/pcbg/ - PC Building General

ATTENTION: Graphics card prices are excessive by historical standards; therefore, consumers should delay or completely forgo any midrange to high end graphics card purchases. The gouging has two root causes: lack of market competition and shortage/"new normal" pricing during the mining hayday.

>Assemble a part list
pcpartpicker.com/
>Example gaming builds and monitor suggestions; click on titles above parts lists to see notes
pcpartpicker.com/user/pcbg/saved/
>How to non-technically assemble a PC
youtube.com/watch?v=69WFt6_dF8g

Want help?
>State budget & CURRENCY
>Post at least some attempt at a parts list
>List your uses, e.g. Gaming, Video Editing, VM Work
>For monitors, include purpose (e.g., photoediting, gaming) and graphics card pairing (if applicable)

CPUs based on current pricing:
>Athlon 200GE - HTPC, web browsing, bare minimum gaming (can be OC'd on most mobos with the right BIOS)
>R3 2200G - Recommended minimum gaming
>R5 2600/X - Good gaming CPU with great value
>R5 3600 - Great gaming CPU
>R7 2700 - Budget video editing
>R9 3900X - Professional tasks

RAM:
>Always choose at least a two stick kit; 2x 8GB is recommended
>CPUs benefit from high speed RAM; 3200CL16 is ideal
>AMD B and X chipsets and Intel Z chipsets support XMP

Graphics cards based on current pricing:
>AAA or multiplatform games: Radeon card appropriate for your montior
>PC centric games, VR games, or ray tracing: Nvidia card appropriate for your display
>Used RX 570s can be had for a steal; inquire about warranty
1080p 16:9
>RX 570 8GB - good performance with great value
>GTX 1660 - standard

General:
>PLAN YOUR BUILD AROUND YOUR MONITOR IF GAMING
>Don't bother buying a new monitor for gaming unless it's high refresh with adaptive sync
>A 250GB or larger SSD is almost mandatory; consider m.2 form factor
>Bottleneck checkers are worthless

Previous:

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Other urls found in this thread:

pcpartpicker.com/list/msFzQZ
pcpartpicker.com/list/43QFWD
pcpartpicker.com/list/q7fJCb
pcpartpicker.com/list/x3VsbX
youtube.com/watch?v=GlGjd1GZWdo
amazon.com/Sabrent-Rocket-Internal-Performance-SB-ROCKET-1TB/dp/B07LGF54XR
youtube.com/watch?v=fl_bUBldX4Q
pcpartpicker.com/list/XMFFWD
ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/V2b3zY
twitter.com/SFWRedditGifs

So should I get the Dell S2719DGF OR the Acer VG271UP?

Get a 5700xt it's the best val-

Attached: 2070cheap.png (1418x492, 66K)

Gaming with light streaming.
Emulation for 3D consoles like PS2 era stuff.

Friend made this for me:
pcpartpicker.com/list/msFzQZ

I made this:
pcpartpicker.com/list/43QFWD

I have no idea what I'm doing

Edit these lists for your recs.

Willing to go up to $1k

How is the Asus TUF GAMING X570-PLUS? I've heard the LAN on it isn't the best but everything else seems acceptable for the price.

threadripper when

>Back when I was buying the old CPU I was under the impression that anything more than an i5 was overkill for gaming.
You are correct.

Most games only ever used 1 or 2 cpu cores, and after BF3 and Frostbite engine had its breakthrough in 2011 that number got pushed up to 4 cpu cores across the industry. And as you might have guessed, i5 cpus with 4 cores were doing perfectly fine and even better than the i7 for gaming since hyper threading cuts down the single core performance. Paying more than 50% extra for a cpu that performs worse in games was a illogical choice for gamers. Quad core cpus were mainstream up until recent years, mainly after developers started opening up for more cores to be utilized and AMD releasing Ryzen.

The end result now is that the more cores/threads you have, the better. Your i5 might have been the better cpu back then but now days its almost considered obsolete for anything other than esport titles and the i7 3770 is a decent cpu that holds its own. I would however not recommend buying one today, old 3rd and 4th gen i7 still sell for a lot and I do not see them as a good option since there is a gap in performance between them and new cpus. If you can get one for cheap or free, then great, but otherwise consider selling your old system and get a ryzen 3600, especially for higher end graphical quality.

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Shit didn't see new thread...

Need me a 27" 4k screen...

Mostly video and photo viewing
Want good color accuracy out the box

Not sure if I need HDR since I mostly just stream.

Budget around 500 bucks USA

Poor bait

That's a pretty insane deal if real. Cheapest on newegg right now is $430

>both builds
Sabrent Rocket

>Ryzen build
As I noted in the last thread, the 2600 will bottleneck the 2060S at 1080p in some cases. A 3600 would be fine. OP builds have MSI mobos with a BIOS Flash button, which allows you to update a B450 for a Ryzen 3000 CPU

pcpartpicker.com/list/q7fJCb
This is the best I can do in order to save you cash. You have a little room to make some upgrades to the cpu or storage drive also you can swap out the 5700xt for the reference 5700.
Don't trust barracudas they are shit tier.

Hobbyist or Pro?

R5 2600 is too weak for a 5700 at 1080p

Says who?

Hobbyist.

5700 is slightly more powerful than a 2060

Attached: hitman 2 cpu vs gpu comparison.png (1611x927, 152K)

If you can get someone to calibrate it, AOC U2790.
If not you'll have to pay the Dell tax and get a U2719Q

*U2718Q

pcpartpicker.com/list/x3VsbX
The this will do

Mine is using hdmi 2.0, when it happened it tried switching it to the hdmi 1.4 cord, but that didnt change anything.
I've started getting some artifacting on the top left while playing overwatch with the squad. The ingame performance overlay shows my fps flickering at 70-80, and my temp is staying at 0 degrees, when I know for a fact that I could crack an egg on my GPU and have breakfast in a minute.
I'll try your power cycle method next time it happens, but I hope this problem is fixed when I swap for the red devil xt, else I'm gonna start crying that my 2k cad with tax build is garbage even though I believed in it.
I just want my very first build to be serviceable for the next few years before it gets repoed by the IRS, or I kill myself.

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Then an IPS will do. Are you sticking with those two tasks only?

I was stress testing my CPU after I flashed a new BIOS update and I got a critical process died BSOD while doing so, is that bad or completely normal?

>If you can get someone to calibrate it
Not him but anywhere to get something calibrated if you have no calibration tool? Like calibration tool rental?

>GPU out of stock

I'm ready to buy all this shit now

>150 bucks promo gift card from Dell
For 100 dollars more is Dell a better buy?
Yup. I dont play games.

I'm not american but services like that do exist in my country.
They don't rent you the tool but rather come and run the calibrations for you.

Maybe? It's got a nicer backlight and comes pre calibrated to several color spaces.
It also has a known defect (red corners) because it uses a LG panel. But you can just RMA if it does happen to you.
Lemme see if I can find that review for the AOC again

Is m.2 a meme or should I replace my crucial mx500 with a m.2/NVME SSD? I want this to be my primary OS drive and also some games on it, so I imagine it will get read/written a lot.

Attached: __charlotta_fenia_granblue_fantasy_drawn_by_mitchi__3fea6b6b26bf70fa08488a7e49fc9ead.jpg (1536x2048, 199K)

I don't know if it's worth upgrading an existing sata ssd, but if you are buying a new one there's no reason to get anything but an m.2 nvme drive

This will be my first SSD ever. What would you recommend around the $100-130 range for an SSD? I'd like at least 1 TB.

user, you're a mess.
m.2 is just a form factor, but it can either be sata speed or pcie speeds (nvme)
nvme really only finds benefit from things like video production. Gaymes get bottlenecked by other shit usually and the speed is a waste for your OS and browsers.

At m.2 sata speeds, you're basically saving yourself the headache of routing cables

>my first SSD ever
>replace my crucial mx500
???

Yeah...You might need to do some digging

Check local stores and or get a 5700 regular based on your use case

In the PC build i'm looking to build I mean, as in replacing what I buy for an SSD.

youtube.com/watch?v=GlGjd1GZWdo

sabrent rocket pcie3 1tb
amazon.com/Sabrent-Rocket-Internal-Performance-SB-ROCKET-1TB/dp/B07LGF54XR

Thanks. I went with Dell for peace of mind. They seem to have better customer care in the states.

Inland Premium, Sabrent Rocket, SX8200, EX920, EX950 are the top 5 value performance options, off the top of my head.
You can also use Optane with StoreMi for max performance and sort of value. Like pair optane with a 4TB QLC drive and you get optane latency and performance most of the time while fixing the shitty QLC endurance, slow down when nearly full, etc.

>slightly
10% is significantly better considering it typically doesn't cost 10% more.
In 99% of games they are pretty well paired. You might lose 5-10% of the fps you COULD get, but that's not significant compared to the $75 you save.
Don't listen to fake Russian benchmark posters.

It sounds like i'll go with the sabrent rocket then. my only issue is my NVME/m.2 drive appears to be under where my GPU will be, but it has a heat sink so I hope that should be alright.
Thanks fellas, sorry for being so confusing. I'm just really eager to build a PC for the first time and this was the last thing I was deciding on.

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make sure you watch chad deals video though he puts so much work into them, he's doing his best

Why are there so many brands in GPUs?
I'm a literal moron.

Do I choose MSI? EVGA? Sapphire? ASUS?

Should I worry?

Attached: Screen Shot 2019-09-02 at 10.19.35 PM.png (2092x94, 39K)

youtube.com/watch?v=fl_bUBldX4Q
Buildzoid's suggested budget builds are almost exactly the same as what I've been suggesting the past 2 months.

Read what it says instead of being a brainlet

Heat is not bad for SSDs, though some of them can throttle. Cold is what's actually bad for them.
But now days, having at least 2-3 m.2 slots is standard.

>Yup. I dont play games.

Then stick with 4k 60Hz IPS.

>The Asus TUF GAMING X570-PLUS (WI-FI) ATX AM4 Motherboard has an additional 4-pin ATX power connector but the SeaSonic FOCUS Gold 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply does not. This connector is used to supply additional 12V current to the motherboard. While the system will likely still run without it, higher current demands such as extreme overclocking or large video card current draws may require it.

I'm pretty stupid, how can I fix this issue? I can buy a platinum rated seasonic PSU that apparently doesn't have this issue, but looking at both that one and the focus golds cable accompaniments, they both come with the same kind of cables.

Which too be honest is your only choice for 4k in regards to feasible refresh rate unless you WANT to burn money (you said 500 USD) for a high refresh rate IPS monitor but if you are burning that much money on a monitor for video and photos only you are much better off just getting a pro monitor.

2600 with a 5700 is a waste, cunt. Imagine having to play on Ultra just to keep your FPS low when you could be playing on a mix of High and Ultra and getting better frames while retaining all the visual fidelity

>almost exactly the same as what I've been suggesting the past 2 months
You mostly suggested the trash that is Vega and the RX 590, cunt.

How's this?

pcpartpicker.com/list/XMFFWD

Req. on PSU?

what's your budget

1000.
of course it'll be a little more with a PSU.

if you manage to get it under, even better.

Anyone able to help my work out what this basically means? Does this mean I need to buy some special or specific power cable for my PSU? I just don't want to be dealing with having my PC assembled and frying it because I didn't ahve the right cable.

What CPU are you using and how much do you plan to overclock it?
Just plug in the 8 pin alone, it can provide up to 235W.
Unless your cpu is drawing over 200W it shouldn't be an issue.

The Higher end X570 boards like the godlike actually have 2 x 8pin connectors. who knows what kind of housefire AMD was planning on unleashing

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Very informative post, thank you guys for all the information. Just one more question regarding selling old parts.
Most of what I'm looking to sell is 4-5 years old, and I no longer have the packaging for. I take it that would go for very little on classifieds websites, right? Is ebay/kijiji the best option for selling?

>What CPU are you using and how much do you plan to overclock it?
a 3700x, and I was just planning on leaving it alone for the most part, I thought the x line of CPU's were already overclocked?

Attached: Screen Shot 2019-09-02 at 10.54.56 PM.png (646x962, 865K)

A T T E N T I O N
For anyone using an Intel CPU and Asus based motherboard, make sure you set your "Asus Multi-core Enhancement" to DISABLED, not Auto. What this does is override Intel's stock boost states. I have an i9-9900k and was getting only 4.8GHz single core boost and only 4.1GHz all core boost. In Cinebench R15 I was getting
>188 Single core score
>1650 all core score (A stock R5-2600 scores near this)
after disabling Asus Multi-core Enhancement
>211 Single core score (5.0GHz boost)
>2035 all core score (4.7GHz all core boost)

Fucking Asus has this garbage enabled by default.

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a stock 3700x is not going to need the power of the extra 4 pin. You should be fine with the 8 pin alone

Do not buy ASrock and Gigabyte boards. Quality control between the two brands is simply too poor to justify the minor price differences between an ASUS or MSI board.
Do not buy Gigabyte GPUs, the fan bearings are of low quality and will fail soon after the warranty expires and even before then if using an aggressive fan curve.
Blower style reference cards should be avoided, with very few acceptable cases such as the 5700 vanilla.
Avoid Corsair PSUs, they are simply rebrands of other OEMs from other manufacturers, with their good PSUs literally being Seasonic anyways.
Unless if you can justify hoarding massive amounts of data on the cheap, don’t buy a HDD over an SSD. If you do, avoid Seagates.
Avoid Kingston SSDs they’re notoriously prone to failure. QLCs such as Intel’s 660p should not be used a boot drive due to massive performance losses when under constant use. They are however acceptable as storage.
There are only 3 ram manufacturers, Micron, SKHynix and Samsung, everyone else just puts heat spreaders and RGB just buy whatever’s the cheapest at the speeds you’re looking for. Performance gains is most notable between 2666mhz to 3000mhz and 3000mhz to 3200mhz is minimal at best.

>pcpartpicker.com/list/XMFFWD
really good except you shouldn't use blower XT
blower is fine on the non-XT but the XT is too hot for the blower. Get custom card or get a 5700.
txm, g2, focus gold, earthwatts are some fine PSUs. Userreviews can be a decent indication.

weird.
ASUS has been having weird BIOS issues lately when they used to be so good.

kek

S2719gdf or IPS 144hz 1080p?
I have 1070 ti and will upgrade in 3 years.

Okay. I'll go ahead and order my parts. I just don't want to set my new PC on fire booting it up, so that's why I asked. Thanks user.

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>Intel’s 660p should not be used a boot drive due to massive performance losses when under constant use.

Do games and Blender+Krita count as constant use?

Deepcool Gammaxx 400 or Cooler Master masterair ma 410p? They have similar prices where I live.

>ASUS has been having weird BIOS issues lately when they used to be so good.
The board is the Z390 Maximus XI Hero so it's not like some cheap shit motherboard. Other than this stupid fucking "feature" it's stable as a rock. But I saw someone posting their cinebench so for shits and giggles I benched mine, looked at reviews, etc and noticed my scores were consistently like 30% lower than normal.

proofs??

The cooler master is better but is twice as expensive. How are you managing to get them at the same price?

>writing to the drive
Yup that's considered use. QLC based drives don't handle constant writes well at all. If you're doing anything that's more intensive than installing games and using the SSD as a read only drive, you're in for a bad time.

Stores price gouged the Gammaxx and this specific Cooler Master model apparently is not selling well.

3900X or 9900KF ?

>Cooler Master model apparently is not selling well.
the problem is that Cooler Master's various Hyper 212 Models are too efficient. Their $30 to $35 price tag coupled with how good they cool just doesn't make it worth dumping extra cash on any of Cooler Master's other products because at those price tags, you can get far superior coolers from someone else. Like
>Cooler Master Maker 8
>$115
gigantic air cooler that is centered around low air flow with proprietary fans and some gimmick that allows you to 3D print custom covers on it. Actual cooling is sub-par when compared to the Similarly sized $90 Noctua NH-D15 or same price BQ! Dark Rock Pro 4
>Cooler Master V8 GTS
Same as above but without the 3D printing gimmick.
Depends on what you're doing. Do you need or intend to make use of the extra cores/threads of the 3900X? If you're after the 9900k solely for gaming/clock speed, do yourself a favor and just get the regular 9900k, not the kf. It's like a $20 difference most places and they clock exactly the same. iGPU is always a good fallback

are cases with multiple 200mm fans popular at all anymore? I just want something that will do 2x 200mm fans that isn't covered in glass panels and the like. Prefer no window at all really.

h500

it's got a giant glass side panel. Do they not make a non RGB centered version? Not only that, but those big 200mm fans in the front are blocked by the front panel aren't they? I'm seriously about to buy a brand new CM HAF 912 for $80

>isn't covered in glass panels

>but those big 200mm fans in the front are blocked by the front panel aren't they?
No. The front panel is mesh and airflow is actually good, better at stock than the meshify c which gets recommended a lot here.

oh ok. I could have sworn I saw a model with a glass front. I assume the fan's LEDs can be turned off? I don't like LED's and lights

The glass front model is H500P which is a disaster. Avoid at all costs.
Yes the LEDs can be switched off. There is always an option to connect the LED directly to a controller off your motherboard and switch it off.

if 200mm fans are so great why do so few manufacturers use them for their cases

Is Dell S2716DG for vidya any good?
Need absolutely low lag.
Budget is $700

Yo faggots.
I want to build a Win 98 computer for nostalgia purposes and to play fallout 2. I have a ECS 741gx-m rev 1.0, which I think is a great looking mobo. I want to put it on display so I was thinking of putting in an micro ATX case that's mostly clear but then I don't know what to do with my floppy and dvd drives since they are beige and there would be no place for them. Should I just use a PCE to USB 1.1 card and an external floppy/DVD-RW drive when I need it to keep it extra clean looking?
Other specs if you're curious will be
>Concept T&M Xelo ATI 64MB AGP G-Radeon 7500 DDR 64M
>2x1GB DDR 333 RAM (is Kingston the best brand for this?)
>AMD Sempron 2200+
>Soundblaster Live!
>Some wireless network card
>Probably a PCE-USB adaptor
>?

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size. Much easier to design a case with 120/140mm fans in mind. I mean even Noctua makes 200mm fans. The entire point of 200mm fans are stupidly high air flow with almost no noise because they only spin at like 1000RPM.
I have the 23.8" 165HZ version of that monitor, G-sync and all. Even being a TN panel, viewing angle and color are fine, works great for me.

Suppressor F31

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Fuck this dumb ass decision anxiety. I can't decide between the 2070 Super and the 2080 Super.

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user I just had anxiety over buying my first PC since 2012. Just go with what feels right and is in your budget.

The new Sapphire Pulse 5700 is out of stock

nigga fuck

If you NEED raytracing get the 2080 super
If not then either get a used 1080Ti and wait for the next big jump or get a 5700 XT for 2070 level performance for less.
2000 series is a giant meme.

all the the AMD partner cards have been out of stock for the majority of time since release
why are you acting so surprised

That Mbest brand IPS monitor had the intput latency of any monitor I had seen but they no longer sell it.
Also that monitor you gave is Gsync. Nvidia GPU inherently has worse input latency than AMD GPU and you can't use AMD GPU with Gsync, so you already defeated your intent for the lowest possible lag.

You have to be sub 80 IQ to consider 2080 Super to begin with. Not that the 2070S is an amazing buy either, but it's infinitely better of a choice than the 2080S.

I wish someone made a case that supports 200mm fans that's not fuckhuge.
Could easily have an 8" wide case with 200mm fans if they simply had them clip the divider behind the board. But no, instead they're all 9.5" wide or wider because they can only copy each other's shit layouts instead of innovating.

of course it is. Everyone is buying AMD now. TSMC can't keep up.

AMD or NVIDIA?

Using a Ryzen 5 3600

I have a fuckton of money saved, so I can buy anything I want, but I'm obviously not gonna waste it all on a computer, so the really hard part is deciding on a budget. It's a constant battle in my mind between getting a better value deal with the 2070 and getting a better card.

>be the only manufacturer with a solid build of a popular price/performance card
>sell out of it because everyone wants it.
The MSI Evoke would have had a similar response if they didn't fuck up the cooling for pennies.

What's the rest of your build?

3900x, X570 Ultra, and some nice overpriced 16gb b-die ram.

the 2070S is fine. If you're considering anything more than that, the 2080Ti is the only good choice as the 2080S doesn't perform a crazy amount better than the 2070S for the money you're spending.

I disabled my Multi-core enhancment (MCE) and just used intel's performance maximizer which they released specifically for the 9600k, 9700k, and 9900k.

It puts a 16GB partition on a drive, then loads up into it's own OC test operating system, tries out various frequencies and various voltages, then decides what the best voltage/frequency is for your specific motherboard and cooling.

MCE enabled put my 9700k to 4.7GHz all core (100mhz higher than stock turbo) and 4.8Ghz single core (100mnhz lower than stock single core turbo).

With just using the intel program, I have 4.9Ghz all-core and single core.

What RAM sticks?

depends on budget. 5700 and 5700XT are really good value.
someone linked to a sale earlier of the 2070 for only $300 which is a good deal.

Anything above 5700XT is a waste of money. Price:performance drastically diminishes where every 20% more money spend only gets you a little more than a 5% performance increase.

You're best off just getting a 5700 to hold you over, even, or using the GPU you currently have if it's similar perf, and waiting for Nvidia 3000 series or the RX 5800. There might be an RX 5900 as well, as indications are that there is now a 128CU limit and not only 64CU.

Proof? Most official pro machines have nvidia gpu.

>I wish someone made a case that supports 200mm fans that's not fuckhuge.
Honestly I wish they brought back the Cooler Master HAF XM. Could do 200mm in front, 2x 200mm in top, all without sacrificing the 5.25" bays

Literally depends on your monitor and budget my dude.
The only new nvidia card worth considering right now is the 1660Ti. They memed the regular 1660 with a smaller bus and Gddr5 memory so it suffers hard in some games.

Is the Masterair ma410p equivalent to any Hyper 212 variant?

using my 65" 4k tv. it's for porn and non fps games

Guys, trying to build a NAS for home use.
Does this look good?
ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/V2b3zY
It will run XenServer and FreeNAS in a VM
SSD in Raid1 which will house the Xenserver and VMs.
The HDD will be a Raidz2 pool
Any concerns or improvement I should do to my build?
I'm trying to go low power consumption but have productivity if needed