/mkg/ - Mechanical Keyboard General

/mkg/ - Keep the fucking threads alive edition
>Buyer's template:
pastebin.com/33S1gVkG
>Where to Buy:
pastebin.com/8Yku80VL
>FAQs:
pastebin.com/M5w7QtKp
>Group Buys
deskthority.net/viewforum.php?f=50
drop.com/
>Keyboard wiki
deskthority.net/wiki/Main_Page
>Keyset wiki
keypuller.com (web.archive.org/web/20161101152119/http://keypuller.com/)

Attached: Model F.jpg (1024x763, 261K)

Other urls found in this thread:

mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=3549
caseking.de/ducky-one-2-tkl-skyline-pbt-gaming-tastatur-mx-brown-grau-gata-1001.html
wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/products/mechanical-keyboard/wasd-61-key-doubleshot-abs-hyperfuse-origins-mechanical-keyboard.html
wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/products/make/wasd-vp3-61-key-seaside-custom-mechanical-keyboard.html
twitter.com/AnonBabble

PREVIOUS THREAD

I have a lot of money and want a prebuild board that is very click clacky with heavy buttons.
I'm an american btw what do i get?

My wife's daughter uses a mechanical keyboard.

It's very loud and clacky but who can stay mad at such an innocent little loli!

Get whatever metal cased hotswap board and slap box navies in it.

Jump on those Model F reproductions

>My wife's daughter
cuck

is the Logitech g613 worth the bucks

Caps are trash and no one makes sets for Romer-G

Best Kailh Box tactiles?

Some guy is selling an OG IBM modle M for 100bucks near me, is it worth it,?

Have a Dactyl Manuform built for you with Box Navy switches.

I just bought the GK64, roast me

How much do PBT capsets generally cost?

everything

Does any of you have experience with Buckling meme keyboards for daily use, and what about pic related Unicomp keyboards?
I have cherry browns right now but when my keyboard dies I would like some a unicomp as i like the aesthetic

Attached: uni.png (899x350, 259K)

If you live in America go for it. If not, I wouldn't recommend it, because if anything if wrong with your board it's going to be a pain to repair, not to mention the shipping prices will be quite high to even get it to you in the first place.

Also, if you're used to cherry browns, then the tactility in buckling springs is going to blow you away. It will make browns look like a little baby.

That depends entirely on the model and its condition.

are kailh box whites good?

Sure, not that tactile compared to box navy/jade though.

Attached: small ones.jpg (2100x1400, 818K)

Thanks for the reply user

>pay over a hundred and sixty bucks for a meme 60% custom kit that I effectively bricked
>completely cucked out of my money
>go to ebay, see vintage new in box keyboards sporting non-meme layouts in pristine condition for under a hundred dollars
>meanwhile here I am with this hipster caricature artifact that I can't even bloody boot up on my desk
I've been played

Attached: 567.png (321x571, 186K)

How do you even brick a board? The only way I could think of is if you pulled the plug in the middle of flashing but the flashing process takes milliseconds, so you'd have to be really trying to fuck that up.

Posted in last thread. Duck Sidewinder with millmax sockets, filmed, 205g0-lubed Tealios w/ 68g SPRiTs, alu plate. Lubed clipped and band-aid modded Cherry screw-ins. GMK Minimal.

It's pretty nice. Got a M60-A seq2 on the way shortly here, too. So pumped.

Attached: tealiosidewinder.png (956x683, 1.36M)

I have a shitty kb (pic related) that's seen some love the past 5 years. It's very usable but very basic and the tactile feedback is meh. I've been wanting to move up to a decent mechanical with cherry browns but I like my kb layout. Specifically the lack of windows key on the left side with the Fn and windows key swapped. Anything out there like it? Budget limit is $200 but about $100 would be best.

Attached: tte sports knucker.jpg (800x622, 211K)

Which hotswap boards aren't complete shit?

Ducky One 2 allows you to configure the bottom row like that using the DIP switches on the bottom.

I've had my unicomp for daily use at work for about 2 years now. No problems and I love it. It's way better than my ducky with cherry blues at home

Just don't it's only an additional point of failure.

What exactly isn't working?
Have you examined every solder joint around the controller and the power supply/usb plug parts?

Between installing drivers from different sources and trying to connect it up, then flashing and reflashing firmware with the hex from the QMK gui configurator, I managed to get it stuck in DFU mode. Every method I could find online has been tried, I seriously dun goofed here.

IBM Model M Keyboard
Part No 1390120
Manufacture Date: 31 October, 1986
Guy says he cleaned it. Missing one of the Ctrl keycaps and says it works.

windows users, everyone.

Just get the modern one from unicomp

Thanks user, I'll check it out

>Tealios
Did you build this (or get it built) when Aliaz switches weren't a thing yet? Buying a bunch of those and swapping in regular Gateron stems ends up costing less and feels exactly the same.
Although between Duck, Zeal switches, Tribosys lube, SPRiT springs, screw-in stabs and GMK keycaps cost probably isn't a huge concern.

I just purchased a Corsair K95 with speed switches and there's nothing you nerds can do about it lmao

That's a retarded layout.

Nah yeah it's not a concern for me. But I didn't realize doing that would give the same thing

I'm kind of a newb to custom boards and it's a nice fun hobby for me so I don't mind dropping a lot to get something really, really nice. However if someone has any suggestions on how to get something better or just as good for cheaper I'll gladly read that

honestly it's a pretty good keyboard ngl just a bit overpriced but if you got the money who cares, the macro keys are bredy gud and the keyboard is gorgeous in the dark

I've been using a model M for 3 years now, and i really like it.
I'd suggest buying an IBM one, because the lexmark tooling is worse.

Attached: 2c0dmxgrxfh31.jpg (5184x3456, 2.53M)

Pure cancer.

Then for future reference, Zeal's linears are a big ripoff. Aliaz housings + Gateron linear stems and springs of your choice are the same thing but end up costing less, and Novelkeys Cream switches are just as smooth if not smoother right off the bat.
Zeal's tactiles are expensive too, but at least they use unique tooling for the stems.

>not a single 3d board
pedo
(nice collection)

All the cases seem similar and the keycaps are all either dsa-like or cherry-like from what I can see. Would be nicer to see more variety and not just a bunch of different colors.

>mfw I want the GK61 for hot swappable switches but the Anne Pro has better stabilizers and software
what to do bros?

Attached: 745745745745.png (640x506, 246K)

> go to keymap generator
> put in board
> get layout
> design layout
> download hex
> open qmk toolbox
> but board in debug mode
> board registers in qmk
> click "flash"
> select your hex
> done

Gollee gee that sure was tough! Do you have problems starting you car user?

you can't possibly use all of those keyboards at the same time. you are not keith emerson

Thanks man. I'll order some creams.

b-but I've repeated these steps at least 7 times in the course of last week, the problem is that it stays in DFU mode after I flash it

Attached: 1509962061567.jpg (367x384, 29K)

this thread is moving so fast nobody will know i used a rubber dome keyboard until last week

FUCK MACBOOK PRO BUTTERFLY KEYBOARDS FUCK APPLE FUCK MY WORKPLACE FOR GETTING ME A CRAPBOOK PRO WHAT THE FUCK IS WRONG WITH THESE CURSED KEYBOARDS?????????? WHO DESIGNED AND APPROVED THIS SHIT?????

without a hint of irony you should kill yourself

A Leopold with Cherry MX Greens

Leopold FC900R has a function key you can run on either left or right side, togglable with a dip switch and swappable win/fn caps.

mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=3549

I like mine, shame the trackpoint shit itself but it was awful anyway so no big loss.

don't get browns if you want tactile feeback, they barely have any

>no numpads
into the trash

i have cherry speeds and the tactile feedback is fine, they have even less actuation distance than browns and I don't have a problem. just don't be a fat fingered greasy fuck and you're good

true if you're american and your fingers are the size and shape of sausages

>120 usd max
>europe, croatia
>cherry mx brown
>german so i can put custom key caps with croatian č, ć, ž, š and đ letters
>tkl
>preferably white but i don't want full rgb if it effects the price too much, dimming would be nice
>logitech k120 that has served me for years

this is almost perfect but not if i have to pay 150$ for it

they're objectively the least tactile tactile switches on the market
of course that might be perfect for you, just be warned and make an informed decision

aren't speed silvers literally linear switches without tactile feedback tho

Yeah they are, user doesn't know what tactile feedback is.

they have good tactile feedback, it's just the actuation point happens before they bottom out. they clickety clackety with all the rest. the main drawback is you can't rest your hands on them because you might actuate a key and not know, but that's bad posture regardless. i find they work best for gaming and they are pretty pleasant to type on (I tried reds and browns before going with silvers). i was skeptical at first until i tried one and now i'm glad i did. i thought they'd feel mushy but they feel quite pleasant to type on and don't make my fingers tired.

you will make more typos until you get used to it though as you unlearn the bad habits of resting your fingers on keys

you literally don't know what you're talking about. they bottom out and have a spring and push back and make noise with every keypress, it's just the actuation happens earlier which is good for gaming

sure if you're looking for something like blues you're probably gonna hate speeds but if you're asking about browns i'm gonna assume you're a gaymer and in that case you should be considering speeds

Every switch currently available actuates before it bottoms out, dipshit. That's the main thing that sets mechanical keyboards apart from rubberdomes.
A tactile switch has a "bump" in the key travel around the actuation point, a clicky switch has a mechanism to generate both a tactile bump and an audible click, and linear switches have no signs of actuation across the whole key travel.

Thanks for suggestions anons I just ordered Ducky One 2 in cherry reds. Figured the tactile feedback of browns was just something I was holding onto since I'm from cheap plunger type actuators, so I went all the way and ordered linear switch

Attached: Ducky One 2.jpg (800x800, 48K)

>they have good tactile feedback
springs pushing back isn't considered additional tactile feedback, in the linear / tactile / clicky classification of MX switches, silvers are linear
>the actuation point happens before they bottom out
just like in every other MX switch

I get that you're excited about your keyboard user but please inform yourself before posting advice or you'll just confuse people

well then technically no linear switch has tactile feedback by your definition, which is fine, but not how the other user was using it: sorry, I don't mean to confuse people. No, the switches don't have tactile feedback for actuation, but for someone who's considering purchasing a mechanical keyboard they shouldn't get the wrong idea that it's like using a touchpad or something.

good choice user, you won't regret it.

>touchpad
i rage every time i think about the touchbar on my work laptop.

what's wrong with a corsair k95?
>t. has a k95

RGB

Attached: yuck.png (512x512, 60K)

Shit caps and bloated software, and a non-standard bottom row that makes it harder to fit non-shit caps so they can jew you out of another 50 bucks for their own PBT doubleshots that should've come standard on the board at the price point it's at.

Just know that these keyboards are BIG. Unicomp doesn't make an SSK variant so I just found a couple of them on craigslist for cheap and use those instead

If you can stretch out your budget by a tiny amount you can get a Ducky One from caseking
caseking.de/ducky-one-2-tkl-skyline-pbt-gaming-tastatur-mx-brown-grau-gata-1001.html

maybe they all have different switches?

I bought from Unicomp once, never again.

My Model M is dying. The space bar's hammer sits in the activated position if I flip the keyboard upside down and right side up quickly.
It's been a good run, but what should I replace it with?
I want something that's as close to buckling springs as possible. I can't afford another Industrial Model M, normal Model Ms are too expensive now too, and cherry feels like absolute dog shit.

Attached: IMG_0203.jpg (4032x3024, 1.07M)

You could probably just get replacement parts from unicomp m8.

just fix it
the closest feeling to buckling springs is buckling springs. I even went to reddit meetups to try out different switches and nothing came close. That said I really enjoyed typing on this. Box pale blues don't feel like buckling springs, but if I had to pick a #2 best clicky switch it would be those

Attached: 20180616_144635.jpg (4032x3024, 3.21M)

I don't believe they sell the keyboard assembly, and their repair service is as expensive as just buying another keyboard, which would make more sense as I'd have spare keys and parts.

What switch are they? I use all the keys on my keyboard, and don't have enough desu.

>What switch are they
did you even read my post? they're box pale blues.

I thought that was the name of the keyboard. Thanks user.

apparently putting SA keycaps on pale blues changes their feeling. I don't know it that's true, but SA keycaps are nice since they're a taller profile like on the model M. Getting higher profile keycaps might be a good idea

What's a good tactile switch to look for if I can't afford Zilents?

hako royals, regular box royals, arctos, outemu sky, apparently you can still get T1 switches off alibaba too.

If it's just the spring or flipper that are fucked I would be surprised if you couldn't get some spares of those from unicomp.

Yes you should buy a new product instead of fixing a minor problem like a good consumer.

The fixes are all expensive or risk ruining the keyboard.

How do you even take apart the keyboard mechanism? As far as I can tell they're riveted together.

I suppose you'd have to bolt mod it, but bolt modding is recommended anyway last I checked.

>expensive or risk ruining the keyboard.
not really, the model M is well built. the downside is that you have to drill out the plastic rivets, but then you can just use nuts and bolts instead. If you're a soiboy who's never touched a screwdriver then yeah

I suppose I could try that on my backup board which died from water damage (while not plugged in for years).
I figure it's just mineral buildup.
Thanks for the advice anons.

Attached: 1563855130566.png (500x505, 110K)

Damn that's an industrial model too
You really just gonna give up on it like that? Those go for so much...

nth for still no good yellow backlit boards

I'm building a pc and want to get a mkb. It seems to me that besides the key switches and the size/layout of the keyboard, there is little difference between the keyboards? What is the difference between

wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/products/mechanical-keyboard/wasd-61-key-doubleshot-abs-hyperfuse-origins-mechanical-keyboard.html

and

wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/products/make/wasd-vp3-61-key-seaside-custom-mechanical-keyboard.html

that warrants a such a drastic jump in price?

If only those faggots at Unicomp would make a wireless board with TKL or 60% layout they'd be swimming in money. Why are they so stupid?