/mkg/ - Mechanical Keyboard General

/mkg/ - Game Boy Edition

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Previous Thread

Attached: GMK DMG.png (1024x576, 702K)

Other urls found in this thread:

aliexpress.com/item/32960262600.html
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newegg.com/p/32N-00C0-00012
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Dactyl Manuform anons, what did you wish you knew before building yours? What would you do differently the second time? I am finally going to make my own soon.
Have you printed it with high quality resin - or is it a different 3D printing material that you can achieve the highest quality prints with nowadays? I'm out of touch with the 3D printing stuff.
Also, are retooled MX blacks still the best medium-heavy linear switch you can get nowadays?

Alice is a fucking trash keyboard with the all time worst set of compromises to ergonomics.

While the Alice splits, it fails to address the row stagger problem (either by getting rid of it like Ergodoxes or reversing it on the left hand like the Topre ergo board) and fails to introduce any significant columnular stagger.

I can forgive boards like the standard Microsoft ergo boards for this because they keep everything in place such that it could be used by someone expecting their computer to be used by several people without causing any interruption to anyone's muscle memory. But the Alice changes enough of the thumb use to spoil any general public usability gains. What's left is a half measure of a committment that goes far enough to make turning back difficult but not far enough to do any real good.

Pic related is what the Alice should have been. Keeps the standard keyset compatibility goals of the Alice and the one piece design, but while also providing meaningful ergonomic gains.

tl;dr, the Alice is shit and you should feel bad for starting a thread with it.

Attached: ieemjmwd29d31.jpg (3024x3024, 1.1M)

Please could you stop posting keyboards like that?
I'm poor.

do you have a printer?
I know there are pretty cheap printing services on aliexpress that do SLA, which is probably preferable (haven't used any myself)
ordered my first from 3dhubs (cost me €50 for the 5x6), a bit pricey imo for FDM (which is considered inferior to SLA)

printed my second one myself on my ender 3, 0.1mm layer height (which took 30 hours per side)
it came out ok after a bit of sanding, priming and spray painting
someone here mentioned tree supports in cura (which I didn't use), definitely would recommend that if you're printing it yourself

also there's a fair amount of different versions, like the low profile one in my pic, redox manuform, regular one with more buttons etc. (you can find most of them on thingiverse if you search for 'dactyl manuform')
though I'd say the standard dactyl manuform 5x6 is pretty good, pretty much what I'd recommend to anyone
it's made for RJ-9 connectors/cables, which take like a month to ship from aliexpress, so yeah keep that in mind
on the other hand, even TRRS connectors take a month to ship

also gateron black > mx black
also print a switch opener and lube your switches

Attached: dactyl manuform mini.jpg (1500x745, 742K)

How accurate is this?

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Im looking for a new keyboard. I was using the k120 until it broke and dug out the old dinovo edge and it has unacceptable connection issues.
I like a quiet key and do not want tactical feed back other than bottoming out like you do with any other keyboard.
I could go for Bluetooth or wired.
price range sub $150.
I spent $300 on this thing and its a piece of shit. amazing when it does work, but its a piece of shit all other times. random disconnects, whatever key combination that was pressed when it disconnects will be held. It ctrl+w'd 100 tabs on me yesterday.

it's missing a tiny detail telling you that kailh/gateron>cherry

pretty much spot on

browns do supposedly feel better after retooling,
they're still barely tactile tho, so most people will still be disappointed
wait, how did you manage to spend 300$ on a consumer-grade keyboard?

its a scissor membrane keyboard with an actuation force of about 70g if these scales are a reliable way of measuring.
I like that pressure.

a leopold with mx blacks?

it was high end at the time. first rechargeable wireless keyboard on the market, bluetooth was hot shit at the time and worked with my dumbphone (before smartphones were common), I was young, tired of shit, had 0 fucks, wanted something that wasn't garbage, and fell for the "you get what you pay for" meme.
At the time I was happy with it, but a year later the connection issues started. I warrantied it twice and they all did this. I thought it was interference from something else.

>browns feel like reds with dirt in them
Reds feel like reds with dirt in them.

Im looking into them now, thanks.
Is this brand considered good or what tier is it?

>kailh>cherry
retard

GreenChad here

one day you will look back at this and realize how silly you were

It's already been proven Kailh switches are exactly the same as Cherry, except made with cheaper materials. You are a colossal idiot.

>666
the devil does indeed hide in plain sight

Gateron browns are good and anyone that says otherwise can suck my dick.

t. post-purchase rationalization

Are there any "ergonomic keyboards" that split the left/right sides up but also have redundant keys that can be used on either side? For example, having the middle keys like B, G, H, T, and Y all duplicated so they're on both the left portion and the right portion.

All the technical details come from the original image. Everything that was shopped later is just cringeworthy meme-spouting. I'd rather err on the side of cautious and disregard the recommendations.

repost

it's considered the best widely available prebuilt keyboard brand with cherry switches

usually people use caps lock and WASD to do the arrows and the home keys are all over the place.

If you want something similar to that style I would recommend the vortex vibe.

>666
Holy shit it is the switch antichrist

>Clear
>Semi-rare
HAHAHHA

?
sure, it's much more common than gray, but still much less available than the light switches

Don't know which keyboards you are getting from, but considering the options, you can get from clear switches on mechanicalkeyboards.com, it is not rare at all.

Who the fuck buys cherry anymore? Just get those box switches and never look back.

just try getting it in europe, shit is out of stock everywhere

Box Navies are great, I think a lot of people have reservations against the click even if the click feels good.

Dad came for a visit and thought my "fancy clicky keyboards" were cool and wants one for his birthday. He's a pretty well-off businessman so he wants something nice and not gaymery. I was thinking a Leopold, but I've never had anymore fancier than a ducky. Leopold is pretty nice, right?

>Leopold is pretty nice, right?
yeah, if there was a prebuilt cherry board tier list, Leopold would be S to Ducky's A
actually, is there a list like that? if not, we should totally make one

i'll make the logo

WASD is so fucking trash for arrows. Use ESDF so your fingers don't have to leave home row positioning.

Use whatever suits you, WASD isn't that detrimental. :)

I'll make a shitty website.

Looking for a mechanical keyboard with the following features:
>100% form factor
>USB passthrough
>volume/media keys
>backlit keys (doesn't necessarily have to be RGB)

Are there any keyboards that offer these features for a lower price than the Corsair K70 (£110)? I'm in the UK so a lot of keyboards that are cheap for Americans are usually much more expensive over here.

Useless news: got a Filco for work today with MX pinks - had no idea what to expect never having tried linear, let alone silent switches before. Super pleasantly suprised.

Attached: Cherry_MX_Silent_Red_Switch_244a0_large.png (678x1250, 282K)

Yeah, get one of those nice beige looking leopolds

I was just thinking about making something like mouse with small trackball in the middle and two kailh chocs as mouse buttons.
I don't have any drawings of it (I don't have my laptop here), but it would have shape like boomerang or somethig like that.
What do you think about that?

I have no idea what you're saying but I do have a touchpad in between my dactyl manuform and it's 10/10

Attached: keyboard in side light.jpg (2100x1400, 693K)

I want to you this thing for mouse movement and two switches as left and right mouse buttons
It would be just a weird mouse, not keyboard xd

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anyone know how to add cyrillic layer to qmk firmware (the doc is vague)

Ordered a Topre clone from NiZ the other day, how bad did I fuck up/what am I in for /mkg/?

have you ever made a tacticool keyboard?

I think that only option is to switch to russian layout on your computer

Thanks for the detailed response.
>do you have a printer?
No, but I have access to high quality printers through my university, basically for free.
>it's made for RJ-9 connectors
I was thinking of going mini XLR, thoughts?
>gateron black > mx black
Are you sure about this? I trust Germans more.
Also, that looks light as fuck. Did you put any weights in it to keep it from sliding around?

Burt?

i have a new tada i have no use for
where can i sell it (eu)

What switches?

red

I could swear my blues feel much my tactile when I can hear the click than when i have my headphones on, anyone else feel like this?

*much more tactile

>browns do supposedly feel better after retooling,

I have retooled browns here, feels alright.

How hard would it be to change what keycodes a keyboard is sending, and maybe add a fn layer on keys that don't have one? Specifically I'm talking about the Cherry g84-4100.
I don't want to do it on the on the computer side of things, because I want it to work regardless of OS, and I know that Windows doesn't allow for remapping of certain keys.

Noob here, how does this compare to something like pic related?

Attached: dell-usb-keyboard-500x500.jpg (500x500, 22K)

Yeah. Use 2 USB keyboards.

You could get a split keyboard that has additional programmable keys (such as the ErgoDox EZ) and program the keys in the middle to duplicate the keys on the other half.

How much are you selling it for

SLA would give you the best result (visually)
though FDM printers are fine too at 0.1mm with some more sanding and good priming
if you really don't care about the layer lines showing you could print at 0.2mm layer height, which will print much faster
the one in my pic is at 0.2mm layer height on an FDM printer for example (no sanding, only primed and spray painted)

you can pretty much use any cable/connector with 3 or more pins (for GND, VCC, and 3 on the pro micro)
only 'issue' is the cutout, which you can adjust in the clojure design file or with a drill/dremel and some hot glue

I haven't used mx blacks in a while but the gateron blacks (lubed) are very smooth, a lot of people have been preferring them over the cherry switches
also they'll run you under $20 to fill the board with

and yes it's very light (165g per side) but I don't really notice it, the rubber bumpers keep it from sliding and the constrution feel sollid enough (to me)

also I'd recommend getting all the wiring stuff like diodes, dupont jumper wires, pro micros, solid core electrical wire, cable crimper etc. off aliexpress
it'll total you $20 max (does take a month or more to get delivered though)
you can get it semi-locally, but you'll have to pay a 500% markup

I have that keyboard as well!
you'd have to be able to flash different firmware to change the FN key position (which is not possible from what I know)
if you can somehow put in a different controller (QMK compatible) then you'd be good to go
should be TOO hard technically speaking

Attached: manu5.jpg (5184x3456, 3.01M)

I meant SHOULDN'T
also forgot to resize the picture

The closest MX swithches to membranes are probably browns, although they're still very different. Firstly. tactile mechanical switches have a little bit of travel distance before you hit the bump that gives some resistance. With membranes and rubber domes you have a relatively high initial resistance as soon as you try to apply any pressure to the key. Secondly, once you apply enough pressure on a membrane keyboard you usually end up bottoming out. With mechanical switches you can hit the actuation point without bottoming out (although it's more difficult to do this with browns since they are quite light). And last but not least, the tactile feedback that mechanical switches give is a lot sharper. This is particularly true with the clears, greys and clicky switches but even the browns (which are probably the "mushiest" switches) feel a bit sharper than membranes.

>tfw have 3 different keycap sets on my 1 keyboard

>membranes
Please stop using this term incorrectly. The sensing mechanism has barely anything to do with the key feel and membrane does not necessarily imply the use of rubber. Model M's are membrane keyboards and there are keyboards which use rubber AND a PCB instead of a membrane.

Why would flashing a different firmware be impossible? Is the ROM chip not rewritable or just not accessible?

Whites and greens have the same springs so I have no idea where they got those numbers from

do you know what ROM stands for? you'd have to take out the ship and hard code it

>ship
yikes

EPROM and EEPROM exist? How do you think the /tpg/ guys libreboot their x200?

we're talking about a keyboard made in the 80s that still hasn't been updated, and not a thinkpad. seriously it's got 2kro when even back then some cherry keyboards had nkro

With a SOIC8 clip and serial programmer.


..After the entire controller's been reverse engineered and the new firmware's been tested on it.

ISO layout? and how much?

My brother gave me his numpad and I was wondering what's a good hot-swappable TKL board. The Glorious looks like the least expensive without any keycaps but are there any Chinese ones that are good?

yeah there's a chinese clone on aliexpress. I forget what it was called, but it looks just as gay

Yeah, I don't really like the design of the base but the Massdrop ones are expensive.

70 set of Holy pandas are sold out on massdrop. Don't want to drop $130 on some new switches.
Anyone have experience with them?
Ordered browns but I was told the holy pandas are much better

just go on aliexpress and search for hotswap keyboards
this looks okay
aliexpress.com/item/32960262600.html

Will do, thanks.

Preparing to build a gergo, and I have no idea what I'm doing, haven't soldered in tens of years.

Am I meant to align the diodes across the two metal pads like shown in the picture? What do the oval pads vs square pads mean? How do I know if I've orientated the diode for the correct polarity? It says that once I've soldered on this side, I flip over and finish on the other, but I don't see any matching contacts on the other side.

Apologies for retarded questions

Attached: IMG_20190802_010708.jpg (4000x3000, 3.79M)

Don't have them in a board yet, but they do feel pretty nice in hand. If you don't care about them being Real Holy Pandas™ then it might be cheaper and easier to get one of the YOK clones and slap halo stems in them.

Attached: IMG_20190723_154333.jpg (1611x1836, 775K)

So what do you think of your new Keychron K2, anons?

where would you even start with that?
seems to me it would be easier to just take off the controller and put in a teensy, flash QMK on it

Attached: g844100.jpg (2476x1857, 373K)

drop.com/buy/81109
newegg.com/p/32N-00C0-00012

This Magicforce "smart2" or 68 v2 hits a lot of the requirements I've been looking for (60-75%, white case, white LEDs, Bluetooth 4.0, USB-C)

Can't find any good reviews of it though, and I'm not entirely confident that it won't be garbage. Does Jow Forums have any insight into this? I don't have a lot of familiarity with buying from Chinese vendors.

magicforce is probably the most popular of the cheap chink brands due to their reliability in build quality. even linus sebastian (creator of linux) endorsed them.

I'm going to buy a reproduction Model M Kishsaver you can't stop me

Excuse me Model F

Does anyone know how the Razer green switches compare to everything else? I need to upgrade to a full size but the only mechanical i've ever had is this small ass black widow. I've heard greens are most like blues for comparison but I figure I'd trust Jow Forums more than shill youtubers

like 90 eur i guess

ansi, it's white

Learning chorded Colemak on the Georgi's going well. Already probably faster than me two fingering QWERTY, and for sure way fuckin faster than me trying to touch type QWERTY.

Not happy with my speed enough to take it anywhere just yet, but it's actually getting there decently fast. I'm usually hovering around 80wpm on my Dox, with having to correct numerous spelling errors because I'm retarded.

I can't yet say for sure if moving middle row letters to chords is great (in terms of low travel if you don't need the smolness) or if enough keys for each letter is mostly better, but I can say chording in general is absolutely gamechanging. I wish it was easier to set shit on my Dox to chords in some way tightly integrated with QMK, because it's just so damn powerful.

Side note: I'm only even writing this update for more practice typing. I don't even care about the update myself. But I just gotta type on this thing.

learn colemakDH

They are like blues but to be they seem lighter both in feel and sound.

Fuckin why? I've already known Colemak for about 7 years and having no row stagger mostly eliminates the problems Colemak-DH seeks to address anyway.

I'm just learning the chording layout on the Georgi where there is no middle row, so you enter the letter "A", for example, by hitting "Q" and "Z" together.

>buy nice key caps from some guy in China with a website
>pick up envelope from package room
>ride elevator up to apartment
>see box of zip plastic bags after I open door
>should I?
>meh, OK, I should
>zip padded envelope of key caps into bag
>place on coffee table on top of other things
>30 minutes later
>bag slips
>look over at it
>notice bed bug inside bag

I got into the plastic bag meme when buying used books, good thing I didn't give in to my brief hesitation when bringing back a package from China!

Also, to elaborate, I have never at any point in my life known how to touch type in QWERTY, learned on Colemak on standardish layout and moved to my first Dox not long after. I'm comparing the Georgi to my two finger typing on QWERTY since my primary goal is something pocket sized to not need to use other people's qwerty boards (or go around downloading PKL for Colemak) anymore. My "touch typing" on QWERTY is a like two words a minute crawl of spending several seconds thinking of each letter.

what happened next?