mm max height?
cryorig h7? or are there better ones?
how does the scythe ninja 5 compare to that?
because i can buy both at the same price near me

Just put together my system and it doesnt even power up. At this point I just have motherboard, cpu, fan, and graphic card hooked up. Still no power. Could it be the motherboard or psu?

You need RAM.

>recommending the R3 3200G again
For what purpose. New APUs are simply not worth it.

AssRock understood that you're using at least a 2-slot GPU so they put a PCIe x1 slot somewhere you could use it.
>Implying anyone uses any of the other slots past the main GPU
That and lane limits at that price range is why I got the Pro4. Maybe others are more robust but I'm not overclocking.

I have ancient HDDs too, but I don't have a way to check right now and I'm not supposed to be in this thread still.
Technically, the enterprise HDD should be best as they tend to be the most expensive. You might want to see what reviews say about that seller though, seems like some are saying they're refurbished? Usually reviews for HDDs all say the same shit for every brand/variety so that's not a very helpful metric.
Go see if has an opinion. They deal with HDDs more than posters here.

The ninja 5 is going to be slightly higher than 155mm if you have to offset the front fan due to ram height.

>what’s the best cooler for 155mm max height?
fuma 2

Attached: scythe-ninja-5-10_.jpg (3840x2550, 1.54M)

>Have the money ready to buy a RTX 2060 Super
>Stop myself from doing it every day because the AiB 5700XTs are coming next month.

Goddamn it Jow Forums what should I do?

Attached: IMG_20190717_003844_145.jpg (600x600, 35K)

what if i have vengeance lpx?
do i have to adjust the height?
is the fuma 2 better than the ninja 5?

I'm having this weird issue with my PC where I can't actually shut it down or restart. I hit the shut down or restart button and my monitor turns off and the lights on my keyboard go off, but the lights inside my PC and the fans continue to spin. I have to physically press the power button to actually turn it off.

It runs fine outside of that. Is it likely just some Windows 10 bullshit?

idk I mostly copied the last OP and sales on the 2200G vary.

>AssRock understood that you're using at least a 2-slot GPU so they put a PCIe x1 slot somewhere you could use it.
That's a good point, and I wouldn't buy an mATX board without x1 above the x16 like that. But the Steel Legend also has that.
ASUS also fixed that with the TUF pro compared to the older plus.

You haven't done your research.

TUF pro is probably going to be my next board since the audio died on my pro4.

You can clip the fans down lower with low porfile RAM, but the heat pipes still extend up higher than 155 don't they?
Arctic Freezer 33 and PureRock are pretty equivalent to the H7. I see them varying which is better based on reviewer.

Le Grande Macho is 159mm.. I can't think of anything "big" under 155mm.

Uhh you could just get a 5700 now for cheaper and is generally not too loud since it's so low power?
The XT competes with the 2070S, not 2060S.

Just Wait™

And let me clarify "I hit the shut down or restart button" means I'm selecting restart and shut down from the start menu, and to actually turn it off I have to physically press the power button.

Sorry. Ram is in also

>what if i have vengeance lpx?
Then you should be totally fine. Anything but low profile ram will need the fan offset though.

Fuma 2 is better cooling performance, being dual tower, but louder. Still really quiet though compared to most air coolers.

>You can clip the fans down lower with low porfile RAM, but the heat pipes still extend up higher than 155 don't they?
They shouldn't. The manufacturer's dimensions list 155mm height.

Wrong friend. The 5700XT is $400. Same with the RTX 2060 super, and holy shit the AMD one kicks it ass.

Can you do that test with a paperclip on the PSU?

youtube.com/watch?v=buPMx9dw0LU

Adata has good NVME's. Ram is okay.

They are pretty overpriced.

fuck I feel you man

this, SX8200 Pro is a great budget SSD

This was at the beginning of the year, Pro4 was the only one in its price range that had competent lane management. Otherwise it was old boards that didn't have the second PCIe 2.0 slot or just a bunch of 1.0 slots and retarded lane restrictions.
Only issue I've had so far was due to my RAM selection. Once that was resolved I haven't had a problem.

>audio died
Become an audiofag, get a DAC

I'm saying the 5700 competes with the 2060S while costing $50 less.
Someone considering the 2060S should just buy the 5700.

I have a mini-DAC now. I couldn't find a better DAC that actually seemed worth the money while having hookups for my PC speakers. So for now I just have 2 channel.

DAC and speakers is the most fucking aggravating thing about PC set up. I was looking at a 5.1 sound bar with a rear satellite as well. I tried the audio threads on Jow Forums a few times, but wasn't helpful at all.

Eat a dick Gigabyte's X570 Elite is fucking phenomenal for $200.

if i raise the speed on the ninja 5 to match the fuma 2, would that make it better than the fuma 2?
because looking at the specs, the ninja 5 has more mass than the fuma 2

There's seemingly nothing in between headphones and floor isolating cable supports, in terms of audio knowledge.