/pcbg/ - PC Building General

High voltage at low current absolutely is dangerous. It's all about permeability.

If it wasn't for all the failure reports I might have believed it was working as intended.

NZXT H series

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3k AUD isn't 3k USD

Meshify C or Coolermaster H500 are your best options.

>all the failure reports
I haven't seen any unusual levels of failure. In fact i've seen more retards bending pins.
>High voltage at low current absolutely is dangerous
Yes, HIGH out of spec voltage is, say 1.7v would surely cause harm. Voltages specifically programmed in the firmware do not.

I'm new to PC building and while I read the op; I want to know. How strong does my soon to be computer will need to be if I intend to do high intensive shit in it like game development, testing, and 3D modeling?

Pls respond. I have no one to ask. I'm currently using a laptop which isn't enough for stuff like custom engines and unreal

I'm flexible with the budget but I want to be sure that the computer I'll make can withstand the shit I'll be doing with it. Someone please just give me some advice/responses

Anything worth upgrading or should I just wait?

The 1080 has 8 gb of memory and the CPU is an i5-8600k

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Petition to put the response on Zen 2 Voltages in the OP so we don't have people complaining every thread

techpowerup.com/257312/reports-of-ryzen-3000-high-idle-voltage-exaggerated-a-case-of-the-observer-effect

reddit.com/r/Amd/comments/cbls9g/the_final_word_on_idle_voltages_for_3rd_gen_ryzen/

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also;
>It is the whole and entire truth. Frequency requires voltage. Period. The processors require certain voltages to achieve certain clockspeeds. Require. There is a fused voltage/frequency model from the factory that maps out how much voltage is required (again: required) for a given clockspeed, and the entire boost algorithm of the chip is built around that model. If you take away what the processor expects and needs to deliver a certain frequency, you don't get that frequency anymore. The model can't live up to its design because you've taken voltage away.

>This isn't arbitrary. It isn't "locked down." There's no conspiracy, here. It's basic physics that silicon devices need power to deliver frequency, and what we build into the model for each part is exactly what's required to support a certain frequency relative to the process tech, architecture, and reliability characteristics of the device.

>Ryzen isn't a GPU. Undervolting isn't a magic wand that's going to make your processor faster or better. The binning of the parts have a tight window to ensure everyone gets the same experience. It is designed to need no tinkering and massaging from undervolting.

>The conspiratorial tone of your post is truly, truly baffling to me. My goal is to educate people on Ryzen. One of those points of education is that undervolting is not helpful and beneficial for Ryzen, because the only possible outcome is reduced performance. My goal is to let people know they're broadly wasting their time, and should instead focus their tweaking efforts somewhere else.

>Undervolting has become a meme. People assume every chip, any kind of chip, needs it for the best outcome. People expect it. Especially people with lots of GPU experience. And I guess they get miffed when they encounter a device that is tightly designed such that undervolting isn't even required?

>You aren't being artificially locked down. I'm telling you you don't need it at all and it won't help you.

1080p 144Hz monitor, gaming, replacing a real old blower 7950 build long overdue for a replacement. Want a new one with a GPU that's gonna run a bit faster, cooler and quieter preferably

uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/sYjxyX

Not an expert, am I wasting any money or has my lurking paid off

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you didn't say it was AUD
in any case prioritise getting a good monitor and CPU before a GPU, since GPU upgrades are easy while CPU ones aren't
and get one of the win 10 keys online, heck even just avoid activating win 10 altogether if you don't mind an annoying watermark in the bottom right for a few months until you decide to get a key
2TBs is really fucking expensive for SSDs but that's your choice, personally 1TB and more storage is what I'd do

With RAM being cheap right now, how stupid is it to get 2x16 now even if you're not doing anything special with your PC? 16GB would be more than enough now, but I'm thinking with new consoles rumoured to come out with 24GB, maybe 32GB will start to come in handy two years down the road.

The alternative would be 2x8 now and buy another 2x8 in the future, but I've read that there sometimes there can be compatibility issues with some boards even if you're using the same sticks.

>tl:dr: 32Gb RAM for 'future proofing': Yea or Nay?

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Dual Bios vs Bios flashback
which one's the best?

Both are actually useless beyond one-time niche scenarios.
a single 32MB bios with features that work is all you need.

where were you when intel won?

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I have a Corsair Carbide 275R (pic related) and a Ryzen 5 3600. I'm currently using the stock cooler but I was looking at getting an AIO water cooler (either a 240mm or 280mm). Since I have high profile RAM, front-mounting is the only option. I have a few questions:
1) I assume that on cases that can front-mount a 360mm radiator, you can alternatively front-mount a 240mm radiator + extra 120mm intake fan?
2) Which front configuration would be better: a single 280mm radiator, a single 240mm radiator or a 240mm radiator + 120mm fan? (assuming the latter is possible)
3) I'm currently just using the stock fan configuration (2xSP120, one intake on front, one exhaust on rear). How should I configure these once the radiator is fitted? Should I move the front one to the top as an exhaust/intake? Should I swap them both out for a different type of fan?
4) I was also looking at getting a RX5700/XT soon too. Would a blower or open-air GPU be preferable for this set-up?

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FAR CRY
WORLD WAR Z
WHO CARES IF NOBODY ACTUALLY PLAYS THESE GAMES?
LOOK AT SOME MORE BENCHES OF FAR CRY AND WORLD WAR Z
INTEL WINS HAHA
FAR CRY
WORLD WAR Z

NH-D15S retard.

I say go for it if the money isn't much to you

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If you buy any of the following brands, you are a hopeless idiot:
>AMD
>MSI
>Seagate
>ASRock
>Razer
>Corsair (Towers are an exception, but you should still try to avoid)

Don't reply with your underage excuse and please don't try to persuade others to buy from these bottom of the barrel brands.

>this kills the kike

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>future proofing with ddr4

get a 360 or a 280 radiator and put it as intake

It's not like ddr5 will just render ddr4 obsolete. 95% of people will be fine with 32GB ddr4 even many years down the road.

point is, don't put all of your eggs in the same basket

NOOO the DDR5 shill wants you to think you're constantly bandwidth starved, even though it's been proven over and over again that barely anything scales well with ram speed and there are massive diminishing returns.

Would an AIO not be better for cases with somewhat limited airflow?

No.

what's a good mobo with wifi for my 3700x?

1.45v is a safe voltage or not after all?

>wifi
>on a desktop
Would you even get a good enough signal in your cuck shed?

For fuck's sake lad.
Can you even read?

I just bought a Dark Rock 4 for my 3900X. Is it enough? I thought it would be because you can't really OC Ryzen anyway. Or should i return it for the pro version?

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if I could I wouldn't be asking you

my personal issue is that with the 1.0v debacle that happened I was surprised to see that 1.27v could still deliver 4.2ghz with no performance loss, so this leaves me wondering just what's the margin of error here for all this voltage

also I really like the fact ryzen just wont bsod like intlels, just wish this whea bug would fuck off already

shut the fuck up idiot

I'm on a Samsung Smartfridge btw

what if
I get a 5700xt
and stick a heatsink instead of its shitty blower or an aio?

...

What's a good air cooler for the 2700? Looking to replace the stock cooler

No. Anyone who says otherwise is a marketing shill doing damage control

1.45v is absolutely not a safe voltage. That level of voltage physically destroys transistors.

Get a load of this smoothbrained fuck

>Number of cores doesn't matter! RAM speed doesn't matter! Just buy 6c/6t + 2666Mhz RAM.

Care to explain why? Most discussions I've read seem to suggest that mounting an intake radiator on the front of a low-airflow case will allow the CPU to get more cool air. The lower profile of the AIO block also would make it easier for the hot air inside the case to reach one of the exhaust points.

And what fan case fan configuration would you suggest for the NH-D15S?

How does that answer my question? And i do not think it would work out well for that matter

Nice try shill. People have been running overclocked 2500k at 1.45V for years and that's on 32nm. For 7nm it's obviously nothing.

lol ok champ go buy a $800 4800MHz kit for those spicy 0.7% gains

>ryzenbabs need 1.45v for 4.1ghz

LMAOING LARGELY

Just chilling over here with my 1.15v 5ghz dreamboat chip

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Intel also stated their safe voltages include 1.5v on their spec sheet

if I don't trust america funded israeli jews why would I trust chinese funded Indian jews

I have a feeling you're being sarcastic and already know this, but larger architectures can take more voltage.

Safe voltages for 32nm is up to 1.5v. 7nm can only do up to 1.325v.
>1.45v>1.325v = broken transistors

TUF X570 wifi version, for 220€, plus 256gb nvme for free. A good deal? In this price range, i don't think there is a better mobo, or is there?

>undervolting is a meme

Excuse me while I use less power and have lower temperatures while achieving the same performance and stability on my Ryzen 2600 with a -0.1125v offset.
I understand this Zen 2 idle voltage debacle is overblown because people are fear mongering that their chips are going to die when it's the actual all core boost voltage that's significant. The all core voltage will be like 1.3 something after Vdroop and still be will be within the safe limit for the chip. The problem is the variance of mobos and current bios with questionable stability that may deliver too much voltage due to aggressive LLC defaults.

Can explain in depth what's wrong with each of those?

How much was your industrial chiller?

true smoothbrain is a i7 8700 on a h mobo

I have you all beaten

I'm
so the stock cooler is sufficient

Undervolting worked well on Zen+, you even got some decent performance gains from the lower thermals.
Zen2 is not Zen+. I've used both, I've done my own testing. Even -25mV causes performance degradation.

reddit.com/r/overclocking/comments/cahr3t/max_safe_all_core_voltage_for_zen_2_is_1325v/

BBC cooler is best and completely cucks that other pasty ass cooler (you know the one)

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50% of these air coolers' price is their fans, and obviously you would prefer to have Noctua fans over Be Quiet fans. They are just excellent fans and can be re-used later outside the cooler.

It actually does help. AIO as intake has unlimited access to cool air but an air cooler in a poorly ventilated case will progressively get less efficient as the case air gets hotter.
>And what fan case fan configuration would you suggest for the NH-D15S?
There isn't a single way to optimize temps. It is very case dependant. One way is to have direct air intake pushing cool air to the tower. You can experiment with mounting a fan at the same height as the cooler at the front, or even try mounting a fan as intake if you have top fan mounts.

BB-BUT TECH YOUTUBERMAN SAID 1.47 IS DANGERUS!!
I EVEN READ IT FROM ANONAMOS?

I might know these memes
>chink jews
>no voltage offset in bios = ded parts
>low quality hdds and I think ssds?
>naw asrock is okay, maybe overpriced
>rgb premium, enjoy paying 75 usd for 1.50 usd of leds that will thermal throttle your memory, ssd and GPU
>premium rgb of the rgb brands

i'd have gone with 9700k if they didn't take out hyperthreading

Crucial MX500 1TB (SATA3) or ADATA SX6000Pro 1TB (DRAMless NVMe) as only system drive?

>obviously you would prefer to have Noctua fans over Be Quiet fans

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>tfw 1.4v on 7nm is as good as doing a suicide voltage of 1.5v on 14nm+++++

>>no voltage offset in bios = ded parts
huh?
which MSI mobos do that?

I know their old ones had that, not sure about new ones

>hardware unboxed burned their 3900x with auto voltages
nibba that's hilarious

how old are we talking?
b350?

what are some good power supplys in the 50-70max dollars max? currently t5hinking about buying a Seasonic S12III 550watt but some people on a reddit thread were disspointewd at it for not having OTP or OCP

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tbqh heard it from buildzoid
so it might be recent

r8, h8, masturb8
pcpartpicker.com/list/98dRLJ

shrink the ssd, use a bronze psu, get a 2080s

>brand that sells on name alone starts cutting corners and cheaping out
not shocked

already bought psu and ssd
and the 2080s is fucking expensive goddamn nvidia you fucking jews

wait for 5800xt?
it is fine if you can downgrade quality to tap out the full 144hz of the monitor

>recommending GPUs that only have blower reference card available

you should have seen it was trolling when there was no intlel options

just let the shills shills. tho I wish 5700xt had actual cheap waterblocks

>AIO as intake has unlimited access to cool air but an air cooler in a poorly ventilated case will progressively get less efficient as the case air gets hotter.
That's what I thought, which was why I was going to get an AIO in the first place. If I do get an AIO, would it be worth running any additional top-mounted fans or would a single 120mm exhaust fan at the rear be enough?

Is the difference between a 360mm radiator and 280mm significant enough to warrant the additional cost?

Blower cards are an option if you have a small case with poor airflow.

if I have a i7 and a 1070, can I connect a 1080p60 monitor on the mobo and a 1440p144 on the GPU and have no fps issues?

considering it for productivity. having a smol monitor just to read looks really good for me

b-but muh grafix
fuck, I guess I'll JustWait™ for a 5800xt with a decent cooler, maybe I'll resell it and swap it out for something better down the line, I want to play some fucking games RIGHT NOWWWW

My b450 tomahawk worked just fine when I did the BIOS flashback. Booted up and everything first. I'm positive the people having issues are retarded and it's all user error

buy a console., /v/oreguzzler

what does the UEFI menu look like in the new update?

no thanks, I need something to shitpost with