/mkg/ - Mechanical Keyboard General

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This is how video game weapons would look like in real life huh?

That's what I do onto the keyboard.

previous thread

all what you need is some blue keycaps to complete the image
nautilus is the most common one that even Ducky sells a clone of.

Bought a Cherry MX Board 1.0 with brown switches. It was discounted and I wanted a new daily for work.

>Cherry MX Board 1.0
My condolences.
Hopefully someday you can afford to spend more money on a better keyboard like a logitech K120

>Are there any advantages over the 87u
detachable cable if you care about that
better quality casing

the caps and everything else are mostly the same, the FC980C is made directly in Japan by Topre themselves, just like the Realforce.

I just got the Redragon SHRAPNEL K589, simply to harvest the 15mm Outemu switches, and I'm impressed that you can get this for $50.
The switches feel REALLY smooth. I don't feel any metal scratching of the contacts or anything. And the 1.3mm actuation height feels perfect for me. Feels low latency, too. And they low profile keys are all uniform shape, instead of varying by row, which will be good for when I put them on a different plate.
How do I figure out whether the switches are hot swappable, or soldered? It came with a key puller, but not switch puller. I can't grab the switches with the puller. I feel like I'm going to break the switch when I try and pry it out with a knife.

Not even 3 rows? I could not handle that.

Don't think I could use a keyboard that blurry, user. I'd be worried it'd turn my hands blurry, too.

Money is no object and I need a good tenkeyless that's good for gaming and typing, I need RGB too because I'm a manbaby. What do I get? Topre?

Chording is great, man. Only two rows means much less hand movement.

As far as I know there are no Topre boards with RGB, and frankly speaking Topre isn't quite as good as they're hyped up to be.

Just get a Wooting One with Flaretech Reds and call it a day.

Get that TGR Jane, mane.

zealpc.net/products/zeal-vault

Do eet.

Topre has had RGB keyboards for almost two years now. ducky helped design them too

Oh.

lmao what a fuckin scam

Cop that shit bitch.

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>LZ
now that's a name I haven't heard in a while. If he had some KMACs I might actually cop one

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The differences in sharpness on the fonts triggers me

one of Wooting's keyboards. Bloody is the cheaper object, but since money is no object go Wooting.

Not saying chording isn't great but I don't want to do it just to use letter keys.

Reasonable opinion.

it's a mix of vintage cherry dye-sub PBT and GMK doubleshot ABS.
Dye-sub legends will bleach overtime

>$3k
For that much you could get new boards exactly like those machined yourself and have plenty of cash to spare.

>home and pause are centered
>every other key is lined to the left
this is torture

>Dye-sub legends will bleach overtime
Over time or with time and use? Cause my 27 year old dyesub caps still look pretty unbleached

pause doesn't look centered to me. I can kinda see Home, but that looks more like an alignment issue

Bleaching happens as the result of UV light eating away at the ink. Unless your fingers are emitting UV radiation you have nothing to worry about. It's also a good way to tell who the normies are.

>tfw replaced the backspace on my SSK with one from my Unicomp because the former has a scratchy stab
It has a slightly different color and the font is bolder and it is extremely irritating.

if you're a basement dweller you have nothing to worry about. You know how plastics bleach overtime when exposed to sunlight for long periods of time. That's basically it. Chyros has a video of one of his model M keycaps having some bleaching.

do macs not have a # key?

r8
I think i might move home/end/pgup/pgdn to below the space bars

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That's what I thought too. I thought Georgi would be a compromise layout for portability. But it's unironically the best layout.

they do, but it's not a dedicated key

looks similar to a redox
why have you shifted the zxcvb row though

>why have you shifted the zxcvb row though
cause I like it more that way.
redox and ergodox don't have room to have b key like that with it shifted. And I wanted the bracket keys to both be beside P, which ergodox and redox don't do.
I actually changed it a bit since that one. I think this will be final ,except I'm also going to get a prototype for having the pgdn, pgup, end, home keys be below space. I might also just do 2u space... most keyboards to salvage keys from I think just have the 1x 2.5u and 1x 3u.

Part of why I changed it, other than needing a few extra keys and making it shorter than the redox and ergodox, is because ergodox and redox keycaps are fucking expensive as shit for printed. I wanted to be able to salvage a typical full keyboard, as long as it uses equal height keys, and still have at least 90% of keys be properly labeled.
A redox seems fine, but it takes too many 1.25u keys which requires 2 or 3 keyboards to salvage keycaps from and they won't be labeled remotely close to correct because you generally have a 2u enter and 1.75-2u backspace form them etc.

Compared to the redox it's 0.5u wider, 3u shorter, and has 7 less keys (69 as opposed to 76. unintentional meme)

How I type is I use my middle finger for 2 columns, like how index finger is used for 2 columns, so my ring finger is the 1/q/a column instead of pinky instead of doing 2 columns for pinky. I don't really get how that's not normal, but it works for me.

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I just use this set kbdfans.com/products/dsa-ergo?variant=21330137776186
it's pretty good imo, I got a couple of blanks, but that's how life is

I don't really get the point of a columnar stagger if you're going to use it like that
just type properly my friend

poorfag

Novatouch If you can find it

How many keyboards have you guys been through, and which is your favorite?

About 8 it you count the ones that are just the same board with different switch types. Right now it's either the dactyl-manuform with box navies or the one with meme pandas.

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I just found about razer instant trigger """""technology""""".

What the fuck, why would you fiddle with such an indispensable part of a keyboard that is the debounce? holy shit i'm mad.

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Why not just use hardware debounce and a interrupt driven design? At that point you just need to get rid of USB polling and get with that PS/2 jawn.

5 or so? Of note and in order: Model M, ErgoDox, Gergo.

I repair keyboards for some extra bucks so i get to try many shit but mostly gaymer stuff unfortunately.

I cant remember everything exactly but i liked the TTC switches, they're so goddamn underrated. That and corsair keyboards tend to brick frecuently.

First mechanical was some cheap chinese Cherry Blue clone, likely Outemu. Then I went through three TADA68's, with Gateron Blue, Red, and then Box Royals. I really liked the Royals, but after awhile they began to click; at first it was a nice soft click, then it became louder, and then my M and N keys began sounding very loud and extremely rattly. You can relube, of course, but I just couldn't be bothered. From there I tried a Unicomp, which I liked, and then the FC980C with Topre, which I found to be pretty so-so by comparison to its reputation. Then I got an SSK and I think this is overall the most satisfied I've been with a keyboard so far. I'll probably swap out rubber mat with the thinner ones Unicomp uses nowadays, though.

Is there any significant difference between a modern Unicomp and an older IBM?

Yes, but overall they're both buckling spring keyboards, and 90% of the feel will be the same.

The biggest differences between an older IBM and a modern Unicomp come from the rubber mat and the key caps. Unicomp has a much thinner rubber mat on their internals by comparison, which leads the keyboard to have a much more crisp or sharp feel. The key caps on a Unicomp also fit a lot more loosely in the barrels, which leads them to be smoother than an older IBM, but, due to the looseness, they also shift around a lot. The former change is a good improvement to the overall feel, while the latter feels worse; when you're typing at speed, sometimes the keycap will shift a bit too much and the downstroke just feels bad. An older IBM feels a lot more consistent in that regard, but you do get a bit of plastic-on-plastic friction.

Aside from that the other differences are mostly aesthetic; the caps look a lot more sharp and aligned on an older IBM by comparison to a modern Unicomp, and the cases that Unicomp put out creak a lot by comparison, due to warping.

Had a Steelseries 6Gv2 w/ blacks that was my daily beater for ~4 years. Then I had a Race 3 w/ reds for about a year. Then I did my first DIY, a GH60 in a wood case w/ Gat browns, which I'm still using, and now I have a custom ta-65 w/ lubed Zilents that I need to get soldered.

Ironically I think my favourite has actually been the 6Gv2. Yeah, the keycaps are shitty top-print OEM, and the switches were scratchy as shit even after +4 years of use, but it's my "ol' reliable" of keyboards, and it's probably the biggest catalyst for my falling down this shit rabbithole of a hobby.

Question for those who have built dactyl manuforms before, including . How did you go about soldering in the switches without melting/damaging the PLA? Should I place some insulation around the switch to stop the heat somewhat?

>My colored weapons hihi
The NRA should be stopped

My usb keeps slipping out of my Tada68 keyboard. Its not the cord though its the port. I dont thhink the port is small enough, it must have had some wear and tear or something cause no cable will 'click' into it. I can wobble it around as it sits in the port. Anyone know any fixes for this?

>No Shadow 2 with the stock blue grips
Wasted opportunity

What keycaps are these? I tried to reverse google image search, but no luck.

Noppoo Choc Mini
Filco Majestouch 2
KBC Poker
HHKB Lite 2
HHKB Pro 2 x2
Realforce87u
Siig Minitouch
AEKII
Leopold
PD-KB02
Tofu HHKB
Duck Sidewinder
G80-11900
RAMA M60-A Seq 2 that's juuuust about done being manufactured

Read the replies m8. The alphas are vintage cherry dye subs, and the colored keycaps are GMK RGBY.

fuck, sorry im a retard kek

Just watch where your fucking iron is sitting?

Owned:
Poker
Pure
QFR
The old big fullsize CM board
Unicomp Endurapro

Own to use:
Ergodox
Ergodox Infinity
Georgi
WYSE PCE (guest board, converted to usb)
DMOTE (in construction)
GiGi (in construction)

Own but only as a collecting thing:
Some weird hall effect board from some kinda SAC shit
DEC Writer keyboard
AEKII

Georgi's my current favorite, but I'm curious how the two sculpted boards will be. Just haven't had time to wire them.

Talking to people earlier today seemed to suggest that even having the iron close (0.5-2cm) was close enough to damage it, was curious if that was the case and if anything was done by users here to prevent it.

Ducky Shine 3, only current mech and basically my experimental board. Modded with Gateron browns, SIP sockets for the LEDs, new caps, and a painted top case.
Currently waiting for KBD19X kits to come back in stock in the color/plate combo I want, so I can build one of those with Mill-Max sockets and basically keep using that forever.

If you liked the 6GV2 you have to try Leopold keyboards: both built as a tank but the keycaps are doubleshot PBT and the cherry switches are retooled on Leopold's PD series.

I use PETG, so maybe that's the difference. Still, it's on the inside of the case. Who cares?

I have two from protocases on the way. I'm so fucking hyped to do my first handwire it's not even funny. Only thing I'm half mad about is supporting the Quebecois :P

It's on the backside anyway. Just work quick and don't stab your iron into it. Worst case you torch some plastic that nobody sees.

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Hey, man, the Quebecarinos are allright

I mean they gave us poutine and their pretty much the otter exporter of Canada so yeah, fair point.

Besides, it's good to have people who are better French than the actual French in the world.

Yeah, shame the Canadiens suck :(

just be careful, on my first I got some tiny marks on the inside edge because I wasn't careful (you don't see them anyway since they're on the inside)
but that was with DIRECT contact

on my second there's no marks at all
also I have a clumsy as fuck soldering setup, so don't worry too much about it, but be careful and take your time

Ah cool, cheers for the advice. Right side is printing rn, I'm planning to hotswap it as well with the kailh sockets so I'll see how I go.

what micro controller can fit that many layers?

Anything STM32, and all the RGB and QMK feature you can hack up

Just use qwerty retard

They're mostly not actually layers. Just two layers, the base with everything but steno, and a steno layer. Everything else is done through an adaptation of DennyTom's Butterstick chording engine. So they don't take up space the same way trying to do it with qmk layers would.

Nah, I only know Colemak. Why would I take the time to learn QWERTY? I aint fucking touching anyone elses keyboard anytime ever anyway.

>Budget
doesn't matter (but no meme, retard tier, stupidly overprice because of logo or other retarded shit)
>Location (continent at least)
Europe
>Preferred switch type
idk, silent one and easy to press?
>Layout
ISO (UK (is it same thing?), 105 key, L shaped enter key)
>Form factor
full?
>Backlight
I, actually like membrane keyboards (silent and mushy!) and buying mechanical keyboards just for RGB, it's pretty!
>Previous/current keyboards
Logitech Comfort K280E
modecom volcano lanparty RGB (TKL)
Corsair STRAFE RGB (EU layout, cherry MX red)
corsair gave away to my brother, because ckb-next sucks and corsair hates linux!

inb4 someone recommends me an equivalent to corsair

only switches I tried are ones on corsair, I kinda liked it, but don't have anything else to compare to, except to that weird volcano, no idea what switches they use, but when I'm typing it feels like a workout for fingers!
I want keys to be pressed easily (and mushy! if possible)

I am looking at daskeyboard q4:
- supports linux (open source API)
- has usb hub
- qute colors
however, I have no idea what kind of switches are Cherry MX RGB brown (RGB means better colors!!!) no idea, how it feels to type on it.
I did my research a bit about switches and looks like switches I want are cherry mx blacks (no RGB variant..?)

please, help me! I want keyboard I'd fall in love with!

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Ok, but firstly send me pics of your feet.

gross (I use KDE/Plasma btw)

Get something with MX silent reds if you want light switches with a soft, quiet bottom-out.
See if you can find a place that sells Ducky boards.

Jesus christ hahahahaha imagine spending 3k on a keyboard, like what the fuck nigga, it's just a keyboard

Don't get anything without QMK, period, if you're on Linux.

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WHAT THE FUCK DO I DO IF THE RUBBER FEET UNDER MY KEYBOARD ARENT THE SAME THICKNESS ITS CAUSING ONE SIDE TO SLIDE ACROSS THE DESK ON THE PLASTIC ITS SO FUCKING BAD PLEASE HELP OH FUCK OH CHRIST OH GOD PLEASE

Just replace them all

oh man... do I HAVE to write my own keyboard firmware..? I really don't want to waste time for it, just want to "plug n play" my keyboard.
any recommendations? I'd prefer to buy keyboard from my local store (have pretty good one for computer parts and peripherals). It feels tedious to go over hundreds of keyboards from unknown vendors to find specific switches... what if keyboard itself has shit build quality?
ducky keyboards looks nice! but do they have non ANSI ones? I hate backslash between backspace and enter
do they ship worldwide? I could just wait till it arrives...

I was looking at Asus ROG Claymore too, it has cherry browns and detachable keypad (very comfy!)
I am considering to get TKL and detachable keypad as an option tho.
Actually, I'd prefer TKL keyboard, small form factor is comfy, but on rare occasions I find keypad useful.

why FN is a thing on desktop keyboards? like, what the fuck

Depends on the keyboard.
On shorter keyboards they may work like on similar laptop keyboards (basically as an implementation of the numpad).
On full 104-key keyboards they can do things such as changing the rollover or character repeat speed, usually through Fn+Function Key combination.

OCUK sells ISO-UK Ducky keyboards.

WITH FUCKING WHAT ITS SOME CHINESE KB WHERE AM I GONNA FIND FEET TO FIT THIS SHIT
I CAN CUT IT MYSELF BUT IDK WHAT KINDA RUBBER THEY USE

I'm not from UK, btw, used UK layout, because I saw it's layout I prefer and, guess, felt like it will be better recognized, whatever... I'm not from UK
I can get a keyboard from there tho. On the other hand, ignore my local store thing, I can get it from amazon.co.uk or ebay.co.uk or whatever they sell in UK. But I'm not from UK, btw
does OCUK has nice RGBs?

>oh man... do I HAVE to write my own keyboard firmware..? I really don't want to waste time for it, just want to "plug n play" my keyboard.
You don't have to write anything for QMK. There's an online configurator, and something will come preloaded on already built boards.

>oh man... do I HAVE to write my own keyboard firmware..? I really don't want to waste time for it, just want to "plug n play" my keyboard.
No, just use QMK. It IS a firmware. You can write your own layout if you want, but I have never heard of a board that didn't come with a default layout.

lol
get some pads from amazon